Duralast Battery Replacement Help

[natemenezes]

I just replaced my battery with a Duracell Platinum H8 AGM battery from Autozone and I'm having a hard time reprograming the car because the battery does not have a new BEM code since its not OEM. I understand that people say that you don't have to recode, etc. but since it is a different type of battery(liquid to AGM) from what was previously in the car I feel like it is necessary. When I first installed the battery the car started right up, faster than it ever has but after that its gone back to taking a couple cranks to start. Battery voltage on my OBDEleven app shows around 13.8V to 14.9V while driving but if I put the car in accessory power mode(engine not running) it drops to 11.8V. Is this normal? Also, I tried changing one number of the serial number from the old battery in the coding menu but the battery health is still showing 0%. To those of you who have replaced your battery with a non-Audi battery, what did you do? Is the long cranking normal? I don't live in a cold area, the coldest it gets is around 55F. Seems like the car has a bit of a rough idle too, not sure if that's from low battery health. No warning lights or codes.

[JRYtheS4]

Couple winters ago I replaced my oem battery with Interstate, couldn't find a code for it and just left it. It's starting to show signs of failing already. I would advocate that you find a way to code the battery properly based on my experience.

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[natemenezes]

Couple winters ago I replaced my oem battery with Interstate, couldn't find a code for it and just left it. It's starting to show signs of failing already. I would advocate that you find a way to code the battery properly based on my experience.

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Thanks for the input. I think ive found a solution. Gonna see if Autozone will take this one back and ill just pick up an H9 AGM from Advance Auto Parts that come with a BEM code.

[wangshuo1989]

Have you tried peeling back the stickers on the battery to see if there's a BEM code behind the sticker? I just replaced my 10 year old AGM battery with a die hard H9 from advance auto parts, and the BEM code sticker was under the die hard sticker.
However, the BEM code on the die hard battery didn't work because the part number was a VW one, not an audi. I had to search for an corresponding audi part number before the car took the new code. All is well now.

[natemenezes]

Have you tried peeling back the stickers on the battery to see if there's a BEM code behind the sticker? I just replaced my 10 year old AGM battery with a die hard H9 from advance auto parts, and the BEM code sticker was under the die hard sticker.
However, the BEM code on the die hard battery didn't work because the part number was a VW one, not an audi. I had to search for an corresponding audi part number before the car took the new code. All is well now.

I actually just exchanged mine for a DieHard Battery from Advanced Auto Parts! Mine is not working either... which code did you use or how did you find one?

[Smac770]

AGM H8, just use part number 000915105CE. Or if early B8 and won't take that, use 4F0915105E (two spaces after since only one letter in the revision). The vendor and serial can be whatever, they don't impact the charging operation. But best to change the serial a bit so you can differentiate it in the history data, if you have VCDS to access it, if you ever need to reference it (also why you should reset the date/time after connecting the battery before doing the adaptation, so the history data is sensible).

Part numbers for all the wet flood vs AGM, H7 vs H8 vs H9 have been posted in the forums at one time or another.

[natemenezes]

AGM H8, just use part number 000915105CE. Or if early B8 and won't take that, use 4F0915105E (two spaces after since only one letter in the revision). The vendor and serial can be whatever, they don't impact the charging operation. But best to change the serial a bit so you can differentiate it in the history data, if you have VCDS to access it, if you ever need to reference it (also why you should reset the date/time after connecting the battery before doing the adaptation, so the history data is sensible).

Part numbers for all the wet flood vs AGM, H7 vs H8 vs H9 have been posted in the forums at one time or another.

I ended up going with an H9. I used the code 000915105CF. Is that the correct one? OBD11 is still showing 0% battery.


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[sacandagaD]

This thread might help.

https://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...ht=agm+battery

- - - Updated - - -

[Smac770]

Yes, H9 AGM is 000915105CF.

But which value are you actually looking at when you say under 12v engine off? Is that block 18, or one of the block 1 values? Do you actually measure that voltage across the battery posts? You probably need to start by putting the battery on a charger and get it back to a reasonable state of charge. And AGM should never be allowed to sit long periods under 12.0V. Put it on a real charger/tester and get it back to 12.7V 100% SoC. Then throw it in the car. 12.0V is 0% SoC. Don't try to use the car as a recovery charger.

[natemenezes]

Yes, H9 AGM is 000915105CF.

But which value are you actually looking at when you say under 12v engine off? Is that block 18, or one of the block 1 values? Do you actually measure that voltage across the battery posts? You probably need to start by putting the battery on a charger and get it back to a reasonable state of charge. And AGM should never be allowed to sit long periods under 12.0V. Put it on a real charger/tester and get it back to 12.7V 100% SoC. Then throw it in the car. 12.0V is 0% SoC. Don't try to use the car as a recovery charger.

I’m looking under 19-Gateway - live data - 019 Power Supply (battery)

[Smac770]

A measuring block, such as block 019, has four values associated with it. In the case of 19-019, three of them are % values. If it's the first one, SoC, that should be concerning. The second is irrelevant. The third and fourth should seem reasonable, but I don't bother myself with them being "accurate".

If the SoC is not 80%+, put the battery on a charger and bring it back up to full charge.

