Project Zephyr: 2005 A4 Stroker

[LVSHS]

Hello Audizine

Been a lurker for 10 years now, try to do everything myself, and have never posted on a forum. Finally made an account to document the first build.

As of now this is just the bottom end (completely stock head), some supporting mods, and my Eurodyne experience.

End goal is a 2008cc stroker with oversize valves paired with a twinscroll G30-770.


Short story of the Zephyr

After owning a 5 Speed B5 A4 1.8t, MK1 TT225, and 6 speed B7 A4 Avant 2.0 and falling in love with the 1.8t, I decided to get a tiptronic B7 S4 (horrid). After a year I wanted out and decided to buy a 6 Speed B6 A4, online, from Copart that looked decent for $800. Figured I could put some work into it for that price. Gets delivered, windshield has a small crack from driver to passenger side, no exhaust after the downpipe (perfect), broken glovebox, and some rust over the rear wheel well. They were crafty with the pictures so I didn't notice. For the price and some reason I loved it immediately.

Fixed her up (minus rust) and did the timing and she didn't need a thing for 2 years. Then one day, after wanting to go big turbo since my TT, I said f**k it. Never pulled an engine or built one but in the beginning of November 2022 I bought the parts and pulled the engine.





The goal for Project Zephyr is to find a nice southern Avant to swap everything over to and create a DD sleeper while keeping the entire vacuum system modified but stock.

Parts That Matter

• IE crank
• IE Mahle Pistons
• IE Tuscon rods
• TT225 Injectors (for now)
• CTS High flow cat (for now)
• Southbend Stage 3 Endurance clutch (kept stock flywheel, for now, not sure if I like it)
• IE Street/Race Cams (uninstalled, Black Friday deal lol)
• Ignitron
• Vibrant Performance Gen 3 Catch can (this thing is a work of art)

Speaking of the catch can, bask in its glory. I have to say this has to be one of the best catch cans ever designed.



I went with the medium for some ridiculous reason and probably won't have to drain it for 50k miles If I did it again I would probably get the small size to make mounting it easier.



I also opted for the -12 version, there were also -10 available when I purchased it. There are also 2 port versions with a vent to atmosphere, has its place but not on our cars. I just capped off two of the ports.



I also forgot to take a picture of the slosh baffle. You can see it in the video in the link.











If you're wondering how I fit a 1.5L catch can in a 1.8L engine bay, its tucked quite nicely under the coolant reservoir. Just used two self tapping screws.
It does have a drain kit for $50 that I didn't realize until after I installed it. I'll install that when I empty it for the first time.





I cut the hard pipe and changed the orientation of the PRV and used two 1" to .75" couplers to connect the -12 to the stock parts.






Engine Porn











I ended up bringing the block to a machine shop in Ontario Canada. West Carleton Automotive. Highly recommend, super friendly and do an amazing job and above all, they care. Will be bringing the head up there too.

2 months later.









Assembling pistons and rods.







Cleaned up.



Rings, top gapped to .025 and bottom .027



Main caps they even number stamped for me.



Head, left the valves like that. This is the non German AMB head so its trash. I have access to an '02 Passat that's been sitting with the perfect head for the job.



Block complete.







All back together.





Wanted to throw in this pic of how I did the PCV without the OE 1 piece plastic junk. I will say the middle part of the T started leaking because the OE tube changes sizes and I tried to just clamp it down. Quick fix. I also replaced most check valves with the U.S. Plastics kynar check valves as you can see. I also used the 034 motorsports billet PCV check valve that you can't see.





Broke it in according to Motoman and changed the oil after 25 miles and then 500 miles due to some restrictions. Pics are of the first oil change.





Just did my 5000 mile oil change 250 miles ago (at original post date). She's been running good and sounds amazing IMO, better than I expected. Still working out small things with the tune and just recently installed a wideband and the P3 gauge. Its crazy how fast the K03 can spool and then also how fast it runs out of breathe.




