Dappers TQM Downunder Project

[down_n_dapper]

Hey all!

As you know, been around since 2012 with a boring V6 fronttrak which I made pretty, low and loud but quickly got bored of and it ended up facing some unknown issues with detonation which neither myself or a german specialist could diagnose quickly. Fast forward 3 months and I found another project!

Found a decent looking car in another state, 1100 miles away and it all checked out over the phone so a deposit was made and the next weekend my father and I went for a drive. A long 2200 mile round trip later and we had successfully secured the car!

2000 A4 B5 1.8TQM with 68,000 miles on the clock, few cosmetic bumps and a busted clutch but it was a steal for $1080 US! Its been sitting in someones backyard for 8 years dormant, time to wake her up.










Pretty clean internals!!

Having done a manual conversion last year, I tore straight into the new car, pulling the trans in around 4 hours, having a hoist definitely helps Heres a few pics of the trans, the stock flywheel and pressure plate remnants and the rear main seal, all to be replaced!









So I ordered alot from fcp euro, namely a valeo SMF clutch kit, timing kit, water pump, coolant flange, exhaust gaskets, VCG and sump gaskets! Sadly FCP forgot to send the tensioner as part of the TB kit so timing and driving will have to wait till im certain of the age of everything important!

Man that sump gasket was a bitch. Had to almost completely drop the subframe and raise the motor completely but it's done and no more leaks! Also had to replace both outer cv boots and tie rods which was an effort being my first but they went back in fine. Got everything bolted up and had to bleed the slave cylinder but overall the service was a success! Heres the car driving as of about 2 hours ago.



Future plans are to first replace the timing components as while they dont look old or close to failure, I don't want to become another timing belt casualty! Then the car needs an ID check to be registered, and after which I'll be contacting K0mpressed for a tune followed by a 2.5 exhaust, test pipe and magnaflow res only. Stay tuned!

[PringlesInVic]

Beauty Find! Looks great.

Sub'd.

Enjoyed your last build and I have a feeling this is going to be a good one too.

[LA4]

Those seats look to be in amazing condition.

[zandrew]

Looks like the clutch is officially dead. How could the timing bits not be old considering how long it has been since it has been drove? I would not take a chance and jump on it asap.

I wonder if your car is already Tuned? That clutch looks abused but on a stock tune I would think that type of date raped clutch would be hard to accomplish.


Cool car, best of luck with her... hard to decide which is a cooler color, black (the many different shades) or silver.

[down_n_dapper]

Beauty Find! Looks great.
Sub'd.
Enjoyed your last build and I have a feeling this is going to be a good one too.

Much appreciated mate! Forgot to mention its going to ride on some freshly painted 17" avus wheels too, got the painter to add more fleck so they look mint!

Those seats look to be in amazing condition.

The whole interior is mint, barely any marks on it at all. Only thing I don't love is how everything is grey and the sunroof doesn't seem to be a standard audi one..

Looks like the clutch is officially dead. How could the timing bits not be old considering how long it has been since it has been drove? I would not take a chance and jump on it asap.

I wonder if your car is already Tuned? That clutch looks abused but on a stock tune I would think that type of date raped clutch would be hard to accomplish.

Cool car, best of luck with her... hard to decide which is a cooler color, black (the many different shades) or silver.

I understand the rule is replace every 60k or 8 years ish (rough approximation) as rubber ages, but I haven't seen any wear/cracks along it so I've been able to start it fairly safely, but before driving it anymore I will be replacing the T-belt I promise!

The motor in this wasn't offered in the states, its running an AJL which runs 180bhp over the AEB's 150, apart from that I don't think its tuned. The car came from an extremly densely packed city where you stop start every minute of your drive at least, I believe the PO cooked it badly

[Nollywood]

Nice find, Dapper.

Looks nice and fresh for a V8 swap.

What do you all think, guys?

[walky_talky20]

Nice pickup, Mr. Dapper. Audi's do get pretty cheap when they don't move!

I'm jealous of you guys and your nifty facelift Euro exterior parts.

[Nollywood]

I probably missed it, but what happened to your 2.4 V6?

[kwnk]

Nice find! the car looks great

[down_n_dapper]

Nice find, Dapper.

Looks nice and fresh for a V8 swap.

What do you all think, guys?
I probably missed it, but what happened to your 2.4 V6?

Thanks Nolly! hahaha I'll see how fun the 1.8T is for a while first ;) The 2.4 has an undiagnosable (to me and a euro specialist) detonation, tried swapping injectors, sparkplugs, cleaning the cylinders with a seafoam like product and all sorts to no avail. It still runs but detonates on hard acceleration. Registration runs out in a week so it'll get driven no more!

