2016 S7 Brakes DIY

[01cutop]

I'm due for new brakes, but I really don't want to pay a shop to do something I can do. I've changed the brakes (pads/rotors) on Fords many times and I think I have all the tools needed for an Audi, but I wanted to check here first. Are there any specials tools I need? Is there a list posted anywhere of what tools I should have? I've watched a few videos online of others replacing their C7 brake pads and it seems a little more complicated than a Ford so I'm asking for recommended sites/videos you have watched to help you change yours because I haven't found one with enough of the process to make me feel comfortable.

Currently, when I engage/disengage the parking break it makes what I can best describe as a quick 'squeaking sound' in the rear and I'm not sure what is causing this...does anyone know what I'm talking about? Does something else need changed when I change the brakes to correct this issue?

As for the pads/rotors, I'm honestly tired of the brake dust and would like to get ceramic. I don't hot rod it much anymore and my wife drives the car more back and forth to work (keeping the miles low-62k miles) so they don't need to be high performance or anything, just good enough for daily driving.

The brake sensor came on a few months ago, but there was plenty of pad left. When I change the brakes, is there a sensor that needs changed as well so this notification goes away?

Thanks in advance for your assistance, just need a little guidance in the right direction before tackling this project and saving myself some $$$$!!

[Audibot]

If you were closer I'd be willing to help out. That said, I don't think it's really much more complicated than other brakes, minus a couple extra parts and the spring clip for the pads. I just took my time and figured it out. Each caliper has 6 pistons, so either bleeding out fluid first or opening the bleed value when pushing them back in would be the way to go.

Your noise may be the rear pads are done. Or any lubrication is gone. Given that you have a brake pad sensor light, it could be that too. Once the light comes on, I think you have to replace the wear sensor.

I hear good things about Hawk pads--I forget offhand which ones are lower dusting ones. Some folks recommend EBC Redstuff, but I find them to be dustier. Akebono is another solid ceramic pad recommendation.

Discs will probably be the most expensive item there. If you don't specifically care about them being 2-piece, you could check out Brake Performance's coated discs. They're good quality and cost less per pair than you'd get with a Zimmermann or OE. Don't get the pads; they are garbage. (Audizine members used to get a discount but idk if they still do)


I think you will need the following tools:

Jack/lift
1/2" breaker bar
11mm flare nut or box wrench (brake bleeder screw)
17mm socket (wheel lugs)
21mm socket (caliper bolts to upright)
Brake caliper hanger hook(s) - Amazon has some decent ones cheap
Bleeder, whether power, vacuum, or a person
Fluid catching device (to remove old fluid and bleed)
Brake grease (lubricate the sliding surfaces--careful not to get any on discs/pads)
Brakleen, acetone, or mineral spirits (clean off oil coating on discs, if applicable)
Towels (for the above and it's dirty)
Gloves (see above)

The following parts:
Brake discs (directional)
Brake pads (2x per caliper; wear sensor is inboard side and top)
Rattle clips (6x per caliper; can reuse old ones if you razor them off or buy a new set from RockAuto: ÜRO PARTS 99635208602 Brake Pad Shim Kit)
Brake Fluid.
Brake pad wear sensor (I got one cheap from NAPA when mine crumbled in my hands)

- - - Updated - - -

Oh, and this page has some good exploded diagrams to check out: https://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...6-Caliper-Bolt

[Valpo A7]

If they S brakes are like the A brakes then you will need VCDS or OBD11 to release the e-brake if you have to do rear pads.

While doing a brake fluid flush is a good idea it is not required to perform when changing pads. Every 2 years to perform the fluid exchange is the book answer to doing that work however as long as you are not tracking the car and trying to bake the brakes you can it far less frequently (if at all). I do not track any of my cars and I do not drive them hard either, I have not changed fluid and never had an issue from it. That being said, its still not a bad idea to actually do it.

[Audibot]

To paraphrase Customer Says What, if your brake fluid looks like Shrek piss, you're overdue.

[caelric]

If they S brakes are like the A brakes then you will need VCDS or OBD11 to release the e-brake if you have to do rear pads.

there is a way to do it manually; couple of YT videos show how. it is easier to do it via VCDS or OBD11, but doing it manually is not all that hard.

Once the light comes on, I think you have to replace the wear sensor.

yes; if the light comes on, you need to change the sensors, or the light will stay on. the sensor is a wear item; when the brake pad is too thin, it wears through the sensor, opening the circuit, and causing the light to come on.

