B8.5 A4 Oil Consumption...Another Thread. 130k Miles

[Gerthex]

Hey Guys, Unfortunately my A4 has started to eat a lot of oil.

I have had my car from 50k miles to 130k miles and it has been pretty great. I noticed maybe 20 or 30k miles ago it started to eat some oil between oil changes, noticing about a quart low when changing my oil. Gradually this amount keeps climbing. At first I had to add a quart between oil changes, then that doubled, now it seems to be every 500 or so miles. I have noticed a loss in power recently but still pulls okay.
My car is a 2014 Audi A4 2.0T 6spd manual with a stage 1 tune with no codes.

Around 80k miles I was chasing a misfire due to some Brisk Multi-spark plugs:
Replaced PCV
Replaced upstream o2 (I believe upstream!)
Plugs and coils (My fix to misfire)
Carbon cleaning
Injectors
shortly after my wastegate failed and I replaced the entire turbo.

Now 130k miles, I was getting a stumble on med to heavy acceleration so I decided to replace the plugs which solved my stumble/accel issues. They were covered in oil and the boot to the coil even had some oil contamination.
The throttle body/intake has no oil contamination so the oil isnt coming from a bad turbo seal (intake side atleast).
I am unsure how to determine where oil is being burnt is coming from. Valve stem seals? Bad PCV? Piston Rings? Hot side of turbo seal?

I believe I have read the oil scrapers/rings get clogged and this is what causes oil consumption. Has any one tried seafoam in the oil of these cars? Seafoam works wonders. Has fixed noisy lifters, oil pressure issues, demoisturized diesel fuel, heck it would probably even do something if you put it in your windshield wiper reservoir (kidding of course). I had read that oil consumption was resolved in the b8.5 models but after reading numerous threads, it doesn't seem so.

Thanks in advance!

[treginginco]

I'm at 198,000 on my '13 allroad. I have an oil consumption issue that also has me stumped. I have no performance issues, I have replaced the PCV, replaced plugs, coil packs, thought an oil leak was a major contributor, but it wasn't. I run BGMOA at every oil change, I have no smoke coming out the tail. I'm going thru about a quart of oil every 850 miles.

I'm considering doing this:
https://www.bgprod.com/catalog/engin...ngine-cleaner/

https://www.bgprod.com/catalog/engin...ine-rinse-oil/

[audrobotic]

Piston rings. Known issue.

[JLAllroad]

I'm at 198,000 on my '13 allroad. I have an oil consumption issue that also has me stumped. I have no performance issues, I have replaced the PCV, replaced plugs, coil packs, thought an oil leak was a major contributor, but it wasn't. I run BGMOA at every oil change, I have no smoke coming out the tail. I'm going thru about a quart of oil every 850 miles.

I'm considering doing this:
https://www.bgprod.com/catalog/engin...ngine-cleaner/

https://www.bgprod.com/catalog/engin...ine-rinse-oil/

I saw the YouTube video when this was done on a VW, it worked, but it was extreme, I would never suggest it to anyone that wasn’t prepared to swap or rebuild.

That said, my GF picked up a ‘17 3.0T 4M Q7 with 105k miles that had lived a life of Audi 10k OCI’s. The first two changes with 5-40 LM burned at a rate of 3L per 5k, upon some research, like the 2.0T, these will burn oil. First they try the pcv then drop the engine for pistons rings, this is $8-$15k depending.

This is where one becomes pissed off as the 3.0T is the “reliable one” and after 8 years how could they screw them up? The CREC even has dual injection, so no need to worry about carbon deposits.

At this point of my research I stumbled across this.

https://youtu.be/CZhV0Qv1lps

After two 5k changes with decent oil I figured I needed to try something else, enter LM engine flush, used as per the directions and….about 1.3L in 5k, no other changes.

I’m doing another flush tomorrow to see if there’s any more to be gained but I would consider it a win versus adding 2L and then being on the light at the oil change.

