Cyber's 2001 S4 Build

[Cybersombosis]

Hey everyone. Thought I'd share my build on a 2001 S4 manual I picked up in the summer of 2024. I wasn't really looking for this as I was happy with my 2001 1.8T that I had since 2009, and since I didn't bother with a build thread with that car, I thought I'd start one for the S4.

This car came from a lady who's husband bought it for her and had maintained it until he passed away 2 years ago. It had sat for the 2 years in a garage with the typical leaking gaskets and dead battery. The brakes had seized and the rear passenger wheel bearing was done. It had come from the salt belt of Canada so had some rust, but the car was unmolested and completely stock and came with a book of receipts so it was really hard to pass up. She really wanted it to go to someone who would take care of her and treat her right so I bit the bullet. Drove it back to my place after a 3 hour run with the noisy hum of a bad bearing and smell of smoking brakes. This is how she sat at the time of purchase.

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First things first was to take care of the noisy wheel bearing. I found that the ABS tone ring was cracked. The ABS was engaging oddly when I first got it so this was a great find to help fix that issue. I bought a new axle from Rock Auto for dirt cheap and used the CV joint off of it and put it on the OEM shaft. Unfortunately when I went to remove the new joint, it would not come off so I cut it flush so I could use the cup with the new tone ring.

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Next were the seized rear brakes so I bought a set of calipers from Rock Auto and powder coated them. Yay the e-brake is working again!!!

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Then I found out that the front brakes were seized too. Luckily we were parting out an Allroad so I grabbed the calipers off of it and sandblasted and power coated them too.

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The mirrors were baked so I went to the parts shed and changed out the passenger side and rear view mirror. LCD center display was shot so I soldered in a new one. Oil leaks were fixed by changing out the 6 gaskets.

At this point I asked a fellow member on here, Blazius to make me a Stage 1 tune to enjoy each stage of the process. He added launch control and coded out the rear O2 sensors.

More to come.

[Bordom]

Clean car! Was it originally from Ontario before it got brought over to British Columbia?

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[Cybersombosis]

The records show a sale in Calgary in 2005 from an Audi dealership, most likely a lease return or trade in, and was in Calgary until 2014 when it made its way to BC and Vancouver Island.

[Bordom]

Oh alright then. Western Canada doesn't use as much corrosive means to fight snow and ice out there. Usually it's just sand for traction.

There should be minimal rust underneath.

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[Cybersombosis]

Drilled and slotted rotors were ordered which came with ceramic brake pads. Low dust and noise were the main factor in choosing the ceramics.

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Next I ordered in some Solowerks S1 coilovers. Having had lowering springs on my A4, and for the price of $499USD, I couldn't resist.

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How she sits now.

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I ordered in the SSAC Twin II exhaust but the 3" downpipes were on back order so I installed the rear section of the exhaust and I must say that I am super happy with the fitment.

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With the Stage 1 tune now loaded, the plan all along was to go Stage III. I am super happy with the low end torque of my Frankenturbo F4H, so originally I was going to go FT, but I find that the top end just isn't there and didn't want the same results with the S4 so I went with the SRM K24 RS6 turbos.

Build list on stock block
SRM K24 RS6 Turbos
SSAC Twin II 3" Catless Downpipe Exhaust
TTV S4 Flywheel
Stage 4 Ringer Racing Clutch Kit
1000CC injectors
USRT 8 Nozzle Water Meth Manifold; 2 Post Inter Cooler Nozzles and 6 Intake Manifold Nozzles
Snow Performance Stage 3 Water Meth Controller
2.8 Cams
Walbro 525LPH Fuel Pump
Blazius Stage 3 tune with Water Meth Injection
Cluster Mods Multi Function Display
eBay Silicone Hose Kit
eBay Short Shifter Kit
Evolution Import Thor Skidplate
Solowerks S1 Coilovers

Luckily we had an Allroad parts car that had the timing belt snap with 138km on the engine so we pulled that out so I could build it on the side as parts started to show up. Heads were rebuilt with 2.8 cams and bent valves replaced with new valve stems seals and all valves were lapped.

