Considering Purchasing This 2013 Q5 3.0T with 95k Miles

[Rex32]

Hello,

I'm considering jumping back into Audiland, a wonderful place to be I might add, with the purchase of a 2013 Q5 3.0T with 95k miles. I took it out for a spin and it is definitely a fun car to drive, much quicker than my last Audi - a 2009 Audi A4.

Here is a link to the dealer's site: https://www.audicapefear.com/used/Au...42446318c6.htm

I asked the dealer about PCV valve and the thermostat and neither has been replaced yet. Is there anything else I should double check on?

I've read about pano roof squeak, I didn't notice any when I drove it earlier this week but I'm not sure exactly what I'm listening for.

Any feedback would be greatly appreciated!


Thanks!

[Norskie]

If you can, check the control arm bushings.

Has the transmission fluid and filter been changed? Diff fluids?

Cold start timing chain tensioner rattle? (not that it's 'bad', but if you have the option of buying one that doesn't rattle, that would be good).

It's coming up on the next major service at 110k: SC belt and spark plugs.

[Rex32]

How much is that service gonna run me? 110k miles is a solid year out for me - I'd say I put 10,000 miles on it in the next year.

They also have a 2016 with 130k miles with a 2.0T for $13,300 so a fair bit cheaper but heavier mileage and no 3.0T.

Thoughts?


Thanks!

[Fast4esT]

Skip the 2.0, that 3.0 has low miles. The SC belt and plugs can be done with minimal mechanical skills, would guess a couple hundred at a Indy shop. Look up the carfax or even free carfox app, sometimes you can see work that has been done if the shops report it. Helps to give an idea on its history. It’s anyone’s guess when the pcv/thermostat/water pump will go, could be soon/now could be in 20,000 miles. Sunroof rattle is Not a deal break and comes out of Nowhere, it’s a nouisance, can’t miss it little knocking sounds above your head on bumps. Few repair options outside of replacement of the track, nothing is permanent lol. Most will just grease the track with a special sunroof track grease.
Guessing trans fluid is original
Tires, brakes and control arms are most common west items.
Other than these things they are solid.

[AudiA4_20T]

Most of the maintenance items can be done all at the same time, but if you're not DIY'ing there's a significant cost.

- Carbon cleaning
- PCV
- Thermostat
- Waterpump
- Supercharger Oil

And then I would get it pre-inspected for any leaks. I had valve cover gaskets, upper timing covers, motor mounts, control arms all going on me around ~95k.

[Norskie]

They also have a 2016 with 130k miles with a 2.0T for $13,300 so a fair bit cheaper but heavier mileage and no 3.0T.

Avoid the 2.0T unless you get a guarantee (from someone you trust) that it doesn't burn oil. All it's other known issues are reasonably affordable to address and then it becomes a decent economical alternative. But the 3.0T (with it's ZF8) is more fun, appears to have less issues, and considered one of Audi's best drivetrains. Also, it's a tune away from making more than SQ5 power.

[NikolaZ]

I bought mine at 114k miles and Now I am close to 127k(200k kms) I had to replace lower suspension arm on one side. I changed the oil of the gearbox. In december I did all the big stuff: PCV, Thermostat, Water Pump, changed the SC oil. Also I did change all the pipes at the front and under the charger. A guy from the shop told me there is one pipe that breaks almost every time and I missed ordering it. The Good thing is that it didn't break when they removed the Charger.

Keep in mind that at this mileage there will be a lot of carbon build up. Also the Secondary Air Injection system might be clogged. Mine is clogged and I am getting a check engine every time the car is cold. I decided it is not worth it investing a lot of money cleaning it. Audi has a special tool, but they will probably rip me off if I go there.

[Rex32]

Thanks for all the detailed replies! I recently started a new job so I'm (impatiently) waiting for my next pay stub which I'll get a week from today - March 24 - that I need to finish the deal. They won't hold it for me, even with the full downpayment which is frustrating but I suppose I wouldn't either...

My new job is at another car dealer in the service department so although I don't have to turn the wrenches myself for most work :)


So basically at the fingers crossed that no one swoops in and gets it in the next 6 days stage...

NikolaZ - what did those big repairs run you $$$ wise?


Thanks again!

[silver_tt]

At around 150K miles the 3.0s timing chains will likely need to be replaced.....which are on the back of the !@#$ engine. 15 hours labor just to get at it since either the engine needs to come out or you have to remove a ton of stuff...........

[arjun90]

For the 3.0T, the chains can last much longer. My 2010 A6 is already at 158,000 miles and barely rattles at cold start.

At around 150K miles the 3.0s timing chains will likely need to be replaced.....which are on the back of the !@#$ engine. 15 hours labor just to get at it since either the engine needs to come out or you have to remove a ton of stuff...........

[silver_tt]

I would not use rattle as the measurement. I just saw one with 150k miles that needs the chains done.

[arjun90]

I checked my Bank 1 and Bank 2 values via VCDS and still within normal limits. Definitely recommend taking your Vagcom cable with you on your search

I would not use rattle as the measurement. I just saw one with 150k miles that needs the chains done.

[NikolaZ]

Thanks for all the detailed replies! I recently started a new job so I'm (impatiently) waiting for my next pay stub which I'll get a week from today - March 24 - that I need to finish the deal. They won't hold it for me, even with the full downpayment which is frustrating but I suppose I wouldn't either...

My new job is at another car dealer in the service department so although I don't have to turn the wrenches myself for most work :)


So basically at the fingers crossed that no one swoops in and gets it in the next 6 days stage...

NikolaZ - what did those big repairs run you $$$ wise?


Thanks again!

Well I am in europe and some parts are more expensive than others, everything with labor and back rotors and pads costed around 2200$