I will note, that after the first change I’ve been using an extractor, with the rear of the vehicle elevated, will never do it any other way.IMG_8771.jpg


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[lhlan]

On the bright side, the issue hasn't shown up as early as other version did in the vehicle life.

Your car has had over 100k miles trouble free in relation to oil consumption, which is impressive in its own right.

Mine (1.8) is only now 70k miles, so I expect 30k miles more of smooth operations.

[Gerthex]

I saw the YouTube video when this was done on a VW, it worked, but it was extreme, I would never suggest it to anyone that wasn’t prepared to swap or rebuild.

That said, my GF picked up a ‘17 3.0T 4M Q7 with 105k miles that had lived a life of Audi 10k OCI’s. The first two changes with 5-40 LM burned at a rate of 3L per 5k, upon some research, like the 2.0T, these will burn oil. First they try the pcv then drop the engine for pistons rings, this is $8-$15k depending.

This is where one becomes pissed off as the 3.0T is the “reliable one” and after 8 years how could they screw them up? The CREC even has dual injection, so no need to worry about carbon deposits.

At this point of my research I stumbled across this.

https://youtu.be/CZhV0Qv1lps

After two 5k changes with decent oil I figured I needed to try something else, enter LM engine flush, used as per the directions and….about 1.3L in 5k, no other changes.

I’m doing another flush tomorrow to see if there’s any more to be gained but I would consider it a win versus adding 2L and then being on the light at the oil change.

I will note, that after the first change I’ve been using an extractor, with the rear of the vehicle elevated, will never do it any other way.IMG_8771.jpg


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I also have an oil extractor and its the bees knees... Unfortunately it does not work on the GF car.

As far as the oil consumption goes I guess I will try some of these engine cleaners. I am fine with it burning some oil just not the rate it is currently at.

If all else fails, I will pull my engine and rebuild it unless I find another vehicle that is calling my name. I could also do the timing chain while I am there too but it is all costly...

[Gerthex]

I thought they had fixed the ring issue for b8.5s? I guess they just delayed the oil consumption....sucks.

What is the difference between black top and white top PCVs? I believe my car had a white top on it prior to me swapping and I didn't realize there was a difference and threw on a black top. Not much oil in the PCV tube to intake manifold though, only minor residual.

[Theiceman]

bottom line, engine needs complete rebuild with pistons and rings.
8.5 engine uses same rings..
rebuild it or dump car.

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[DrGER]

I thought they had fixed the ring issue for b8.5s? I guess they just delayed the oil consumption....sucks.

What is the difference between black top and white top PCVs? I believe my car had a white top on it prior to me swapping and I didn't realize there was a difference and threw on a black top. Not much oil in the PCV tube to intake manifold though, only minor residual.

What @iceman said -- do your research and you'd see this is still kind of crap shoot with this 2.0T engine, though more frequent engine oil changes with proper spec oil seems to delay the onset of symptoms (and helps reduce timing chair wear/stretch).
Re the PCV, your later 2.0T engine uses the white cap PCV, currently p/n 06H103495AK.
Alas, our '14 A4Q 6MT is starting to use more oil between 5K mile changes, so a rebuild may be in our future (unless we can find a B9 6MT for under 30K!). --g

[Gerthex]

bottom line, engine needs complete rebuild with pistons and rings.
8.5 engine uses same rings..
rebuild it or dump car.

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I can do the rebuild. What is the recommended manufacturer to go for stock pistons with the oil fix?
Thanks

- - - Updated - - -

What @iceman said -- do your research and you'd see this is still kind of crap shoot with this 2.0T engine, though more frequent engine oil changes with proper spec oil seems to delay the onset of symptoms (and helps reduce timing chair wear/stretch).
Re the PCV, your later 2.0T engine uses the white cap PCV, currently p/n 06H103495AK.
Alas, our '14 A4Q 6MT is starting to use more oil between 5K mile changes, so a rebuild may be in our future (unless we can find a B9 6MT for under 30K!). --g

Do you know the difference between the black and the white cap other than color? It seems to be working as the car runs fine after I switched some 40k miles ago.