Eurodyne

In short, its everything one would need to tune your car and its 6/10user friendly. Its also kinda good for a beginner learning to tune IMO because there is no official documentation so it forces you to do your research and learn, but that takes a while and a lot of trial and error.
Then you learn the things you can do, but not with Eurodyne. If you're a perfectionist like me, it will leave you wanting more.


To be continued...


Update 9/21/2023

Everything about Eurodyne I stated above I would disregard and say: If you know how to tune and your displacement is stock, it is perfect.


I have switched to the Ignitron ECU

It is anything and everything you need.


Head Rebuild

Finally got all the parts for the head (will post pics soon with donor head). I'm going to keep stock intake valve size and small port runners with minor runner porting and do oversize exhaust valves with major runner porting.


Update 6/4/2024

Pretty Big Update Here. I should change the name to Operation Zephyr now

Picked up a 2002 auto A4 Avant with about 212k miles to swap the engine and 6 speed over to Only paid $1,800. The whole thing was in great shape for the age and milage.

Got the head back. I ended up going for +1mm exhaust valves and did no porting at all.

Thanks to Issam I was able to get a 75mm throttle body and an incredible intake manifold from P-Motorsports over in Germany.

The swap itself is technically done. Since I had a donor car the swap was honestly pretty easy and seemless having literally everything one would need. I Just took out the complete wiring harnesses and was able to plug the harness and relays right into the 2002. Hopefully avoiding jumping that one relay and wiring the reverese switch. I think the only thing left is wiring up the cluth switch because the auto didn't have a plug for that.

That being said: I have a whole black b6 sedan parts car minus all manual stuff and a whole 1.8t (AMB) connected to a TIP with the ecu and tcm.




1.8t with TIP

2.0 Stroker and 02X



I took the head off while prepping the new head and to inspect the pistons. The shop Installed the guides, seats, locators, springs and valves. While installing the lifters I discovered that there were some dings in a few different spots. I believe with a vacuum and a dremel with the smallet attatchment and slowest speed I was able to smooth the spots. I am currently waiting for an adjustable cam gear, friction disk and arp cam bolt. Once I get those I want to install them and cycle the head to make sure everything is proper before installing it.

Once that is done I need to construct the PCV and vacuum system that I came up with while allowing it to pass NY emissions (hopefully) and be a DD. I planned on putting a resistor in place of the SAI pump and getting rid of the CEL for incorrect flow. Ignitron actually allows you connect to the OBDII and emulate the diagnostics system. You can turn on or off all readiness checks and tests. There are however warnings at every step telling you to not do it because the ecu is for off-road use. You also need to input the VIN #, calibration ID, and ECU name from the original ECU. Unfortunately, one of the recent updates apparently got rid of SAI support and changed the name of the readiness tests to "configuration bits" and the names of the tests/checks to Bit 0 - Bit 10. They are definitely making it hard to do but not impossible.

Good thing I only updated my desktop and not my tuning laptop so I should be fine.

This is a diagram I made that should be easy to follow. Let me know if I could/should change anything.




Last few vital parts to bring the build together are the turbo, wastegate, intercooler, exhaust manifold, and fueling.
I've been thinking of picking up some ID1050-XDS right now as well.

Sorry for lack of pics but more to come!

[09SCiduA]

Awesome introduction!! Great writeup and documentation! I look forward to following your progress!

Sent from my SM-G991U using Tapatalk

[LVSHS]

Awesome introduction!! Great writeup and documentation! I look forward to following your progress!

Thank you!

[Kevin C]

I built a 1.8T stroker a couple of years ago. https://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...oker-O6F-block In the 20,000 plus miles I have been driving it, it has been great. It looks like you are using the same pistons and rods and stroke. I went a slightly different route and built what might be the first 1.8T with balance shafts by using the O6F block. My HP goal was very modest, just 300 or so WHP. The build was more about making a fun daily driver that upped low end to mid range TQ. No regrets. My personal opinion of Motoman's break in method is he is a bit of a quack. A correctly prepped block will break in perfectly pretty much regardless of what you do. I use a method recommended by Chrysler engineers that they came up with way back when (70's). Turbo motors develop lots of cyl pressure and ring machining is to a level that getting them to seat correctly is a non issue. That and using a deck plate that insures round bores ( I did notice it looks like you used one).

