B&O Subwoofer upgrade?

[agentsmith988]

I've got a 2015 S3 with the B&O sound system. I wanted to see if anyone on here had swapped out the subwoofer on the rear shelf. Ideally I'd like to swap it and use the existing enclosure with a low profile subwoofer to keep it as OEM as possible.

I'm not looking for anything crazy bass wise.. I just hate how you can hear the B&O woofer move when it's hitting harder. Has anyone been successful in dropping something like a SWS woofer in?

I've seen a few of the other threads about audio upgrades but I don't want something taking up additional trunk space or sticking out a crazy amount from the shelf.

[S3DAN]

check out crutchfield.com you can put your car in and see all the compatible stuff and also free expert tech support to make sure you get the right setup

[R.Cade]

What you might be hearing is the rear deck and it's cover rattling. I did a sub upgrade in the rear deck of an A5 and it required adding Dynomat or something similar like this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KZ5X7KO/ to add mass and dampening to the rear shelf. I would add it to the top (under the cover) and bottom of the deck.

[agentsmith988]

Update: I went ahead and took a leap and swapped the B&O subwoofer for a 10" Pioneer TS-A2500LS4. I created a mount out of a few layers of MDF to fit in the OEM spot. I'm still using the factory amp but man it kicks! I don't have any plans on switching to an aftermarket amp. The Pioneer is single voice coil so I have it wired to the factory harness in parallel.

The B&O sub would make a terrible noise under heavy load as it hit its limit. The Pioneer just goooooes. Not bad for ~$120 all in!

[949]

nice to see an audio upgrade.

i have also the subwoofer in mind to work on. just waiting to get some tools that i need to work on the project myself.

[Lotusland]

Did the upgrade and dynomatted the complete rear shelf as well - - sounds excellent

[sleepy_rs3]

Thank you guys for sharing this, it seems like an awesome upgrade. Do you guys have any photos or can you provide some more info on the mount you had to make?

[Lotusland]

Just dropped in - tightened down with nuts and bolts - dynomat sealed the speaker to the deck. You may depending on the speaker have to build up the matting - with the Rockford it just fit snug.

[agentsmith988]

Just dropped in - tightened down with nuts and bolts - dynomat sealed the speaker to the deck. You may depending on the speaker have to build up the matting - with the Rockford it just fit snug.

Which Rockford sub did you use?

[Lotusland]

Rock R2D4-10 Prime R2 DVC 4 ohm 250 RMS 500 peak $130 on Amazon - it pounds pretty good - brings the B&O to life - purchased the Noico 80 mill sound deadener for $35 and the roller wheels for $20 for install so for under $200 CAN $ your all set. I payed pre inflation pricing as I did this in 2021 for considerably less.

[cmains78]

How terrible was it to pull the rear deck? Do the rear pillars need to come out? Any messing with airbags? I sound deadened the trunk lid from the bottom side, but that did nothing to help with an increase in bass. Looking for a drop-in to use with the factory amp just like the above pics! Thanks!

[agentsmith988]

Thank you guys for sharing this, it seems like an awesome upgrade. Do you guys have any photos or can you provide some more info on the mount you had to make?

I just used a piece of cardboard to trace the hole in the rear deck and bolt locations then stenciled it onto a sheet of MDF. Then I used the stencil included with the subwoofer to cut another bit of MDF to layer on top.

Rock R2D4-10 Prime R2 DVC 4 ohm 250 RMS 500 peak $130 on Amazon - it pounds pretty good - brings the B&O to life - purchased the Noico 80 mill sound deadener for $35 and the roller wheels for $20 for install so for under $200 CAN $ your all set. I payed pre inflation pricing as I did this in 2021 for considerably less.

I'm surprised that subwoofer works in a free-air install. I originally tried a Kicker CompRT subwoofer that wasn't designated as free-air and it barely made any difference when I had it plugged in. That's why I switched to the Pioneer TS-A2500LS4.

How terrible was it to pull the rear deck? Do the rear pillars need to come out? Any messing with airbags? I sound deadened the trunk lid from the bottom side, but that did nothing to help with an increase in bass. Looking for a drop-in to use with the factory amp just like the above pics! Thanks!

Super easy if you have some tips. I used the below video to figure out how to remove the pillars and rear deck. I can take everything out in a couple of minutes now. No messing with airbags.

[dshonwood]

Update: I went ahead and took a leap and swapped the B&O subwoofer for a 10" Pioneer TS-A2500LS4. I created a mount out of a few layers of MDF to fit in the OEM spot. I'm still using the factory amp but man it kicks! I don't have any plans on switching to an aftermarket amp. The Pioneer is single voice coil so I have it wired to the factory harness in parallel.

The B&O sub would make a terrible noise under heavy load as it hit its limit. The Pioneer just goooooes. Not bad for ~$120 all in!

How did you wire the new 4 ohm speaker to what used to be 8 ohms?

[agentsmith988]

How did you wire the new 4 ohm speaker to what used to be 8 ohms?

I know it's not ideal but I planned on replacing the factory amp if it failed/overheated running in this configuration. A bit over a year later the factory amp is still going without issue.

[949]

nice.

there have been some new items that works now with the stock system. basically you would need the base navtv zen v or the mobridge unit to get a clean signal. mobride is the newer of the two options we can now use. dedicated for when we remove the stock amp. from there you can add any amp you desire and it will sound amazing. they make the install simpler by nature. instead of using high conversion mods.

but if your amp blows then you would need to get one of these two items anyway.