Picking up a 2001 TT 6speed Quattro 225 AMU

[sQ5inSD]

just snagged a very clean 2001 225hp with 6MT (and only 88k miles!) after moving to Las Cruces, NM so I was also a bit let down to see so few posts - I am also on the B8.5 forum for my 3.0T Q5 and there is a ton of activity so I will try to spice up this Mk1 forum with my TT's journey from stock to hopefully north of 250 hp along with brake and suspension mods...

[Seal1968]

Thanks for tuning in gents...will get back on track hopefully this weekend if it warms up. We just got a cold snap this week, but its good to see others taking interest. I'm feeling inspired lol

[Seal1968]

OK, sorted the coil wiring finally. Decided to do a compression test as the misfires are only there at idle, and she does burn some oil.

Cylinder 1: 150/160
Cylinder 2: 150/160
Cylinder 3: 150/160
Cylinder 4: 50/60

Wet test...cylinder 4 gets to 150, then drops each time you run the test again as the oil blows by.

Fuck. My money is on burnt exhaust valves and rings....and she needs a rebuild.

Now I got to decide...keep her and dive in with $$ or ditch her. Sonofabitch.

Any ideas on cost of an AMU rebuild these days gents?

Probably be smart to refresh the turbo "while you're in there...." as well.

[Seal1968]

Going to try another piston soak for the next few days for cylinder 4...could it be stuck rings/gummed up valves? These cars are known for heavy sludge, etc...will give it a try since I have the chemicals on hand.

What the hell...its a hail Mary last ditch effort before I make a decision to rip her apart.

[Portlandareae28]

I like your style! hail mary before giving in!! Still a great car if you work through it in my opinion!

I have this very blurred vision of an RS America/Outlaw mkI Tt.. not sure what that blur becomes yet, but I have a 2.0 stroked 1.8t A4 that I am going to unbuild to maximize a k04 hybrid, stock cat, stock manifolds, 100% readiness, as stock visually as possible outlaw smoggable setup that I can. not chasing race car power, but chasing more smoggable daily power…. and use that setup as a guide to an Outlaw/RS America/R-gruppe style TT build…. what else can one get in a kickass coupe sportscar, awd, buildability “drivers” car.. I am not chasing street racing, but a fun canyon, refined weekend with the wife at the beach car that makes car guys like us look at it closely and see the bits and pieces that set it apart….

good luck understanding all of that craziness, my mind can be a little chaotic.. but if you have a TT in the garage even if you have to dig into that engine, what else is out there that checks all the boxes in this $$$ range???


Sent from my iPhone using Audizine Forum

[Seal1968]

Hail Mary is an understatement lol.

Going to try an old engine builder/restorers trick for stuck rings...1 litre Marvel Mystery Oil + fresh synthetic oil and run it like I stole it for a few days and retest. See what happens.

Doubt anything will improve but these cars are well known for sludge and carbon build up, so what the heck I have some MMO on the workbench. Anecdotally it apparently works on dissolving carbon on rings and helps valve seals/guides. Could be snake oil claims, but its been used for years by the old boys out there.

One thing it will do is flush the engine out and make it ready for work, so that's a plus.

Stay tuned.

[Spinnetti]

Bummer... we used to call that an Italian tune up. Hope it works! Junkyard motors should be cheap... build up a spare?

[Seal1968]

Winter came back, so I've not been working on her as of late. I spoke to a local VW/Audi shop and they said they have not seen these cars with ring problems, more so it could just be a burnt exhaust valve, or the rings are actually stuck/gummed up. They suggested a leakdown test.

I'm going old school as noted with MMO and ATF to try and flush her out. Will let the MMO/ATF mixture sit for a few days in cylinder 4 with the plug out, then use the rest to clean out the crankcase. Give her a few miles with this mixture and change the filter/oil.

If anything it'll loosen all the gunk in there and get it ready for a teardown - this has been done for years by mechanics from what I've read. My brother who's been a mechanic for 30 years said that he's used diesel in the cylinders to free up seized engines as well. Sometimes you've got to get dirty lol.

Will retest the compression after to see if any improvement.

[Seal1968]

UPDATE:

Been doing the full soak this week...turning the crank over and adding more to the cylinder with plugs out. I'm using MMO, Acetone and Seafoam Deep Creep in rotation...the oil will be nasty when I drain her Saturday. I figured this is a "hail Mary" so why not pull out all the stops lol.

I'm doubtful this will work, but worth a shot given these are cheap chemicals to obtain.

I think I can get ahold of a borescope to take a look at the valves once flushed out. Stay tuned.

[Seal1968]

Soak done, oil drained and fresh synthetic and filter on. Still misfiring...not quite as bad, but that could be a placebo effect I'm feeling.

Going to try and get a borescope...I think it has to be the rings. A wet test was done with a cap full of oil in the cylinder and tested and there was improved compression, then as then oil blows by the rings it fails again after 4 cranks.

