Audizine - An Automotive Enthusiast Community

Results 1 to 9 of 9
  1. #1
    Active Member One Ring
    Join Date
    Jan 02 2023
    AZ Member #
    865110
    Location
    Luxembourg

    Future owner of RS6 C7.5

    Guest-only advertisement. Register or Log In now!
    Hi

    I'm actually owner of RS6 C5 - very nice car, but not for me for daily driving - I have A6 Allroad BiTDIfrom 2015 (facelift) and lacking in C5 all safety systems.

    Thus I know 4G platform (Allroad) all it's electronic stuff (MIB2, matrix, etc).

    I planning to buy RS6 4G (C7.5) so 2015-2018+ Performance (605PS)

    What should I look for and what should I avoid.

    My doubts for now are:
    - 20 vs 21 inch wheels
    - ceramic breaks
    - general cost of owning RS6

    What are the pitfalls and possible fixes for them ?
    (change to 20' wheels, change discs to metallic, etc...)

  2. #2
    Veteran Member Four Rings widebodyfx's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 31 2009
    AZ Member #
    38112
    My Garage
    2016 RS7-P
    Location
    Seattle

    First, you're lucky to have access to the C7.5 RS6. I'm in love with this chassis, and that is an amazing package.

    Pretty sure the oil screen recall is in effect in Europe too? That would be something to check for, PCV failures happen as well. I can't recall if RoW Performance has DRC and CCB or not, I remember an Australian owner showed his RS6 Performance and it did not have one of those. Being in Europe you have many options for parts and retrofits, the RS6 can come pretty loaded or lower specs.

    I think 21" fit the Avant well, the 20" Forged wheel is on the rare side for us and would be a good option for winter tires.
    CCB I would prioritize as a needed option, I've come down from 160+ very quickly because of traffic, and steel brakes would've been scary. The same thing with parts, you have a lot more options with dismantlers and new old stock if you need to replace them.
    ///TWCompetition 2016 RS7 - 2016 A6 TDI - 2016 S6 - 2007 RS4 - 2022 RSQ8

  3. #3
    Active Member One Ring
    Join Date
    Mar 02 2022
    AZ Member #
    678128
    Location
    Australia

    I've had one (MY17 performance) for a year now. Its been... challenging.

    If anything breaks, its a killer, in 12 months i've done the following maintenance;

    2 x engine mounts $5,000 AUD
    1 x electronic steering rack (got water in it driving through a small puddle) $7,500 AUD
    replaced crank case seals due to oil leak - $1000 ish
    1 x gearbox rebuild (previous owner beat it up i think) $12,000 AUD
    1 x new diff/awd pump - $1200 AUD

    Try and find one thats been fastidiously cared for, with low kms. Check the usual items like control arms/diff bushes, brakes, all of which can be expensive fixes.

    Stick to the 21s in my opinion, the size is perfect for the car. I also wouldnt see CCB as a deal breaker, unless you're going to be hard on the brakes and often, the steels do a fine job.

    and good luck :D

  4. #4
    Active Member One Ring
    Join Date
    Dec 25 2022
    AZ Member #
    862595
    Location
    Bulgaria

    The prices in Europe are a bit different. I've replaced bank 1 (right side) mount for 1000 euro (800 euro for the part with a small discount and 200 labor, but labor is cheap where I live). From what I've done as research the DRC suspension is prone to failures and it's expensive (around 3000 euro per front shock) and can be only filled at the dealer which is added cost. Plus you can't raise the DRC suspension and it's a bit firmer than the air option. Beware that ceramic brakes don't wear like steelies. To check the wear you must weight them. I've tested 3 RS6 before I bought my S6 C7.5 and all 3 of them needed rotor replacement which is around 9k euro just for the parts. If ceramics are properly used they CAN go till 150-200k kilometers, while steelies can be worn in 30k kilometers (or even less), tend to squeal and leave a LOT of break dust on the rims. I'd suggest you to check if the HPFPs have been replaced and if not replace them (700 euro each), because they tend to leak a bit of fuel in the oil and it's not enough to raise the oil level so much that the sensor can reflect it and does not produce any errors. Like the oil screen HPFPs have mutiple revisions and if you do replace them it's a good idea to search for the last one available from Audi.

  5. #5
    Active Member One Ring
    Join Date
    Jan 02 2023
    AZ Member #
    865110
    Location
    Luxembourg

    Hi

    Thanks for answers, looks that RS6 C7.5 could be somehow a landmine ;)

    Best would be to get the one with factory warranty? (Still possible with 2018 with select plus program from Audi)
    The rest like ceramic breaks could be “challenging”

    Anyhow any solutions which will not suck same amount of money that RS6 costs?
    It’s starting to threaten me vs costs of my A6 C7.5 all road with 320ps biturbo diesel.