There are differences from the Allroad APB engine I had and the S4 APB engine in the car;
- The S4 did not have SAI while the Allroad did. Block off plate for the passenger side, you can buy on AliExpress for $5. The driver's side, not so much. 034 and other companies had some for around $80 so I decided to make my own by cutting the flange off the SAI tube leading to the head and cutting a metal plate to cover the hole. I used the OEM gasket to seal it.
- Intake manifold on the S4 is the early style while the new style was on the Allroad. I used the old style as all the piping matched up to the back of the intake manifold on the S4.
- Timing belt covers are different along with the post intercooler piping. The stays that are attached to the timing covers are in different positions. The recesses for the cam bolts on the piping are in different positions. Unfortunately the owner of the Allroad broke the covers and I had used the Allroad's post intercooler piping for my water meth nozzle mock up and found out they did not fit, so I had to re-drill the nozzle ports and tap the second set of pipes. The main reason I wanted to used the Allroad's pipes was the S4's were rusty and the bushing holders had split because of it.

I wanted to keep the car looking as stock as possible so I can try and get collector plates once it turns 25 so I added a Hands Free Blue Tooth adapter through the CD Changer port. Simple enough to stream Spotify from my iPhone. The only thing that will not be stock looking is the center LCD display. I had a customer come in with a Stage III K04 S4 and his center LCD display was in color. I was like, what is that??? He introduced me to the upgrade and Cluster Mods. I really liked the idea of having no boost gauge in a pod or in the center vent and displaying it in the center LCD display. It makes the car feel more modern. I has lots of different function from checking and clearing codes to displaying any of the measuring blocks in the ECU, live. Super happy with it once I hooked up the boost reference line to the ECU and help from the developer to get it all working.

There is a boot up Audi logo animation
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And an S4 logo that I made got added
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MFD boost gauge. Unfortunately it doesn't show vacuum :(
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Parts are starting to show up!

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[Cybersombosis]

For some reason, the Canadian S4 didn't come with fog lights which really annoyed me. Trying to find new old stock is either way to expensive or just not available. I wanted to find an alternative so I ended up finding a thin set of LED lamps that would fit behind the OEM grills. You don't see them when they are off and the grill is complete and unmolested which is what I was going for. I didn't want to hack up my grills. I mounted the lights to the grills themselves so I could aim them and lock them down and not have to make mounting brackets. I had a spare fog light switch from a part out to keep it all OEM. I was going to use the OEM wiring from the kick panel to the bumper but I think they are wired to the relay housing behind the glove box so I decided to bypass it and wire them directly from the switch. In order to utilize the pulse design of the switch, I tried to use a latching relay a customer gave me but it was dead out of the box so Amazon it was. That one didn't latch properly so I did it old school using a diagram from 12volt.com using 5 relays. It isn't pretty but it works.

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Hard to get a shot of them on as the headlights are always on in Canada as they are DRL's. I put LED's in the headlights as the halogens were horrible. From what I can tell, the 2001 never came with HID's in Canada. This car had the Navigation option so it's not like they cheaped out here.
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Next on my list were the ragged OZ Superleggeras. Someone spray painted over them so I sandblasted and powercoated them. A home oven I picked up just fits 18's after some modifications to the door.

Raw
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Blasted
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Powdered with Porsche Silver then a hot coat of clear
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[DonnieDark0]

congrats on picking this up. I look forward to keeping tabs on your build thread!

[LJS]

A new build thread- NICE
GL with your build...look'n forward to following your progress
PS- If within your budget the JHM shifter kit is a much better option to the eBay short shifter-
https://jhmotorsports.com/products/s...rly-style.html
PSS-
You may want to add engine and tranny mount upgrades to you list---The STERN's work well
https://etspec.com/products/audi-s4-...ckage?q=mounts
ALSO
I have the same exhaust and use the XSPower 3" to 2-1/2 down tubes----A close friend used the 3" downtubes. Mine fit MUCH better than his and retains the flex mount near the V-band.

[LJS]

For reference

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[Cybersombosis]

Thanks everyone for the good lucks and the well wishes. The short shifter kit I bought is already in the car and I'm super happy with it. It is much notchier than my A4 kit of the same source. Maybe due to the push down mechanism??? Another customer of ours has a BT B6 A4 and I installed the JHM shifter when we swapped in a B6 S4 trans and drivetrain. I'd say that mine is not as notchy as his, but definitely more notchy than my A4. Closer to his B6 I'd say than the my A4. I kinda like it this way to be honest. As far as the exhaust goes, hopefully it cooperates when it's time to put the motor back in. Fingers crossed.