Nice pickup, Mr. Dapper. Audi's do get pretty cheap when they don't move!

I'm jealous of you guys and your nifty facelift Euro exterior parts.

Cheers walky! only way I can afford them is when they're broken lol. Always welcome to come down under and get some euro goodness!

Nice find! the car looks great

Cheers man :)


Update on the car as of today:

The timing belt job went well on sunday considering it was my first and the thought of wrecking a perfect motor never left my mind lol. Had my old man helping/giving me confidence which even at 22 is welcome support, he was pretty handy at handing me tools

I ordered a new water pump with housing from fcp, but upon working out how much work it was going to be to get the housing off, We tried just replacing the pump with the new pump.. and it didn't fit the old housing lol. So another hour later and we had replaced the water pump and housing and had it all buttoned back up. Sadly the hose coming from the water pump was too swollen to be reused and I lose half the new coolant I bought on the floor after starting it.. $29 for the tiny 058121063 hose overnighted from interstate by audi and I had it all replaced tonight and no more leaks!



The clutch pedal feels so light, as in it feels like theres a little person helping me push compared to the V6's clutch, something to get used to I suppose!

It drives well and now the patient wait to drive those first 500km or so on the new clutch till I can romp on it! Got an unregistered vehicle permit to take it to our registration centre to get the engine numbers checked so it can be registered in the state, so all things going well it'll be registered and in daily mode tomorrow!

[walky_talky20]

Please explain this "engine numbers check". Is that a tailpipe sniff?

The "unregistered permit" piece is different. Here (in Pennsylvania, USA) you can register pretty much anything that you own for a nickel (well, like $35). Then you get a 10 day grace period to go get safety and emissions inspection. And for those 10 days...you're free. ;)

[FCPEuro]

Hey down_n_dapper, sorry if there was an confusion here on your order, the kit you ordered was never meant to include a hydraulic tensioner. Should have just been the belt, tensioner, and roller as pictured and received.



Looks like you sent an email over to Tiffanie here and she got you out an OEM hydraulic tensioner (058109479B) you were looking for free of charge, glad it has arrived and you got the job completed. We offer the 1.8T kits to vary in how comprehensive you are looking to do the job, sometimes people will skip the hydraulic tensioner replacement as well as the camshaft/crankshaft seals so we offer several options depending on how far you wanted to go. Either way though, glad you got this buttoned up. And if there is anything else you may need feel free to let me know.

[walky_talky20]

Wow. Very impressed with how FCP handled that.

I've been buying a lot more stuff from FCP lately, as our local import parts supplier (Lake County Parts Warehouse) just got bought out by Car Parts Warehouse...who suck. Big time. Especially for German parts. I love that FCP carries a great selection of Volvo stuff, too. Something ECS hasn't bothered to do. What I need is always in stock at great prices. And you can't beat their warranty. Go FCP.

[down_n_dapper]

Please explain this "engine numbers check". Is that a tailpipe sniff?

The "unregistered permit" piece is different. Here (in Pennsylvania, USA) you can register pretty much anything that you own for a nickel (well, like $35). Then you get a 10 day grace period to go get safety and emissions inspection. And for those 10 days...you're free. ;)

They just check the Vin of the chasis and compliance plate match up and see if its been registered as stolen, quick 20 minutes under the bonet, luckily they didn't notice the airbag fault light.. it was $50 for a 7:00am to 11PM permit here lol, ripoff!

Hey down_n_dapper, sorry if there was an confusion here on your order, the kit you ordered was never meant to include a hydraulic tensioner. Should have just been the belt, tensioner, and roller as pictured and received.



Looks like you sent an email over to Tiffanie here and she got you out an OEM hydraulic tensioner (058109479B) you were looking for free of charge, glad it has arrived and you got the job completed. We offer the 1.8T kits to vary in how comprehensive you are looking to do the job, sometimes people will skip the hydraulic tensioner replacement as well as the camshaft/crankshaft seals so we offer several options depending on how far you wanted to go. Either way though, glad you got this buttoned up. And if there is anything else you may need feel free to let me know.

Hi thanks for stopping by! Cool to see FCP check others forum posts too :)

The part I ordered was the following:


I can't find this part on your site anymore, but in the image it includes the belt, roller and hydraulic tensioner so thats what I assumed it came with! I confirmed this by looking the part number up on ECS I found the kit with everything I thought it included:


So I am a bit confused about the whole thing, but I genuinely appreciate how FCP handled it, if I was wrong or right, the part was sent within days and I truly appreciate the service.

