Stage 2 - A6 3.0T Recommended Oil

[Touareggg]

To all the tuned Audi A6 3.0T (mine is a 2017, stage 2 sc pulley), what is their preferred oil that runs smooth and makes the car ‘drive quicker’ or ‘feel alive’ in cold climate? (in mass it’s below 12°C/~55F)

I usually go with SAE 5W-40 LiquiMoly but I’m open to test different viscosities/brands as long as they’re proven to be trustworthy longterm. Let me know your recommendations.

Thanks!

[Touareggg]

And yes, I know that anything that has Vw 502.00 spec will run fine. I am up for oil testings

[Optimus247]

Bobtheoilguy.com

[Alabama]

Let me know your recommendations.

You may wish to read AZ threads:

https://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...?highlight=oil
https://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...?highlight=oil
https://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...?highlight=oil

The consensus seems to be that any top quality oil is likely fine. If an owner really cares about their individual car, at the time of an oil change cut open the old filter for inspection and send an oil sample off for testing.

[A6sport]

To all the tuned Audi A6 3.0T (mine is a 2017, stage 2 sc pulley), what is their preferred oil that runs smooth and makes the car ‘drive quicker’ or ‘feel alive’ in cold climate? (in mass it’s below 12°C/~55F)

I usually go with SAE 5W-40 LiquiMoly but I’m open to test different viscosities/brands as long as they’re proven to be trustworthy longterm. Let me know your recommendations.

Thanks!

Start with an appropriate, quality oil and change it often.

[JWebb_C7_Comp]

All of the comments above make sense to me. I found that used oil analyses didn't teach me much about the differences in oils (and Blackstone didn't generally see problems) but for ONE time when there was silica (IIRC) in the oil. Blackstone suggested I check my intake system for leaks and sure enough I had a loose clamp. Tightened it and the problem didn't pop up again. I used VW Spec 5W40s from the top brands and in my tuned A6 (which is still running great at about 65K - 60k of which tuned) and my wife's Q7 (95k miles now), and settled on Motul 5W40 only because I can go 5-6K (6 months) without topping it off. I noted that the consumption on my wife's Q7 decreased as well, but isn't eliminated. So, for me, in my cars, in my location, that's the choice I made. Now, we have replaced the water pump in her Q and about to replace the starter. Neither car has had a problem due to oil brand, etc... And, I don't recall a car of mine in (well, let's just say many years) having an oil related problem. It's typically been the crap bolted onto motors, suspension, electronics, and the random knuckleheads that crash into my cars that have been the "problem" over the years.

I used to Auto-X alot and had a few years of track time as well. Again, never oil related issues and I've typically changed oil early and often using the correct spec --- on SALE where possible.


Hope that helps ease your mind.

[A665]

If anyone has actual data that clearly indicates that reputable motor oil brand X significantly outperforms reputable motor oil band y under average to slightly harder than average use, I'd like to see it. Meanwhile, I'll continue to use my brand of choice in the appropriate viscosity, I'll change it often (i.e., within every 5,000 miles), and I won't worry about it.

[Botbasher]

If anyone has actual data that clearly indicates that reputable motor oil brand X significantly outperforms reputable motor oil band y under average to slightly harder than average use, I'd like to see it. Meanwhile, I'll continue to use my brand of choice in the appropriate viscosity, I'll change it often (i.e., within every 5,000 miles), and I won't worry about it.

^^This!!!

There are many keyboard and car show warriors that proclaim the oil they use is the best over all the others. When pressed for proof in the form of accredited lab testing (i.e. to ASTM standards) they usually resort to name calling and other "talk" that simply informs one that they really didn't have anything but hearsay and hopes to stand on.

There's a reason that manufacturers don't do this themselves. When they state that "I'm better than you", they have be able to prove that and their really isn't a lawsuit proof way to do that given all the variables when talking cars. So they simply state what they purport to do best, sometimes adding in vague charts and "test" results and leave it at that! "Better Fuel Economy" ... better than what?? "Better cleaning"... better than what?

I like watching guys like Matt@Project Farm who provide some laughs while providing some really good, nearly scientific testing of various oils under semi real world conditions (baked, frozen and film strength!). Here is the Greatest Hits list for his oil testing! It's not lab quality, but it's honestly a step up from up from what oil manufacturers show you! And you might just be surprised at which oil outperforms the others!!

I like how he phrases his close out in one video, it works well for many things car related! He says... "They (the tested oils) are not necessarily a bad oil... they just didn't do well in my testing!" That is how things are in real life. What works well for one may not work well for others based on use, interval and various environmental conditions!

So like what A665 said... If it works for you, isn't a source of failures and doesn't break your bank... then does it really matter what is on the label?? Do your own testing by using the oil testing labs reports and change based on that. No matter what though... change your oil often regardless of what you use. Rarely does that steer you wrong!

Cheers!

KS

[Botbasher]

I like watching guys like Matt@Project Farm

Here is the TL;DR version where he gives all the subjective scores for his testing. Many big names finish lower than you'd probably expect!

Like he constantly states... he's not sponsored and purchases all his own test samples, so there isn't any influence other then user requests! This, IMHO, is a far more honest way to go than some FB or IG influencer hawking their compensated swag!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TWuK...krrCW&index=13

Cheers,

KS

[A4x]

^^This!!!

There are many keyboard and car show warriors that proclaim the oil they use is the best over all the others. When pressed for proof in the form of accredited lab testing (i.e. to ASTM standards) they usually resort to name calling and other "talk" that simply informs one that they really didn't have anything but hearsay and hopes to stand on.

