2013 Audi S6 - Swapped Engine - new problems P0597 - P2005 - P1101

[russjameson]

Hey gurus,
Quick run down of my last 6 months.
2013 S6 with 109,xxx miles on it. (SRM RS7 CHRAs, installed in 2017 when removing the screen wasn't suggested yet)
Jan 10th, Driving aggressively in Northern Virginia traffic one turbo/both turbos go boom, YES I still had my oil screen in. I was 5 minutes from my destination, and though I could coast all the way there.....2 miles later, engine quazi-seizes (Hydrolocked from massive oil intake from both turbos snapping both hot sides off and oil flooding my intake manifolds) I'm an idiot PART 1

I got a new engine from Lifetime Audi Parts in NC, They said it was good to go, but it looks like the donor car had impact from the driver's front.
There were some connectors to the components on the front drivers side that were damaged, so I spliced in the CWA-50 connector and one other one at the end of that run form my old harness. (YES I KNOW I SHOULD HAVE USED MY KNOWN WORKING OLD HARNESS) I'm an idiot part 2. There are a lot of things I wish I had done. like swapped over all the vacuum lines and components from my old engine. I'm an idiot Part 3

Engine is in, but I have 3 or 4 codes that I am battling. One is brand new as of yesterday (that is the Cam adjuster).
1. I tested continuity between pins 1 and 2 of the thermostat, and got nothing. I have a new thermostat sitting next to me ready to go in.
2. Intake manifold flap (Eff me, this looks like an engine out again replacement possibly) Bank 2 is the Driver's side correct? I know the pneumatic valve is located under the intake manifold by the fuel rail, and the position sensor sending unit is up front behind the Main intake manifold. Tucked in behind the fuel supply line to the fuel rail.
3. New code as of yesterday. I'm first going to unplug and reconnect both intake and exhaust actuators, since I don't know which one is A or B. if that doesn't work, I'm going to take the ones off my old engine and see if this clears up.

4. *This is from OBDeleven not Vagcom* - P2279 00 - Intake Air System Leak - static I have an boost leak that is not constant. I have used a smoke tester and it looks like it is coming from the front driver's side behind where the intake manifold front seal is, around the same location as the N75 valve.


My car is in my garage on quick jacks, and I'm going to be pulling out to service mode after I smoke the intake again to try to pin point the leak.

Here are my codes from Vagcom.
Chassis Type: FC-AU57 (4G0)
Scan: 01 02 03 05 06 08 09 10 15 16 17 19 22 28 34 36 3B 3C 42 44
46 47 52 53 55 5F 62 6C 72 88 89 8F 90 A9 BA

VIN: WAUF2AFC7DN128074 Mileage: 175939km-109323miles

Address 01: Engine (------CEUC) Labels:. 06E-907-551-CGW.clb
Part No SW: 4G0 906 014 B HW: 4H0 906 014
Component: 4.0l V8TFSI / X62 0009
Revision: NCX62--- CVN: D0AAE84F
Coding: 0A2500326526000E1000
Shop #: WSC 00477 128 28888
ASAM Dataset: EV_ECM40TFS0114G0906014B 001009
ROD: EV_ECM40TFS0114G0906014B.rod
VCID: 21426448301C809E6C-8074
VINID: 9D19560915931D478108800710E58881DB

3 Faults Found:
7036 - Thermostat for Mapped Engine Cooling (F265)
P0597 00 [00101000] - Open Circuit
Intermittent - Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear
Freeze Frame:
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 12
Mileage: 175931 km
Date: 2024.06.24
Time: 10:11:13

Engine RPM: 0.00 /min
Normed load value: 0.0 %
Vehicle speed: 0 km/h
Coolant temperature: 84 °C
Intake air temperature: 63 °C
Ambient air pressure: 1000 mbar
Voltage terminal 30: 11.638 V
Unlearning counter according OBD: 40
Engine status: COENG_READY
Engine status-Test_Program_Co Eng st COMPU VERB UBYTE: 1

8994 - Intake Manifold Flap; Bank 2
P2005 00 [11101101] - Stuck Open
MIL ON - Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear
Freeze Frame:
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 1
Mileage: 175931 km
Date: 2024.06.24
Time: 10:12:00

Engine RPM: 1200.00 /min
Normed load value: 7.1 %
Vehicle speed: 0 km/h
Coolant temperature: 84 °C
Intake air temperature: 69 °C
Ambient air pressure: 1000 mbar
Voltage terminal 30: 13.570 V
Unlearning counter according OBD: 40
Engine status: COENG_RUNNING
Engine status-Test_Program_Co Eng st COMPU VERB UBYTE: 3

