For anyone curious, here is an explanation of why the symptoms appear as they do, at least in the RS6/RS7, and what to do if it happens (last paragraph if that is all you care about). Other Audi vehicles using the 48v system may be a little different. This isn’t a description of why the alternator fails, but when it fails why things happen as they do and what to do.
Background of how the system operates:
The only way that the engine can generate electrical power is through the 48v belt starter generator (“BSG”). The BSG only has 48v windings and there is no other 12v charging system directly attached to the engine. The vehicle has two discrete DC power system, one operating at 48v and one running at 12v. There is a 48v battery under the trunk directly attached to the BSG and a DC-DC converter. The DC-DC converter is pretty powerful and is used to charge a relatively small (for the size of vehicle) 12v battery. I think it is a 68ah 12v battery. The DC-DC converter is actually bi-directional meaning that it can convert 48v to 12v or step 12c up to 48v. This is important because it means that a normal 12v charger will charge the 48v battery, but the DC-DC converter will not feed the 48v battery until the 12v battery is 100% full.
The only thing that is connected to the 48v system is the BSG, the 48v battery, and the DC-DC converter. There are NO OTHER 48v systems in the car. On other Audi models the 48v system may have things like active suspension or the AC on the 48v system, but not the C8 RS6/RS7. This means that everything in the vehicle is run off of the 12v system with a relatively small battery. This battery is always being charged by the DC-DC converter. I think it is something like a 100 amp fuse between the two, so the DC-DC converter can send some serious power to the 12v battery.
Once the BSG stops working there is no longer any ability for the engine to generate electrical power. The DC-DC converter will continue to supply power to the 12v battery as it depletes the 48v battery. Once the voltage of the 48v battery packs drops below a certain voltage the DC-DC converter will stop supplying the 12v system. The system realizes this and starts to shed 12v power draws as much as possible. This is why we get the “Christmas tree” of warnings as the system turns off all these system to save power. Since the 12v battery is relative small, it doesn’t last very long. About 30 minutes of driving it seems.
The vehicle does have a “normal” 12v starter on the flex plate in addition to the 48v BSG. The 12v starter is used to start the engine when the oil temp is below 45C (about 113F), so as long as the 12v battery has enough juice, you can start the car. You can also “supplement” the on-board 12v battery with a jump pack to give you more time. When charging the 12v battery, DO NOT connect the charger to the 12v battery itself. This will confuse the car. Only use the charging posts under the hood. There is a shunt installed on the negative terminal of the 12v battery that monitors current in and out of the battery. If the charger is connected to the battery itself, the car will only see current going out, and not back in. By connecting a charger to the charging posts under the hood, the car will see current going back into the 12v battery.
If you have this failure, you can drive for a little bit (maybe up to 30 minutes) and then you need to charge the 12v battery back up. This can be done with another car and jumper cables, a large lead acid jump pack (I wouldn’t use one of the lithium jump packs for this since they are not designed for sustained high-current discharge), or a standard 12v charger. If possible, don’t shut off the engine. It technically can start with the BSG failed, but I don’t know if the computers will let it. Repeated this process will allow you to drive the car as far as you need to in order to get it to the dealer.
What to Do if This Happens:
So if this happens to you, plan A is head straight to the dealership if you are close and do not turn off the car until you get there. If you are more than 20 minutes from the dealership Plan B is to call a buddy and have them come meet you ASAP with jumper cables. You need to charge back up the 12v battery before it dies. You can “hop-scotch” along depleting then charging the 12v battery 20 minutes at a time until you get to the dealer. Plan C is to find the closest service station or parts store (like an AutoZone) with a high amp charger. Hook it up right as you get there and let the 12v battery fully charge back up. Repeat plan A, B, or C as necessary.
Good luck,
Paul
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