Fuel Pump <only> Replacement Vs. Complete Module

[DPDISXR4Ti]

With 22 years and 165K miles on my car's original pump, I'm thinking I should preventatively replace it. Looking at the available pumps, it would seem the only thing offered is the complete module assembly unless going with a bigger volume pump. But can't you replace JUST the pump? I messed around with a B7 pump module in the junkyard the other day and was able to remove just the pump with a little creatively. Is that not possible with the B6 module?

[EuroxS4]

why bother? Change the whole unit as call it a day.

[VinnysS4]

I've changed both the b6 and b7 fuel pumps in the basket. Its possible.

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[DPDISXR4Ti]

why bother? Change the whole unit as call it a day.

Fair point. But if I could put the money into a "better" pump rather than a bunch of stuff that doesn't need changing, why not?

[DPDISXR4Ti]

I've changed both the b6 and b7 fuel pumps in the basket. Its possible.

What are you using for replacement pumps? Are the B6 and B7 pumps actually the same? I realize if you get the entire module they're different, but wondering if just the pumps are the same.

[VinnysS4]

I have used Walbro 255lph pumps, Racetronix, Evil Energy, and some generic cheapo amazon 255lph pumps. They all seem to work about the same, but i would spend the extra few dollars to get a decent one like a genuine Walbro or Racetronix.
The physical pumps seem to be about the same. Some have 2 outlets(b7 A4 fsi, rs4...) but the b6 is a pretty simple pump. The one thing you'll want to make sure of is to be gentle with the hoses and flexible lines on the pump. You may have to reuse one of them. Get the oem style crimp hose clamps. Those will hold forever.
I just did one of these on my b6 A4 3.0 recently. Its pretty strait forward.
When you remove the b6 pump, you'll either need 2 longer screw drivers or 2 longer pry bars to spin the top pump lock to remove the pump from the tank.
Hope this helps

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[Puddin Tane]

When you remove the b6 pump, you'll either need 2 longer screw drivers or 2 longer pry bars to spin the top pump lock to remove the pump from the tank.

No ferrous metal (unless your name is MacGruber)

[VinnysS4]

No ferrous metal (unless your name is MacGruber)

If you're talking about removing the metal pump top hat locking ring, yeah you would want to use something that wont cause sparks if you're hitting it with a hammer. A brass or aluminum punch is good on those. I'm talking about the top half of the fuel pump assembly. It is plastic and spins and locks in the tank. No reason to use non ferrous on that.

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[EuroxS4]

All pumps need to be changed sooner or later there is no one and done solution. Walbro pumps fail just like oem ones do.Your choice.

[DPDISXR4Ti]

Thanks for the input. As to the removal, I've done that before on another B6 I used to take care of - here's a good thread on that (even if some of the links and images are now dead)....

https://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...highlight=pump

[Protection]

For $40 I would recommend getting the special tool for locking and unlocking the fuel pump into the bottom of the tank. It is already an unpleasant job, breathing in fumes while you deal with removing and installing the pump; anything that speeds up the process or makes it easier is $$ well spent in my book.


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[Turbo510]

Since the OP is doing this job proactively, run your tank to near empty first. Buy or get loaned a fuel connector plier, otherwise those connectors can be frustrating. The "crossed bars" method works fine; however, I did use Aluminum to be sure of no accidental sparks. Pay attention to the alignment marks on the tank retainer, and on the pump basket. With a 15-degree clockwise turn, the basket's mark will line up with the appropriate "lock" mark. Final thing is to make sure the fuel return hose fits into a funnel-shaped recess in the tank retainer, to avoid gauge float interference.

[EuroxS4]

Just put this setup in.







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[VinnysS4]

Just put this setup in.







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How much fuel? All of it. Haha

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[EuroxS4]

How much fuel? All of it. Haha

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LOL exactly. Dual Walbro450's.

[DPDISXR4Ti]

LOL exactly. Dual Walbro450's.

All of it, RIGHT NOW! :)

Who's product is that? It looks like it might make R&R pretty easy. I'm wondering if they make a version that's more "ease of service" focused than "all of the fuel".

[EuroxS4]

All of it, RIGHT NOW! :)

Who's product is that? It looks like it might make R&R pretty easy. I'm wondering if they make a version that's more "ease of service" focused than "all of the fuel".

Made by SRM.

[canonball]

I have to say I'm with EuroxS4 on this. Unless you're planning on, or already have, some heavy mods and feel that a more heavy duty or bigger pump is necessary I think you're better off just replacing the whole unit and having peace of mind that the whole unit is good for another 150,000 miles or so. Then you know all the lines and everything are new as well. It's your car so it's your car, but my $0.02 (since you're in there pulling the whole unit anyway) is just replacing the whole thing.

In any case, hope you get it figured out and look forward to seeing what you come up with. Cheers!

[Turbo510]

Just be sure that you have at least a German VDO or equivalent, if staying with the stock arrangement. I made a major mistake with my B5; installed a Chinese POS that looked fine, but quit without warning on a freeway with no emergency parking lane.

[EuroxS4]

VDO is factory oem. I would recommend VDO or pierburg.