I can't see the compression ring still being stuck in the groove, especially after what I threw at her: MMO, acetone, Seafoam Deep Creep and diesel.

Damn...

[Spinnetti]

Bummer. Junkyard motor swap?

[Seal1968]

Might be an option...if it's rings, the motor comes out anyway. A full rebuild is @ $4K here that I've been quoted.

I asked on the B6 forum, and they are gung-ho to tackle on your own, but I don't have the tools or skill. I might search around, you can transfer the goodies done to a donor engine, just need one with damn good compression lol.

I hate feeling beaten by a car...not sure I'm ready to throw in the towel just yet.

[Spinnetti]

I'm with you - you've done so much you can't throw in the towel now! Prolly can get a junkyard motor for $400-500? Assembling an engine is easy - machine shop has to do the real work for that anyway

[Seal1968]

Cheapest engine I've seen around here is $3K...well, it's in a rolled coupe, but does have lots of updates and goodies. Problem is, it's 7 hours away.

I reached out to some well known breaker yards but no response. Another FB user who is an Audi Technician said he can do it...looking at $3500 re and re with a used engine.

I wonder what shipping from USA to Ontario Canada costs...might be cheaper even with exchange. Still investigating.

[Seal1968]

Update: listed her for sale to see if I get any interest. Have not had any luck sourcing a good used engine...prices are nuts right now. Might have to bite the bullet and get the engine pulled and rebuilt/partially rebuilt. A bit frustrated. Oh well, tits or tires....

[easyAudi]

Is a US-based junkyard or shipper an option? ...depending on where in Ontario you're located, maybe Detroit salvage yards are an option? Especially if you happen to be closer to Windsor.. ( but I have no clue on customs $$ for a uPull junkyard engine, or shipping $$ from a disassembler..)

If Detroit is an option, there's an '02 TT at Parts Galore salvage...maybe $350 if you pull it yourself (VIN: TRUWC28N921024653)
Prices: https://parts-galore.com/parts-price-list/
inventory: https://parts-galore.com/
....but is a gamble as you can't tell condition until you're there, and likely won't know mileage. (unless the ECU + dash is still there and you bring a jumpbox)
Engine was complete and still there a few weeks ago.

..and just in case you haven't yet scoured car-part.com to ship one to you.. it searches disassemblers by distance, some show prices, for engines, many require a call.

Boroscope: surprisingly, I just learned they're a free rental from Autozone in the US. Not great quality, perhaps good enough..in case there's the equivalent up your way.

[Seal1968]

Still investigating options...

[Seal1968]

Sorry gents, been weighing options for this car. I listed her, lots of tire kickers but no joy. Have decided that I will fix her...can't sell her not running right.

Good news is, I found a local German car guy to do the job. He's a VW freak and 1.8L guy, so when I asked him labour-wise only @ $500 cash plus parts and he can do it in a weekend. That is 1/4 what other shops have quoted me. Score one for me.

Game plan is to find a good short block, swap out all the new parts from my engine, install new gaskets, etc. and get her running right.

Stay tuned for updates!

[Seal1968]

UPDATE: Did a bore scope on cylinder 4...a chunk of the piston is gone and the cylinder walls are really scarred up. Looks like these are not fresh gouges, so my guess is the previous owner was running her on 3 cylinders for a while. The scoring looks "sanded down" for lack of a better word. Valves look ok, so might have dodged that bullet...engine doesn't tick or anything

Anyway, the hunt for a good used head is on. Stay tuned.

[Seal1968]

Found a good donor engine to swap the bad block with and should start tearing down in the next couple of weeks...stay tuned if anyone is watching lol. I might be losing my mind to even bother reporting back here.

Wow, so dead is this forum.

Very sad.

[Rich in Boston]

Interesting read! Hope you get to the finish line! I am looking at a 2002 TT MK1 this weekend with 160K miles that is owned by an enthusiast and was meticulously maintained. It's got that baseball leather interior which I just love, and it's a stick!

[Spinnetti]

Seal, stick with it! Remember you are in it for the joy of doing :).

Sounds like a great find Rich! We'd like one like that too.

After a detour of restoring a 2000 Lexus LS400 to almost like new, I'm back on the TT. <Deep Breath>.. I totally removed the SAI stuff, then the N249 stuff and got all new lines for all the breather and PCV stuff (awaiting parts arrival) and replacing pretty much anything rubber under the hood. This thing was serviced and cared for terribly, but still starts up instantly and runs great, but will need a couple gallons of sea foam run through it. Turbo not bolted to the manifold properly, so that's next on the list, then with the 30 odd vacuum and exhaust leaks fixed, time for a timing belt service.

Any good sources for a replacement front bumper cover? Seems like every one of these things has a broken nose.

[Seal1968]

Morning gents, sorry for the delay in replying.

