My 2.0T lost compression in cylinder 3, 10k quote to fix, so I’m doing it myself

[Inev]

Car has 98k miles on it, recently replaced water pump, tires, wheel bearings, some other minor stuff. Cost me about 5500 to do all of that, and I was recently driving to Ohio from Maryland and the car started vibrating pretty horribly 180 miles into the trip.

I had my VCDS on hand so I scanned the car and had a P0303 cyl 3 misfire. Towed it to a shop who said it was a stuck open injector. I asked them how compression looked and they said they’d check if the injector was somehow not the problem.

Paid 1600 for four new injectors, and lo and behold there’s still a misfire. Shop said it had no compression in that one cylinder and the engine was “blown” and they’d replace my engine for 10k. They said with the injector stuck open, it washed the oil away from the cylinder and scarred the cylinder wall.

Audi tech said that was ludicrous and just needs new piston rings, but quoted me 11k to replace them.

I got fed up and decided to pull the engine myself.

That’s it for the setup. Now…

While it’s apart, I’m planning on replacing all the rings, getting the cylinders honed, replacing/seating the intake valves, and doing the whole lot of timing components. What else should I do while I’m in there?

Thanks!

[StuckAntichris]

Hey there, Just a heads up that this thread would get more traction in the main section. That being said, I believe that the cylinder walls have a coating on them that you should not hone as it is harder than the iron block. If you do have a scored cylinder wall how bad is it? I had an engine failure and ended up having to overbore the cylinders in order to remove the scoring. If the scoring is that bad you end up removing the coating in the process anyways.

In terms of "while you're in there" I would do a vacuum pump rebuild from RKX. Pay close attention to which one you have though as there are a few different ones on the 2.0T's. Final note about that is, the Audi gasket between the pump and the head is thicker and better quality than the one included in the RKX kit. I would use the Audi one simply because it is an absolute pain to fix a leak there if it starts leaking.

What year is your car? and what Engine code? I have a spreadsheet with all the parts I used for a 2015 CPMB that I could share with you. There are a few specific changes over the years and codes like the chain guides. I would take yours apart and confirm the part numbers before ordering.

Hope this helps some!

[Inev]

Thanks for the reply! And yeah I didn’t realize there was a main thread until I got on with my phone. I spend most of my time on a A4 B5 forums (got one of those too).

It’s a 2013 and the engine code is CPMA. I’ve almost got the engine out of the car so I don’t know how bad the scoring is (if at all) and nobody has scoped the cylinder yet.

However I got a pretty good look at the intake valves and boy are they caked up with crud. No leak down test either so maybe it’s unrelated to the injector and it’s a valve not seating right?

I ordered a micrometer to measure the taper of the cylinder. If it’s too far gone im gonna skip the hone and go straight to an 0.5mm overbore. Hoping not to however because I don’t want to replace my pistons due to cost

[Inev]

I’ll repost in the main thread and I’ll get some pictures up as well