[IceyTys]

As others have said, its a pretty straight forward job, if you've done other brakes than you can easily do these.

Need a tool (ODB11 or Vagcom) for the rears and yes, if you wore them down the the sensors, you will need new sensors. There is one for the front and one for the back if I remember correctly (not 4).

I used Powerstop z23 pads the last time I did the brakes on the fronts and EBC redstuff on the rears. The power stops are the way to go....virtually no dust. Next brake change I am doing the z23 or z26 pads all around.

[Botbasher]

There is one for the front and one for the back if I remember correctly (not 4).

Correct... Driver side for both! They just unclip and push into the new normally, but since the light is on, as previously mentioned, you'll need new ones. Get both as the light is the same for either and you can tell until you take them apart!

Cheers,

KS

[01cutop]

Ok, I just did the fronts/rears on my Ford Edge Monday and it’s very easy to do so I’m very capable of doing brakes.

As for needing an OBD11, I do have one, but the basic version.* Do I need the paid version to do what you’re talking about? Are there instructions anywhere of what I’m assuming you’re talking using the OBD11 for releasing the parking brake within the app?* Is that what you’re meaning by needing an OBD11?

I have a kit for compressing the electronic parking brakes that I use for my Edge, that won’t work with Audi?

When you talk about the sensors, where would be the best place to get those?* Not the dealer right?* The stealership always cranks up the prices for parts lol.* Gotcha about needing 2 sensors (1 for the front/1 for the rear) and not 4 which I would have assumed so thank you.

Thanks for the recommendation about which brakes/pads to get.* I use Rock Auto for my Ford, is that laughable and/or a horrible idea being an Audi? I know a lot of Audi owners think they need the most expensive parts and yada yada…hell I got my RS7 grill and blacked out emblems off eBay and never had an issue with anything so I’m good with saving $$ using a site like eBay.* If Rock Auto isn’t a good idea, do you recommend a reliable site?

Thanks so much for your replay and information.* I’m a few months behind responding but I do appreciate all of your info!!

[01cutop]

Thanks so much for taking the time to explain everything, offer to assist if you were close by, give me your input/tools required, etc.* I’m a few months behind responding, but I’m about to tackle this within the month and trying to get my ducks in a row before I get in there and need something I don’t have.

I removed my oil screen during covid, took me 3 days, but that was the deepest I’ve ever went into any car in my life and I was successful so I feel capable about doing these Audi brakes…just worried about the being able to remove the Brake icon on my dash once they are changed, correct the squealing noise when I engage/disengage the parking brake every day after replacement by missing step, getting the electronic parking brake to release so that I can get the caliper to go back on over the rotor, etc as you stated there are 6 pistons.* I have a kit (https://www.walmart.com/ip/Biltek-13...-New/185679487) that I use for my Edge and it works like a champ when compressing the electronic parking brake, will something like this work for the 6 pistons so that I don’t have to bleed to brake fluid line?




I saw you referenced Rock Auto in your post…is that not recommended for getting a rotor/pads/etc package like I have for my Ford?

Thanks again for all of the information…honestly, greatly appreciated!!

[01cutop]

Does the free version of OBD11 do this or do I need the paid version? Are there instructions anywhere?

[westcoastrs7]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C9AcboaVGzY

[01cutop]

Is getting the sensors online pretty easy? Any recommended site for getting them online? I just want to make sure I have everything before getting in there. Thx

[Valpo A7]

Brake pad sensors?

You can buy them from the dealer or online Audi sites for $20 - 30 each or you can go down to Advance Auto and get them for about $10 each. You will need 1 for the front and 1 for the back.

[01cutop]

Good to know, thx a lot! I visit advanced auto quite often so I'll swing by there and grab 2.

[Valpo A7]

They may not have them in stock but can get in less than 24 - 48 hours typically. Depends on if they have them at the warehouse or nearby.

[01cutop]

Okay, just ordered the two brake pad sensors.

A set of pads for both fronts/rears.

I have an OBD11

My Brake fluid has been changed about 2 yrs ago, worth having some extra on hand?

I guess my last question is do I need rattle clips? Do they come with the pads? Power Stop Z23-1547 Rear Z23 Evolution Sport Carbon Fiber Infused Ceramic Brake Pads with Hardware https://a.co/d/14yvHaF

Am I missing anything?