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  1. #1
    Established Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    Nov 01 2013
    AZ Member #
    128033
    Location
    Pennsylvania

    Stuck/broken fuel injector

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    Hello All -

    Slowly continuing my PCV replacement project which has expanded to include carbon cleaning and fuel injector rebuild/cleaning.

    I got the slide hammer tool to remove injectors and it worked great on five of my six injectors.

    On the sixth injector (driver's front) the tabs broke off the injector that the slide hammer attachment use. I've pulled out vise grips but it seems no matter what I try I just can't get the injector to budge. Even WD-40 doesn't seem to seep down the well to loosen it up, just sits on the injector body. I don't want to destroy the injector as I likely can reuse it but I'm at the point there I think the only way to pull it will be to run a screw into the top of it with a big washer and yank on it with the slide hammer. Obviously this will destroy the injector.

    I'm hoping someone has a magic suggestion for pulling this thing out? Perhaps some kind of tool I can grip the injector with and use the slide hammer?

    Thanks.

  2. #2
    Senior Member Three Rings LowKeyLoki's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 28 2021
    AZ Member #
    622317
    Location
    Atlanta/GA

    I’d try and use a small pry bar with some electrical tape around to protect the machined surfaces and use it as a lever to gently pry up on it near when the electrical connector sticks out.
    2014 S4 - DSG - Prestige - Volcano Red - Sport Diff. - ADS (deleted) - Bilstein B12 Kit- Stock

    2011 S4 - DSG - Prestige - Ibis White - sport diff. - IE Stage 1 ECU/TCU - DESTROYED

  3. #3
    Senior Member Three Rings JRYtheS4's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 08 2020
    AZ Member #
    563449
    Location
    NY

    I ended up having to run a screw into one of mine. Godspeed. They can be hard to get out if they're original.

    Sent from my SM-G991U1 using Audizine Forum mobile app
    2011 Audi S4 Prestige 6MT|Full ADS w/ sport diff|Meteor Grey Pearl|Black/silver alcantara|Aluminum trim
    Bone stock except intake

  4. #4
    Senior Member Four Rings
    Join Date
    Jun 08 2021
    AZ Member #
    604293
    Location
    PA

    For what it worth wd40 is pretty useless when it comes to stuck parts. Try the old acetone and atf. It really does work

  5. #5
    Established Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    Nov 01 2013
    AZ Member #
    128033
    Location
    Pennsylvania

    To follow up, I finally got the little bastard out.

    What finally worked was using vise grips to rotate it just a fraction to loosen it enough to get some fluid down the side of the well. I switched off between brake clean and PB blaster, let it soak, then worked it rotationally. Eventually it became loose so I then started working it back and forth while lifting, again putting more fluid in and giving it time to work.

    Trying to pull on it with the vise grips was useless as the tool would simply slip right up when a fair amount of force was applied. I tried to clamp down the vise grips with the impact drive to tighten them up then run the slide hammer on the end of the vise grips but that just took parts of the plastic off the injector.

    Good news is that doesn't appear to be any damage to the block - a few scratches around the injector well from the steel tools but they won't impact anything. The injector well has some gunk it in so I used a Q-tip soaked in brake clean to work on cleaning it. It will need some more work but I want to be careful here what could fall down into the combustion chamber.

    Thanks!

  6. #6
    Veteran Member Three Rings
    Join Date
    Nov 12 2009
    AZ Member #
    50628
    My Garage
    2012 S4, 90 VW Corrado
    Location
    Louisville, KY

    I'm dealing with this same problem of a stuck injector. Four came out fine, the fifth was like the OPs in that I was able to get it loose and get fluid in there and it eventually came out. But the last one won't budge. PB Blaster / Kroil / etc. just sits on the top and never goes anywhere. The plastic has broken off and I just have a metal stem sticking out. I've been able to put a screw with some washers in it which allows me to use the slide hammer tool connected to the washers but it still won't budge. A pry bar under the washers isn't getting anywhere either, the screw slightly bends and it slips off. Any advice on how to get this sucker out is appreciated.

    IMG_1807.jpg
    2005 A4 USP (Gone)
    2012 S4

  7. #7
    Established Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    Nov 01 2013
    AZ Member #
    128033
    Location
    Pennsylvania

    Quote Originally Posted by CardFan View Post
    I'm dealing with this same problem of a stuck injector. Four came out fine, the fifth was like the OPs in that I was able to get it loose and get fluid in there and it eventually came out. But the last one won't budge. PB Blaster / Kroil / etc. just sits on the top and never goes anywhere. The plastic has broken off and I just have a metal stem sticking out. I've been able to put a screw with some washers in it which allows me to use the slide hammer tool connected to the washers but it still won't budge. A pry bar under the washers isn't getting anywhere either, the screw slightly bends and it slips off. Any advice on how to get this sucker out is appreciated.