[silver_tt]

Use the OE pistons. Here is a rebuild thread for your engine. Job is about $6k if you use an indy but may be closer to $7k in NYC:
https://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...th-parts-lists

The difference between the black and white caps is the crankcase vacuum (and computer has to be flashed for it). Just buy parts using your VIN and you don't need to worry about stuff like this.

[Theiceman]

I bought from an OE Audi parts supplier and didn't put any chineese or eBay parts in my engine.
audipartsonline.com or some variation of that


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[Gerthex]

Use the OE pistons. Here is a rebuild thread for your engine. Job is about $6k if you use an indy but may be closer to $7k in NYC:
https://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...th-parts-lists

The difference between the black and white caps is the crankcase vacuum (and computer has to be flashed for it). Just buy parts using your VIN and you don't need to worry about stuff like this.

Is there a website where I can enter my VIN to see what the car came with? It was so long ago I believe I had the white cap but may be remembering wrong. Thanks

I Pulled the oil cap off the engine today there was very little restriction compared to the previous PCV.

[silver_tt]

Contact your local Audi dealer and give them your VIN and they can tell you right away. If you buy parts from audiusaparts they are a dealer and take your VIN at checkout to make sure it’s a match

[DrGER]

Is there a website where I can enter my VIN to see what the car came with? It was so long ago I believe I had the white cap but may be remembering wrong.

If you say your A4 is MY2014, the spec oil separator is white cap 06H103495AK -- reference: https://audi.7zap.com/en/usa/audi+a4...103-103025/#16

But @silver_tt is correct: call your local VAG parts counter and confirm with the VIN. --g

[New 2014 A4]

bottom line, engine needs complete rebuild with pistons and rings.
8.5 engine uses same rings..
rebuild it or dump car.
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So, rebuild using the same ring design as failed? Or was a new design introduced at some point? If the latter, when where?

[Theiceman]

if you order new pistons from Audi or with Audi part number you will get waffle ring pistons .
I don't want to say new design.. lol.. back to what worked for decades
. look for a thread 8.5 refresh. tons of info and pictures.

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[lhlan]

I thought they had fixed the ring issue for b8.5s? I guess they just delayed the oil consumption....sucks.

What is the difference between black top and white top PCVs? I believe my car had a white top on it prior to me swapping and I didn't realize there was a difference and threw on a black top. Not much oil in the PCV tube to intake manifold though, only minor residual.

What is your engine code? In understand that in North America, even some 8.5s up to 2014 were still equipped with Gen 2 EA888.

[JLAllroad]

What is your engine code? In understand that in North America, even some 8.5s up to 2014 were still equipped with Gen 2 EA888.

NA B8.5 = gen2, through ‘16


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[lhlan]

NA B8.5 = gen2, through ‘16


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What a bummer. They could have installed gen 3 engine (code CNDC) and pushed the oil burning bomb even further.

[audrobotic]

If you’re ever in Poland these guys will wash your whole engine. lol.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=EGH4dKORX44

[Seacoaster]

+1 for berrymans B12 piston soak. I bought my son a 15 Allroad, thought I had done my diligence, but after a week(400+_) miles, he said his oil light came on. I had already considered B12 if I were to ver run into this issue. I did the soak for 24hours 2 bottles, initial 12 hour soak, hand cranked a handful of ties, then repeat this a few more times every 2-3 hours. Started up better than I suspected, drove it for 30 minutes, changed the oil. He is currently just over 5k and his oil indicator has only moved ever so slightly. He went from a quart every 400-600 miles to almost none over 5K+ miles. I would say that is a win for $10+_. To think the women(presumably) trade this otherwise beautiful PP+ with sport package because the dealer told her it needed new pistons(I eventually got dealer service notes) and I solved it for minimal effort and expense. I have changed to Motul as well I will do 5-6K oil services(car has 135k). So far my B9 is approaching 120k and consumes no oil with 8k service intervals....

[19birel]

+1 on the LM engine flush, a friend used this on a ~140k '14 Allroad and noticed a reduction in consumption too.