Brake Fluid Reservoir REMOVAL (PLEASE HELP)

[hpfiend]

Hey all,

I just got a new to me 2003 Allroad 2.7TT APR stage 1 6-speed rust free wagon with 160K. Sweet ride but man is it problematic. The brakes give out mid pedal which was exciting on a 9 hour drive home with my son and now randomly the clutch has stuck to the floor and will not disengage. I am overhauling the braking system as well as replacing the defective (I think as it is leaking fluid below) slave cylinder and line with metal replacements. I have sucked the fluid out of the brake/clutch reservoir and am trying to remove it and cannot figure out what tool combination to get under the clip to release it at the same time rocking it back and forth to release the seals. I have tried small pry bars, plastic wedge tools, prybar first and then an open wrench jammed on top, etc. I have been at it for about 2 hours now! Does anyone have any tips/suggestions? I have the entire repair manual off of erwin but I could not find the related section with any help.

THANK YOU!

Andrew

[Calif_Kid]

I did a quick Youtube search for Audi A6 master cylinder, and https://youtu.be/SJW82j1lm3A?si=su-rS3QFB1rCWo4m&t=181 shows the plastic tank removal if needed. If needed, I posted the A6 manual in multiple sections in post #70 of thread https://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...ual-help/page2 and brakes are covered in the page 401-500 file with 47-7 covering bleeding and 47-8 the master cylinder/booster. Your shop manual should go thru the procedure to eventually bleed the brakes and clutch, and also mention how to use Vag Com to actuate the ABS unit to bleed it - I did that by having the driver side front brake bleeder screw open and then actuated the ABS unit.

PS - I've got a 2001 A6 2.7T 6-speed, and just fully flushed the brake fluid for the brakes and clutch. Accessing the clutch slave bleeder screw was tough as I could see it but not really reach it from the top, so from the bottom, I ended up taking the driver side inner CV axle heat shield off, plus I also disconnected the inner driver side axle from the trans and moved it out of the way, and that barely gave me room to touch but not see the clutch bleeder screw. I've read that the stock clutch slave bleeder screw is plastic so you have to be really careful to not break or strip it, but looks like you're replacing it with a metal slave.

- Jim

[hpfiend]

Jim,

Thanks for your excellent reply! Unfortunately I watched that video already and it doesn't show how he took it off. He has modified his middle firewall as well so has a lot more room that we do.

I will keep that mind on how to access the bleeder. I am currently unable to connect to the abs module with my vag com so I hope to remedy that soon. Thank you for the links I am downloading just in case I don't already have them. How did you locate the section 47-8?

Take care,
Andrew

[ShelbyM3]

https://youtu.be/uVBOdRi3fus?si=70W7_Zw_746BmkgG

This guys just pulls up and forward on it and it comes off. Try a little blip of a lubricant to help break the seals.


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[Calif_Kid]

Thank you for the links I am downloading just in case I don't already have them. How did you locate the section 47-8?

Take care,
Andrew

I just opened the last file (page 901-936) and went to the end of it that has the index, and initially looked for master cylinder and ended up just looking within the brakes section of the index. After that, I just opened up a few of the files to find those sections. It would have been nice to have everything in one file, but I had to chop it into quite a few files. After I did all of that, I figured it would be nice to list what sections are covered by each of the files, so I just added that info to the above post.

I had a Motive Power bleeder for bleeding the brakes, but ended up just using a Motive bleeder bottle like https://www.amazon.com/Genesis-Perso...000W7F2GI?th=1 and filling the bottom of the bottle with a small amount of new brake fluid, and with the end submerged, I could bleed each wheel by myself and just pressing the brake pedal with the bleeder open. I've heard, that when doing the bleeding, to make sure that you only press the brake pedal a similar amount to how it is usually pressed, as there could be crud and you could get internal leaks if you press it more than usual, so I put a few 2x4's under the brake pedal to make sure I don't press it too far.

Just wondering - why are you taking off the plastic tank? -Do you think it is leaking or needs to be removed to remove the master cylinder? I really didn't watch the videos very carefully, and I know that there isn't much room to access everything.

- Jim

[hpfiend]

Thanks for your time on this but that is not the same master cylinder reservoir that is on the allroad.

[hpfiend]

The bolts to the master cylinder are not accessible with it on there which I am replacing with a new one. Further, I can barely even see the line to the slave cylinder to replace it and have to take the pedals loose anyway to access the back of the clutch master to change the same line.

- - - Updated - - -

https://youtu.be/uVBOdRi3fus?si=70W7_Zw_746BmkgG

This guys just pulls up and forward on it and it comes off. Try a little blip of a lubricant to help break the seals.


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Thank you for your time but that is not the same brake fluid reservoir that is on the allroad.

[ShelbyM3]

Gotcha. Sorry. I see now what you’re up against. The clips is underneath in a C shape and the seals are on the side, inside the C. I think you’re going to have to get rough with it. Can you get some sort of pry tool on the clip and then give it a good smack with a pry bar between the reservoir and master? It sounds like you’ve probably tried this, but yeah I think you’re just going to have to dick with it for a while and break the seals free before it’ll come off.


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