Coolant shut off valve replacement

[JimmyS3]

So I just noticed that I have a leak coming from the coolant shut off valve. Looks like it cracked at the top.


Has anyone else had this happen?

[Esmin23]

Yep. Happened to me. Audi replaced it with no issue.

[East_Coast_S4]

So I just noticed that I have a leak coming from the coolant shut off valve. Looks like it cracked at the top.


Has anyone else had this happen?

Just replaced mine last month, upgraded the thermostat and seal while I was in there.
That requires a special tool though...

Mine failed and the whole top part of housing was cracked.

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[AldermanToffee]

Very common on these but I don’t think many people bother to change it due to how little it usually leaks.

Most people wouldn’t even realise unless they looked at it. You’re probably fine to leave it as is unless you start noticing coolant loss.

[JimmyS3]

Very common on these but I don’t think many people bother to change it due to how little it usually leaks.

Most people wouldn’t even realise unless they looked at it. You’re probably fine to leave it as is unless you start noticing coolant loss.

What drove me to look was coolant smell for a while but nothing wet up until now. Levels all look good just my fear is having my kids in the car and getting stranded, that wouldn't be to good.

[sloppymax]

JimmyS3, do you have a shot a bit further back? I am trying to locate. Thank you.

[qcrazy]

Screenshot_20221105-144523_Drive.jpg

[JimmyS3]

Does anyone have a part number?

[East_Coast_S4]

Does anyone have a part number?

06M-121-678-H

[JimmyS3]

06M-121-678-H

U the man! Thanks

[Jrbball7]

Wondering if I'm in the same boat as you. I bought the car used back in June as a CPO. Had some things looked at at an indy shop, they said my coolant was low so they topped off in October. I just topped it off again with about a cups worth of coolant to keep it close to max and above min.

I have no coolant smell and couldn't see much around water pump or thermostat, but I did notice some white residue around the same part you're having issues with. I'm unsure if it's just road salt or dried up coolant.

I'm curious if I could be losing that much coolant from the shut off valve. I will be monitoring the levels closely to see if it drops more. Sucks because I was about to tune the car but going to hold off. 20230228_123803.jpg

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[JimmyS3]

Wondering if I'm in the same boat as you. I bought the car used back in June as a CPO. Had some things looked at at an indy shop, they said my coolant was low so they topped off in October. I just topped it off again with about a cups worth of coolant to keep it close to max and above min.

I have no coolant smell and couldn't see much around water pump or thermostat, but I did notice some white residue around the same part you're having issues with. I'm unsure if it's just road salt or dried up coolant.

I'm curious if I could be losing that much coolant from the shut off valve. I will be monitoring the levels closely to see if it drops more. Sucks because I was about to tune the car but going to hold off. 20230228_123803.jpg

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So the part my shop ordered was wrong and the new part has been ordered. They asked if I wanted to try a Liquid Molly solution in the time being and so I did. Cleaned the part and drove it home and couple trips with no new smell. So once the part comes in debating on swap or wait till I see the leak/smell again.

[DsgDame]

Anyone has a write up on how to change this part? Or is it easy to do? Or do you guys recommend a shop?

[East_Coast_S4]

Anyone has a write up on how to change this part? Or is it easy to do? Or do you guys recommend a shop?

Remove front clip, swing ac condenser to the side, remove charge pipes and you're there.

Not hard but not quick and easy either.

If you can replace the FMIC and Charge pipes you can swap this.

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[DsgDame]

Don’t sound too bad, might just wait until I get FMIC and charge pipes and do everything at once. Thanks for the tip because shops in ny prices are getting crazy

[Bicepbraha]

Hi bro, did the liquid moly suggestion hold up in the sbd tempted to do the same

[JimmyS3]

Hi bro, did the liquid moly suggestion hold up in the sbd tempted to do the same

So far no issues but I really drive the car. I put maybe 75 miles on it since I put it in.

[ZakB7A4]

I know this is an old thread, but I have this valve leaking and most everyone online says this 100% means the water pump is leaking too. Have you seen this valve fail on its own frequently without the water pump failing?

[JimmyS3]

I haven't replaced it or the water pump. Still going strong and probably put 12k miles on.

I keep an eye on it though. I am tired of the VW/ Audi water pump issues.

[LenS4]

Is it easier to access the valve from under the car or remove the front bumper?

