8Y Drop in Air Filter

[fzr100098]

Not a big fan of K&N, any thoughts on this one?

https://www.wagner-tuning.com/produc...0001003-2.html

I believe most of the (small) power gains (near stock boost levels) are in the filter itself. The fancy intakes look cool but doubt they flow alot more air - happy to be proven wrong

[TheContrarian]

Yes they gain a small amount of power because they don't filter as well, meaning more particulate matter entering the combustion chamber. I would stick with the OEM filter.

[ZTTRS]

Dont

I went through 3 of them and they started to fray open on the edges. Weird because Wagner is a Great company

[kevin#34]

oiled (cotton or foam) filters might be outdated, I moved from pipercross to sprintfilter and maintenance wise is much better because it doesn't need to be reoiled at each cleaning. About performance, they claim polyester has a better filtering capacity combined with better air penetration, but have no idea nor I made a comparison test
https://www.sprintfilter.net/automotive/whysf

[XMetal]

oiled (cotton or foam) filters might be outdated, I moved from pipercross to sprintfilter and maintenance wise is much better because it doesn't need to be reoiled at each cleaning. About performance, they claim polyester has a better filtering capacity combined with better air penetration, but have no idea nor I made a comparison test
https://www.sprintfilter.net/automotive/whysf

Not very scientific, I know. But after seeing this video, I'm staying with the OE filter. If I must, I will rather go with a dry cotton filter than those sprint filters.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nZ0YEPR1pJ8

[S3DUDE]

I have/had a K&N drop in filter and it positively yielded a solid 1mph on my previous personal best. I want to emphazise that I did not round out the number, I didn't increased .9 mph or 1.4 mph on my traps, it was exactly a solid 1 MPH. My previous record was 126.94 mph and after the K&N I ran 127.94 mph on just stage 1 E-85 (Unitronic)and by the way, look on the registry and see where I sit on that trap speed and that was done at 3100ft of elevation.

Now I am using the same K&N drop in filter that was on my 8V RS3 and I put it on the 8Y RS3. Look at my trap speed for a stock car(with the drop in), I trapped almost 121mph with no tune and that was again at 3100ft elevation. Do I recommend the K&N ? hell yeah.

[TToysRuS]

I have/had a K&N drop in filter and it positively yielded a solid 1mph on my previous personal best. I want to emphazise that I did not round out the number, I didn't increased .9 mph or 1.4 mph on my traps, it was exactly a solid 1 MPH. My previous record was 126.94 mph and after the K&N I ran 127.94 mph on just stage 1 E-85 (Unitronic)and by the way, look on the registry and see where I sit on that trap speed and that was done at 3100ft of elevation.

Now I am using the same K&N drop in filter that was on my 8V RS3 and I put it on the 8Y RS3. Look at my trap speed for a stock car(with the drop in), I trapped almost 121mph with no tune and that was again at 3100ft elevation. Do I recommend the K&N ? hell yeah.

I noticed a nice difference on my TTRS as well with the K&N drop in.

[fzr100098]

Not very scientific, I know. But after seeing this video, I'm staying with the OE filter. If I must, I will rather go with a dry cotton filter than those sprint filters.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nZ0YEPR1pJ8

That's not a relevant experiment because street cars will never experience such particulate loading. Paper elements provide superior filtration, I don't think anyone argues that, but I've never heard of accelerated engine wear running performance air filters unless you're driving through a sand storm. if you look in the intake tract you won't see anything (if it's properly installed and oiled if required)

I prefer Green filter to K&N but don't think they make one for the RS3

[tegxsi]

I have a spare K&N filter around somewhere. I think BMC makes a panel filter. From what I hear BMC is better than K&N.
I've come across an ebay non-oiled filter. https://www.ebay.com/itm/18445233967...mis&media=COPY

[TheContrarian]

That's not a relevant experiment because street cars will never experience such particulate loading. Paper elements provide superior filtration, I don't think anyone argues that, but I've never heard of accelerated engine wear running performance air filters unless you're driving through a sand storm. if you look in the intake tract you won't see anything (if it's properly installed and oiled if required)

I prefer Green filter to K&N but don't think they make one for the RS3

Here's a better test https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YypvDEQyNBY

These drop in filters really do allow more dust into your engine for trivial amounts of power. The K&N filter performance was comparable to no filter at all and looked nearly transparent when held up to the light.

