8Y RS3 Brake Pads and Rotors Thread

[stummiller]

Hey kevin#34, I haven't gone back to Girodisc on the rotors since September last year when I received the replacements (although car was stored for winter months here near Boston) and so I think it's been too long to ask for any kind of warranty now. Although the vibration was almost all gone with the replacement rings, the vibration is still there but tolerable. I actually think it could be the aluminum hats but I won't have a chance to confirm until it is time to replace these rotors, maybe as soon as end of this year's track season.

[kevin#34]

Ok, I was just curious to know Girodisc official reply since I've never heard people complaining for vibrations, then I assume your discs might be defective as they left factory.
By the way, I installed mine several weeks ago and as expected, no vibrations/imbalance at all (I own a TT-RS and not RS3, but technically speaking they have pretty similar construction&materials, just a slight different diamater and off-set)

[bokiboki]

You can call FCPeuro and talk to them to find parts for newer models. They told me that they are working on getting their parts lookup populated for newer models but to call them until that’s done. You can also find the part numbers on Audi’s parts website. Just go to your dealer’s site and look for the parts website link. Mine is https://parts.audishrewsbury.com/.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks for this info, I just checked that url you sent and was able to find the part number immediately.

The part number for front rotor is 4M0615301BJ (4M0-615-301-BJ), manufacturer number AFX44325 and it goes for around $720-760 per 1 rotor at Audi dealerships.

ECSTuning wants $934 for one (https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...c/4m0615301bj/).

Found it on Ebay $527 from one seller but the brand is SHW Performance which I'm not sure if it's OEM or not: https://www.ebay.com/itm/35546156768...3ABFBMyJji9u5j

And the cheapest I was able to find the part (again SHW Performance, not sure if it's OEM or not) for $469: https://eeuroparts.com/product/shw-p...xoCvvsQAvD_BwE

FCPEuro doesn't list anything when I serach their site for these part numbers but I'll get in touch with them just in case. Thanks all.

[RS3_by_the_Sea]

Those of you who have replaced front pads -- did you replace rotors as well? I'm debating whether to do that or not. Pulled out out my calipers and seems to be at about 35mm thickness, so within spec. The only thing giving me pause is that the rotors seem to be...grooved? for lack of a better term -- basically it looks like concentric arcs aligned with the cross-drilled holes.

Have half a mind to throw the pads on anyway and see how it goes. Worst case scenario I ruin a set of pads. I suppose I could also try to get them resurfaced, but that's going to be a bit of a hassle where I live right now.

[NapalmEnema]

Those of you who have replaced front pads -- did you replace rotors as well? I'm debating whether to do that or not. Pulled out out my calipers and seems to be at about 35mm thickness, so within spec. The only thing giving me pause is that the rotors seem to be...grooved? for lack of a better term -- basically it looks like concentric arcs aligned with the cross-drilled holes.

Have half a mind to throw the pads on anyway and see how it goes. Worst case scenario I ruin a set of pads. I suppose I could also try to get them resurfaced, but that's going to be a bit of a hassle where I live right now.

Just pads imo with what you are describing.

[xeonoex]

My rotors currently look like this (maybe a little worse) and I am still tracking them. This is after I cleaned up the pad smearing though.



The "grooves" you are describing is probably just pad material smearing on the rotor face from getting caught in the holes. If you don't notice it when driving, it's not a problem. It's just one of the downsides of drilled rotors.

[RS3_by_the_Sea]

Just pads imo with what you are describing.

Thanks.

My rotors currently look like this (maybe a little worse) and I am still tracking them. This is after I cleaned up the pad smearing though.

The "grooves" you are describing is probably just pad material smearing on the rotor face from getting caught in the holes. If you don't notice it when driving, it's not a problem. It's just one of the downsides of drilled rotors.

Ok, mine didn't look anywhere near that stressed. And I'd hoped this was just a byproduct of the drilled rotors. Thanks.

I might still look at getting the rotors resurfaced if I can find a place nearby that will do it with a quick turnaround.