[wangshuo1989]

My die hard battery has following code:
P/N: 7P0915105D
Manufacturer code: JCB
serial 220919J0DT

If I put this in VCDS (with 2 spaces after the P/N), the car won't take it. So I went to google for help, and end up with this link: https://oemwolf.com/oem-parts/7p0915105d.html
Looks like 7P0915105D is a VW part number, and it's audi sibling is 000915105CF
So I input following following to vcds and it worked (note since the audi part number is 11 digits, there's only 1 space needed between P/N and JCB)
000915105CF JCB 220919J0DT

My car came with a 110ah battery and this die hard battery is 100ah, so I believe it's important to set the part number correctly to allow the car to charge accordingly.

[Smac770]

type 7P = second gen VW Touareg; the Audi equiv would be the first gen Q7, type 4L.

H9 AGM = 7P0 915 105 D = 4L0 915 105 = 000 915 105 CF

What your J533 accepts for an adaptation value will depend on the software loaded into it. MY MY09 A4 will not accept the generic 000 915 105 CE, but takes my original 4F0 915 105 E (H8 AGM).

[natemenezes]

This is what I am seeing. Should these be higher than 0.0%?


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[Smac770]

That's very odd, all 0s. Something certainly seems incorrect. But you have no DTCs (error codes) from that control module? I would say pull the history data, but OBDeleven cannot do that (VCDS can).

What about the values in blocks 020 and 022? No need for screen caps, just write down the four values from each of the two blocks as post text.

[JohnTong]

I’m looking under 19-Gateway - live data - 019 Power Supply (battery)

Did you find anything yet? Actually some vehicles like Audi R8 along with some rest-of-world models with Stop-Start, can have a 61 that is really a virtual module in the 19-CAN Gateway. In these cases, the new battery information is entered in 61-Battery Regulation then Adaptation Channel 004.

[Smac770]

B8 does not use a J644 BEM (address 61 - battery control). B8 uses a J367 BDM (LIN slave to J533, address 19 - CAN gateway). Adaptation and measuring blocks for battery concerns are at the J533.

[natemenezes]

020 says Power supply(battery)
2.8 mOhm
2.8 mOhm
68 ah
12.6 V

022 says Power supply(battery)
0.03
0.27
9999 Ah
4 Ah

[Smac770]

Those all look fine. If the battery is physically measuring under 12.0V (ie, with a real meter, ie does block 018 match reality), then pull it and put it on an AGM aware charger and get it back to a proper state of charge as a starting point. Starting with the battery at anything less than 100% SoC is just incorrect.

Once you have the battery charged up to a proper state, put it back in the car and confirm the meter and block 018 match. Then start the engine and confirm the meter, block 018, and block 014 match-ish. A few tenths difference between 014 and 018 is expected.

[natemenezes]

Those all look fine. If the battery is physically measuring under 12.0V (ie, with a real meter, ie does block 018 match reality), then pull it and put it on an AGM aware charger and get it back to a proper state of charge as a starting point. Starting with the battery at anything less than 100% SoC is just incorrect.

Once you have the battery charged up to a proper state, put it back in the car and confirm the meter and block 018 match. Then start the engine and confirm the meter, block 018, and block 014 match-ish. A few tenths difference between 014 and 018 is expected.

Just checked the battery with a volt meter after letting the car sit for a day or so, measured at 12.45V. So that’s good. After reading a couple threads about people talking about timing chain tensioner rattle I decided to open my hood and start my car since it had been sitting and I knew it was cold… it rattles pretty bad for a second or so… did I just get a faulty car? I feel like 36,000 miles is really low for having all of these little problems.


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[Smac770]

Chain is a completely separate concern. But yeah, anything used could always be a dump of problems. I don't know what to make of block 019 being blank values like that. You say OBDeleven is reporting 11.8V after engine off, but you never said which block you were looking at (001-1, 001-2, 018-1, etc, because 019 doesn't have a V value). The real meter across the battery posts should always match what is in 018-1 at all times. 12.4-12.5 is perfectly fine.

In regards to the chains on a 3.0T, that's a whole separate debacle to tackle. I know it's a subject for the 3.0T, but I don't know anything about the subject. Only 36k on a 10 year old car is really low mileage.

[natemenezes]

Chain is a completely separate concern. But yeah, anything used could always be a dump of problems. I don't know what to make of block 019 being blank values like that. You say OBDeleven is reporting 11.8V after engine off, but you never said which block you were looking at (001-1, 001-2, 018-1, etc, because 019 doesn't have a V value). The real meter across the battery posts should always match what is in 018-1 at all times. 12.4-12.5 is perfectly fine.

In regards to the chains on a 3.0T, that's a whole separate debacle to tackle. I know it's a subject for the 3.0T, but I don't know anything about the subject. Only 36k on a 10 year old car is really low mileage.

Yeah I understand that it’s a different issue haha. It’s yet “another” issue. On my OBD11 app, it shows battery voltage on the home screen. That’s what I was referring to.


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[CardFan]

Yeah I understand that it’s a different issue haha. It’s yet “another” issue. On my OBD11 app, it shows battery voltage on the home screen. That’s what I was referring to.


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Have you already run across the lengthy thread on startup rattle?

https://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...rt-V6-3-0-TFSI

The consensus in that thread seems to be that a 1 second or so rattle is not a concern.