There's a reason that manufacturers don't do this themselves. When they state that "I'm better than you", they have be able to prove that and their really isn't a lawsuit proof way to do that given all the variables when talking cars. So they simply state what they purport to do best, sometimes adding in vague charts and "test" results and leave it at that! "Better Fuel Economy" ... better than what?? "Better cleaning"... better than what?

Just to add to this, there are ways to prove one oil is better over another but the testing would take a very long time and would be very expensive. They would have to run some sort of wear tests to failure, under the same conditions, over and over again, until they have some statistical relevance. Then after all this effort and cost, it would result that any high quality oil performs very similar to another. Imagine a company paying a few million bucks or more just to prove their product is equivalent to competitors. I'm sure it's been done, but the results have not been marketed, haha.

[Botbasher]

Imagine a company paying a few million bucks or more just to prove their product is equivalent to competitors. I'm sure it's been done, but the results have not been marketed, haha.

To prove is actually very simple. You do not have to test to failure There are dozens of ASTMs that can provide a clear statistical pattern for pass/fail criteria. As long is there a directly observed change that WOULD lead to failure, the rest is easy. We use this to determine how long hoses will survive chemical exposure. Fill them with whatever chemical and then after a couple of days we weigh them. The loss can be microscopic, but known loss over known time gives you all that you need to determine a reasonable expectation of life expectancy.

The real kicker to this is something like the big BOLD EPA MPG numbers on the sticker when cars are purchased. Very few of us ever achieve those numbers on a regular basis despite the fact they are derived from a very specific test... why??

Because they don't drive the cars for months, under differing weather and road conditions with different drivers and non-spec tires and rims. They drive repetitive closed courses where cars are checked before every test and things are done perfectly every time. Starts and stops are slow and methodical. Traffic isn't a factor. Weather rarely changes. In essence, there is nothing real world about them, but it's the number the Govt accepts and we have to live with. That's what the ASTM testing methods give you!

For example... I have 600 plates in front of me as I type that I have to keep at 75F (+/-2F) before I use them for each test. I measure EVERY one to account for energy consumed at the unit. My room must stay within 75F (+/-5F) wile the entire test is performed. Incoming water temp is held to 70F (+/-2F). How many dishrooms are kept that controlled? How many dishes are that temp before entering the unit? 4F shift in water temp in a typical commercial building!! Get real! But that's what I have to adhere to. Would the unit use the same energy at a customers location? Sure... if they had all the same values! The testing is easy, but it rarely applies to real world conditions!

Trying that with oil would be the same. Sure, you could get a value from ASTM derived testing, but when it fails to meet CONSUMER expectations, the oil companies and then the government would catch hell. Even though you didn't do this... or exceeded that. As it is, so as long as they do a good job of lubricating without making wild claims... they are left alone to make their vague claims that no one really ever questions at a level that no lawyer would want to take the case! Oil is rarely found to be the primary culprit in extreme motor failures. You generally only see oil based issues when looking at long term wear and even then there are usually contributing factors.

You are spot on with the "similarity" issue, as pointed out in the testing PF did. Many are so similar it would be difficult to tell them apart if you didn't have a label! No mfg is willing to broach that possibility!!

It's still like A665 said. Find what works for you and your style of driving, confirm it works through supported testing and move on from there. Opinions are like... well... they're varied and often unsupported by data. Even those supported by data may not be applicable to your intended use and situation.

There's only a few options here in reality. Basic daily driver... almost any oil will work with regular oil changes. Extreme driver... narrows to 4-5 options where only oil testing will tell you what really works for you and your motor at a "elemental" level, but again given the similarities, as long as it meets or exceeds spec you should be good to go! Even using the best oil means nothing with incorrect spec or exceeding the change intervals.

Some people just want to be told what to use and that is fine too. There just has to be a reasonable understanding that you may not get similar results. There is also a lot of snake oil out there. As long as you stay with a known name, use the proper spec for your motor and perform regular interval oil changes, the odds of any oil not performing well are pretty slim!

Cheers,

KS

[Valpo A7]

On my old untuned A7 it got a steady diet of factory fill Castrol Edge 5w40 for likely the first 155,000 miles of its life. I purchased at 142,000 miles and stayed with Castrol. I made the change to Mobil 1 and ran that for roughly the next 50,000 miles or so and then made a change again to Liquimoly and used that until I sold the car at 234,000 miles. The engine seemed to run and sound the best on the Liquimoly and I would have kept using it if I still had the car.

The previous owner and I followed the factory change of 10,000 miles. You are probably not driving the car hard all the time even tuned so following the 10,000 mile OCI is probably perfectly fine. If you drive it hard all the time then consider at least testing at 5,000 miles and figure out an interval that you can live with.

[Alabama]

So like what A665 said... If it works for you, isn't a source of failures and doesn't break your bank... then does it really matter what is on the label?? Do your own testing by using the oil testing labs reports and change based on that. No matter what though... change your oil often regardless of what you use. Rarely does that steer you wrong!

For what it's worth, the Petroleum Quality Institute of America tests motor oils to see if they meet claimed standards. All the brands AZ members usually mention do, with no dramatic differences among them. Consumer Reports once tested motor oils in New York City taxicabs for a couple of years and millions of stop-and-go miles. Their conclusion was that the brand of oil is much less important than regular oil changes (their ideal interval balancing performance vs. cost was 7,500 miles).