I did try looking at some of the photos you linked to. Either the server they are on is really slow or my ISP is throttling that site, it takes way too long to load them. Probably time to resize them.

Building engines is one of my favorite things to do.

The build looks good!

[Puddin Tane]

Wow, what a treasure trove of info! Thank you!

Questions:

Did you go with USP kynar check valves because they're cheap or cuz they're better? What size is right for the car's 4mm ID vac lines?

What's the letter code on that 2002 Passat head?

Lake George... I have a cuz in Ballston Spa. Breathtaking scenery but oh those poor cars!

[EuroxS4]

Looks like a great build, I you haven't changed the fasteners I would upgrade to ARP if going for big power, depending on goals. I would assume with pistons and rods your gonna shoot for close or over 500whp if that's the case I would install ARP hardware. Also I would say Eurodyne is ok. I went the ignitron route, personally after ignitron I wouldn't dare touch eurodyne this is my opinion. That being said ignitron is for the hardcore user. With a southbend clutch I would change the clutch fork or get it reinforced. Those clutches like to crack clutch forks. Looks good so far. Looking forward to some updates.

[LVSHS]

I built a 1.8T stroker a couple of years ago. https://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...oker-O6F-block In the 20,000 plus miles I have been driving it, it has been great. It looks like you are using the same pistons and rods and stroke. I went a slightly different route and built what might be the first 1.8T with balance shafts by using the O6F block. My HP goal was very modest, just 300 or so WHP. The build was more about making a fun daily driver that upped low end to mid range TQ. No regrets.

I remember coming across your build and finding it super interesting and outside the box.

My personal opinion of Motoman's break in method is he is a bit of a quack. A correctly prepped block will break in perfectly pretty much regardless of what you do. I use a method recommended by Chrysler engineers that they came up with way back when (70's). Turbo motors develop lots of cyl pressure and ring machining is to a level that getting them to seat correctly is a non issue. That and using a deck plate that insures round bores ( I did notice it looks like you used one).

I can agree with that, but I think the point he was trying to get across is to just not baby it, and doing the first oil change at about 20 miles. The metal that came out after only 25 miles compared to 500 miles definitely confirms that IMO

I did try looking at some of the photos you linked to. Either the server they are on is really slow or my ISP is throttling that site, it takes way too long to load them. Probably time to resize them.

I fixed everything so all pictures should load normally

The build looks good!

Thank you!

[LVSHS]

Did you go with USP kynar check valves because they're cheap or cuz they're better? What size is right for the car's 4mm ID vac lines?

cheap and replaceable. Metal ones with the correct cracking pressure would be best. I believe 3/16" or 1/4"

What's the letter code on that 2002 Passat head?

AWM

Lake George... I have a cuz in Ballston Spa. Breathtaking scenery but oh those poor cars!

I know! Fun fact, the Adirondacks is the largest state park in the continental US!

[LVSHS]

Looks like a great build, I you haven't changed the fasteners I would upgrade to ARP if going for big power, depending on goals. I would assume with pistons and rods your gonna shoot for close or over 500whp if that's the case I would install ARP hardware.

I definitely got the ARP head bolts and mains studs. I'm aiming for 600-700hp with the G30-770

Also I would say Eurodyne is ok. I went the ignitron route, personally after ignitron I wouldn't dare touch eurodyne this is my opinion. That being said ignitron is for the hardcore user.

I'll have to look into that. TBH I found Eurodyne years ago, way before I even thought about a build, and was like that's what I'm going to use if I ever do. I've been having this feeling I'll be switching to something else before the build is finished.

With a southbend clutch I would change the clutch fork or get it reinforced. Those clutches like to crack clutch forks.

