2017 Q7 3.0T oil consumption

[FourRinger14]

So I bought this car new, never driven hard at all. Everything is perfect other than back seat heater element recent failure however over the years I’ve noticed slightly more oil consumption. At 87k mile now and burning a quart at every 1,500-2,000 miles, not terrible but definitely slowing increasing each year. No smoke ever and no leaks whatsoever it’s gotta be a slow constant burn. Was there still pcv problems in 2017 3.0T or could it be the rings?
If PCV, what should I expect from and Indy shop replacement cost. I assume it’s similar to earlier 3.0T needing the SC removal.

[a4lownslow]

Independent shop expect around $1000-1500 for pcv. Which is the logical place to start. Your consumption isn’t terrible yet but not promising with the lowish miles. I just bought a 2017 Q7 3.0t with 124k and it’s fouling plugs, blue smoke, and major oil consumption. Needs an engine. Did some digging online and came across other similar experiences with the 4M Q7 which uses the gen 2 3 liter. Even with strong maintenance the posts I came across a lot of others chiming in where just out of the blue 70-100k miles oil consumption shot up. Hard to believe this could be such an issue when the first gen 3.0T has been around for many years and proven to be solid overall.

Hopefully PCV fixes it for you


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[winreboot]

+1

I babied the engine since I got the car and never had any issues until low level oil light come on around 80k. I diy the pcv and waiting to see if that helped. But my question is if it's pvc, where the oil is going? I did not see any oil in coolant and if the oil is circulated in crankcase it still would windup in oil pan. So my instinct is telling me the rings wore out or it's issue like on the 4 cylinder engines where they had recall years back.

[a4lownslow]

+1

I babied the engine since I got the car and never had any issues until low level oil light come on around 80k. I diy the pcv and waiting to see if that helped. But my question is if it's pvc, where the oil is going? I did not see any oil in coolant and if the oil is circulated in crankcase it still would windup in oil pan. So my instinct is telling me the rings wore out or it's issue like on the 4 cylinder engines where they had recall years back.

The PCV valve regulates crankcase pressure and if it fails it can cause oil to be burned inside the combustion chamber. Similar to if the oil control rings fail.

How many miles were you going before the car asked you to add a quart of oil. The factory oil change interval of 10k miles is way to much.


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[winreboot]

The PCV valve regulates crankcase pressure and if it fails it can cause oil to be burned inside the combustion chamber. Similar to if the oil control rings fail.

How many miles were you going before the car asked you to add a quart of oil. The factory oil change interval of 10k miles is way to much.


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Got it, makes sense then. I got my first low level warning light about 1k miles after changing the oil. Initially I just thought the oil settled in after oil change and needed little more oil, but then I got another warning light about 3k miles later. That made me google it and found out common issue is pvc.

[FourRinger14]

So my issue has been a very slow progression, we had audicare up to 80k and did the recommended intervals, 10k oil. Wife’s car, she’s almost afraid to go WOT so totally babied other the the occasion I drove it. I’d say I went from no top offs needed first 30k then maybe a quart low at 9k, now a quart low at 1500 at 87k. Mpg is still where it was brand new, no signs of smoke even if I go WOT but just consuming oil.
I bought this car because of how bulletproof the gen 1 3.0T was in the B8.5, I have a B8.5 S4, driven rather sporty for 146k and by time for oil change only about .25 quart low (still at 10k intervals).
Mostly upset because I felt so confident with the ‘13-‘15 3.0t and this one runs great other than the consumption.

[bb-tt]

i picked up a 2018 with 36k miles for the wife it is burning a L every 3k miles. Not a happy camper!

[scmguru]

So I bought this car new, never driven hard at all. Everything is perfect other than back seat heater element recent failure however over the years I’ve noticed slightly more oil consumption. At 87k mile now and burning a quart at every 1,500-2,000 miles, not terrible but definitely slowing increasing each year. No smoke ever and no leaks whatsoever it’s gotta be a slow constant burn. Was there still pcv problems in 2017 3.0T or could it be the rings?
If PCV, what should I expect from and Indy shop replacement cost. I assume it’s similar to earlier 3.0T needing the SC removal.

I have the same issue on a 2014 Q7, wife drives it and most of her trips are really short <5 miles.

I am hearing is cars that are not driven hard / driven short distances seem to get coked up oil control rings more often.

Our oil consumption started started at ~80k miles. Scanned it, no PCV codes. No obvious signs of burning oil (smoke / sooty tail pipe etc).

Have a drip likely coming from upper timing cover + oil filter housing gasket, but nowhere near enough to match the rate of oil consumption.

