0b5 Mechatronic question? HELP

[my4dmin]

2011 Audi A5 Sportback 2.0TFSi Quattro DSG-7speed transmission.

In short: We changed mech circuit board with 3 solenoids (N472, N440, N436). Car still have (all problem starts with same) transmission warning and only even gears available. Became bit better like it can driveable. (not driveable before)
Question is what happens if not aligning the gear forks in neutral position while assembling back? Only thing me and my friend forgot to do is aligning gear forks. We pull out mech unit swapped parts and put it back. forks are same position before and goes back into it.
So was that the problem still there?? is it fixable if do computer adaption and solenoid adaption thing?

Long story:
On 2021-Dec-20th got an gearbox malfunction msg on dash while driving at traffic jam. Odd gears out, only even gears were available. Slowly driven to home, around 8miles. Few days later tries to go near service around 1mile away. Almost arriving destination there was slight steep road like 25-33 angle incline. When droving up to uphill car shakes a lot like gears going in an out multiple times (tried to put in 1st but cant i guess). Then bad thing happened car lost all gears like when put gas on throttle it just roars no were to move. Lost even gears and reverse also. Cannot reached the destination, i managed to turnaround to downhill way stopped there around 20 min, start the car and put in D then even gears available again I go back to home (it was late, service was closed). Upon arriving home gear box makes loud noise like shaking many loose metal plates (I think that not enough pressure made on clutch friction plates) and no gears not driveable since then. Cant get fixed until this week (bcos of covid border closed, quarantine etc).
Bought an 0b5 mechatronics repair kit (2 circuit boards with 3 solenoids) from amazon. Tried to swap it with my friend. We did it around 2hours. Only thing we forgot to do is aligning the forks into neutral position.
After swaping things car got same error but it can driveable again like when all shit starts back in 2021. So i my question is that not aligning fork is causing problem ? or should I need to adaption procedure with computer?
Feel free ask questions and give me advice thank you.

[my4dmin]

Quick update: So my friend and I borrow Launch x431 V pro diagnostic computer to reset the transmission computer. Tried to adaptation process but no luck due to extremly low battery voltage. Tried few things but error was low battery voltage cannot continue etc. But somehow odd gears available, all gears available but changing 1to2 3to4 5 to6 and reverse was bit mis aligned kind of shuddering occurs when shift (hard going into gear). Next thing planning to do is change the battery first then do adaptation processes. Hope it will fix everything.
Also want to say a thing, DIY mechatronic unit circuit and solenoid is not that much hard, if you know car mechanics then its quiet normal process to do. Also want to mention https://andybucks5.blogspot.com/2020...it-repair.html Andy's mech unit repair step by step guide. Its well written very detailed guide. Will update here, what happened after battery change. Thanks

[my4dmin]

Update: Got new problem :(
So I replaced the battery and tried adaptation processes.

Step by Step Clutch Adaptation:

For best success rate, the transmission temp should be at 50°C (should work between 40°C and 60°C. This can be monitored through VCDS --Module auto trans-02 -Adv. measuring values - Trans. temp.

Step 1: With the car keyed on, loaded up the module auto trans-02 and go to basic settings-04. select the drop down window and select the text "Erase counter for start and stop processes" select "go" and wait until the text "finished correctly" appears. Select "stop", then select "done, go back" so it redirects you to the main auto trans module screen.

Step 2: Start the car and leave it in park. You should still have the module Auto trans-02 open, so select basic settings-04 and proceed to the drop down window. Find the text, "Clutch valve calibration" and select "go". Wait for the text "finished correctly" and hit "stop", but do not close out of the basic setting module yet.

Step 3: In the drop down window fine the text, "Distance sensor calibration" and select "go". This should take a minute and you will hear your transmission making noise. Wait for the text "finished correctly", select "stop" and "done, go back" to the auto trans-02 module. Back out to the main VCDS screen showing all of the modules once you are ready to start step 4. Turn the car off at this time.
If at any time step 1-3 fails/ faults out, you will need to start over again at step 1. Once these three steps are complete, move onto step 4 and 5.

Step 4: Key the car on and loaded up the module auto trans-02 and go to basic settings-04. Find the text, "Reset start point adaptation to the factory setting" and select "go". Wait for the text, "finished correctly" and hit "stop", but do NOT back out of the module!