[JonnyBravo!]

I know this is an old thread, but I have this valve leaking and most everyone online says this 100% means the water pump is leaking too. Have you seen this valve fail on its own frequently without the water pump failing?

Check your solenoid valve (top passenger side) - if there's coolant leaking out of it, your waterpump is cooked.

Is it easier to access the valve from under the car or remove the front bumper?

You can't access the valve from under the car.

[DarthTugits]

So I am a lurker with a Macan that has this engine (EA839?), and this problem that I plan to tackle in a month when my work slows down. I came to Audizine because Porsche people usually don't like to get their hands dirty and don't ever try to fix anything and I figured if any forum had the experts it is this one. I just have a couple questions for those who have done this (and I plan to swap water pump, thermostat, and serpentine belt):

First, what is the process for the resetting the belt tensioner for the serpentine belt? Is there a tool from Audi? I don't know how to reset it and put a pin back in or should I just swap a new tensioner too?
Secondly, I don't know if there is a how-to for bleeding coolant. I don't mind picking up one of those pressurized coolant filling kits but I have also seen people post, "run the car with the heat all the way up and feed coolant until full." Are there any bleed valves?

Any general info threads on this engine, or common issue threads, general pointers on completing water pump/thermostat/coolant valve appreciated. New to Audi engines, but looking to learn. I like to work on my cars when it is not above my abilities.

Thanks for any help in advance!

[JonnyBravo!]

So I am a lurker with a Macan that has this engine (EA839?), and this problem that I plan to tackle in a month when my work slows down. I came to Audizine because Porsche people usually don't like to get their hands dirty and don't ever try to fix anything and I figured if any forum had the experts it is this one. I just have a couple questions for those who have done this (and I plan to swap water pump, thermostat, and serpentine belt):

First, what is the process for the resetting the belt tensioner for the serpentine belt? Is there a tool from Audi? I don't know how to reset it and put a pin back in or should I just swap a new tensioner too?
Secondly, I don't know if there is a how-to for bleeding coolant. I don't mind picking up one of those pressurized coolant filling kits but I have also seen people post, "run the car with the heat all the way up and feed coolant until full." Are there any bleed valves?

Any general info threads on this engine, or common issue threads, general pointers on completing water pump/thermostat/coolant valve appreciated. New to Audi engines, but looking to learn. I like to work on my cars when it is not above my abilities.

Thanks for any help in advance!

The tensioner is just cranked 90 degrees to remove/install the belt. It's not that bad. Use a wrench to turn the tensioner and use this pin to hold it in place: https://dieselgeek.com/products/vw-t...dtDE56e4xX5Dec

For coolant bleeding, I also ran the car with the heat cranked up and the coolant lid off. Haven't had any issues and I've done that three times now.

The process is really not that bad once you get in there. Message me and I'll send you the service guide PDF.

[Akakios]

For coolant bleeding, I also ran the car with the heat cranked up and the coolant lid off. Haven't had any issues and I've done that three times now.

I'll add to this, heat on max, blower on low after a pressure/vac fill works great.

[DarthTugits]

Thanks for the info, guys. That is helpful. I asked two local specialty shops (one Porsche, one Audi) what it would cost to do this repair and replace water pump/coolant valve/thermostat and was quoted $4000 and $3000. It looks like a lot of removing the front bumper and radiator, but fairly straightforward. I have a Quickjack being dropped off today and going to take a few days off at the end of May to try this, bleed the brakes, and service the transmission. Wish me luck!

[Akakios]

Our S4 is getting this done as it's under warranty so I'll let you know what the total is when they get done. It'll be about a week as they were dealing with the warranty company and all of that fun.

[spacecase]

Thanks for the info, guys. That is helpful. I asked two local specialty shops (one Porsche, one Audi) what it would cost to do this repair and replace water pump/coolant valve/thermostat and was quoted $4000 and $3000. It looks like a lot of removing the front bumper and radiator, but fairly straightforward. I have a Quickjack being dropped off today and going to take a few days off at the end of May to try this, bleed the brakes, and service the transmission. Wish me luck!

I was charged $2500. Would have been $1900 if I only did water pump. With coolant shutoff valve and thermostat it was $2400. I was told its more work to get access to the thermostat. If I wanted to replace all vac lines the price would have increased ~$700 but the shop inspected all the vac lines and found it was good.