Going to do a liqui moly engine flush and see if that helps any..

[Jimcoily]

My wife and I picked up 2017 Q7 3.0T with 35k in 2019. We are currently at 93k and over the last 8k I have noticed some above normal oil consumption but the last 500 miles has been excessively high (1 quart every 200 miles). Also the spark plugs less than 1 year old had all fouled because of oil buildup, but an old used set from my S4 took care of that. I replaced the PCV last month and haven’t had any oil consumption problems since. 400 mile road trip to Portland and back, oil level is the same.

[FourRinger14]

I have the same issue on a 2014 Q7, wife drives it and most of her trips are really short <5 miles.

I am hearing is cars that are not driven hard / driven short distances seem to get coked up oil control rings more often.

Our oil consumption started started at ~80k miles. Scanned it, no PCV codes. No obvious signs of burning oil (smoke / sooty tail pipe etc).

Have a drip likely coming from upper timing cover + oil filter housing gasket, but nowhere near enough to match the rate of oil consumption.

Going to do a liqui moly engine flush and see if that helps any..

Yea, report back on your results of the liquid moly. Maybe I should have driven it more often to open it up more often, I know the wife isn’t pushing it much past 3,500 rpm hardly ever.

[FourRinger14]

My wife and I picked up 2017 Q7 3.0T with 35k in 2019. We are currently at 93k and over the last 8k I have noticed some above normal oil consumption but the last 500 miles has been excessively high (1 quart every 200 miles). Also the spark plugs less than 1 year old had all fouled because of oil buildup, but an old used set from my S4 took care of that. I replaced the PCV last month and haven’t had any oil consumption problems since. 400 mile road trip to Portland and back, oil level is the same.

PCV was my hopeful thought but it has been such a slow progression of increasing consumption wasn’t sure it PCV made sense in that type of slow failure.

[elijahallen]

I keep reading about this and wonder why mine has not had any issues. 2017 Dual pulley stage 2 since 69K miles and now at 105K miles. I change oil every 6K miles and use about 1/2 quart in that time. I guess time will tell if mine will eventually have this problem.

[JoeV]

Also have this problem in mines too smh

[JWebb_C7_Comp]

Yea, report back on your results of the liquid moly. Maybe I should have driven it more often to open it up more often, I know the wife isn’t pushing it much past 3,500 rpm hardly ever.

Of pcv, would their be pressure on oil a cap when running? I noticed my wife’s Q7 (2017) is using oil now and the cap is tight if motor is running.

Pcv job looks time consuming; what it cost at an Indy??


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[a4lownslow]

Of pcv, would their be pressure on oil a cap when running? I noticed my wife’s Q7 (2017) is using oil now and the cap is tight if motor is running.

Pcv job looks time consuming; what it cost at an Indy??


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Some vacuum is normal on oil cap.

Just replaced pcv and I’m still consuming 1 quart/ 900 miles.

Expect around $1200 at an independent


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[winreboot]

Some vacuum is normal on oil cap.

Just replaced pcv and I’m still consuming 1 quart/ 900 miles.

Expect around $1200 at an independent


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+1
I thought the PCV replacement will fix it but I had to top off the oil twice already and each time around 900 miles also. I don't see any oil burning from the exhaust and PCV should be working fine. I mean what gives now, is it the piston rings?

[Gunmeister]

I have a 2019 Q7 I hope this doesn't happen to me. Has everything else been reliable l?

[scmguru]

+1
I thought the PCV replacement will fix it but I had to top off the oil twice already and each time around 900 miles also. I don't see any oil burning from the exhaust and PCV should be working fine. I mean what gives now, is it the piston rings?

I'm wondering if the PCV starts to go and then the engine burns oil, causing ring deposits? Even after PCV is fixed, those deposits are still there causing oil consumption.

[winreboot]

I'm wondering if the PCV starts to go and then the engine burns oil, causing ring deposits? Even after PCV is fixed, those deposits are still there causing oil consumption.

Good point did not thought of damage done by bad pcv if any. Since it's always around 900 miles for me too I'll add ceratec additive to see if it will offset the next 900 miles and will do their oil flush aswell when I'm up for the oil change. The car runs great and no issues other then the oil. I'm at 99k now.

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-liqui_mo...ive/20002~liq/

or this

https://www.amazon.com/Liqui-Moly-20...1zcF9hdGY&th=1

[a4lownslow]

I believe the issue is low tension piston rings. As mileage increases they no longer have the same outward pressure on cylinder walls thus allowing oil to be burned in combustion chamber. I think we will start to see a lot more of the CREC engines burning oil as mileage increases. So sad because the rest of the vehicle is amazing.