[stummiller]

Those of you who have replaced front pads -- did you replace rotors as well? I'm debating whether to do that or not. Pulled out out my calipers and seems to be at about 35mm thickness, so within spec. The only thing giving me pause is that the rotors seem to be...grooved? for lack of a better term -- basically it looks like concentric arcs aligned with the cross-drilled holes.

Have half a mind to throw the pads on anyway and see how it goes. Worst case scenario I ruin a set of pads. I suppose I could also try to get them resurfaced, but that's going to be a bit of a hassle where I live right now.

Have you confirmed the grooves are not just uneven pad material transfer? Can you feel the grooves have any depth with finger nail dragged across the surface? If the grooves are more than a millimeter deep on each side, I'd consider new rotors but if they're not deep grooves, probably just pads.

[RS8Y]

DBA is an option for the front rotors

DBA53932SLVXD- cross drilled and dimpled
DBA53932SLVS- slotted

[RS3_by_the_Sea]

Have you confirmed the grooves are not just uneven pad material transfer? Can you feel the grooves have any depth with finger nail dragged across the surface? If the grooves are more than a millimeter deep on each side, I'd consider new rotors but if they're not deep grooves, probably just pads.

It's probably pad transfer, as you say. If I look at the cross-drilled holes they're nearly filled with brake dust. There aren't any discernible "grooves" that I can catch with a fingernail. Certainly no variance even close to 1mm. At best I think I'd describe the surface as slightly "wavy."

Including a couple photos below; not sure how helpful they'll be in this case though. At the moment I think I'm leaning toward just doing a pad slap and see how it goes.

PXL_20240611_162436066 (3).jpg
PXL_20240611_162448055 (1).jpg

[stummiller]

It's probably pad transfer, as you say. If I look at the cross-drilled holes they're nearly filled with brake dust. There aren't any discernible "grooves" that I can catch with a fingernail. Certainly no variance even close to 1mm. At best I think I'd describe the surface as slightly "wavy."

Including a couple photos below; not sure how helpful they'll be in this case though. At the moment I think I'm leaning toward just doing a pad slap and see how it goes.

PXL_20240611_162436066 (3).jpg
PXL_20240611_162448055 (1).jpg

That looks like pretty decent wear actually, just slightly wavy. Doesn't look like pad smearing to me. Attaching photo of what pad smearing looked like on my Girodisc rotors after tracking with iSweep IS3000 pads. It looks like blotchy dark patches on the rotors and causes bad vibration under braking. Eventually the smearing wears off with street driving in abrasive braking mode. Abrasive mode is when brakes create stopping torque by pure friction pad to rotor. This happens when when operated at lower temps like on the street. When pads and rotors are burnished or bedded properly, a thin even layer of pad material adheres to the rotor surface creating a thin layer of material that allows pads to create more braking torque through adhesion / adherence - basically gripping the rotors more effectively than pure frictional mode.

IMG_2931.jpg

[RS3_by_the_Sea]

That looks like pretty decent wear actually, just slightly wavy. Doesn't look like pad smearing to me. Attaching photo of what pad smearing looked like on my Girodisc rotors after tracking with iSweep IS3000 pads. It looks like blotchy dark patches on the rotors and causes bad vibration under braking. Eventually the smearing wears off with street driving in abrasive braking mode. Abrasive mode is when brakes create stopping torque by pure friction pad to rotor. This happens when when operated at lower temps like on the street. When pads and rotors are burnished or bedded properly, a thin even layer of pad material adheres to the rotor surface creating a thin layer of material that allows pads to create more braking torque through adhesion / adherence - basically gripping the rotors more effectively than pure frictional mode.

IMG_2931.jpg

Ah, yeah, never seen anything like that on my rotors, so guess not then. When you say "decent wear" -- do you mean you'd go ahead and replace? Sort of confused here seeing as the caliper measurement doesn't seem to necessitate replacement but the waviness leaves me wondering if I should. Ordinarily I'd replace the rotors when changing pads; every other car I've owned has had plenty of aftermarket options, so I never spent more than $200-300 on a pair of rotors, but with these requiring a $1100-1200 replacement set I'd like to get as much out of them as I can before I have to swap 'em out.