    I have almost 280tkm and no issues with pneumatic or or other surprises.
    Breaks are to tinny for the monster… and only the ones from audi survives (ate, brembo bends after 5-6tkm)

  6. #6
    Active Member One Ring
    Join Date
    Dec 25 2022
    AZ Member #
    862595
    Location
    Bulgaria

    3.0T petrol can be a fun car with some slight modifications, but it will never be a S6. Same goes for S6 and RS6. I went for S6 over RS6 mainly because there weren't any good RS6es for my budget and I didn't want to spend more than double just for the body kit and ZF8 gearbox (there are other differences, but they either don't matter to me, or can be retrofitted). But everything below RS6 is a compromise and you'll know it once you park yours next to it :). My advice is go and try a couple of S6 and RS6 models. Find a good Audi workshop (or a dealer) and perform a pre purchase inspection there. If there aren't any outstanding issues and you're happy with the price and the car just go for it. And yes, if (or when) stuff breaks it will be expensive.
    P.S. if the car is 2016 or earlier model check if went to Audi for the oil screen recall, if not that should be the first thing you do after the purchase.

  7. #7
    Veteran Member Four Rings RAF_S7's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 29 2014
    AZ Member #
    167502
    Location
    Hampshire, UK

    Quote Originally Posted by gabrjel View Post
    Hi

    Thanks for answers, looks that RS6 C7.5 could be somehow a landmine ;)

    Best would be to get the one with factory warranty? (Still possible with 2018 with select plus program from Audi)
    The rest like ceramic breaks could be “challenging”

    Anyhow any solutions which will not suck same amount of money that RS6 costs?
    It’s starting to threaten me vs costs of my A6 C7.5 all road with 320ps biturbo diesel.

    I have almost 280tkm and no issues with pneumatic or or other surprises.
    Breaks are to tinny for the monster… and only the ones from audi survives (ate, brembo bends after 5-6tkm)
    You should talk to @dasquade about his killer S6
    2016 S7 Sepang Blue ///Matrix//Bose//Self Park//Lane Assist//ACC//F&R parking cams//Blackvue DR750//Phone Box//Sunroof//Privacy glass//Carbon mirrors//Neidfaktor Steering wheel//RS Knob//OEM RS Grill//Suntek PPF//De-chromed//Modded Exhaust//Cete ASC v2 installed//APR Stage 3 w/RS7 Turbos and intake pipes + TSU//Eventuri CF intake//Carbon Diffuser
    Gone: 2014 Audi A7Q 3.0 TFSI
    Gone: 2011 Audi A6Q 2.8 TFSI

  8. #8
    Veteran Member Four Rings A6sport's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 11 2007
    AZ Member #
    16309
    My Garage
    4L Q7 3.0T Stage II, D4 A8L 4.2, A5 2.0t APR stage III, MK1 TT 225 APR stage I 2022 Q8 3.0T Stock
    Location
    Colorado Springs

    Quote Originally Posted by brutal_noise View Post
    3.0T petrol can be a fun car with some slight modifications, but it will never be a S6. Same goes for S6 and RS6. I went for S6 over RS6 mainly because there weren't any good RS6es for my budget and I didn't want to spend more than double just for the body kit and ZF8 gearbox (there are other differences, but they either don't matter to me, or can be retrofitted). But everything below RS6 is a compromise and you'll know it once you park yours next to it :). My advice is go and try a couple of S6 and RS6 models. Find a good Audi workshop (or a dealer) and perform a pre purchase inspection there. If there aren't any outstanding issues and you're happy with the price and the car just go for it. And yes, if (or when) stuff breaks it will be expensive.
    P.S. if the car is 2016 or earlier model check if went to Audi for the oil screen recall, if not that should be the first thing you do after the purchase.
    I disagree. An A6/7 mine in particular, (stage III) is just as quick as the stock S6/7 and I'll probably beat the S car to 60.
    2022 Q8 S line Prestige Stock
    2015 Q7 S line Sport+ APR Stage II DP
    2012 A7Plus APR Stage II+ UC
    2012 A8L 4.2
    2010 A5 2.0T APR K04 Stage III
    2002 TT 225 Roadster APR Stage I

    Still own them all...

  9. #9
    Active Member One Ring
    Join Date
    Dec 25 2022
    AZ Member #
    862595
    Location
    Bulgaria

    You're comparing apples to oranges. The suspension and brakes in S6/RS6 is different, they have (S6 as an extra) sport differential and so on. Your car might be quicker than my stage 1 S6 in a straight line, but is it as stable in the corners? Is it faster than stage 3 S6/RS6 :) ? Btw @gabrjel's biTdi can run quicker than RS6 as well if he chooses to. And don't get me wrong, I know A6 can be seriously quick and fun to drive.

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  


    © 2001-2025 Audizine, Audizine.com, and Driverzines.com
    Audizine is an independently owned and operated automotive enthusiast community and news website.
    Audi and the Audi logo(s) are copyright/trademark Audi AG. Audizine is not endorsed by or affiliated with Audi AG.