    IMG_1807.jpg
    For me, getting fluids down the side of the injector where they could be effective was the big challenge. Once I could get the injector to rotate a little bit then fluid started getting down there and it was just a matter of time.

    I had found (but not used) a Liqui Moly product but I don’t know if it will help you. See https://www.liqui-moly.com/en/pro-line-injektoren-und-gluehkerzenloeser-p003678.html#3379

  8. #8
    Active Member Four Rings SwankPeRFection's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 05 2013
    AZ Member #
    120364
    Location
    N/A

    Get yourself a drill that has an adjustable screw/driver clutch on it, not just a drill setting. Engage the drill jaws on the injector tube still sticking out and tighten it down so it won’t rotate on it but stay. Put the clutch on whatever setting it takes to click a lot but not actually twist in your hand and lay on the trigger. What you’re trying to go for is the vibration of the drill twisting and giving way to help work the injector loose. Kinda like what you’d do with a power ratchet with a stuck bolt. It’ll probably take a bit and you’ll any to put oil around so it can seep in there as the vibration happens. Hopefully it’s enough to work it loose. Hope that makes sense as to what I’m taking about. Really, anything that can accomplish this same principal should work.

  9. #9
    Veteran Member Four Rings
    Join Date
    Mar 31 2008
    AZ Member #
    27118
    My Garage
    eS-4
    Location
    CAL*SO

    happened to me... this works! get the vice grip and slide hammer from harbor freight and instead of welding, just thread the threaded bar into the vice grip tightner thingy
    Attached Images
    The same throttle body and corn toon as everyone else.
    A ported blower and the mega bitch pulley.
    Lots of water and wheels lighter than my bank account.

  10. #10
    Veteran Member Three Rings
    Join Date
    Nov 12 2009
    AZ Member #
    50628
    My Garage
    2012 S4, 90 VW Corrado
    Location
    Louisville, KY

    Quote Originally Posted by slykens View Post
    For me, getting fluids down the side of the injector where they could be effective was the big challenge. Once I could get the injector to rotate a little bit then fluid started getting down there and it was just a matter of time.

    I had found (but not used) a Liqui Moly product but I don’t know if it will help you. See https://www.liqui-moly.com/en/pro-li...3678.html#3379
    I ran across that as well, but I didn't try to find any as I haven't been having luck getting fluid in there.

    Quote Originally Posted by SwankPeRFection View Post
    Get yourself a drill that has an adjustable screw/driver clutch on it, not just a drill setting. Engage the drill jaws on the injector tube still sticking out and tighten it down so it won’t rotate on it but stay. Put the clutch on whatever setting it takes to click a lot but not actually twist in your hand and lay on the trigger. What you’re trying to go for is the vibration of the drill twisting and giving way to help work the injector loose. Kinda like what you’d do with a power ratchet with a stuck bolt. It’ll probably take a bit and you’ll any to put oil around so it can seep in there as the vibration happens. Hopefully it’s enough to work it loose. Hope that makes sense as to what I’m taking about. Really, anything that can accomplish this same principal should work.
    I tried this but the stud for the intake manifold is in the way and started to bend. Is that stud easy to remove and replace?

    Quote Originally Posted by Fresh.S4 View Post
    happened to me... this works! get the vice grip and slide hammer from harbor freight and instead of welding, just thread the threaded bar into the vice grip tightner thingy
    I picked up the harbor freight slide hammer and have this setup to use now, but no luck so far. I can get a few good hits in before the pliers slide off, probably because the top injector piece is nice and deformed / uneven at this point. Still putting Kroil in there every so often and it does seem to be disappearing after a while. Going to keep at this for a while and hopefully it loosens up soon.

    Appreciate all the suggestions.
    2005 A4 USP (Gone)
    2012 S4

  11. #11
    Veteran Member Four Rings
    Join Date
    Mar 31 2008
    AZ Member #
    27118
    My Garage
    eS-4
    Location
    CAL*SO

    Mine was deformed too. Reclamp at a different angle and as close to the base of the metal as possible and make sure you clamp it HARD. I'd avoid putting lube or anything because that might make the teeth slip.
    Just keep at it.
    The same throttle body and corn toon as everyone else.
    A ported blower and the mega bitch pulley.
    Lots of water and wheels lighter than my bank account.

  12. #12
    Veteran Member Three Rings
    Join Date
    Nov 12 2009
    AZ Member #
    50628
    My Garage
    2012 S4, 90 VW Corrado
    Location
    Louisville, KY

    Quote Originally Posted by Fresh.S4 View Post
    Mine was deformed too. Reclamp at a different angle and as close to the base of the metal as possible and make sure you clamp it HARD. I'd avoid putting lube or anything because that might make the teeth slip.
    Just keep at it.
    Wiped it down, grabbed it from a different angle and it held. Got it out. Thanks!
    2005 A4 USP (Gone)
    2012 S4

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