Engine is plucked from the Allroad and the heads are off. The Allroad engine was from a customer's car who was attempting a starter removal on his own and accidentally broke his timing cover and a piece of it fell down into the crank area. He couldn't get the starter out so he put it back together to have us do a re and re but when he went to move it, bing bang bong, the timing belt skipped and bent all of the lowest valves on every cylinder.

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The block cleaned up.

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Heads back on and the turbos mounted

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More parts are starting to show up. Water/Meth distribution manifold is here along with all the nozzles fittings. There isn't a place to mount it anywhere near the engine so I'm going to have to mount it under the rain tray underneath the cabin air filter beside the battery. I'll run lines through the false firewall.

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There isn't any room to mount the individual runner nozzles on top as it's just too busy up there so I had a Eureka moment and found that I could mount the nozzles from underneath. Decided to blast and powercoat the manifold with a wrinkle finish. To stop siphoning, I've installed check valves on each nozzle.

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[travis_w]

How many cc's are each nozzle, and won't the vacuum pull open the check valves.

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[Cybersombosis]

The 6 nozzles in the intake manifold are 45cc/min and the 2 post intercooler nozzles are 170cc/min rated at 60psi. I have the pump set for 170psi and am getting around 1000cc/min actual which is a lot IMO. For reference, the setup I have in my A4 is a 60cc/min nozzle at the throttle body and 170cc/min post intercooler and am getting around 400cc/min actual at 170psi. The guys at USRT say that the setup I have for the S4 is “practical for my intended use and HP goals” so I guess I have to go with it and see if I get quenching. I can’t turn the pump down anymore so the 1000cc/min will be the max and should be less with less boost as the controller is a progressive unit.

As far as the check valves are concerned, it is just to stop siphoning of the fluid that is in the lines between the manifold and the nozzles. So any vacuum created will be limited to that as the solenoid at the manifold is closed at boost levels lower than what I set it to in the controller. In this case at idle it is negative so closed. Other than the check valves, there’s not much more I would want to do short of installing solenoids at each nozzle which is not cost or space effective. I guess I could take a check valve and hook it up to my vacuum pump and see what I get but at this point there’s not much more I can do regardless of the results.

[Silverex]

Now would be a good time to replace the IAT sub harness….
Shameless plug: i sell them which are made with Tefzel wire, DR-25 sheathing, booted on both ends with new OE connectors. Dm if interested.

[Tec_Nine]

Awesome build, where did you get the color MFI done? I've always wanted one.

[Cybersombosis]

I got mine from Cluster Mods. He can upload the color of your car for door open and a custom splash screen when you turn the ignition on.

https://clustermodzco.wixsite.com/clustermodz/test

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[CELison]

That’s the only safe way to run water/meth. Nice job.

[Cybersombosis]

Now would be a good time to replace the IAT sub harness….
Shameless plug: i sell them which are made with Tefzel wire, DR-25 sheathing, booted on both ends with new OE connectors. Dm if interested.

Luckily I have two engines to work with so I took the best looking one of the two. The plastic sheathing and wiring was still supple thank goodness!

That’s the only safe way to run water/meth. Nice job.

Ya I tried to get away with just a throttle plate for 1 nozzle and the vendor was having none of it. He said the amount of methanol would not be the same across all runners. Some would have more at low pressure and those same runners would have less at full pressure so I had to bite the bullet to do it right for octane boost. All the builds I’ve seen only have the post intercooler nozzles but I really wanted the octane boost of the meth at the intake like I have on the A4 so this was one of the options and I just went for it.

For this build I didn’t worry about the cost of things and just ordered what I wanted and thought was best after reading many of all your guy’s build threads so hopefully it all works out.

[travis_w]

What did that runner setup cost?

