O-rings for 3.0 tfsi timing cover

[lteeuro]

Hey guys, in the middle of doing a full timing service on my A6 and realized I don't have the three o-rings that seal the oil passages from the block that dead head on the main timing cover. Researched it extensively and can't pull up part numbers. Any help?

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[Valpo A7]

Go see your dealer tomorrow, they will be able to find the parts and possibly have them in stock. Change the rear main seal while you are at it, not that expensive. Make sure you have a decent bead of sealant on the covers when you put it all back together.

Amazon has a really nice nylon bristle brush set that will make short order of cleaning all the gasket surfaces.

[lteeuro]

10-4 thankx. An yup I got a main seal with the kit

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[lteeuro]

Update...the dealer can't seem to find them on a diagram. I'm at a loss as to where to look if Audi themselves can't find them.

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[GilliamOS]

Update...the dealer can't seem to find them on a diagram. I'm at a loss as to where to look if Audi themselves can't find them.

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Can you post a picture of where they go? I have ETKA access. What engine code do you have or at least model year?

[Valpo A7]

Make sure you have a set of “long” triple squares if you don’t already. I had bought the short stubby set first and found out they are too short for the cam bolts. I bought a 4 inch set off Amazon

[Valpo A7]

ECS or FCP might be able to help. I bought my kit from ECS but some of the extras from FCP

[lteeuro]

Heres the location of themPXL_20221222_230905876.jpg

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[lteeuro]

And here's the VIN #IMG-20221222-WA0007~2.jpg

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[lteeuro]

ECS or FCP might be able to help. I bought my kit from ECS but some of the extras from FCP

Gotcha. I got my kit from FCP but neither company seems to have those o-rings. Unless I just don't know where to look


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[GilliamOS]

They appear to be #25 and #26. I would confirm that though.

[Valpo A7]

Talk with an order rep at those stores. The big ticket items you can usually find easily on the site but it’s best to call for the needle in the haystack

[lteeuro]

They appear to be #25 and #26. I would confirm that though.

Thankx for the help there... unfortunately on my end the part numbers are too fuzzy for me to read them. Could you send those two numbers over?...be appreciated.

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[lteeuro]

Talk with an order rep at those stores. The big ticket items you can usually find easily on the site but it’s best to call for the needle in the haystack

I did call ECS...they couldn't find them. Haven't called FCP yet...

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[Alabama]

Thankx for the help there... unfortunately on my end the part numbers are too fuzzy for me to read them. Could you send those two numbers over?...be appreciated.

Looks like:

Engine Crankshaft Sealing Flange Gasket.
Part Number: 06E103181K
Supersession(s): 06E-103-181-K; 06E103181B; 6E103181K

and:

Engine Crankshaft Sealing Flange Gasket.
Part Number: 06E103181L
Supersession(s): 06E-103-181-L; 06E103181C; 6E103181L

Quantity for #25 (K) is 1, Quantity for #26 (L) is 2. Each one is listed as about $10.50 full retail at the Audi parts website. As GilliamOS wrote, you should confirm.

[lteeuro]

Awesome. Thankx a million...found them

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[fastboatster]

slightly off-topic - can anyone recommend a good tool set for this job available on amazon. it looks like my driver side t40133 might not fit correctly.

[Valpo A7]

slightly off-topic - can anyone recommend a good tool set for this job available on amazon. it looks like my driver side t40133 might not fit correctly.

It’s not uncommon for driver side and passenger side to totally not lock down correctly. You have to lock 1 side then rotate forward or back slightly to line up the cam threaded holes. With chain stretch you could be slightly off. Understand the cams will lock at top and bottom dead center as well. The crank will rotate 1x for every 2x with the cams. The crank will be lined up when you see the divot in the crank in the hole the pin goes in.

[fastboatster]

It’s not uncommon for driver side and passenger side to totally not lock down correctly. You have to lock 1 side then rotate forward or back slightly to line up the cam threaded holes. With chain stretch you could be slightly off. Understand the cams will lock at top and bottom dead center as well. The crank will rotate 1x for every 2x with the cams. The crank will be lined up when you see the divot in the crank in the hole the pin goes in.

I get all of this, and my driver side was definitely off and I couldn’t line it up even by trying to turn the crank forward or backwards, I eventually even ended up breaking one bolt of the alignment tool. Passenger side lined up very easy, though. However, what also led me to believe my tool is bad is when I removed the driver side cam girdle and tried to align the cams in the girdle. The tool wasn’t parallel to the girdle at all after I tightened the two bolts (which I replaced with stronger ones) and the intake cam seemed to have its slit not being parallel to the girdle either. Anyways, another tool I got off the Amazon seems to be better, and things seems to line up well as tested on the extra cylinder head I have from my old engine.