[Fasterd]

so jealous on the find dude. how bout we trade my silver left drive for your right hand, its the right thing to do :)

[down_n_dapper]

so jealous on the find dude. how bout we trade my silver left drive for your right hand, its the right thing to do :)

Thanks mate! Could never drive a lefty car lol I'll have to let you keep it ;)


Having some issues so far, my coolant temp seems to take a long ass time to get to 90, like 35 minutes in 60F weather where as the V6 would be at temp around 15 minutes in. The oil temp seems to barely work as well, it creeps upto maybe a 1/4 but thats as far as it seems to go..

I'm considering sensors but not adverse to a thermostat as i didnt replace this when I did the major service, lucky its easy enough to get to again! thoughts?

Also there is a wire coming from a main harness and I have no clue where it goes or what it was connected to. Its a three pin





and heres where it is!


Help!

[xdewaynex]

That plug looks like the one that connects to the lower radiator hose.

[walky_talky20]

On that car, the connector will be on the radiator itself, very near the lower radiator hose outlet. It is the "dual thermal fan switch" connector. Your electric cooling fan will not operate with it unplugged.

[down_n_dapper]

On that car, the connector will be on the radiator itself, very near the lower radiator hose outlet. It is the "dual thermal fan switch" connector. Your electric cooling fan will not operate with it unplugged.

I'll have another look! Any comment on my oil/coolant temp situation?


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[dalazybastard]

I'm willing to bet the thermostat is the issue.

When mine started to go, in city driving car was just below operating temps and as soon as I got on the highway all my temps dropped significantly.

I thought it would be absurd for both oil and coolant sensors to be bad and changed the thermostat.

Thermostat was relatively easy(sub 1 hr). Just don't drop the housing bolts behind the alternator bracket.


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[down_n_dapper]

I'm willing to bet the thermostat is the issue.

When mine started to go, in city driving car was just below operating temps and as soon as I got on the highway all my temps dropped significantly.

I thought it would be absurd for both oil and coolant sensors to be bad and changed the thermostat.

Thermostat was relatively easy(sub 1 hr). Just don't drop the housing bolts behind the alternator bracket.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks for dropping by dude!

I was thinking the same.. for both sensors to be faulty, thats just bad luck lol.

But i noticed if i leave the car to warm up without driving, the coolant gets to half way and the oil barely anywhere, as soon as i start driving like yourself, the coolant temp drops really quickly!

So to me this must be the thermostat stuck open. They're only $15 at the local parts store so I'll replace tomorrow and see how I go, till then i'll baby the car

[redline380]

I'm going out on a limb and guessing you put the thermostat o ring on the wrong side. I cant remember which side it goes on with an 058 block off the top of my head, but I am thinking you put the tstat in, then the oring, then the housing and bolt it down.

[down_n_dapper]

I'm going out on a limb and guessing you put the thermostat o ring on the wrong side. I cant remember which side it goes on with an 058 block off the top of my head, but I am thinking you put the tstat in, then the oring, then the housing and bolt it down.

How it was installed!

So I found my local parts store actually had a T-stat that would fit for $15, so I fitted that yesterday and oh boy what a difference! We boiled the old one and cooled it down and it seemed to work okay but it was opening a little earlier than it should have to me. So now the coolant gets to operating coolant temp as of this morning in 62 degree weather in around 15 minutes which sounds right however the oil took the 45 minute commute to work to get to around 185 of its 250 degree goal. I'm still not adverse to the oil temp sensor being faulty, as I'm sure the oil would be getting hot after a 45 minute drive.. I leave that to you guys for your opinions!


Also being used to all my fancy audio gear I had in the last B5 and wanting to better my last setup, I decided to start investing money into the interior. I sold the boot of one of my wrecks for $160, so had some cash to play with! Decided on the Kenwood KDC-BT610U which had the most features and 3 preouts for $220 AUD.

Found it on special for $170, and went to a place to price match it with some wiring stuff and got last years model (exactly the same unit) for $75, score. Throw in the wiring kit for $30 less than the sticker and a couple of ISO adapters and I had the heart of my audio setup for $170 less than I planned to spend!

I'm still deciding on speakers between hertz, Rockford fosgate punches or JL audio stuff I used to run but I want to run all speakers amped and all will be components. I've done my time with coaxials and it's time to take this bitch next level. The JL 12" sub and 600W monoblock will be coming from my other B5, however the speakers and amp to run them will change. I'm looking at doing 6.5" rear shelf and 5.25" doors, possibly 6.5" if I can find a way to fit them. Decisions decisions! Budget is around 160 USD for fronts and the same for backs

Rockford Fosgate P165-SI for the rear


Hertz DSK 165.3


JL Audio C2-650

[dalazybastard]

Glad to hear that half the problem is fixed!

