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  1. #1
    Junior Member Two Rings
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    san diego, ca

    Possible Engine Failure - 2.0T CPMB

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    History:
    Bought the car in 10/22 with 108,000 mi (now has 109600). It has an APR tune and running full e85, but I rarely get on the car. Found out afterwards that it consumes 1qt at around 750 miles. A week before the engine failure got a misfire code on #1 and #2 when over taking a car on the freeway with about 2/3 on the throttle. Cleared the codes and ran fine.

    The day the problem started, I was getting a cat back exhaust installed. After it was installed I did a test drive to hear the exhaust (about 3/4 throttle, 20-50mph run). When I got to a light I noticed rattling of the muffler in the rear and some smoke from underneath me and it also sounded like there was an exhaust leak. Drove back to the muffler shop to get the exhaust readjusted. Installer said the smoke was coming from the vaseline used on the slip joint.

    Started the car up and the motor had a knocking sound (similar to rod knock) so I took it into a European specialist around the corner to get it checked out. Their initial diagnosis was that the knocking was coming from under the valve cover and that a rocker more than likely moved. They wanted $1200 to remove the valve cover and confirm. I decided to tow it to my home and do it myself.

    After getting the valve cover off and inspecting the cams, rockers and springs, I didn't notice anything abnormal and plugs looked ok. I decided to buy a borescope to investigate further and what I found was somewhat shocking to me. The intake valve on cylinder 3 appears to have a hole in the center of the valve. I'll post a pic of it. The left side of the pic is with the boroscope camera pointed down into the piston and the right side is the second camera pointed to the intake valve closer to cylinder 4.

    What are chances the motors destroyed? HELP!!
    Attached Images

  2. #2
    Veteran Member Four Rings
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    Dec 01 2020
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    2014 Q5 2.0T

    Pic on the left is worthless, you can’t see anything. For the pic on the right it’s possible to have a burned valve but how could it have a hole in the exact center? On the other side is the stem that holds it so it would be disconnected?

  3. #3
    Senior Member Two Rings tomsgtr's Avatar
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    Aug 06 2013
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    120437
    Location
    San Jose, CA

    Check your piston. Look straight down and see if you see a crack.


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    B8.5 A4 BOSS500 , B8.5 S4 DP+

  4. #4
    Junior Member Two Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by silver_tt View Post
    Pic on the left is worthless, you can’t see anything. For the pic on the right it’s possible to have a burned valve but how could it have a hole in the exact center? On the other side is the stem that holds it so it would be disconnected?
    Yeah, sorry about that. The pic on the left wasn't meant to show the damage. The piston is at TDC and the camera could not focus on it properly. This boroscope took the image with the forward facing and side camera at the same time, so that is why the pic looks like that.

    I'm confused about the hole in the valve as well. Usually material is gone along the perimeter of the valve.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by tomsgtr View Post
    Check your piston. Look straight down and see if you see a crack.


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    Will do. Thanks

  5. #5
    Veteran Member Four Rings Theiceman's Avatar
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    Feb 15 2016
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    My Garage
    2006 A4Q, 1978 911 Targa, 2006 Jetta TDI
    Location
    Cambridge,Ontario

    vales are hollow not solid, likely sodium filled ... well..... that one isn't anymore .
    i would say engine is not destroyed but obviously needs work. those iron blocks are pretty robust, but head is coming off for sure

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    2014 A4 2.0TQ Technik Manual
    2006 A4 2.0TQ Manual
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  6. #6
    Junior Member Two Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by Theiceman View Post
    vales are hollow not solid, likely sodium filled ... well..... that one isn't anymore .
    i would say engine is not destroyed but obviously needs work. those iron blocks are pretty robust, but head is coming off for sure

    Sent from my SM-G973W using Audizine Forum mobile app
    theIceman, that makes sense. Thanks for your input!

  7. #7
    Veteran Member Four Rings
    Join Date
    Dec 01 2020
    AZ Member #
    575541
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    2014 Q5 2.0T

    I know but something doesn't add up here. He says it's on the intake side. Aren't burned valves normally on the exhaust side and it happens around the edge of the valve, not dead center in a perfect hole, as the hot gas (too hot) passes by. It looks like something else to me, if the image of the piston was visible I would look for a witness mark. The piston doesn't have to be cracked for the valve to have made contact.

  8. #8
    Senior Member Two Rings
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    Jan 18 2022
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    664324
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    2015 A4 Prem. Plus, 1987 Scirocco 16V
    Location
    Raleigh, NC

    Quote Originally Posted by silver_tt View Post
    I know but something doesn't add up here. He says it's on the intake side. Aren't burned valves normally on the exhaust side and it happens around the edge of the valve, not dead center in a perfect hole, as the hot gas (too hot) passes by. It looks like something else to me, if the image of the piston was visible I would look for a witness mark. The piston doesn't have to be cracked for the valve to have made contact.
    I agree that the burned valves are normally on the exhaust side. I believe the OP has mistaken which valve they were looking at. To me, that does look like an exhaust valve as it is flat (minus the hole) When I had my head off the intake valves were "concave" on the bottom. I think that something has failed with that valve and the head needs to be removed for a complete diagnosis. Also, that is what my piston looked like after I let a piece of valve seat get back into the cylinder. Nothing crazy but I would be inspecting that piston for cracks very carefully.