[fzr100098]

How does "dust" equate to engine wear is the question (on the street) - probably goes right out through the exhaust valves. Good oil filter is more important imo, in addition to 5k oil changes (10k is insane and more a marketing ploy)

Yep, I prefer Green filter to K&N - it's probably worth 5-7 hp

[XMetal]

How does "dust" equate to engine wear is the question (on the street) - probably goes right out through the exhaust valves. Good oil filter is more important imo, in addition to 5k oil changes (10k is insane and more a marketing ploy)

Yep, I prefer Green filter to K&N - it's probably worth 5-7 hp

If this is what you believe and how you rationalize it, then why not run no filter? Why even bother putting in a filter if "dust" will probably goes right out through the exhaust valves anyway?

[RMode]

Here's a better test https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YypvDEQyNBY

These drop in filters really do allow more dust into your engine for trivial amounts of power. The K&N filter performance was comparable to no filter at all and looked nearly transparent when held up to the light.

A paper filter is similarly see through under a bright light. It would have to be.

They filter down to around 25 microns. The key to it working well, is keeping it clean: just like the key to a healthy engine is frequent air filter changes (more than the manufacturer suggests) and oil changes. Dust in the engine happens. It can’t be avoided. Oils job is to hold such things in suspension. The upside to the filter isn’t really “power” to me. It’s reuse-ability. Measuring any intake on a dyno is tits on a bull.


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[RMode]

How does "dust" equate to engine wear is the question (on the street) - probably goes right out through the exhaust valves. Good oil filter is more important imo, in addition to 5k oil changes (10k is insane and more a marketing ploy)

Yep, I prefer Green filter to K&N - it's probably worth 5-7 hp

Fwiw, 10k isn’t a marketing ploy at all. Ask actual triboligists. Oil can go that long, and more. If certain conditions are met. If the conditions aren’t met consistently, shorter intervals are needed.


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[fzr100098]

Fwiw, 10k isn’t a marketing ploy at all. Ask actual triboligists. Oil can go that long, and more. If certain conditions are met. If the conditions aren’t met consistently, shorter intervals are needed.

A light duty Accord might be ok running 10k intervals, not a high power density forced induction engine driven aggressively - they all have fuel contamination. Yes, it's marketing - they want to sell people on low maintenance, and they don't care much about longer term (> 100k miles) longevity - why would they?

How many of these boosted to the moon engines are going to hold compression at 250k miles like a V6 or 4 cylinder n/a Accord? None

I don't trust Blackstone, either - use OilAnalyzers https://www.oaitesting.com/

Why even bother putting in a filter if "dust" will probably goes right out through the exhaust valves anyway?

I think that's obvious - you don't want larger particulate in the motor

[RMode]

A light duty Accord might be ok running 10k intervals, not a high power density forced induction engine driven aggressively - they all have fuel contamination. Yes, it's marketing - they want to sell people on low maintenance, and they don't care much about longer term (> 100k miles) longevity - why would they?

How many of these boosted to the moon engines are going to hold compression at 250k miles like a V6 or 4 cylinder n/a Accord? None

I don't trust Blackstone, either - use OilAnalyzers https://www.oaitesting.com/



I think that's obvious - you don't want larger particulate in the motor

Accords aren’t NA. Virtually nothing is nowadays. They haven’t been NA in 6 years I believe.

Did I say a thing about Blackstone?

Again, intervals are wholly dependent on use case.
. Some of my cars I go long, some I don’t. It’s served me well since forever, and I’ve had virtually nothing but performance oriented machines


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[ZTTRS]

for me, as a general rule on any performance car I do OCs at 4k. Regardless if its OTS synthetic or boutique oil. Even the most robust additive packages breakdown fairly quick with heat cycles seeing 220+ oil temps. on my NA civic however, I was doing OCs at 9k and after analysis I still go 2-3 more

[RMode]

for me, as a general rule on any performance car I do OCs at 4k. Regardless if its OTS synthetic or boutique oil. Even the most robust additive packages breakdown fairly quick with heat cycles seeing 220+ oil temps. on my NA civic however, I was doing OCs at 9k and after analysis I still go 2-3 more

They really don’t, that’s precisely the temps (220-250) modern oils work their best at in fact. But it’s all conditional based on fuel, environment, avg trip distance and sustained temp (sustained temps are good, short bursts aren’t) stock motor, built motor, and more.