If you have vagcom, I'm pretty sure you can see sensor value and dash value for the temps. Someone more knowledgeable may be able to chime in on the specifics of this.


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[Turbo_B5]

sound

I just redid my whole sound system (rear speakers later) with hertz stuff and I like it. linked is the post. Will be finishing off the rest with more hertz speakers. I went with a kenwood kmm-bt315u and ended up returning cause i didnt like it. Went with another JVC deck like my first out of the 97

http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...1#post12427519

sending you a FB message....

[xdewaynex]

Im running the JL C2-525 in my front doors, very pleased with them. Planning on buying the C2 models for the rear doors as well.

[down_n_dapper]

I just redid my whole sound system (rear speakers later) with hertz stuff and I like it. linked is the post. Will be finishing off the rest with more hertz speakers. I went with a kenwood kmm-bt315u and ended up returning cause i didnt like it. Went with another JVC deck like my first out of the 97

http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...1#post12427519

sending you a FB message....

Yeah I dont like the kenwood that much but the options arent as good as they used to be.. dying modification sadly.

Sussed your install and like what you did, helped me know where to run wires, cheers!

After installing the amp wiring and soldering on connectors for the rear speakers I got it all working! Was good to run the wiring better than my first car, with the 12V going down the drivers side and RCA's down the passengers. After playing music for 5 minutes while driving the headunit showed its turn off sequence and won't turn back on.. Not sure whats going on there but after uni i'll go have a look.
(FIXED: stupid ISO harness had the constant and switched 12v the wrong way around, swapped and replaced fuse and working now)

The fuel gauge also appears to have stopped working as it just shows empty.. WTF. Might be unrelated to the install but it was working pretty well before.. Not sure what went wrong

[walky_talky20]

The oil won't (and shouldn't) get to 250F unless you are, like, towing a house through the desert or something. It should probably get to around 200F, plus or minus, during normal driving. And it will take probably double or triple the amount of time the coolant takes to warm up. The factory sensors and gauge for the oil temp aren't super accurate. So you basically just learn where your car likes to ride, and then you are able to notice when things are acting strangely.

[down_n_dapper]

so jealous on the find dude. how bout we trade my silver left drive for your right hand, its the right thing to do :)

The oil won't (and shouldn't) get to 250F unless you are, like, towing a house through the desert or something. It should probably get to around 200F, plus or minus, during normal driving. And it will take probably double or triple the amount of time the coolant takes to warm up. The factory sensors and gauge for the oil temp aren't super accurate. So you basically just learn where your car likes to ride, and then you are able to notice when things are acting strangely.

I am used to my V6 which got both coolant and oil to the middle mark (120 degrees c and 90 degrees c) exactly every time I drove it. So I assumed the oil temp on the 1.8T would get to half way as thats where its meant to sit but maybe not! It gets to around 90 degrees c which is coolant temp, or 200F for you americans. It only gets to that temp after a good 40 minutes of driving in this cold weather so am I to assume this is behaving properly then walky?

Also, filled up the gas tank and the fuel gauge miraculously started working again lol.

On the hunt for adapter brackets for the rear parcel shelf for 6.5" speakers!

[down_n_dapper]

Made progress with my audio install, everything is done bar front speakers. Installed my old JL audio 6" coaxials in the rear and i'm going to keep them, no sense having a component setup in the rear if I sit in the front! To this end I'm looking into fiititng 6" in the front doors, might use one of my wrecks as a test dummy. Whatever I put in the front they'll be quality, considering JL C2's or C3's

Le amp setup, much nicer mounted to the deck

[PringlesInVic]

Good Job. Looks very familiar.

I chose the the u/s of the parcel shelf because I use my trunk all the time. Stroller, softball gear, you name it.

I rotated the amps so the controls were accessible at the front for tuning. And then used the holes in the metal to run all the wiring. I'll be redoing it a bit shortly as I'm tired of the rest of my gear sitting on the shelf.






I've always been an audio gear head. My stereo is always on, so I want it to sound the best it can. I think you'll notice better response from the sub if you turn it around to face the trunk.

[Turbo_B5]

Good Job. Looks very familiar.

I chose the the u/s of the parcel shelf because I use my trunk all the time. Stroller, softball gear, you name it.

I rotated the amps so the controls were accessible at the front for tuning. And then used the holes in the metal to run all the wiring. I'll be redoing it a bit shortly as I'm tired of the rest of my gear sitting on the shelf.