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[Cybersombosis]

Here is the breakdown

1 x Check Valve (female in/male out) (WAIFMCHECK) = $30.00
1 x Water/Meth Nozzles (WAINOZZLE) = $29.00 Nozzle size 175cc
1 x Nozzle Holder (1/4 elbow) (WAIHOLD14) = $19.00
1 x E6000 Thread Sealant (WAIE6000) = $2.00
10 x 1/4 Nylon Tubing (WAIHOSE14) = $12.50
1 x TANK TAP (1/4) (WAITNKTAP) = $24.00
1 x Union Tee (Plus) (WAITFITPLUS) = $15.00
1 x Direct Port (Base) System (WAIDPBASE) = $530.00
Configuration: 6-cylinder
Air cooling: 6PLUS2 (big turbo)
Nozzle size 45cc
------------------------------------------------------
Sub-Total: $661.50
United States Postal Service (Priority Mail® Padded Flat Rate Envelope): $28.90
Total: $690.40USD

$32USD for tubing. I had to order in 40 more feet of 3/16” nylon tubing from Amazon. I could probably get away with another 30 feet but I had to order in lengths of 20 feet.

$30USD for 6 check valves. You could probably piece together a setup from AliExpress and local vendors. For instance the USRT check valve is $30 for 1 unit. When the tubing was extra long, like 4 feet from the intake manifold to the cabin air filter where I’ll be mounting the distributor, there was no safety to prevent siphoning except the solenoid so I went with 6 check valve for $30 shipped. Ok, Yes the USRT ones are smaller and discreet, but the valves will be hidden under the intake manifold and out of sight. As long as they do their job, I’m happy.

$150USD for the AEM pump

$170USD for W/M controller. I already had the Snow Performance Stage 3 controller in my A4 so I bought a simpler AEM controller to replace it.

Not a cheap endeavour by any means but you gotta pay to play. Keep in mind the Canadian dollar is currently at 0.7 USD so multiply these numbers by 1.4 and that’s how much I had to pay .

[Silverex]

Link to the 6 check valves for $30??

FWIW: for octane boost water is better than meth.

[RMode]

Awesome build, where did you get the color MFI done? I've always wanted one.

Biggest limitation, it’s not expandable and can’t display a wideband. Thankfully alternatives do


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[Cybersombosis]

Here is a link. You'd have to search a bit more if you wanted cheaper. I got mine for $6.79 CAD each with free shipping.

https://a.aliexpress.com/_msZ6MPN

I use 50/50 by weight, winter windshield washer fluid. I take a new bottle of windshield washer fluid and fill the remaining airspace with methyl hydrate to the top. Best of both worlds for post intercooler cooling and octane boost at the intake manifold.

[Tec_Nine]

I got mine from Cluster Mods. He can upload the color of your car for door open and a custom splash screen when you turn the ignition on.

https://clustermodzco.wixsite.com/clustermodz/test

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Appreciate it, thanks.

[travis_w]

Biggest limitation, it’s not expandable and can’t display a wideband. Thankfully alternatives do


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It's costly too.

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[Cybersombosis]

Intake manifold is now mounted to the engine along with valve covers powder coated in wrinkle black.

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Engine is now pulled from the S4. Need to separate the trans from the S4 motor to mate it up to the Allroad motor.

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Before I removed the engine, I could hear an intermittent dingling sound. I did a little searching on the web on what it might be and I found a picture from an RX7 of something that sounded like what I had in my car. The sound was right at the bell housing. Could it be something like this???

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Car drove fine but engagement of the clutch was not the same as my A4. When I first picked the car up, I noticed that when I pushed the clutch in and it bottomed out, the car would not start. When I put more force down on the clutch pedal, it would move another 1/2 inch and engage the safety switch and then start. On my A4, when the clutch bottoms out, you can't push it down anymore as it hits the pan. Something was up but I didn't know what so I was anxious to pull the trans from the engine to confirm my suspicions and this is what I found.

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Bingo! Called it. Hopefully with a new clutch and throwout bearing, everything will be back to normal.

The first thing I ordered was the exhaust and the last thing to show up was the exhaust. The downpipes are finally here!!!

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Add a little exhaust wrap and they are ready to be put on the engine once the trans is mounted.

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[Tec_Nine]

Making some great progress, surprised how good those downpipes look. My car is still rocking the early ssac setup it came with. I was looking to swap it out, may just go with the new version turbo back from them. At the price point, looks like a decent product.

