Audi a3 8p Headlights Not Adjusted

[Robert13]

Hi, guys, i got a problem with my xenon adjustment, i was trying to adjust them by vcds, and then with a screwdriver, but when i went to the module 55 - Xenon Range, Basic settings and changed to group 001 i got an intermittent error for Headlights not adjusted and i can't calibrate my headlight, when i press ON its doing nothing and show the error.

Before, I did a normal scan for DTC's which didn't show anything, it wasn't until I went to the the control module 55 - Xenon Range, Basic settings and changed to group 001. It threw the code and every time I try to clear it just comes back.


Below is the output from VCDS.

Address 55: Headlight Range Labels: 8P0-907-357.LBL
Control Module Part Number: 8P0 907 357 F
Component and/or Version: Dynamische LWR H01 0010
Software Coding: 0000012
Work Shop Code: WSC 06314 000 00000
VCID: 3D718FF66471A8AC33-8068
1 Fault Found:

01539 - Headlights Not Adjusted
005 - No or Incorrect Basic Setting / Adaptation - MIL ON
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 11100101
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 58
Mileage: 253448 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2023.01.17
Time: 09:30:14

[AlexQS]

I just picked up a 2012 A3 TDI. The headlights were pointing down toward the ground way too much. I do have VCDS, but did not attempt any change with that.

I have a guess that *migh* be helpful to you. My guess is that the error code you’re seeing has to do with the physical orientation/adjustment of your headlights. There is some sort of sensor in the car which detects when the car is pointed up hill, or heavily loaded with weight in the in the trunk. There is a small electric motor in the headlight assembly which aims the xenon projectors down a little bit whenever the level of the car is angled up. This is an effort to prevent blinding other motorists. So I’m guessing that yours are so far out of alignment that the electric motor is not able to adjust enough to compensate back to a safe level light beam.

Here’s what I did. Years ago I read an article about DOT approved method to visually aim headlights. I used to think that I should make adjustments with the car close to a wall or garage door. That was actually wrong.

The correct way is to find a verticals screen that is 90^ to flat level ground. You need 25 feet of room on the ground. (For example the wall of a building in an empty grocery store parking lot at night). You’ll need a tape measure, a 1 foot square piece of cardboard some blue masking tape and a screw driver.

Position the car with the headlights pointing square-on the building. Measure that the headlights are 25 feet away from the the building.

Hold the piece of cardboard right in front of the bumper, so the flat line that cuts off the top low beam light projector shines on the cardboard. Measure vertically from the ground to where the top of light beam hits the cardboard (maybe 26 inches).

Now walk up to the building and measure 24 or 25 inches above the ground and mark it with blue tape. That’s your target. Technically the light beam should fall 2 inches for every 25 feet. I find if the light beam falls only 1 inch for 25 feet, other drivers don’t flash me and I can see a little bit further. Really being factory HID headlights, even when I’m an inch above where it should be my oncoming lights are very pleasing compared to everyone who haphazardly fits super bright LED bulbs into headlight housings they were never intended for.

Back to the instructions: open the hood. There are two Phillips screw adjustments for each headlight. One vertical and one horizontal. These are plain as day to find on my A3. The Phillips are inset down into a plastic grommet which appears to accept a hex- head. I needed only a screwdriver to adjust mine. There’s a big “H” next to the one that adjusts height. Turn this screw as you watch the light beam on the wall move toward your blue tape line.

Whether you go for 1 or 2 inch drop at 25 feet is up to you. Just remember please do not let your low beams point up! If the light beam falls less than 1 inch at 25 feet, you may have difficulty seeing in foggy conditions.

I’m hoping that if you get them physically adjusted properly when you’re on level ground, that then the range of motion for the electric motor in the headlight assembly will be such that your MIL will go away and the computer/motor will be able to keep the headlights within that range at times that the car is not level.

Let us know if this works.




AlexQS
2015 Audi A3 2.0T quattro Premium
2014 VW Passat TSI Wolfsburg

[AlexQS]

I just picked up a 2012 A3 TDI. The headlights were pointing down toward the ground way too much. I do have VCDS, but did not attempt any change with that.

I have a guess that *migh* be helpful to you. My guess is that the error code you’re seeing has to do with the physical orientation/adjustment of your headlights. There is some sort of sensor in the car which detects when the car is pointed up hill, or heavily loaded with weight in the in the trunk. There is a small electric motor in the headlight assembly which aims the xenon projectors down a little bit whenever the level of the car is angled up. This is an effort to prevent blinding other motorists. So I’m guessing that yours are so far out of alignment that the electric motor is not able to adjust enough to compensate back to a safe level light beam.

Here’s what I did. Years ago I read an article about DOT approved method to visually aim headlights. I used to think that I should make adjustments with the car close to a wall or garage door. That was actually wrong.

The correct way is to find a verticals screen that is 90^ to flat level ground. You need 25 feet of room on the ground. (For example the wall of a building in an empty grocery store parking lot at night). You’ll need a tape measure, a 1 foot square piece of cardboard some blue masking tape and a screw driver.

Position the car with the headlights pointing square-on the building. Measure that the headlights are 25 feet away from the the building.

Hold the piece of cardboard right in front of the bumper, so the flat line that cuts off the top low beam light projector shines on the cardboard. Measure vertically from the ground to where the top of light beam hits the cardboard (maybe 26 inches).

Now walk up to the building and measure 24 or 25 inches above the ground and mark it with blue tape. That’s your target. Technically the light beam should fall 2 inches for every 25 feet. I find if the light beam falls only 1 inch for 25 feet, other drivers don’t flash me and I can see a little bit further. Really being factory HID headlights, even when I’m an inch above where it should be my oncoming lights are very pleasing compared to everyone who haphazardly fits super bright LED bulbs into headlight housings they were never intended for.

Back to the instructions: open the hood. There are two Phillips screw adjustments for each headlight. One vertical and one horizontal. These are plain as day to find on my A3. The Phillips are inset down into a plastic grommet which appears to accept a hex- head. I needed only a screwdriver to adjust mine. There’s a big “H” next to the one that adjusts height. Turn this screw as you watch the light beam on the wall move toward your blue tape line.

Whether you go for 1 or 2 inch drop at 25 feet is up to you. Just remember please do not let your low beams point up! If the light beam falls less than 1 inch at 25 feet, you may have difficulty seeing in foggy conditions.

I’m hoping that if you get them physically adjusted properly when you’re on level ground, that then the range of motion for the electric motor in the headlight assembly will be such that your MIL will go away and the computer/motor will be able to keep the headlights within that range at times that the car is not level.

Let us know if this works.




AlexQS
2015 Audi A3 2.0T quattro Premium
2014 VW Passat TSI Wolfsburg

**. Edit: Oops… just reread your post. I see you already tried with screwdriver also. I misunderstood the problem.


AlexQS
2015 Audi A3 2.0T quattro Premium
2014 VW Passat TSI Wolfsburg

[Pir4t]

Check the sensors on the front left control arm and the rear left arm.
Mine had snapped off in the rear and was giving a false reading which prevented me from doing the basic adjustment.
If the sensor works you could rebuild the arm for it anyhow you want , I still haven’t done mine though as I have no joints to make an arm of and a replacement is 80$