Question on Replacing Turbocharger

[durutti]

I am attempting to replace my turbocharger this weekend on my 2015 A4 B8.5 CAED engine. Read some writeups and watched some videos, got the tools, so I think I am good. However, I am uncertain about one thing. In the FCP euro video, the tech drains the oil and the coolant. I haven't seen anyone else do this. Are these steps necessary?

Also, if a senior member wants to earn $50 by being willing to answer some questions in case I run into problems, let me know. I appreciate all the assistance I have received here. Thanks!

[awdjunkies]

I am attempting to replace my turbocharger this weekend on my 2015 A4 B8.5 CAED engine. Read some writeups and watched some videos, got the tools, so I think I am good. However, I am uncertain about one thing. In the FCP euro video, the tech drains the oil and the coolant. I haven't seen anyone else do this. Are these steps necessary?

Also, if a senior member wants to earn $50 by being willing to answer some questions in case I run into problems, let me know. I appreciate all the assistance I have received here. Thanks!

When I was looking to replace mine due to a P0299 code, I searched and found quite a few videos which were great. One of them being FCP Euros, but the way "JD" explains everything in detail, was also a great way to dive into it. I'll link his 4 videos here. One to diagnose, and three to remove and replace the turbo.

[k.sigota]

I am attempting to replace my turbocharger this weekend on my 2015 A4 B8.5 CAED engine. Read some writeups and watched some videos, got the tools, so I think I am good. However, I am uncertain about one thing. In the FCP euro video, the tech drains the oil and the coolant. I haven't seen anyone else do this. Are these steps necessary?

Also, if a senior member wants to earn $50 by being willing to answer some questions in case I run into problems, let me know. I appreciate all the assistance I have received here. Thanks!

If you don't drain the coolant and oil it will drain out of the turbo connections.

Suggest you drain it prior to turbo removal.

When you replace the turbo it's a good idea pre lube (search turbo pre lube in google).

[Allowencer]

If you have a way to propelry plug the coolant feed on the block side, technically you don't have to drain the coolant. Minimal oil will come out the oil feed as that is a pressure line and the engine won't be running. None the less, HIGHLY recommend to do an oil change after the install. Good practice.

As others have said, draining coolant does make it easier to not make a coolant mess.

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[RockJGC]

If you don't have it already, make sure you buy and use this:

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-liqui_mo...SABEgKeePD_BwE

[RockJGC]

Another suggestion:

Get a turbo wastegate clip and install it on your new turbo before you install it. It's basically impossible to install the clip after the turbo is installed unless you do some disassembly or at least remove the downpipe and then it's possible, but still difficult to install it.

It seems like 95% of K03 turbo failures are due to the wastegate no longer sealing. The clip should help prolong the life of the wastegate linkage on your new turbo. It's actually an Audi part.

[silver_tt]

I see you're in the USA. Did you check to see if you are covered for a free turbo in the after-run coolant pump settlement? I keep hoping mine will go out because my 2014 is still under warranty due to this settlement. Even when floor it in very hot weather I can't pull a P0299.

[bb-tt]

its a pretty simple job after you have done it a couple times takes about 30 minutes. I wouldnt order anything from ecs unless you want to wait till next year to do your job.

[durutti]

Yes, those are the bids I was referring to. Excellent and detailed. Thanks!

[durutti]

How would I properly plug coolant line? Reason I am reluctant to drain is it seems as if replacing and bleeding coolant line would require more tools. Will change oil per you recommendation. Thanks!

[durutti]

It is included in the install kit from FCP I believe. Will check before starting.

- - - Updated - - -

Do you happen to have a link?

- - - Updated - - -

Will call my Audi and check this. It would cover a 2015 with 190k,

[durutti]

Oh, correction, the car has 190k miles.

[Allowencer]

How would I properly plug coolant line? Reason I am reluctant to drain is it seems as if replacing and bleeding coolant line would require more tools. Will change oil per you recommendation. Thanks!

Even with plugging, you will have to bleed/purge air. The second you crack the banjo bolt for the coolant line, you've introduced air into the system. Must bleed at that point.

Proper plug would be a short, same thread and pitched bolt or one of those plastic plugs that tightly fits the hole.

All this does is minimize the mess and saves you from loosing more coolant than draining. Usually done by individuals who have done this a few times.

Bleeding doesn't take more tools. There are many, easy, methods to bleed/ purge air from the coolant circuit.

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[Allowencer]

If you don't have it already, make sure you buy and use this:

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-liqui_mo...SABEgKeePD_BwE

Not needed as long as you add some oil to the turbo before you install the feed line and then you prime the oil system with a dry crankover of the engine for a few seconds.

