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  1. #1
    Active Member One Ring
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    Apr 21 2011
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    Seattle, Wa

    Cheapest Forged Pistons for 1.8T Stroker Build

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    Hi everyone,

    I've searched the forums and found mixed opinions about which factory pistons are forged. I'm currently piecing together a "budget" stroker build for my B6 1.8T 06A engine with a 2.0 FSI crank and 144mm x 20mm aftermarket forged rods. My goal is to achieve 400-450whp (if possible).

    I need advice on which factory 2.0T engines came with forged pistons and what pistons will work with my stroker build. Overboring and honing are not issues.

    Couple of questions:
    What are the whp limit of recommended factory forged piston?
    Does the piston need to be modified?
    What are the pros and cons (besides hp rating) as opposed to going aftermarket?
    Any other random tidbits you think I should know going this route?

    Please drop a link to recommended pistons if you have one as well as recommended threads I should read.

    Thanks in advance!

  2. #2
    Senior Member Three Rings a.four's Avatar
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    Jun 09 2019
    AZ Member #
    491282
    My Garage
    2023 Jeep Wrangler
    Location
    NJ

    I know you mentioned factory forged, but figured I’d put it out there I have a set of IE JE stroker pistons for sale.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  3. #3
    Active Member One Ring
    Join Date
    Apr 21 2011
    AZ Member #
    74376
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    Seattle, Wa

    Quote Originally Posted by a.four View Post
    I know you mentioned factory forged, but figured I’d put it out there I have a set of IE JE stroker pistons for sale.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    I'm not 100% set on factory forged pistons and trying to find relevant information has been difficult. Are they new? What are the specs and how much are you trying to get for them?

  4. #4
    Senior Member Three Rings a.four's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 09 2019
    AZ Member #
    491282
    My Garage
    2023 Jeep Wrangler
    Location
    NJ

    Cheapest Forged Pistons for 1.8T Stroker Build

    Quote Originally Posted by riggy30 View Post
    I'm not 100% set on factory forged pistons and trying to find relevant information has been difficult. Are they new? What are the specs and how much are you trying to get for them?
    Yes, they’re new. Please check my post.

    https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink/top...ink_source=app


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  5. #5
    Veteran Member Four Rings Kevin C's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 28 2015
    AZ Member #
    323385
    My Garage
    1987 Dodge Raider G54B Turbo
    Location
    Portland OR, United States

    If you are running a 1.8T head and ge aftermarket pistons then you don't want the aftermarket 2.0Tfsi pistons since they have the wrong valve reliefs. For aftermarket the 1.8T forgings make sense and they cost less. If your going low budget and want to mod a set of OEM pistons I would not get hung up on how they were made. They are pretty strong and the GDI engines ar a lot more demanding on the pistons than a port injected engine. The TFSI pistons have anodized top ring grooves and are quite tough.

    Any 2.0Tfsi piston will require you to bore and hone the block. It's possible to run the 2.0T block with the 1.8T head and just mod the piston tops to work with the five valve setup. That saves the cost of pistons and block work.

    Mahle 1.8T stroker pistons are my recommendation. Boring and honing adds about $400 (not up on current costs). I had mine done with a deck plate to improve ring seal and reduce blowby.
    2003 02X Six speed swapped, RS4 RSB, H&R FSB, B7 brakes, 2.0T stroker, DSMIC's, B7 CTS K04 turbo.

  6. #6
    Active Member One Ring
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    Apr 21 2011
    AZ Member #
    74376
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    Seattle, Wa

    Quote Originally Posted by Kevin C View Post
    If you are running a 1.8T head and ge aftermarket pistons then you don't want the aftermarket 2.0Tfsi pistons since they have the wrong valve reliefs. For aftermarket the 1.8T forgings make sense and they cost less. If your going low budget and want to mod a set of OEM pistons I would not get hung up on how they were made. They are pretty strong and the GDI engines ar a lot more demanding on the pistons than a port injected engine. The TFSI pistons have anodized top ring grooves and are quite tough.

    Any 2.0Tfsi piston will require you to bore and hone the block. It's possible to run the 2.0T block with the 1.8T head and just mod the piston tops to work with the five valve setup. That saves the cost of pistons and block work.