I've always been an audio gear head. My stereo is always on, so I want it to sound the best it can. I think you'll notice better response from the sub if you turn it around to face the trunk.

what model amps and subs/speakers you running. we look to have the same amps.

[PringlesInVic]

what model amps and subs/speakers you running. we look to have the same amps.

Rear Parcel Shelf - 6 1/2" Hertz Hi-Energy HCX165 (100W @4ohm RMS each) Powered by Hertz 2-Channel HCP2X (120Wx2 @4ohm RMS)
Sub - 10" Hi-Energy 4ohm SVC (450W RMS @ 4ohm) powered by Hertz HCP1D (380Wx1 @4ohm) in Bassworx box tuned to 38Hz.

On the shelf waiting to be installed...

Front Doors - Hertz 5 1/4" Dieci DSK130.3 Components (60W @4ohm RMS each)
Rear Doors - Hertz 5 1/4" Dieci DCX 130.3 Coaxial (40W @ 4ohms RMS each)
Doors will be powered by Hertz HCP4 4-Channel (65W @4oh RMS per channel)
Sub will be powered by Hertz HCP1DK Mono (740W @4ohm RMS)


There always seems to be something else to do on the car and I can't seem to find a whole day to do the work. I'll get around to it. But for now, the 2 speakers + sub I have installed fills the car nicely.

[Turbo_B5]

Rear Parcel Shelf - 6 1/2" Hertz Hi-Energy HCX165 (100W @4ohm RMS each) Powered by Hertz 2-Channel HCP2X (120Wx2 @4ohm RMS)
Sub - 10" Hi-Energy 4ohm SVC (450W RMS @ 4ohm) powered by Hertz HCP1D (380Wx1 @4ohm) in Bassworx box tuned to 38Hz.

On the shelf waiting to be installed...

Front Doors - Hertz 5 1/4" Dieci DSK130.3 Components (60W @4ohm RMS each)
Rear Doors - Hertz 5 1/4" Dieci DCX 130.3 Coaxial (40W @ 4ohms RMS each)
Doors will be powered by Hertz HCP4 4-Channel (65W @4oh RMS per channel)
Sub will be powered by Hertz HCP1DK Mono (740W @4ohm RMS)


There always seems to be something else to do on the car and I can't seem to find a whole day to do the work. I'll get around to it. But for now, the 2 speakers + sub I have installed fills the car nicely.

we have pretty much the same setup, lol.

[down_n_dapper]

Good Job. Looks very familiar.

I chose the the u/s of the parcel shelf because I use my trunk all the time. Stroller, softball gear, you name it.

I rotated the amps so the controls were accessible at the front for tuning. And then used the holes in the metal to run all the wiring. I'll be redoing it a bit shortly as I'm tired of the rest of my gear sitting on the shelf.

I've always been an audio gear head. My stereo is always on, so I want it to sound the best it can. I think you'll notice better response from the sub if you turn it around to face the trunk.

Nice! Looks pretty similar, my last B5 I had the amps mounted either size of the sub and it took up the whole boot, this is much better! Plus i love cable management and running them through all those holes in the shelf was satisfying

My controls are all on the top face of the amp so orientation didn't matter! I'm with you, driving an hour each way to work everyday, I live in the car and need music to relax, so might as well be like a concert in the car

I'll try turning the sub around! Have always had it hard against the rear seat but I'm open to improvement

[Bordom]

Well well. Look who got a new one! Good luck with the whip mate!

Sent from my SM-G935W8 using Tapatalk

[down_n_dapper]

Well well. Look who got a new one! Good luck with the whip mate!

Thanks mate!!

new development! While driving home from work (50 minutes) I was beating on it a fair bit but the last 20 minutes was quite sedate. Never got hot, coolant dead on 90 the whole time. Went to drive up the hills to my house and when giving it WOT it seemed to missfire/detonate which is a sound I hate so i backed off. Pulled over and popped the hood and the turbo was glowing red, like hot hot. Scanned the ECU and there were 0 codes. The PO mentioned something about the CAT being clogged (not sure how he thought it was) but I'm not sure thats my issue as the car is still boosting and driving okay. Ordered a testpipe anyway, as well as a new fuel filter as I'm sure its the OEM one still, and I read a thread having similar issues where the filter was blocked and leaning out the turbo making it glow.

any thoughts on this random issue?

Got the car home and let it rest, it reved up fine and the turbo was no longer so hot after cooling off for 5 minutes of no boost driving

[down_n_dapper]

Happened again tonight up the same hill, pretty violent backfire noises were heard when trying to boost it again..

[Turbo_B5]

neat

[down_n_dapper]

neat

ffs king help