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[Allowencer]

its a pretty simple job after you have done it a couple times takes about 30 minutes. I wouldnt order anything from ecs unless you want to wait till next year to do your job.

I order from ECS all the time. Most times I get stuff next day delivered as they are in OH and I'm in MI (ground/free shipping too).

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[Smac770]

I didn't drain the coolant and it wasn't a problem. But do NOT open the coolant reservoir cap while the lines are unattached, or it will be problem. :-D

[bb-tt]

I order from ECS all the time. Most times I get stuff next day delivered as they are in OH and I'm in MI (ground/free shipping too).

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Must be nice it takes them a week just to make a label when I order, or more often goes back order for a year even though they said it was in stock when I ordered. Solved that by not ordering from them ever again

[Allowencer]

Must be nice it takes them a week just to make a label when I order, or more often goes back order for a year even though they said it was in stock when I ordered. Solved that by not ordering from them ever again

Damn. I'm sorry to hear. I'm not saying they aren't flawless, but they've made it right for me each time when there's an issue. I call up and they make things happen.

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[WHT13AR]

I order from ECS all the time. Most times I get stuff next day delivered as they are in OH and I'm in MI (ground/free shipping too).

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I'm in MI as well and have the same long lead as others stated. I think some things come from a warehouse. I was on the phone with them about a fitment issue and asked if he could look at the part and measure something (tired of getting the wrong parts) and he said they don't have parts where they are, they ship from somewhere else. Not sure how you're getting parts the next day.

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[Allowencer]

I'm in MI as well and have the same long lead as others stated. I think some things come from a warehouse. I was on the phone with them about a fitment issue and asked if he could look at the part and measure something (tired of getting the wrong parts) and he said they don't have parts where they are, they ship from somewhere else. Not sure how you're getting parts the next day.

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One of their biggest warehouses is in OH. I'm in metro Detroit. I'm not embellishing stating I get parts next day with ground shipping. As long as they ship it via UPS, I get it next day. If they ship USPS, good luck with them.

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[durutti]

An update. Given silver__tt's comment, I called the dealership and asked if the car would be covered under the coolant settlement. Gave them the VIN and they said I was covered under the extended warranty! Now, I am aware that it has to pass the diagnosis evaluation, and so go into it knowing it might not be covered. Will give another update once I have their decision. Went ahead and got the Schwaben Coolant Purge tool just in case I still need to do it, I might as well do it right. Can't express how appreciative I am for people's help. Thank you so much.

[audrobotic]

An update. Given silver__tt's comment, I called the dealership and asked if the car would be covered under the coolant settlement. Gave them the VIN and they said I was covered under the extended warranty! Now, I am aware that it has to pass the diagnosis evaluation, and so go into it knowing it might not be covered. Will give another update once I have their decision. Went ahead and got the Schwaben Coolant Purge tool just in case I still need to do it, I might as well do it right. Can't express how appreciative I am for people's help. Thank you so much.

Awesome. Hope it gets covered. I have one week left on the extended warranty to get my water pump to leak.

[silver_tt]

It will be covered if you currently have an underboost fault

[RockJGC]

Not needed as long as you add some oil to the turbo before you install the feed line and then you prime the oil system with a dry crankover of the engine for a few seconds.

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Personally, I'd do all of the above and still add the Liquid Moly installation lube. There's no such thing as too much lubrication for a new turbo. Cheap insurance.

[Allowencer]

Personally, I'd do all of the above and still add the Liquid Moly installation lube. There's no such thing as too much lubrication for a new turbo. Cheap insurance.

I'm more paticular about what could get into the other parts of this engine. With the screens and bearings, I would only use certain oils and very, very few additives. If any at all.

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[silver_tt]

What do you mean with screens you would only use certain oils with few additives? Not understanding how oil additives have anything to do with this

[Allowencer]

Oil additives can have different visocities and also can chemically break down into a sludge or gunk. Chemical reactions between certain oils and other additives can cause unexpected results that you may not be aware of.

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[durutti]

So, I got back from the dealer. The service manager claimed that the tech said it wasn't the turbo. The service requests they asked me to approve were to replace the spark plugs and ignition coils for which they would kindly charge me $1000 to do. Along with the turbo underboost, I got two codes for misfires. About 10 months ago (and 20,000 miles ago), I went through a misfire episode, and replaced the plugs, coils, coil connectors, oil separator, fuel injectors, and did a walnut blasting. Codes were cleared, never came back. 20k miles seems a short time for the plugs and coils to go bad. Doesn't this have to be related to the P029900 code I got a couple weeks before (for clarification I got a P029900 3 weeks ago, cleared it, and then got it again with the misfire codes)?

