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  1. #1
    Veteran Member Three Rings wafi ahmed's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 03 2019
    AZ Member #
    449642
    Location
    Ny Long Island

    Fan control module or fan it self?

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    So I went to another country for 3 months for family event and while I was away I left my car in the driveway for 3 months. Ever since i came back I’ve been having electrical issues like alarm going off randomly, rear defroster not working and worse of all is the radiator fan not running.

    I already checked the ecu box I’ve replaced the ecu box it self two years ago and it was nice and dry.

    For now I unplugged the alarm and just don’t use the rear defroster but the fan is getting little annoying as I can’t idle for too long without over heating.

    I’ve applied direct 12v to FCM and the fun does not come on i don’t want to cut the wires to fans until i know it’s the control module or fan it self.

    I also did output test with VCDS and fan did it come on. I would assume maybe the relay is bad but the fact that even after giving direct power fan didn’t come off now I’m certain it’s either fan control module or fan it self. In this case which one should I say is bad?

    I also have code for lower coolant temperature sensor G83 I already have the new sensor and code P1672 coolant can’t control 1 - open or short to ground.


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  2. #2
    Veteran Member Four Rings Gin+'s Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 16 2015
    AZ Member #
    327575
    Location
    CNY Syracuse

    i don’t want to cut the wires to fans until i know it’s the control module or fan it self
    I know this is a week old, but either way you'll be cutting wires if my memory serves me right.
    They're not scared of you. They're scared of what you represent to 'em.

  3. #3
    Established Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    Nov 30 2023
    AZ Member #
    972306
    Location
    Munich

    Quote Originally Posted by wafi ahmed View Post
    IMG_1324.jpg
    So I went to another country for 3 months for family event and while I was away I left my car in the driveway for 3 months. Ever since i came back I’ve been having electrical issues like alarm going off randomly, rear defroster not working and worse of all is the radiator fan not running.

    I already checked the ecu box I’ve replaced the ecu box it self two years ago and it was nice and dry.

    For now I unplugged the alarm and just don’t use the rear defroster but the fan is getting little annoying as I can’t idle for too long without over heating.

    I’ve applied direct 12v to FCM and the fun does not come on i don’t want to cut the wires to fans until i know it’s the control module or fan it self.

    I also did output test with VCDS and fan did it come on. I would assume maybe the relay is bad but the fact that even after giving direct power fan didn’t come off now I’m certain it’s either fan control module or fan it self. In this case which one should I say is bad?

    I also have code for lower coolant temperature sensor G83 I already have the new sensor and code P1672 coolant can’t control 1 - open or short to ground.


    Sent from my iPhone using Audizine Forum
    In my experience, I'd suggest tackling the lower coolant temperature sensor issue first. A faulty sensor sensor can lead to irregularities in the fan operation. Swap it out and see if anything gets better.
    If the problem persists, then you can start looking more into the fan control module.

  4. #4
    Veteran Member Three Rings
    Join Date
    Jan 18 2010
    AZ Member #
    53548
    My Garage
    13 S5 QM, 02 1.8T QM (killed by diesel 4x4), 03 1.8T QM, 84 AE 300ZX Turbo, 65 Ford Galaxie Conv
    Location
    Fort Worth, TX

    Does the fan work when you turn the A/C on? To my understanding, it should turn on regardless of the status of the temp sensors. Someone can correct me if wrong.

    When I went through this, I applied 12V to the fans after the FCM to verify they worked. I must admit, I don't remember where. I think I pealed the insulation on the wires after the FCM. Fans worked and I replaced the FCM and all's been well for 6 years.

  5. #5
    Veteran Member Four Rings Gunnarrrrr's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 25 2015
    AZ Member #
    322635
    My Garage
    cars, wheels, cars with wheels
    Location
    Placer County

    I went through this not long ago. but yes deal with your temp sensor first. Then:

    I thought my module was the issue. I replaced it, same problems. I then went to check on my fans and one of them was totally seized up and wouldn't spin. upon removal I noticed it was full of corrosion and dirt in the motor. That was the issue.

    I didn't want to go through cutting and splicing wires again, so I pulled a whole fan control module with both fans attached (with the little plastic frame that bolts to the radiator support) from a donor car with all wires intact. Probably cost me like $60.

    so basically, check your fans. I was getting a code for the fan control module even with the new module, the fan itself was causing the code.
    B9 SQ5 Mythos X Magma - 034 stg2
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    2005 B6 S4 4.2L 6MT

  6. #6
    Veteran Member Three Rings wafi ahmed's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 03 2019
    AZ Member #
    449642
    Location
    Ny Long Island

    I’m out of the country for few months so I won’t be able to check right away but I’ll make sure I do when I’m back


    Sent from my iPhone using Audizine Forum

  7. #7
    Established Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    Apr 13 2017
    AZ Member #
    397722
    My Garage
    2003 A4 6MTQ 3.0, 2005 A4 FWD 1.8T
    Location
    Dallas, Tx

    When I went through this issue, I found the problem was the fan fuse under the knee board. For a US car you have to remove the knee board to get at it. At first I looked at the fuse and it looked ok and then disregarded. After replacing the FCM and running out of electrical tests to do, I went back took another look at the fuse. It still looked fine, but this time I actually tested it with a test light and it was bad. I replaced and the fan started working again. This is a special fuse for the fans, its not in your fuse boxes or near relays. Its physically under the dash. Before going any further, check it because its easier than any of your other options.

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