Also wish I would have known this, thank you

[Kevin C]

I remember coming across your build and finding it super interesting and outside the box.




I can agree with that, but I think the point he was trying to get across is to just not baby it, and doing the first oil change at about 20 miles. The metal that came out after only 25 miles compared to 500 miles definitely confirms that IMO




I fixed everything so all pictures should load normally

Thanks for fixing the pics! Way easier to see what you are doing. Lots of good stuff!!!

As far as break-in goes I did my version. Nothing too extream. load it up and cool it down. Up the RPM and the loads as the miles go up. Get a few a few miles on it and work it harder. I'm running the same magnetic plug, on mine all I got was a fine silt of iron. First 150 miles (my first oil change) there was a fair amount. By the time I hit 5000 miles the lab report came back pretty low. What is on yours looks way, way different. Either way all that matters is getting good results. It sounds like yours broke in pretty well. Based on lab results and oil usage I'm going to claim the same for mine. I'm still getting reports on mine and I just changed to a POE based oil.

As a reference this is the results at 5000 miles from my super boring break-in.
Lab_Report.jpg

[LVSHS]

...I wouldn't dare touch eurodyne this is my opinion. That being said ignitron is for the hardcore user.

So, I'd have to say I'm a hardcore user because I want it the way I want it. After looking into Ignitron, that really sounds perfect. But its really just that simple? Plug and play and uses all stock sensors? I could just copy my maestro maps over to it and then change the things I couldn't. Can you tell me what's under the startup tab? What about passing emissions for a dd?

[LVSHS]

What is on yours looks way, way different. Either way all that matters is getting good results. It sounds like yours broke in pretty well.

See so I had an Idle issue after my first start and it took a day to figure out it was a simple check box By then I figured it had had like 20-30 mins of idle time. Once I figured it out, I let it warm all the way then turning out of my driveway I gave it like 70% and went to like 5600 rpm then let it coast down to 1700. Kinda ballsy but hey. Pretty much did that all 25 miles, just going around the rural back roads.

Based on lab results and oil usage I'm going to claim the same for mine. I'm still getting reports on mine and I just changed to a POE based oil.

As a reference this is the results at 5000 miles from my super boring break-in.

I have never thought about doing that with my oil so I have no reference to go from unfortunately but I assume that's good

[EuroxS4]

Going over these pictures I see one fatal flaw that I would change. I would ditch the hydraulic tensioner and roller for a litens setup. Better in my opinon less chance of a failed component.

[LVSHS]

Going over these pictures I see one fatal flaw that I would change. I would ditch the hydraulic tensioner and roller for a litens setup. Better in my opinon less chance of a failed component.

Oh yes I forgot to mention I plan on getting the manual tensioner. I figured I'd do that when I build the head. I planned on using the hydraulic one less than 15-20,000 miles, depending on when I get the head done. As well as grabbing a fluidampr.

[Kevin C]

Oh yes I forgot to mention I plan on getting the manual tensioner. I figured I'd do that when I build the head. I planned on using the hydraulic one less than 15-20,000 miles, depending on when I get the head done. As well as grabbing a fluidampr.

Consider going to the B7 2.0T fluid damper with the six bolt flange. Also, not a huge fan of the Kevlar belt, IMHO the oem is a better part. To be fair, a lot of factory tensioners were made and 99% of the time are not an issue. The upgraded Litens tensioner is a nice step up, is self adjusting and it just plain works. I also used the Diamond washer from the B7 on the belt sprocket crank interface. It adds about 3 to 4X more friction to the pulley and is nice alternative to drilling for a dowel pin. It can matter if your shooting for high HP. I'm not a fan of trying to get rid of the TTY front pullet bolt. OEM TTY type bolt and the diamond washer is the most consistent setup.

[LVSHS]

Consider going to the B7 2.0T fluid damper with the six bolt flange.

I will be going this route for sure, with the diamond washer

Also, not a huge fan of the Kevlar belt, IMHO the oem is a better part.