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[winreboot]

I believe the issue is low tension piston rings. As mileage increases they no longer have the same outward pressure on cylinder walls thus allowing oil to be burned in combustion chamber. I think we will start to see a lot more of the CREC engines burning oil as mileage increases. So sad because the rest of the vehicle is amazing.


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True that for sure. This is my last Audi I will ever own. Will let it ride and see how it goes. If need be I would rather change the engine but then would be faced with the issue again, just buying time. I would like to stay away from opening the engine if I can, but only time will tell. I love the car it runs great, and all audis I had before, but I'm sick and tired with being gunnie pig for VW group. Short list,
01 s4 turbo blown, and electrical problems
04 avant tranny dead,
09 avant had burning issue, engine replaced by audi under warranty, all covered, compression issues years after..
14 a6 TDI that had the least issues other then water pump, pvc, driping oil etc.. but timing chain went @165k,
18 s4 engine cam roller rocker issue, that I sold before it went bad.

All cars were bone stock, I'm car guy and did not mess with them. I have my project car that I turn upside down but those above were all taken care of. Sorry for the rant but I think this is intentional for people to get new cars. When I was younger it didn't bother me and it was excuse to get new car but at my age I just want for things to work as they intended. That engine has been in production for long time before it went to 4M for US. Timing chain tensioner I would understand, ok I get it, but piston rings, is just not acceptable after they had this issue with 4 cylinder engines. It's just nuts. I can't see it be anything else too after replacing PCV

[JWebb_C7_Comp]

I believe the issue is low tension piston rings. As mileage increases they no longer have the same outward pressure on cylinder walls thus allowing oil to be burned in combustion chamber. I think we will start to see a lot more of the CREC engines burning oil as mileage increases. So sad because the rest of the vehicle is amazing.


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Does anyone have evidence the created cleaner or motor saver helps with oil consumption? Is it worth doing proactively? Or would it be problematic??


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[clettngx]

Any other updates on this issue? It's been a few months now since this thread started.

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[winreboot]

Any other updates on this issue? It's been a few months now since this thread started.

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I started to use "Engine Restorer" and get about 200miles extra before I get warning that oil is too low. So instead of about 1000 miles it's around every 1200 miles. I give up troubleshooting it as I think it's piston rings and I'm not going to spend crazy money on 6year old car. I'll just continue to add oil and look for a second car so this pos will be less driven. I'm done with Audi, sorry for the rant but you do this to me once, ok it happens, you do this twice, ok bad luck, but you do this 3 times Audi, you think I'm stupid and will buy another car from you. It's crazy they will not acknowledge the issues.

[B8noobi3]

Going to do a liqui moly engine flush and see if that helps any..

Any update on this?

[allbizns]

I'm not sure if this helpfull info. But I'm finding a big discrepancy between my dipstic reading and the MMI. I have a factory Audi dipstick part #06E115611H. Which is supposed to be the correct one for the 3.0 supercharged engine in the 4L Q7. Mine is a 4M Q7. It's hard to believe it wouldn't be correct, but you know how that goes. Anyway, I have found that when the dipstick reads full, the MMI is just above minimum. When I add oil to get the MMI to read just under full, the level is wayyy overfull on the dipstick. If the MMI is incorrect and we are over filling the crankcase, that would create a large amount of splash/windage/aeration in my opinion. And could possibly be forcing oil up past the rings and creating the oil coaking/sticking ring situation. Just my observations. I can say at 27,000- miles my spark plugs look like crap like the are burning oil. Don't get me started on the no antisieze or lube on the plugs. It was at the dealer at 19,000- miles for a misfire and the dealer checked all the plugs, replaced one bad one , and moved on. That's a whole other story I won't get into now.

Audi just performed a 40,000-mile complimentary service on mine 3,000 miles ago with
G-E52-545-SO 0w/30 oil. The service writer said that it is all they use in every car that calls 502-504 spec oil. I plan on running Castrol 0w/40 Euro.
Anyways, the MMI was almost at full when I picked it up, and it read at the "M" of max on the dip stick. 3,000 miles later, it reads just at full on the dipstick and almost at Minimum on the MMI. So who knows which is correct. I'm going to see how long it stays around the full on the dipstick, and if it gets to min on the MMI, what it reads on the dipstick. Sorry for the rant didnt know if anyone else was tracking it this way or seeing something similar.