14294 - Cam Adjustment Actuator A; Cylinder 8
P11D1 00 [11101101] - Implausible Signal
MIL ON - Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear
Freeze Frame:
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 7
Mileage: 175931 km
Date: 2024.06.24
Time: 10:12:00

Engine RPM: 844.50 /min
Normed load value: 12.5 %
Vehicle speed: 0 km/h
Coolant temperature: 84 °C
Intake air temperature: 68 °C
Ambient air pressure: 1000 mbar
Voltage terminal 30: 13.546 V
Unlearning counter according OBD: 40
Engine status: COENG_RUNNING
Engine status-Test_Program_Co Eng st COMPU VERB UBYTE: 3

[Audibellybutton]

I cant comment on the 14294 although that is probably the most concerning,

but for the first code, thermostat is likely bad, happens on these early models. easy fix, or its unplugged

2nd code, stuck open is interesting, definitely check all vacuum lines , could be something as simple as a vacuum leak

[fastboatster]

14294 seems to be related to COD/AVS actuators:
https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/20...23700-9999.pdf
not too bad of a fix, but could be caused by damages wiring

[Audibellybutton]

In that case ^^^

Check all COD plugs are plugged in, these are the wires near the ignition coils. Also make sure the plugs connected to the passenger side wastegate actuator bracket are plugged in

[russjameson]

I fixed the Actuator, it looked fine, but when I took it out it was broken into 2 pieces. Replaced it with and that code is gone. Thermostat was dead, replaced it and that code it gone as well.

now I'm just stuck with this one.

8994 - Intake Manifold Flap; Bank 2
P2005 00 [11100101] - Stuck Open
MIL ON - Not Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear
Freeze Frame:
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 1
Mileage: 175939 km
Date: 2024.06.28
Time: 13:34:16

Engine RPM: 1388.00 /min
Normed load value: 7.8 %
Vehicle speed: 0 km/h
Coolant temperature: 26 °C
Intake air temperature: 28 °C
Ambient air pressure: 1010 mbar
Voltage terminal 30: 13.570 V
Unlearning counter according OBD: 40
Engine status: COENG_RUNNING
Engine status-Test_Program_Co Eng st COMPU VERB UBYTE: 3


I have smoked tested it and there is a leak, but its almost impossible to see where its coming from.

When smoke testing, I have SRM long tubes, do you guys plug one intake and smoke the other.
Or do you go in from another point, like the rubber line going to the wastegates?

[Audibellybutton]

I fixed the Actuator, it looked fine, but when I took it out it was broken into 2 pieces. Replaced it with and that code is gone. Thermostat was dead, replaced it and that code it gone as well.

now I'm just stuck with this one.

8994 - Intake Manifold Flap; Bank 2
P2005 00 [11100101] - Stuck Open
MIL ON - Not Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear
Freeze Frame:
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 1
Mileage: 175939 km
Date: 2024.06.28
Time: 13:34:16

Engine RPM: 1388.00 /min
Normed load value: 7.8 %
Vehicle speed: 0 km/h
Coolant temperature: 26 °C
Intake air temperature: 28 °C
Ambient air pressure: 1010 mbar
Voltage terminal 30: 13.570 V
Unlearning counter according OBD: 40
Engine status: COENG_RUNNING
Engine status-Test_Program_Co Eng st COMPU VERB UBYTE: 3


I have smoked tested it and there is a leak, but its almost impossible to see where its coming from.

When smoke testing, I have SRM long tubes, do you guys plug one intake and smoke the other.
Or do you go in from another point, like the rubber line going to the wastegates?

Have you or any of the previous owners removed the intake manifold? The flaps could be incorrectly positioned. With a vacuum leak the flaps are usually stuck closed. But there could be another faulty potentially with g316 solenoid

[russjameson]

Yes I took the I take donor drivers side (bank 2) manifold off and replaced it with my old one. The donor one had some damage and I didn't want to risk a leak. Do you think I just put the sensor on incorrectly on the front of the manifold, and didn't key it up properly?