[Cybersombosis]

Ya I’m super happy with the fitment and what looks to be good quality in the welds and parts used. I have an eBay special on my A4 and that fitment is great as well. Tame when idling and driving around town and opens up when I get on it. Hopefully this 3” won’t drone at 3000rpm like a lot of exhausts but it isn’t 3” to the ends so hopefully that will be quiet enough for me when around town and open when I floor it.

[Cybersombosis]

Hey everyone. Little update. Ringer Racing Stage 4 clutch and TTV S4 flywheel are now mounted to the engine.

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Trans is now mounted too along with the downpipes. I had some extra exhaust wrap and wrapped the length of header close to the turbo. Used some silicone spray paint to seal the wrap.

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The engine is ready to go back in. Just waiting for my base file from the tuner. In the meantime he told me to order in a wideband O2 sensor so I went with the Spartan 3 Lite v2 - w/ LSU Adv.

[Cybersombosis]

OK so I was able to get the engine in and complete the exhaust. Got the base file from the tuner and went for the inaugural run today. No leaks! Now I have to break the clutch in for the next 500km or so, so I have some driving to do. I’ll tune without meth initially and add it after as I still have to uninstall the Snow controller from my A4, install the AEM controller into the A4, then install the Snow controller in the S4, all which can happen as I tune. Meth manifold still has to be plumbed in and mounted along with the wideband sensor once it shows up.

I installed the water meth pump beside the power steering reservoir on the wiring bracket cage.
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It covers up nicely using an A4 power steering reservoir cover.
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[ShelbyM3]

OK so I was able to get the engine in and complete the exhaust. Got the base file from the tuner and went for the inaugural run today. No leaks! Now I have to break the clutch in for the next 500km or so, so I have some driving to do. I’ll tune without meth initially and add it after as I still have to uninstall the Snow controller from my A4, install the AEM controller into the A4, then install the Snow controller in the S4, all which can happen as I tune. Meth manifold still has to be plumbed in and mounted along with the wideband sensor once it shows up.

I installed the water meth pump beside the power steering reservoir on the wiring bracket cage.
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It covers up nicely using an A4 power steering reservoir cover.
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Nice job! Congrats on getting her back on the road!

Is it just me of is your oil cooler housing rotated some?


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[Cybersombosis]

Nice job! Congrats on getting her back on the road!

Is it just me of is your oil cooler housing rotated some?

I don’t think so. I haven’t touched it. It looks to be the same as the one on the engine I swapped it out with.

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I was able to plumb the water/meth manifold and cut all the lines to length. My son will design and 3D print a bracket so I can mount it to the car.

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[Cybersombosis]

So this is a weird one, ever since I bought the car last summer, the clutch has always been a little weird. When I first picked her up, I tried pushing the clutch to the floor and turn the key but it would not crank over. I had to push the clutch into harder an extra 1/2 inch in order to push the safety in far enough to depress it. I adjusted the safety and moved it in closer so I wouldn’t have to push so hard. That worked great before I pulled the engine.

Now with the stage 4 clutch kit installed, with the clutch pedal all the way down, I had a hard time getting the trans into any gear when the car was running. If I pumped the clutch a few times, it would eventually go into gear but it was disconcerting sitting at a light and not being able to go into first or any gear for that matter. I even had to turn the car off, shove it into the gear I wanted, then start the car up again then take off. I was thinking that maybe I didn’t bleed the slave enough so I re-bled the slave by reaching the bleed screw from the top once I removed the driver’s side O2 sensor and reverse bled it again. There was just enough space. Got back in the car and it was shifting into gear again. Went out the next morning and went to move the car and sure enough, it was difficult to get it into gear again.

What I figure out was that the clutch on my car doesn’t like to be fully engaged to the floor. It will shift nicely if it’s a 1/2 an inch above the floor. So I put a block of wood under the carpet to stop the pedal short of the floor and voila, the trans shifts easily in to gear now. Has anyone experienced this on their S4?

[CELison]

What slave cylinder? I used a RR clutch with a TTV FW and never had an issue with the OEM slave.