However, the manager didn't understand what the tech was saying. They included a short video of his assessment of the car, and what he really said was that the misfires occurred before the turbo fault, and that they needed to be dealt with before he would agree the turbo needed replacing. Let's make this worse. He is incorrect. The mileage and date stamp clearly show the turbo code came before the misfires. I just drove my car back home for nothing.

[silver_tt]

Thank you for the reply. What specific additives are you talking about? Additives are what allows oil to hold its viscosity across a range of temperatures. Are you talking about viscosity index improvers?

[silver_tt]

You need to politely tell the Audi manger to go jump in a lake. If you’re getting an underboost code they need to replace the turbo. Take it to another dealership if there is one where you are located.

[Allowencer]

Thank you for the reply. What specific additives are you talking about? Additives are what allows oil to hold its viscosity across a range of temperatures. Are you talking about viscosity index improvers?

I'm talking about any additives you would add into or with any oil. Not referring to the additives oil manufactures add in their brands.

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[Smac770]

P0299 requires the 2psi+ underboost condition for 6+ seconds continuous. What specific codes did you have for misfires? Your coils and plugs should still be like new at 20k miles. Just keep running it and see what comes up. Not much you can do now with cleared history.

[durutti]

The other three codes were:
P0300000
P0303000
P130A00
I was surprised by the coils and plugs as well, though I haven't had a chance to pull them yet(Sat next chance). Any way the fouled plugs and coils related to the turbo? Thanks for the response.

P0299 requires the 2psi+ underboost condition for 6+ seconds continuous. What specific codes did you have for misfires? Your coils and plugs should still be like new at 20k miles. Just keep running it and see what comes up. Not much you can do now with cleared history.

[silver_tt]

Yes but it depends on what the cause of the turbocharger failing is. If the turbine shaft seal is compromised it will leak oil into the intake and ultimately end up in your cylinders. Generally speaking turbos are harder on the plugs which is why the service interval is relatively short.

[Smac770]

I just changed my plugs after 50k miles. They looked like new (minus the expected coloring of the ground probe, etc).

same codes set, but cyl 1, no conclusion - https://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...4-P130A-P0300-
same codes set, but cyl 4, bad coil - https://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...ing-like-crazy

Here's VW "technical tip" on P130A: https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/20...50807-9999.pdf

As you have the code on a specific cylinder, swap plug with a cylinder and swap coil with a different cylinder, see what code comes up then.

If it were PCV, I'd expect misfires on all cylinders. At least anytime my PCV jacked up, that was the case. I would expect the same for a turbo issue. Having it only on one cylinder, would normally look first at individual cylinder specific things: plug, coil, injector, compression.

[Stubek]

its a pretty simple job after you have done it a couple times takes about 30 minutes. I wouldnt order anything from ecs unless you want to wait till next year to do your job.

You can swap a turbo in 30 minutes?

In general, I did mine in my driveway last December. I did NOT drain oil or coolant. Just a couple drops of oil came out. Coolant was a different story. A lot came out, probably 3-4 quarts. I didn't plug it, just let it drain. You could let it drain, catch it, and pour it back in or any rubber stopper that fits in the hole is good too.

Total time for me was about 6 hours, but I was really taking my time, it was raining part of the time, and I triple checked all connections before I first turned the car back on. There was one bolt that goes into the engine block for the little metal bars that support the exhaust manifold part of the turbo that I just couldn't get back in, so I said screw it.

[Allowencer]

You can swap a turbo in 30 minutes?

In general, I did mine in my driveway last December. I did NOT drain oil or coolant. Just a couple drops of oil came out. Coolant was a different story. A lot came out, probably 3-4 quarts. I didn't plug it, just let it drain. You could let it drain, catch it, and pour it back in or any rubber stopper that fits in the hole is good too.

Total time for me was about 6 hours, but I was really taking my time, it was raining part of the time, and I triple checked all connections before I first turned the car back on. There was one bolt that goes into the engine block for the little metal bars that support the exhaust manifold part of the turbo that I just couldn't get back in, so I said screw it.

I would never reuse coolant. #1, you've further oxidized it. #2, everything it drips and runs down will bring that dirt, grit, grime, etc with it. Not worth putting that back into the engine and have that run through the water pump.

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[Smac770]

The workshop manual process for replacing the turbo does not have steps for draining oil or coolant before the work. It does have steps after for checking the oil and coolant levels.

The workshop manual states: "If the radiator, heat exchanger, cylinder head or head seal or cylinder block were replaced, do not reuse used coolant." I know they put back the old coolant after doing my timing chain job at the dealership. The coolant pump R&R steps do not mention requiring new coolant.