[Audibellybutton]

It may not be what you want to hear but you need to manually actuate the manifold flaps when you put it back on so it sits properly. It’s a common mistake on Audis. Unless you did do that, then it’s probably not the issue

Start watching at 28:50

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=cgZIJE...ndex=7&pp=iAQB

[russjameson]

Can I apply vacuum to the passenger side line after disconnecting it from the passenger side actuator, to actuate the flap, then reattach the position sender with it lined up with the tab on the flap runner shaft.

[Audibellybutton]

Yeah since the driver side actuator is so hard to get to, I would manually actuate the flaps by connecting the vacuum pump to the soft line that is connected to the hardline that runs to the driver side

You should be able to see it easily with the front off but in short yeah you can definitely actuate the driver side with that connection on the passenger side

[russjameson]

It may not be what you want to hear but you need to manually actuate the manifold flaps when you put it back on so it sits properly. It’s a common mistake on Audis. Unless you did do that, then it’s probably not the issue

Start watching at 28:50

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=cgZIJE...ndex=7&pp=iAQB

Is this an engine out thing? I saw the video it looks like the flaps have to be aligned during install. I guess there is no way to get to the 9 bolts to loosen them enough to separate the manifold from the head, and apply vacuum?

[russjameson]

It may not be what you want to hear but you need to manually actuate the manifold flaps when you put it back on so it sits properly. It’s a common mistake on Audis. Unless you did do that, then it’s probably not the issue

Start watching at 28:50

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=cgZIJE...ndex=7&pp=iAQB

Do you think it would be possible to remove the steering rack, remove the driver's side motor mount, and loosen the 9 bolts to move the manifold away from the head enough to apply vacuum to shut the flaps, then set it back on the head?

[Audibellybutton]

Do you think it would be possible to remove the steering rack, remove the driver's side motor mount, and loosen the 9 bolts to move the manifold away from the head enough to apply vacuum to shut the flaps, then set it back on the head?

While it is pretty much an engine out job, I have been told that you just need to lower the engine 6 inches and you can remove the intake manifold without pulling the engine completely out. Make sure you disconnect the gear shift, or at least release the tension before you lower it

[russjameson]

While it is pretty much an engine out job, I have been told that you just need to lower the engine 6 inches and you can remove the intake manifold without pulling the engine completely out. Make sure you disconnect the gear shift, or at least release the tension before you lower it

Is this lowering the subframe? Do I need to remove the ECU and disconnect the fuel and coolant hoses on the passenger side and disconnect down pipes to drop it 6 inches?

I'm thinking since the flaps are on the bottom of the manifold I should be able to just loosen the 9 bolts enough to separate it from the head a half inch, and not remove it completely, to cycle the flaps into the closed position. I'll check it out and report back.

I took the engine out the front without the transmission. Was not fun, but got the job done with an engine hoist.

[russjameson]

While it is pretty much an engine out job, I have been told that you just need to lower the engine 6 inches and you can remove the intake manifold without pulling the engine completely out. Make sure you disconnect the gear shift, or at least release the tension before you lower it

Do you have the procedure or instructions to do this?

I can't find anything on "disconnecting or releasing the tension on the shifter" for a C7 Audi S6 anywhere.

Thanks

[cderics6]

Is this lowering the subframe? Do I need to remove the ECU and disconnect the fuel and coolant hoses on the passenger side and disconnect down pipes to drop it 6 inches?

I'm thinking since the flaps are on the bottom of the manifold I should be able to just loosen the 9 bolts enough to separate it from the head a half inch, and not remove it completely, to cycle the flaps into the closed position. I'll check it out and report back.

I took the engine out the front without the transmission. Was not fun, but got the job done with an engine hoist.

Hello, fellow 2013 s6 owner preparing to swap a donor cars engine in. Do you have any information/advice on pulling both the engine and transmission at once? As I’m sure you know information regarding engine DIY swaps on these cars is scarce. TIA

[pgillis82]

Did you get this done? I've had mine out twice in the last year. Put it in service mode, disconnect the steering shaft from the rack, remove the plugs to the steering rack and remove the rack bolts and let the rack hang. Pull the downpipes off the back of the motor and remove the bell housing bolts and starter. Remove all the electrical connections that go on top of the passenger side fender from the junction box by the firewall. Couple other little things that I can't think of right now and then take the motor mount bolts out of the mount that's bolted to the frame rails and leave the mounts on the motor, Put a jack under the transmission and jack up the transmission a few inches tilting the engine up on the front, hook up a hoist (cherry picker) and pull the motor right out the front leaving the transmission in place in the car. I can have this motor out and hanging on the hoist in about 5-6 hours now after doing it twice. Lol.