Can you elaborate on why?

[Kevin C]

Glass belting is a more stable material than Kevlar. The Kevlar tradeoff is you gain in shock load capacity but give up a lot of other things. Since we are not seeing shock load failures on OEM belts its a solution looking for a problem. Not a lot of TQ impacts driving the cams so IMHO glass belting is a better choice. Both belts are strength limited by the teeth.

http://gatesbeltsandapplications.blo...embers-in.html

The length instability of aramid tensile members creates challenges in belt manufacturing processes and in actual belt drive applications. Aramid materials change length as they absorb and release moisture. Changing humidity influences belt manufacturing length targets as well as how belt teeth mesh with sprockets in actual belt drive applications. In addition, aramid tensile members have a negative thermal coefficient causing them to expand and contract opposite that of metal. As machinery warms up in usage and structures expand, aramid belts shrink and become tighter. Aramid belts also loose tension rapidly with structural contraction during cooling as they lengthen

Kevlar belt and a manual tensioner may not be the hot setup considering the temperature and moisture changes engine components see.

https://www.linearmotiontips.com/whe...-applications/

Although Kevlar is suitable for a wide range of temperatures, it has a negative thermal coefficient of expansion, meaning that it shrinks as the temperature rises and lengthens as it cools. Since this behavior is the opposite of most other machine components (especially those made of metal) — which expand as temperature increases and contract as temperature decreases — Kevlar-reinforced belts may not be suitable in environments with significant temperature fluctuations.

A favorite question at work is how will we know a change will be an improvement? And how will we measure this change.... Coupled in with is there a problem that needs to be solved? I have seen more problems with people running the Kevlar belts than the OEM.

[EuroxS4]

Consider going to the B7 2.0T fluid damper with the six bolt flange. Also, not a huge fan of the Kevlar belt, IMHO the oem is a better part. To be fair, a lot of factory tensioners were made and 99% of the time are not an issue. The upgraded Litens tensioner is a nice step up, is self adjusting and it just plain works. I also used the Diamond washer from the B7 on the belt sprocket crank interface. It adds about 3 to 4X more friction to the pulley and is nice alternative to drilling for a dowel pin. It can matter if your shooting for high HP. I'm not a fan of trying to get rid of the TTY front pullet bolt. OEM TTY type bolt and the diamond washer is the most consistent setup.

I would have to agree about the timing belt as well. I have seen numerous kevlar belts squeak and also fail. IIRC at one point there was some literature on those belts where they should be changed every 2 years due to their compsition but I believe that info went away. Long story short I would trust a factory belt as well. I would do a press fit crank gear with a arp bolt thread locker and a ekagrip diamond shim, and a diamond shim for the cam gear and a arp bolt as well. I have seen numerous stock crank gear fail cause they are made of swiss cheese especially when drilled and pinned.

[Kevin C]

The ARP bolt increases the initial torque but still requires a 1/4 turn, just like the oem part. That sounds just like a tty bolt. And they specify red loctite.

All that for a claimed 10% gain in clamping load? That number is taken straight from IE's web page.

The B7 diamond washer gives you a 300% gain in joint friction at the stock clamp load and you don't need to deal with red loctite.

[LVSHS]

Thank you for that knowledge Kevin. Things I never would have thought about. I'll be switching back.

As for the crank bolt and gear. I have the ARP bolt and the 4 bolt IE press fit gear, but not the washer. I think when I finish the build I'll grab the washer, 6 bolt gear and accommodating Fluidampr.

[Puddin Tane]

@ Kevin C & EuroxS4:
I too was salivating over the Gates kevlar belt. Thank you both for talking me out of it. Kevlar's long-term chemical stability is questionable. Several environmental exposures can cause it to degrade over time, including HEAT, including heat generated inside the belt by high speed flexing (unmeasurable) so screw that.

[LVSHS]

Update 9/21/2023

[LVSHS]

Update 6/4/2024