My friend sourced an engine for $600 and pulled the whole cradle last Saturday...started at 8 in the morning and had it out by noon. When the head came off you can see a few large gouges in the cylinder 4 walls, and she was run this way for a while as they were not "sharp" or "fresh" looking if you know what I mean. No hole as I thought originally in the piston...must have been a burn mark from misfiring I saw when I scoped her. He swapped block and reinstalled my head. Valves were really heavily carboned up...assume a hunk came off one and that was the culprit. Timing belt and waterpump came over too along with a new rear seal, head studs, thermostat and full head gasket kit and all of the new parts I installed on the engine. Funny story...the shop that did the timing belt for the previous owner put it on backwards...these belts are directional and the inside was on the outside. Geez sloppy, ESPECIALLY for a Porsche/Audi Indy shop. Quality has gone down there for sure.

Engine et all all reinstalled and fresh alignment done...amazing enough, no leaks! I say that because the power steering lines looked really dusty lol. My buddy did a great job.

All I can say is WOW...it was peppy before on 3 cylinders, but with all 4 at good compression and on boost, this is a quick little car!

Anyway, all in with 16 hours labour and parts/fluids it was $1980, which is less than half what I was quoted.

Now, what to do with her?

Well, I already decided to sell her when I got her running right. I lost faith in the car...there's still much more to do to get her right and my heart wasn't in it any longer. So, I listed her locally, and the first guy came and bought the car...he was the perfect buyer as he already owned 2 TTs of the same vintage.

PLUS, this summer I saw a great deal and bought another toy that I couldn't resist to replace her...a 2007 Cayman 2.7 with 5 speed manual. MINT, low kms, no issues whatsoever and full dealer service history and great price. These ones have the updated IMS bearing and don't have the bore scoring issues like the 3.4 unless you track them hard. This car was a garage queen and owned by an anal retentive owner. I've been enjoying this beauty with EVERYTHING working lol. Only flaw is crappy factory speakers...which I shall remedy soon.

Anyway, thanks for tuning in and the support.

Cheers!

[sQ5inSD]

vwvortex has more activity for the TT platform but looks like you sold yours so Adios Amigo!

[Spinnetti]

Later Seal! I casually looked at the 2009 and newer cayman (no IMS), but after selling our TT, I'm shopping for a couple more lol. A 3.2 DSG for the kid (she's too short to drive a manual) and a TT225 for me to replace my GR Corolla.

[mizzenmast]

OK, my first ECS Tuning order arrived.

Valve cover gasket kit, PCV valve, plugs, coils. Moved the secondary air stuff - pulled diverter valve hose, undid all the connectors and flipped aside. Removed the charge tube. Damned 6 mil bolts holding the charge pipe bracket were rusted and rounded. Used a bolt extractor to remove. Snapped one off, the other came loose. What a PITA. Valve cover came off pretty easy...the kit came with the tensioner tool, so dialed that in and took out the 4 torx 30 nuts...that donut was toast...seepage everywhere. Lining up that tensioner gasket was also a pain and I had to remove the bracket on the corner of the head that holds vacuum lines so I could get in there. The gasket came off in 3 pieces...lots of gunk on the back...guess where it was leaking? Cleaned it all up with brake cleaner and a rag.

Put RTV in all 4 corners as recommended...lined her up and dropped the cover back on. Gave the cover a good scrub with a brush and Gunk to clean it up first.

Coil wire plugs need replacing...all are in crappy condition. Had to reuse for the time being, but really folks you can't change them without breaking them? Lots of misfires recorded in VCDS of course. The 2nd ground wire for the coils was not attached and melted...fixed that. Previous owner said he put all new plugs in before I bought her...nope, total BS. They were black and the electrodes were burnt to a fine point. Definitely been in there a while...Densos. Got some NGK coppers for time being. Replaced the coil packs with Beru factory for now as I didn't want to wait for the 2.0 conversion kit.

Replaced the PCV valve (was original) and buttoned her up. All in a couple of hours and a couple of cappuccinos of farting around...the seized charge pipe bracket was the biggest time waster, then lining up the tensioner gasket was 2nd.

Fired her up, ran much smoother, but still a little bit of misfiring...must be the coil plugs as they are toast. Got an intermittent knock sensor code...either connector is dirty or need to replace. Next time.

Took her for a run, and she pulls better...I think I will invest in some new Beru coil plugs shortly as I can't stand CELs.

Almost forgot, removed the CAI and put the factory airbox along with a K & N filter...much better. Not sucking in hot air any more from the engine bay...the kit was a budget CAI...not a fan.

Im just getting around to tackling my project all original 2004 225. BEA. Ill be posting more later on that
Quick reply on the coil pack connectors.... I just watched university tube and bought the depinning tools on amazon for under 10 and successfully removed the pins and put them back in on my oil pan sensor. I had to remove the connector so I could pull my wire out of the engine before I pulled it, the connector was too big to fit through the opening between the block and transfer case.
I have 2 coil pack connectors that have broken tabs so I have ordered replacement and will depinning and putting them back into the new connectors. I liked that approach as opposed to cutting and splicing.