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[Gunmeister]

I'm not sure if this helpfull info. But I'm finding a big discrepancy between my dipstic reading and the MMI. I have a factory Audi dipstick part #06E115611H. Which is supposed to be the correct one for the 3.0 supercharged engine in the 4L Q7. Mine is a 4M Q7. It's hard to believe it wouldn't be correct, but you know how that goes. Anyway, I have found that when the dipstick reads full, the MMI is just above minimum. When I add oil to get the MMI to read just under full, the level is wayyy overfull on the dipstick. If the MMI is incorrect and we are over filling the crankcase, that would create a large amount of splash/windage/aeration in my opinion. And could possibly be forcing oil up past the rings and creating the oil coaking/sticking ring situation. Just my observations. I can say at 27,000- miles my spark plugs look like crap like the are burning oil. Don't get me started on the no antisieze or lube on the plugs. It was at the dealer at 19,000- miles for a misfire and the dealer checked all the plugs, replaced one bad one , and moved on. That's a whole other story I won't get into now.

Audi just performed a 40,000-mile complimentary service on mine 3,000 miles ago with
G-E52-545-SO 0w/30 oil. The service writer said that it is all they use in every car that calls 502-504 spec oil. I plan on running Castrol 0w/40 Euro.
Anyways, the MMI was almost at full when I picked it up, and it read at the "M" of max on the dip stick. 3,000 miles later, it reads just at full on the dipstick and almost at Minimum on the MMI. So who knows which is correct. I'm going to see how long it stays around the full on the dipstick, and if it gets to min on the MMI, what it reads on the dipstick. Sorry for the rant didnt know if anyone else was tracking it this way or seeing something similar.



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I appreciate this info.

[B8noobi3]

That is interesting. I was wondering if the oil continues to drop further down than the MMI min, will it show?

[a4lownslow]

I'm not sure if this helpfull info. But I'm finding a big discrepancy between my dipstic reading and the MMI. I have a factory Audi dipstick part #06E115611H. Which is supposed to be the correct one for the 3.0 supercharged engine in the 4L Q7. Mine is a 4M Q7. It's hard to believe it wouldn't be correct, but you know how that goes. Anyway, I have found that when the dipstick reads full, the MMI is just above minimum. When I add oil to get the MMI to read just under full, the level is wayyy overfull on the dipstick. If the MMI is incorrect and we are over filling the crankcase, that would create a large amount of splash/windage/aeration in my opinion. And could possibly be forcing oil up past the rings and creating the oil coaking/sticking ring situation. Just my observations. I can say at 27,000- miles my spark plugs look like crap like the are burning oil. Don't get me started on the no antisieze or lube on the plugs. It was at the dealer at 19,000- miles for a misfire and the dealer checked all the plugs, replaced one bad one , and moved on. That's a whole other story I won't get into now.

Audi just performed a 40,000-mile complimentary service on mine 3,000 miles ago with
G-E52-545-SO 0w/30 oil. The service writer said that it is all they use in every car that calls 502-504 spec oil. I plan on running Castrol 0w/40 Euro.
Anyways, the MMI was almost at full when I picked it up, and it read at the "M" of max on the dip stick. 3,000 miles later, it reads just at full on the dipstick and almost at Minimum on the MMI. So who knows which is correct. I'm going to see how long it stays around the full on the dipstick, and if it gets to min on the MMI, what it reads on the dipstick. Sorry for the rant didnt know if anyone else was tracking it this way or seeing something similar.



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You’re providing misinformation. There is no dipstick available for the CREC gen 2, 3 liter.

You’re using a dipstick (06E115611H) that is designed for the gen 1 engine which is why it doesn’t match up with your mmi at all.. because they different engines


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[allbizns]

No misinformation, I clearly stated the dipstick was for a gen 1 engine, and I was using it in a gen 3. I also clearly state those were just my observations, not known factual issues. Do with it what you want.

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[a4lownslow]

No misinformation, I clearly stated the dipstick was for a gen 1 engine, and I was using it in a gen 3. I also clearly state those were just my observations, not known factual issues. Do with it what you want.

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All I’m saying is you’re comparing apples to oranges so in reality the relationship between your incorrect dipstick and mmi level means nothing. Might as well use a dipstick from a 2.0T and tell us how that matches up to your mmi. See what I’m saying


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[rayray]

We have had our ‘17 Q7 3.0T from new and currently have 182k+ on the clock. I was the same putting in a quart every 400 or so with OE Castrol, but I’m around 600-700 miles now that I switched to LM Molygen. No doubt that ours is burning oil, but that’s a bit expected for our mileage as well.