Step 5: While still in the basic settings-04 module, start your car and leave it in park. In the drop down window find the text, "Clutch engagement point adaptation" and hit "go". Wait until it says "finished correctly", select "stop", "done, go back" and you will be back at the auto trans-02 module home screen.
If at any time step 4 or 5 fails/ faults out, you will need to start over again at step 4. Once these two steps are complete, move onto step 6.

Step 6: Clear all fault codes and you are ready to drive to adapt the clutches! This will take between 1 and 3 hours to do so. Make sure not to push the car hard while adapting the clutches. If you choose, you can monitor the status via Auto Trans-02 - Adv measure values - and find the text, "adaptation status of the engagement point clutch 1" and "adaptation status of the engagement point clutch 2". These can be monitored and will display "completed" when the adaptation is done.
You have now completed the full clutch adaptation!

Did step by step with this guide, step 1 is always gives module or something not available error. Clutch valve calibration was exited due to safety reasons. other 3 was done succesful. And when test drive it, it became okay. smooth shift everything was OK.
And doing step-6 which is driving around looking adaptation stats, when trans fluid temp goes 90C and up 1,2 gears shifts badly, car doesnt want to down shift at all. 3rd gear 15km/h speed, and then when full stop it bangs in to 2nd and 1st gears. After got few hard slam and hard shakes it manages to go in 1st gear. I slowly drives back to garage. Then got new gearbox malfunction error P17D6 Clutch 1 pressure too high. If someone know about this code pin point me to what to repair/replace. I need to decide try rebuild mech unit again or save some money and buy new trans :(

[hahnmgh63]

Did you follow this procedure when doing the adaption?
http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index...rbox_(DSG/0B5)
I know having it in the correct temperature range is important and at the end when going on the drive you can do it while monitoring the adaption for completion or just checking it when you get home but it can take a couple of hours to complete. It can still complete if you drive for an hour, stop, and then later go out for another drive, doesn't have to be completed all at once. And it is good to let it shift up and down through the gears in Auto and then manually shift up and down through the gears. Some of both.

[my4dmin]

Did you follow this procedure when doing the adaption?
http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index...rbox_(DSG/0B5)
I know having it in the correct temperature range is important and at the end when going on the drive you can do it while monitoring the adaption for completion or just checking it when you get home but it can take a couple of hours to complete. It can still complete if you drive for an hour, stop, and then later go out for another drive, doesn't have to be completed all at once. And it is good to let it shift up and down through the gears in Auto and then manually shift up and down through the gears. Some of both.

yes I followed that one and other one exactly 2 times each almost :)) same cant perform start stop counter reset and valve calibration. Distance and clutch engagement point adaptations are succeed. also "Reset start point adaptation to the factory setting" succeed.
And yeah I just test-driven to try to engage each gear for that I need to go highway kind of road, while monitoring the adaptation status. Not meant to drive straight 2-3hours, but still it took 1-1.5 hours to go and back. During test drive I put sport mode and manual mode switching gears. All seems went very well until oil temp reaches 90C+, when oil temp high it slams to 1st and 2nd. 3,4,5,6,7 are fine. On red light stop it slams few times and car shuts off, I restarts car but it still cant engage in 1st then got new gearbox malfunction error P17D6 Clutch 1 pressure too high.
I;m confused now. Next time I plan to change all of the solenoids of mech unit. Planing to try this one or this one

[hahnmgh63]

I've got to say that both of those packages from Amazon are Chinese units and not known for reliable quality. Amazon isn't a good place to buy many OEM type autoparts, including NGK spark plugs, known to be counterfeit sellers selling NGK spark plugs on Amazon, NGK even has a page on their website dedicated to it. And DL501 parts from a Chinese company have to be suspect as the original parts are mostly made in Germany or the United States by Borg Warner for Volkswagen Auto Group.

[my4dmin]

I've got to say that both of those packages from Amazon are Chinese units and not known for reliable quality. Amazon isn't a good place to buy many OEM type autoparts, including NGK spark plugs, known to be counterfeit sellers selling NGK spark plugs on Amazon, NGK even has a page on their website dedicated to it. And DL501 parts from a Chinese company have to be suspect as the original parts are mostly made in Germany or the United States by Borg Warner for Volkswagen Auto Group.

Thanks for advice :)
I cant pinpoint what the cause is so try cheaper parts to test what might be the problem.

