Audio question for LC2i

[turbosharef]

Hi, I have had my sub installed now for about a month and a half and I want to make some changes to the rca connection for the line output converter specifically. Some songs the bass sounds amazing and others its terrible.

After some research for how I wired the sub the best option is to replace my Kicker LOC for an LC2i.

I basically mounted the new sub in the factory location and used the wires coming in from the factory sub as the wires I converted into the rca cables through the kicker loc, to my amp.

For wiring the lc2i it says I need remote in, ground and 12v power.

Ground - I have,
Remote in - I can move the wire from my amp to the lc2i
Remote out - from lc2i to the amp

The 12v is where my question is, I gave my amp 12v from the battery and the lc2i instructions say to wire 12v to the battery, I was wondering if I can use a constant 12v fuse in the trunk as my 12v power instead, as I have many empty slots and it's easy enough to do? Or is that a bad idea?

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[Tre']

Why not tap into the same +12v that's running to your amp?

[turbosharef]

Why not tap into the same +12v that's running to your amp?

Thought it might be a bad idea to run 2 lines from the same connection, was thinking it might be safer to have 2 separate connections

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[Smac770]

Profile says B8.5, this is correct?

Then the 12v distribution in the rear is:

B8.5 right rear 12v distribution.jpg

So if I wanted to add a high amp device like an aftermarket sound system, I'd be more inclined to add a flat fuse at SA3, which is unused in a NAR market 2.0T config, and run my stuff to that. In your case, you'd have one wire with an inline fuse of appropriate value for the amp, and a second wire with an inline fuse of appropriate value for the processor, then the flat fuse for the pair collectively would be the sum of the value of the two per-device fuses. Depending on where the stuff is, you could run one wire from the battery panel and then split it at the devices with a fused distribution block. That's what I used in my system decades ago. But those aren't small objects, and if space is a premium, ....

As for running a fuse terminal terminated wire to one of the open positions on B or C, for a low power device like that processor, that should be plenty fine too. I'd probably go through the fuses and see if you have less total already on B or C. B and C are both fed by a 6.0 mm² wire (10 awg). The individually wired positions in E are each fed by a 2.5 mm² wire (14 awg).

[turbosharef]

Profile says B8.5, this is correct?

Then the 12v distribution in the rear is:

B8.5 right rear 12v distribution.jpg

So if I wanted to add a high amp device like an aftermarket sound system, I'd be more inclined to add a flat fuse at SA3, which is unused in a NAR market 2.0T config, and run my stuff to that. In your case, you'd have one wire with an inline fuse of appropriate value for the amp, and a second wire with an inline fuse of appropriate value for the processor, then the flat fuse for the pair collectively would be the sum of the value of the two per-device fuses. Depending on where the stuff is, you could run one wire from the battery panel and then split it at the devices with a fused distribution block. That's what I used in my system decades ago. But those aren't small objects, and if space is a premium, ....

As for running a fuse terminal terminated wire to one of the open positions on B or C, for a low power device like that processor, that should be plenty fine too. I'd probably go through the fuses and see if you have less total already on B or C. B and C are both fed by a 6.0 mm² wire (10 awg). The individually wired positions in E are each fed by a 2.5 mm² wire (14 awg).

Thanks Smac, Yes B8.5.

I was thinking on either B or C using a fuse tap. The LC2i calls for an 18awg with a 1amp fuse. An open slot on B or C should be fine to handle that, right?

I'm trying to save space and run wires in a way that everything is hidden and oem looking so when the trunk is open, you don't see anything. I really like the way everything came out on the install. I just hate my current line out converter .

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[Smac770]

1A is barely a thing. Yeah, either column can easily handle another amp.

[turbosharef]

1A is barely a thing. Yeah, either column can easily handle another amp.

Awesome, thanks for always helping

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[BoostedJoe]

Hi, I have had my sub installed now for about a month and a half and I want to make some changes to the rca connection for the line output converter specifically. Some songs the bass sounds amazing and others its terrible.

After some research for how I wired the sub the best option is to replace my Kicker LOC for an LC2i.

I basically mounted the new sub in the factory location and used the wires coming in from the factory sub as the wires I converted into the rca cables through the kicker loc, to my amp.

For wiring the lc2i it says I need remote in, ground and 12v power.

Ground - I have,
Remote in - I can move the wire from my amp to the lc2i
Remote out - from lc2i to the amp

The 12v is where my question is, I gave my amp 12v from the battery and the lc2i instructions say to wire 12v to the battery, I was wondering if I can use a constant 12v fuse in the trunk as my 12v power instead, as I have many empty slots and it's easy enough to do? Or is that a bad idea?

Sent from my SM-S918W using Tapatalk

I have the same set up but I ran 2 seperate power connections to the amp and another to the lc2i and both with inline fuses. Better to be safe , fuse tap is a little iffy if you ask me. For dash cams and other small accessories it may be ok but I wouldn’t risk it


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[sQ5inSD]

Hi, I have had my sub installed now for about a month and a half and I want to make some changes to the rca connection for the line output converter specifically. Some songs the bass sounds amazing and others its terrible.

After some research for how I wired the sub the best option is to replace my Kicker LOC for an LC2i.

I basically mounted the new sub in the factory location and used the wires coming in from the factory sub as the wires I converted into the rca cables through the kicker loc, to my amp.

For wiring the lc2i it says I need remote in, ground and 12v power.

Ground - I have,
Remote in - I can move the wire from my amp to the lc2i
Remote out - from lc2i to the amp

The 12v is where my question is, I gave my amp 12v from the battery and the lc2i instructions say to wire 12v to the battery, I was wondering if I can use a constant 12v fuse in the trunk as my 12v power instead, as I have many empty slots and it's easy enough to do? Or is that a bad idea?

Sent from my SM-S918W using Tapatalk

welcome to the 4ring forum - I am over on the Q5 side but was on the A4 because my son just got a 2016 2.0T so I am looking for cat/downpipe options - anyway, I have an LC2iPro and an Audio Control D-4.800 integrated in my Q with the factory B&O system (go check out the system diagram here: https://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...hlight=sq5insd)

The LC2i/LC2iPro are both really high-value products that offer a lot of useful features - I went with the Pro because I wanted the remote level control for the factory speaker level sub output but functionally this is not needed IF your MMI head unit controls have the coveted sub level control built in (my MMI version does not and I never figured out how to update/upgrade without a $$$ trip to a dealership )

The other members have offered some great info but honestly all you need to power the LC2i is any "key-on" power source which means even the 12V port in the trunk will work. You can use the GTO settings to wake up the LC2i so that eliminates the need to run a separate trigger wire.

One thing I did not see any comments on are grounds - this is probably the most important/misunderstood/abused/ignored part of any installation - my best advice is to ground the LC2i to the same location as the amplifier(s) which brings up another question - do you have a factory amplifier and does your subwoofer amplifier share the same ground as it?

Your post mentioned the terrible low freq response with the basic LOC which is typical and easy to correct with the LC2i but you did not say what factory system you have - please let us know and we can continue offering advice/opinions becasue they are free