Valve/Cam cover gasket replacement

[esonu]

What are people paying for this job. I called the dealer and they gave a rough estimate of a minimum 2k and a local German auto shop said 2-2500. Any recommendations for shops on the Sacramento, CA area would be appreciated.

[Theiceman]

it's a bit of work but that seems expensive for a reseal. even factory sealant is only 100.00

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[audrobotic]

About a year ago, I was calling shops in Socal, and this "high end" VW/Audi shop threw out a number of maybe $1500 for the "cam ladder" as he called it. I didn't pay much attention, because I was asking about upper timing cover, which I think he said around $600+ which was absurd also, (actually the quotes were so high, I kinda tuned out, so a bit fuzzy on the recollection. He may have wanted to replace the actual timing cover in addition to just the gasket, I don't recall)

I found a good indy for $130 for the upper timing cover gasket. So I'm guessing a good shop could do the cam reseal for less than $1K. Maybe 4 hours of labor?

[Theiceman]

yeah just to be clear for those who might be reading but don't know. There is no gasket and it is more than just a cover.
That " cover" actually holds down the cams in place and had the fuel pump and vacuum pump at the back of it. Also there is no real " gasket" it is an anaerobic sealing product that is put on the surface and seals the thead and "cover". Actually i read recently they have gone to straight RTV for that seal which is concerning to me.

[seanf86]

About a year ago, I was calling shops in Socal, and this "high end" VW/Audi shop threw out a number of maybe $1500 for the "cam ladder" as he called it. I didn't pay much attention, because I was asking about upper timing cover, which I think he said around $600+ which was absurd also, (actually the quotes were so high, I kinda tuned out, so a bit fuzzy on the recollection. He may have wanted to replace the actual timing cover in addition to just the gasket, I don't recall)

I found a good indy for $130 for the upper timing cover gasket. So I'm guessing a good shop could do the cam reseal for less than $1K. Maybe 4 hours of labor?

Ondemand says labor time for valve cover gasket is 6.9hrs.

Upper timing cover gasket is 0.7 hours which makes the $130 you paid completely reasonable.

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[audrobotic]

yeah just to be clear for those who might be reading but don't know. There is no gasket and it is more than just a cover.
That " cover" actually holds down the cams in place and had the fuel pump and vacuum pump at the back of it. Also there is no real " gasket" it is an anaerobic sealing product that is put on the surface and seals the thead and "cover". Actually i read recently they have gone to straight RTV for that seal which is concerning to me.

Do you mean new VW/Audi cars may be using RTV?

[audrobotic]

Out of curiosity - is there a standard cure time for the anaerobic sealant? (Time to wait before running engine after install)

[scsu]

Out of curiosity - is there a standard cure time for the anaerobic sealant? (Time to wait before running engine after install)

No. Cure time will be listed on the tube.

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[Theiceman]

Do you mean new VW/Audi cars may be using RTV?

not sure, but I think smac or somone discovered the latest rev of this part is actually an rtv.

not sure of time as per the other post , but once you get the car back together I'm sure you are good to go. I'd leave it overnight but shops will tell you come get your car

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[esonu]

Everywhere I seen it does seem to state the gasket is an rtv rather than a premolded rubber. Another reputable German auto shop quoted a little under 1900 after tax. Seems like they have the best reviews also for quality work. Will just schedule out an appointment. It’s interesting to see how different and problematic Audis can be at higher mileage. Nothing seems to be simple. Guess I’m used to working on cars with a 10mm/12mm rather than a torx and normal repair parts lol.