Don’t get me wrong, frequency is cheap insurance, especially on a DI engine, that sees short trips so rarely at or sustained temps especially modified on the fuel side of things But the 10am interval isn’t a myth as suggested above.

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[S3DUDE]

for me, as a general rule on any performance car I do OCs at 4k. Regardless if its OTS synthetic or boutique oil. Even the most robust additive packages breakdown fairly quick with heat cycles seeing 220+ oil temps. on my NA civic however, I was doing OCs at 9k and after analysis I still go 2-3 more

Not to say that you are doing anything wrong by changing the oil at 4k, I wouldn't argue that changing the oil that often benefits the engine but I would also say that if you are not beating on the car and you drive "relaxed" and highway miles and not building a lot of heat by reving high you are probably fine with longer oil change intervals. 7500 miles is also very aceptable. I know now days most dealers offer a 10k oil intervals but everything is very subjective and like you said, a lot of car manufacturers want to pull the marketing card: "free oil changes for the first 2 years". As it turns out that often means maybe one oil change because people wouldn't even drive 10k miles a year.

So in summary, yes, you are doing good and you are being proactive. You are changing the oil in a shorter intervals because you value your car very much and there is nothing wrong with that.

[ZTTRS]

Not to say that you are doing anything wrong by changing the oil at 4k, I wouldn't argue that changing the oil that often benefits the engine but I would also say that if you are not beating on the car and you drive "relaxed" and highway miles and not building a lot of heat by reving high you are probably fine with longer oil change intervals. 7500 miles is also very aceptable. I know now days most dealers offer a 10k oil intervals but everything is very subjective and like you said, a lot of car manufacturers want to pull the marketing card: "free oil changes for the first 2 years". As it turns out that often means maybe one oil change because people wouldn't even drive 10k miles a year.

So in summary, yes, you are doing good and you are being proactive. You are changing the oil in a shorter intervals because you value your car very much and there is nothing wrong with that.

its a mix of both, hard driving and cruising. After performing numerous Oil analysis here at my job from all my past cars, I started seeing the additive packages and detergents begin breakdown around 3k and thermal degradation starting at 220-230 depending on oil and additive package. These were all in cars above 550-600whp< I just went with 4.5k. Now my little 1.8 Honda Civic I stretched out very comfortably to 9k. You are for sure right though, I am overly proactive lol

[tegxsi]

I rather change my oil more frequently with cheaper oil than to stretch my oil changes with pricier oils. Following manufacturers recommendation is to save the earth and resources.

It's not even about the additive packages in the oil... A good amount of soot particles do get into the oil on DI engines that's why I prefer 3-5k oil changes.

[fzr100098]

They really don’t, that’s precisely the temps (220-250) modern oils work their best at in fact. But it’s all conditional based on fuel, environment, avg trip distance and sustained temp (sustained temps are good, short bursts aren’t) stock motor, built motor, and more.

Don’t get me wrong, frequency is cheap insurance, especially on a DI engine, that sees short trips so rarely at or sustained temps especially modified on the fuel side of things But the 10am interval isn’t a myth as suggested above.

For turbo DI cars 10k is insane - I've probably seen more UOAs than you have in 30 years. Again, they all have fuel dilution to one extent or another

Well aware the Accord went turbo starting in 2018 haha, I've only owned about 5 of them, that's why I said "n/a Accord". I will say the 2.0L in the Accord and Type R has an ingenious system to reduce blowby and fuel contamination

[fzr100098]

I have a spare K&N filter around somewhere. I think BMC makes a panel filter. From what I hear BMC is better than K&N

BMC seems to be the only alternative at this point

Edit - UroTuning sells one manufactured by Masata, never heard of them

[ZTTRS]

RAMAIR pro ram makes a dryflow drop in--- https://www.all-stars-motorsport.com...185619198.html

I have one for sale, barely used

[fzr100098]

Went back to stock filter?

[ZTTRS]

bought a Blaze intake

[S3DUDE]

bought a Blaze intake

How do you like it?