    Here is a picture of my head after my valve spring broke. Notice the faces of the valves, the ones on the bottom are the exhaust.

    Also a link to my repair thread for some more pictures: https://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...estroyed-Valve

    Head.jpg

  9. #9
    Junior Member Two Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by StuckAntichris View Post
    I agree that the burned valves are normally on the exhaust side. I believe the OP has mistaken which valve they were looking at. To me, that does look like an exhaust valve as it is flat (minus the hole) When I had my head off the intake valves were "concave" on the bottom. I think that something has failed with that valve and the head needs to be removed for a complete diagnosis. Also, that is what my piston looked like after I let a piece of valve seat get back into the cylinder. Nothing crazy but I would be inspecting that piston for cracks very carefully.

    Here is a picture of my head after my valve spring broke. Notice the faces of the valves, the ones on the bottom are the exhaust.

    Also a link to my repair thread for some more pictures: https://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...estroyed-Valve

    Head.jpg
    The side camera was definitely pointing to the intake side. I will post better pictures, but you can sort of see the concavity in the valve.

  10. #10
    Junior Member Two Rings
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    san diego, ca

    Some more pics. The picture of the valve shows the outer perimeter of the valve (lighter color). I have a video of it which shows it better, but it's too big to upload.
    Attached Images

  11. #11
    Senior Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    Jan 18 2022
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    664324
    My Garage
    2015 A4 Prem. Plus, 1987 Scirocco 16V
    Location
    Raleigh, NC

    My apologies for the accusation! I think the head needs to come off to determine the cause of the failure. And to replace that valve. Keep us updated!

  12. #12
    Junior Member Two Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by StuckAntichris View Post
    My apologies for the accusation! I think the head needs to come off to determine the cause of the failure. And to replace that valve. Keep us updated!
    No worries, no offense taken. I agree with you on the head removal. I'm just puzzled with this valve damage (intake valve and hole in the center).

  13. #13
    Junior Member Two Rings
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    Apr 10 2015
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    san diego, ca

    Ok, I ordered a used engine from a 2016 A5 with 56k miles. While I'm waiting for it to arrive, what parts other than the rear main seal should I replace? Thanks in advance.

    FYI, the original motor had #1 rod bearing failure.

  14. #14
    Senior Member Two Rings
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    Jan 18 2022
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    664324
    My Garage
    2015 A4 Prem. Plus, 1987 Scirocco 16V
    Location
    Raleigh, NC

    I hate to mention it but you should probably do the timing chains on your new engine. It has been proven that even the 2016's still get the chain stretch and I would want peace of mind. That being said, it is a lot more money on top of the engine replacement so it's up to you.

    I would also look at replacing the engine mounts as well since the driver's side one is difficult to do once an engine is in the way.

    Lastly, I would do a vacuum pump rebuild, RKX makes a nice kit that includes a gasket for between the block and the pump. However its not as thick as the AUDI one so I recommend getting the factory part. P/N 06H-103-121-J
    https://www.rkxtech.com/products/rkx...09-a4-q5-a5-a6

    Hope this helps!

  15. #15
    Veteran Member Four Rings
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    Dec 01 2020
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    2014 Q5 2.0T

    does the 2016 not have the updated RMS? thought it did because a buddy has one but not 100% sure

  16. #16
    Junior Member Two Rings
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    Apr 10 2015
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    san diego, ca

    Question: my replacement engine came out of an A5 convertible with CVT and my car has the ZF 8 speed. Will I need to swap out the flywheel on the new motor?

  17. #17
    Senior Member Two Rings
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    Jan 18 2022
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    2015 A4 Prem. Plus, 1987 Scirocco 16V
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    Raleigh, NC

    I'm not 100% sure but I would take the flex plate from your original engine and put it on your replacement engine. No need to worry about differences then. Torquing the flex plate bolts can be a bit of a pain but shouldn't be too bad. Just make sure to only spin the engine clockwise (when looking at the harmonic balancer).

  18. #18
    Junior Member Two Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by StuckAntichris View Post
    I'm not 100% sure but I would take the flex plate from your original engine and put it on your replacement engine. No need to worry about differences then. Torquing the flex plate bolts can be a bit of a pain but shouldn't be too bad. Just make sure to only spin the engine clockwise (when looking at the harmonic balancer).
    I appreciate all of your help.

  19. #19
    Established Member Two Rings
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    Oct 21 2022
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    833586
    Location
    Sydney

    Do report back of your project's progress.

    And take a picture of the valve's hole, see what's inside it!

