
Originally Posted by
xdewhy
Yes, this car already had the marks there before I bought the car (1.5 years ago) guess then it started to rust over time and I only noticed a couple days ago.
The rust is located on the passenger side right wheel arch, right in the middle of the wheel well.
My plan is to bandaid fix it for now and try to prevent further damage for a couple years.
So that's the REAR wheel arch (quarter panel), and yes that is really bad. Basically, that is the outer "skin" panel, inside the wheel well it wraps around the inner panel edge. So based on the bubbles the inner panel is almost certainly rusting out as well requiring replacement of it as well. The only cure for rust is to replace the panel, you are talking about easily a $8k-9k job depending on the local rate for body and paint work.
The problem with the bandaid is rust is not just a surface problem, it is in the metal (again, cancer) so even once you remove the rust you can see it continues to grow inside the metal under the repair. In this case you can't even pretend to attack the rust since it is at that double panel seam in the wheel arch. I promise you there is rust between the two panels.
So, to slow it down and prevent the bubbles becoming a full blown hole in a year or two you can sand down the paint and feather down to bare metal, remove all the rust you can see. The issue is once you do this you WILL have some small holes already (that's what those bubbles are), so you will have to fill them after you treat the metal as well. You will want to sand the rust on the inside panel flange as well and apply the anti-rust coating there too. Then cover the bare metal with a product like POR15, make sure to get into those tiny holes it might even lightly fill some of them. Then use a high quality body filler to fill in the rest of the holes, this is NOT a proper repair method principally called "cave and pave", body filler should never normally be spread more than 1/8" thick but again, this is a temp repair at best. Sand that, apply primer, then apply color coat, then apply clear coat. Since you likely will not be taking off the bumper, tail light, ect and applying the clear to an edge either there will be either a noticeable line where you mask off the clear, melting or blending the clear coat is a pretty advanced method for avoiding this but you can wet sand the area and polish it and should look decent (better than rust bubbles anyway).
If that broad description of the task ahead of you did not scare you off it will take you the better part of a day or two and will need to make a shadetree paint booth in a garage with drop clothes at least.
If all of that sounded daunting, visit some body shops for quotes, not all body shops will even tackle rust repair due to repair quality and warranty but certainly will find some that will. Will likely still be $2-3k, and it might buy you a few years before the bubbles come back depending on where you live (cut it in half if you live and drive where they use salt in the winter).
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