Not related to this post but when buying clothes from designers store it came Made in China ahahaha.
Almost 60-70% things I buy from USA came in Made in vietnam or china. I bet your iphone is made in china too :) xD hehe just saying ..

[my4dmin]

Update:
So the previous problem was not fixed I opened my transmission once again yesterday.
My transmission was filled with some weird black fine dusty thing (like coal dust) it sat on the bottom mostly. None magnetic! The outer filter was filled with that black thing it was changed only 200-300kms before.
So I cleaned everything. Measured all the solenoids with a multimeter and found out that N472 solenoid is way off than recommended value, swapped back to old N472 solenoid which I think it was ok.
Also measured my old changed solenoids and circuit board, all the solenoids are fine I guess (I know only checking oms is does not say that solenoid is working. it needs to be checked with proper machine). Circuit board continuity check N440 N471 solenoid lines are broken.
Also put pressure air into outer filter 1 line got around 300-400grams of very gunky kind of oil from front cooler line. It was recommended local service mechanic, so I tried. Also, try empty out mech unit old oil cleaned as much as possible. Put transmission side gear fork like thing into N position (it was hard) then mech unit side forks are was unable to put 28mm or 32mm-s (found these 2 numbers from Andy's mech unit repair guide mentioned above. My mech unit fork fully extended around 30mm-ish and transmission side fork is in middle position so no chance, ended up with eyeballing the first fork position holding mech unit into a gearbox, then measure it put other forks same length it was around 18-20mm. Then put back all thing filled with fresh transmission fluid, a new outer filter. Inner filter I can't changed cannot find it locally so just put back the old one again which was changed 200-300km before.
All went well, but still unable to do a proper adaptation process,
"Erase counter for start and stop processes" my car does not have start stop function so it cannot be done.
"Clutch valve calibration" exited due to safety reasons
"Distance sensor calibration" done
"Reset start point adaptation to the factory setting" done
"Clutch engagement point adaptation" done

after all of that things are almost same before gears in an out tcu try to recalibrate things I guess. Only thing I noticed is even above 80-90C gearbox fluid temp I have managed to drive it. It wasn't like this when the fluid temp is above 90C almost no gear at all, car just revs but never move. So it is a bit of an improvement. I will drive it today try to adaptation broke in. will update this post later again. Thanks for reading.

[hahnmgh63]

Sounds like the only place that material could come from inside the transmission would be the clutches. And the K1 clutch controls the odd gears, K2 controls the even. Might be a catastrophic failure of one or more of your K1 clutch plates that gave you that material and caused you to lose the odd gears. I think you're going to have to inspect those clutches, not easy to get at for sure. How many miles/kilometers on the car/transmission?

[my4dmin]

Sounds like the only place that material could come from inside the transmission would be the clutches. And the K1 clutch controls the odd gears, K2 controls the even. Might be a catastrophic failure of one or more of your K1 clutch plates that gave you that material and caused you to lose the odd gears. I think you're going to have to inspect those clutches, not easy to get at for sure. How many miles/kilometers on the car/transmission?

while mech unit was taken out, I tried to see a small space opening on the outer clutch plates and it looks pretty well. If see closely I can see a clutch plate groove kind of thing. the car has around 198k kilometers.
quick update: I drive it last hour and the odd gear adaptation is broken in. Even gears are still synchronizing. Downshift 2 to 1 is a bit slamming hope it will be good when even gears are brake in.
The thing I noticed is if I drive in even gears it will adapt odd gears, if I drive in odd gears it will adapt even gears. Also, seems like if the oil temp is above 75-80C adaptation process is stuck. seems only adapt the 40-75C oil temp range.
I hope next drive season I can brake in even gears.

[low_and_scrape]

Maybe i have similar problem, i replaced cluthes and did adaption and everything with VCDS and everything was fine until a was driving around (slow speed and red light) so it maybe got little bit warm( like yours) and started bang into gears even stall, i lost 1,3,5,7 and drive in second gear home

I think problem is ATF because i didnt put there oem oil and in high temperature it cam have different viscosity. And because everything was basically fine with my transmission ( i did get P17D6 but only when driving aggressive high revs and fast shifting) but when i change oil for new not oem oil it when only downhill with my car..
It did burn cluchtes so i changed them, thats why i was replacing clutches.

I hope we can somehow together repair our cars

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