[Theiceman]

Everywhere I seen it does seem to state the gasket is an rtv rather than a premolded rubber. Another reputable German auto shop quoted a little under 1900 after tax. Seems like they have the best reviews also for quality work. Will just schedule out an appointment. It’s interesting to see how different and problematic Audis can be at higher mileage. Nothing seems to be simple. Guess I’m used to working on cars with a 10mm/12mm rather than a torx and normal repair parts lol.

rtv is a misnomer and is used as a generic term and should not be .
rtv vulcanizes in the presence of oxygen. for any type of gasket exposed to the Inside of the engine it shouldn't be used as chunks can fall off and block oil passageways.
anaerobic flange Sealent is for two machines surfaces. it vulcanized with a lack of oxygen, meaning only the gasket between the two surfaces hardens into a sealant. the stuff that is squeezed inside or outside of the engine stays fluid and eventually washes away.
so if you are going to use rtv in this location it is imperative you use as little as possible to seal the surfaces because of the reasons mentioned

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[RPMtech147]

Don't get too caught up on the sealant. Just about any modern sealant/RTV works just fine. The OE stuff turns rock hard and is a pain to scrape off...and obviously it doesn't work great because every single one of these engines starts leaking pretty good around 100k from the cam cover. I like the Benz sealant as that's what's supplied at my shop, but I've used TheRightstuff, and other permetex sealants and never had a problem. Just decide if you want black, or grey (Makes it look cleaner lol) and make sure whatever sealant you use is ok to seal oil (So it wont absorb it and swell)

Resealing the cam cover can quickly turn into a full on timing job. I've attempted to try and release the tensioner and lock it back to take all the tension off the chains, and ultimately the cam shafts, but never had any luck. Even bought the special tool. There isn't enough room, at least for me, to get in there and lock back the tensioner, not without putting it in service position, and for what the labor pays, usually I go ahead and suggest doing a set of chains if car is near or over 100,000 miles.



****Here's a naughty little secret*****

If you just remove the cam bridge you can very slowly and evenly remove the cam cover, clean everything up, and very slowly, I mean like it takes a good 15 minutes, going a 1 rotation a screw, then moving to another screw until that one has just a bit of tension, until it pulls everything back down. You have to make sure all the rockers are seated, and if you do it wrong enough, you can crack a camshaft. DON"T do it this way....but Ive been told by a friend it works just fine.

Dont forget to put some oil on the cam bearings and cam lobes. I prefer to use assembly lube as it sticks...just gives me a little more warm and fuzzy, and make sure you slowly rotate the engine over after the valve cover is torqued, listening for bad noises and feeling for anything that might be binding.

[Chillaxin]

Don't get too caught up on the sealant. Just about any modern sealant/RTV works just fine. The OE stuff turns rock hard and is a pain to scrape off...and obviously it doesn't work great because every single one of these engines starts leaking pretty good around 100k from the cam cover. I like the Benz sealant as that's what's supplied at my shop, but I've used TheRightstuff, and other permetex sealants and never had a problem. Just decide if you want black, or grey (Makes it look cleaner lol) and make sure whatever sealant you use is ok to seal oil (So it wont absorb it and swell)

Resealing the cam cover can quickly turn into a full on timing job. I've attempted to try and release the tensioner and lock it back to take all the tension off the chains, and ultimately the cam shafts, but never had any luck. Even bought the special tool. There isn't enough room, at least for me, to get in there and lock back the tensioner, not without putting it in service position, and for what the labor pays, usually I go ahead and suggest doing a set of chains if car is near or over 100,000 miles.



****Here's a naughty little secret*****

If you just remove the cam bridge you can very slowly and evenly remove the cam cover, clean everything up, and very slowly, I mean like it takes a good 15 minutes, going a 1 rotation a screw, then moving to another screw until that one has just a bit of tension, until it pulls everything back down. You have to make sure all the rockers are seated, and if you do it wrong enough, you can crack a camshaft. DON"T do it this way....but Ive been told by a friend it works just fine.

Dont forget to put some oil on the cam bearings and cam lobes. I prefer to use assembly lube as it sticks...just gives me a little more warm and fuzzy, and make sure you slowly rotate the engine over after the valve cover is torqued, listening for bad noises and feeling for anything that might be binding.

Zip-tie the cams down through holes in the head with beefy 1/4" wide ties. This can be done when you pull the PCV/Oil separator. That way, the back of the cams don't lift when you pull the cover off. Wish I had used hondabond when I did my instead of the anerobic stuff.

[Theiceman]

when I did the heads on my porsche I did one side in loctite 574. the other side I did yamabond. neither side leak so far...

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