  20. #20
    Junior Member Two Rings
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    san diego, ca

    Can the flex plate to crank bolt (8 total) and flex plate to torque converter (3 total) be reused? It is my understanding that the aluminum bell housing bolts can be used 2 times, but not sure about these.

  21. #21
    Senior Member Two Rings
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    Jan 18 2022
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    2015 A4 Prem. Plus, 1987 Scirocco 16V
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    Flex plate to crank cannot be reused. They get 60Nm + 90 deg when tightening. I did a criss-cross pattern. Ensure you have a good way of holding the crankshaft steady as tightening the bolts spins the engine in the wrong direction and you could mess up any timing you have done. P/N: N90665001

    Flex plate to torque converter can be reused. They get 60 Nm once all of them are finger-tight. The same thing goes here. Make sure you are counter-holding the engine when you tighten these as it will spin it the wrong way. The service manual says to use the harmonic balancer holder to accomplish this

  22. #22
    Junior Member Two Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by StuckAntichris View Post
    Flex plate to crank cannot be reused. They get 60Nm + 90 deg when tightening. I did a criss-cross pattern. Ensure you have a good way of holding the crankshaft steady as tightening the bolts spins the engine in the wrong direction and you could mess up any timing you have done. P/N: N90665001

    Flex plate to torque converter can be reused. They get 60 Nm once all of them are finger-tight. The same thing goes here. Make sure you are counter-holding the engine when you tighten these as it will spin it the wrong way. The service manual says to use the harmonic balancer holder to accomplish this
    I just got the service manual and it states to use new bolts for flex plate to crank, but no mention on flex to torque converter.

    What's interesting is the part # you have shows it "fits" on some audi parts dealers, but on others it says "does not fit".

  23. #23
    Senior Member Two Rings
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    Jan 18 2022
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    2015 A4 Prem. Plus, 1987 Scirocco 16V
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    That part number is what I used on my 2015 Cpmb rebuild, but some others may want to chime in

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  24. #24
    Established Member Two Rings
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    Oct 15 2019
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    522577
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    '12 TTRS, '10 A4 Avant
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    Golden, CO

    I replaced both when swapping in my 2015 engine. 8x N90665001 for flex plate & 3x N91143203 for the torque converter. I replaced all the bellhousing bolts also.

  25. #25
    Junior Member Two Rings
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    I finally removed the engine. It wasn't difficult at all, but time consuming. The hardware had no corrosion or rust anywhere and the motor mounts have very minimal wear. I guess living in Socal helps a ton. There's a rubber piece sitting below the starter mounting location that was there when the motor was pulled. It looks like some insulator/gasket for the starter. Can someone confirm this?
    Attached Images

  26. #26
    Veteran Member Three Rings SNice's Avatar
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    Yes! That goes with the starter. Just pulled a cpmb myself!!! Good luck!!!


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    2014 A4 B8.5 - AUDI _ EFR 6758 / WPT Stg. 3 Flex-Fuel TUNE / WM Injection / Custom HFC / JHM D-Pipe / AWE FMIC & EXHAUST / APR INTAKE / KW V3
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  27. #27
    Junior Member Two Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by SNice View Post
    Yes! That goes with the starter. Just pulled a cpmb myself!!! Good luck!!!


    Sent from my iPhone using Audizine Forum
    You have any tips on how to install it and keep it in place when reinstalling the engine? Thanks

  28. #28
    Veteran Member Three Rings SNice's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by m95roadster View Post
    You have any tips on how to install it and keep it in place when reinstalling the engine? Thanks
    Nope - not yet. Mine is still in pieces. Almost at the point where I can start assembly. Will let you know though. Starter seems like it will be the tricky part.


    Sent from my iPhone using Audizine Forum
    2014 A4 B8.5 - AUDI _ EFR 6758 / WPT Stg. 3 Flex-Fuel TUNE / WM Injection / Custom HFC / JHM D-Pipe / AWE FMIC & EXHAUST / APR INTAKE / KW V3
    2002 SV650 - SUZUKI
    1989 nt650 HAWK GT - HONDA
    1972/4 r5/rd350 Hybrid (WIP) - YAMAHA
    1971 r5 350 (basket case) - YAMAHA

  29. #29
    Veteran Member Four Rings JLAllroad's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by m95roadster View Post
    You have any tips on how to install it and keep it in place when reinstalling the engine? Thanks
    Goes between the engine bell housing and starter, lining up the starter and popping it in while doing the same thing with the motor and transmission are the fun part.

    Jacking the transmission up a bit and tilting the motor back from front to rear is helpful in this ballet.


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  30. #30
    Junior Member Two Rings
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    Anyone know the torque spec for the 3 flex plate to torque convertor bolts? I could not find it in my service manual. Thanks!

  31. #31
    Senior Member Two Rings
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    60Nm as in my post #22 above

  32. #32
    Junior Member Two Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by StuckAntichris View Post
    60Nm as in my post #22 above
    I didn't even see that. Thanks man!

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