    Mahle 1.8T stroker pistons are my recommendation. Boring and honing adds about $400 (not up on current costs). I had mine done with a deck plate to improve ring seal and reduce blowby.
    Thank you, Kevin. It seems like building and stroking the 1.8T might be the most expensive route. I've considered staying with the stock stroke, and I found a set of forged 1.8T rods and pistons (86.2mm stroke, 83mm bore) on Carrot Top Tuning for $800, but the compression ratio is 8.5:1.

    I haven't thought about using a 2.0T block with a 1.8T head, as I've read that the 06A 1.8T block is a better starting point for a build. However, I just found a 2.0FSI block on Facebook Marketplace for $300. I'm unsure about the cost to modify those pistons to work with the 1.8T 20V heads, along with the other requirements (ECU, fueling, timing, cams, etc.) to make it work in the B6 chassis.

    I'm assuming the main reason to use the 1.8T head is to simplify things by avoiding the complicated DI fuel system of the 2.0T? I've also considered going with a standalone ECU, so a 2.0T block with aftermarket forged rods and a 1.8T head doesn't sound like a bad setup.

  7. #7
    Veteran Member Four Rings Kevin C's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 28 2015
    AZ Member #
    323385
    My Garage
    1987 Dodge Raider G54B Turbo
    Location
    Portland OR, United States

    What the motor is is determined by the head. What head you run determines what fuel injection you use (kind of stating the obvious). To get 2 liters of displacement for cheap a complete 2.0TFSI short block with modified pistons is one option. Its been done a few times. The stock rods are an upgrade from the 1.8T rods and the pistons are pretty tough. The oil pump is an issue (the 2.0 has a built in counter balance system) and most covert to the 1.8T pump with a 1.8T filter adaptor. That's the lowest cost way to get there since you just need to mod the stock pistons and perhaps use a Cometic head gasket to get the CR right. Finding a decent 2.0TFSI to build can be an issue. I used a bare block, new crank and oil pump with Mahle 1.8T stroker pistons to build a one off 1.8T stroker with a balance shaft system. Not needed for performance but it is torquey and and really smooth. It's also gotten a lot more expensive since parts prices have gone up a lot.

    The 2.0 block has more webbing, mostly to support the balance shaft unit and it also has beefy looking main caps. That's not needed for any 1.8T build, but it does look cool.

    The next option is the 2.0 crank in the 1.8T block. That of course is the most common build. To save money you could modify a set of used 2.0T pistons to work with the 1.8T head. No matter what you need to have the block machined and would want a set of aftermarket rods. If I was to guess I would say $300 to mod the pistons and $400 for the block work. ITs been three years since I had any work done and I have not had pistons custom machined for a really long time so at best that's a WAG of $700 in labor to convert.

    If your going that far getting a real set of 1.8T stroker pistons would be my recommendation. I really like the Mahle ones the IE carries. The alloy does not need super wide wall clearances and they have hard anodized ring grooves and coated skirts. Figure about $1000 for a set and of course you still need to get the block machined. That put you about $700 above the cost of reusing a set of 2.0T pistons, less once you figure in the cost of a set of rings to go along with the used pistons. As a WAG say $500 more for new pistons.

    Basically, my recommendation is to find a set of dedicated 1.8T stroker pistons since the incremental cost is not that much. I dont know of a drop piston set that gets around having to machine the block. At this point any used block has enough time and miles that a fresh bore is a good call. I would recommend finding a shop that has a deck plate to pre stress the block when getting it machined.

    A lot of this depends on what you want. You can have a lot of fun while spending less with a few shortcuts and still have a good motor. It's easier to get good results by spending more, but its not guaranteed. I have three years and 20,000+ miles on this build and the oil numbers still look great with low oil usage and blowby and its still nice and smooth. I plan on keeping the car at least three more years and its reasonable that the setup should hold up just fine. You can ask yourself how long does your build need to last. For sure, in five years I really don't see me using my A4 as a daily driver and I probably won't be driving it to work.

    Mahle Pistons

    20191208_220942.jpg

    2.0TFSI block getting setup with IE rods used with a 1.8T head
    20200405_221106.jpg

    The somewhat crazy stroker that I put together: https://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...oker-O6F-block
    2003 02X Six speed swapped, RS4 RSB, H&R FSB, B7 brakes, 2.0T stroker, DSMIC's, B7 CTS K04 turbo.

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