[Cybersombosis]

I assume it’s the original plastic slave cylinder. It’s been odd from the get go. Nothing like my A4 clutch which is expected. I was thinking that the oddities would have fixed themselves once the bad throwout bearing was replaced but alas, the quirky engagement was still there. With the block of wood it basically working as normal. A dual mass flywheel with Luk disk came out so I’m thinking OEM. Now, there is evidence of something blowing up inside the bell housing. There is a chunk missing off the side of the trans and a crack and some impact markings all around the bell. Something happened and I’m not sure what.

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[ShelbyM3]

I assume it’s the original plastic slave cylinder. It’s been odd from the get go. Nothing like my A4 clutch which is expected. I was thinking that the oddities would have fixed themselves once the bad throwout bearing was replaced but alas, the quirky engagement was still there. With the block of wood it basically working as normal. A dual mass flywheel with Luk disk came out so I’m thinking OEM. Now, there is evidence of something blowing up inside the bell housing. There is a chunk missing off the side of the trans and a crack and some impact markings all around the bell. Something happened and I’m not sure what.

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Damn! Maybe your tone ring exploded, but I wouldn’t think that’d crack the bell housing like that. It could be possible the float in your master is sticking and causing issues with fluid transfer. Speedometer/VSS works fine?


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[Cybersombosis]

Ya everything is working ok aside from the full depth of the clutch making it hard to stick the trans in to gear. When I got under the car after buying it, and with the weird engagement, I thought I’d be looking for another 01E but only time will tell. I thought I had the same issue as a customer’s car who had just bought a B6 S4 who thought he needed a new clutch, but after getting it on the lift with me in the car, my partner got under it and inspected the trans as I pushed on the clutch. The entire bell housing was separating from the trans as I put pressure on pedal. Absolutely crazy stuff. We have no idea what the kid who sold the car to him did to destroy the bell housing. He drove down island 150km to us with no reverse.

Clutch out.
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Clutch in.
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[ShelbyM3]

Ya everything is working ok aside from the full depth of the clutch making it hard to stick the trans in to gear. When I got under the car after buying it, and with the weird engagement, I thought I’d be looking for another 01E but only time will tell. I thought I had the same issue as a customer’s car who had just bought a B6 S4 who thought he needed a new clutch, but after getting it on the lift with me in the car, my partner got under it and inspected the trans as I pushed on the clutch. The entire bell housing was separating from the trans as I put pressure on pedal. Absolutely crazy stuff. We have no idea what the kid who sold the car to him did to destroy the bell housing. He drove down island 150km to us with no reverse.

Clutch out.
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Clutch in.
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I have never seen damage to a bell housing like that 🫣 The PO must have jumped it or some crazy impact.


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[Cybersombosis]

Small update. The wideband O2 sensor showed up so I’ve connected the signal wire from the unit to the black wire on the passenger side rear O2 sensor. The other is completely removed.

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I also hooked up my Snow Performance stage 3 meth controller.

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The car’s all set up now and just waiting on tuning.

[ZeroGrav]

Glad to see more of these style builds. Good luck on your journey, excited for whats to come! I've had a spartan wideband setup sitting in a box somewhere in the garage for years, will you be getting a gauge for realtime info, or is it possible to display on the MFD?

[Cybersombosis]

Thanks! I’m just using the Spartan for logging. Only the tuner will see the values in the data. I want the interior to be 100% stock looking aside from the MFD. Apparently the MFD can show whatever measuring blocks you want displayed. You just have to go into the menu and select that and the MB. I believe you can ask the developer to display what you want on the 5 main screens so if you want a/f ratio, they can put that in a custom menu. For me, I’m just using it as a boost gauge as I didn’t want a steering wheel pod or a vent gauge just to keep it all sneaky and sleeper like.

A small update. Rather than cut up the airbox and install a larger MAF, to keep in the spirit of an OEM look as much as possible, I’ve decided to go speed density for tuning rather than a B5 RS4/B6 S4 MAF. My tuner has said it is something that he can do with a separate MAP sensor installed in the intake manifold. I’ll be able to drill 3 holes to install the sensor on top of the manifold so I don’t have to uninstall the intake manifold to put it in from underneath. There’s just enough space for this sensor. I’ll make a pigtail that goes from the OEM MAF plug to the new map sensor using a spare MAF and a connector I bought with the sensor so I can put it back to MAF if need be.

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