[kevin#34]

apologize for briefly hi-jacking the tread, but I'd like to hear opinions about an annoying issue I am experiencing with my current brake set-up (Girodisc + OEM TT-RS 8S calipers + Brembo HP2000 street pads):
after a proper 500 miles bedding procedure (both discs and pads were brand new), when I do heavy prolonged brakings, I face an abnormal vibration on the pedal... If I let the brakes cool down for a while (let's say 20/30 sec) at the next braking the symptom is not present anymore, except for reoccuring once the brakes are used in heavy manner again..
Any idea? personally, I believe the discs are not the cause, since at cold/normal road use, vibrations are totally absent and the braking is perfect... could be the pads material or spec, that maybe do not match with the discs?

[sleepy_rs3]

apologize for briefly hi-jacking the tread, but I'd like to hear opinions about an annoying issue I am experiencing with my current brake set-up (Girodisc + OEM TT-RS 8S calipers + Brembo HP2000 street pads):
after a proper 500 miles bedding procedure (both discs and pads were brand new), when I do heavy prolonged brakings, I face an abnormal vibration on the pedal... If I let the brakes cool down for a while (let's say 20/30 sec) at the next braking the symptom is not present anymore, except for reoccuring once the brakes are used in heavy manner again..
Any idea? personally, I believe the discs are not the cause, since at cold/normal road use, vibrations are totally absent and the braking is perfect... could be the pads material or spec, that maybe do not match with the discs?

my theory is that when the discs get very hot during aggressive use the gasses generated between the pad and rotor during braking are not able to escape quickly enough creating this vibration. i agree it may be the pad material.

[stummiller]

apologize for briefly hi-jacking the tread, but I'd like to hear opinions about an annoying issue I am experiencing with my current brake set-up (Girodisc + OEM TT-RS 8S calipers + Brembo HP2000 street pads):
after a proper 500 miles bedding procedure (both discs and pads were brand new), when I do heavy prolonged brakings, I face an abnormal vibration on the pedal... If I let the brakes cool down for a while (let's say 20/30 sec) at the next braking the symptom is not present anymore, except for reoccuring once the brakes are used in heavy manner again..
Any idea? personally, I believe the discs are not the cause, since at cold/normal road use, vibrations are totally absent and the braking is perfect... could be the pads material or spec, that maybe do not match with the discs?

Are you seeing spotty or blotchy appearance on the rotor surface similar to this photo? This is pad smearing from using pads that are not tolerant to the heat produced from repeated heavy braking on a track. The brake vibration is most noticeable at medium to high speeds but will clear up over time from street use as long as brakes are kept relatively cool (abrasive mode of brakes).




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[rubicant5x]

Fellas,

Not to hijack the thread, but can any of you comment on the 8Y vs 8V (for those that have switched) in terms of front braking ability between the two models? I am wondering if retrofitting with the 6-piston Akebono fronts over the 8-piston (old AF) Brembo is worth making the jump. Thanks in advance.

[DrMerl]

Fellas,

Not to hijack the thread, but can any of you comment on the 8Y vs 8V (for those that have switched) in terms of front braking ability between the two models? I am wondering if retrofitting with the 6-piston Akebono fronts over the 8-piston (old AF) Brembo is worth making the jump. Thanks in advance.

If you're going for a caliper swap I'd suggest the Essex 9660 kit, large improvement vs messing with the stock brakes (I did all the usual mods with stock calipers). All the pad types are available for this caliper.

[kevin#34]

thanks for your opinion, your theory sounds possible especially considering that discs are slotted and not drilled (drills help gasses to escape)... would a Ferodo DS 2500 pads swap cure the problem? I need a pad that can sustain road (cold) use and tolerate moderated track sessions (no more that 2/3 hot laps)

my theory is that when the discs get very hot during aggressive use the gasses generated between the pad and rotor during braking are not able to escape quickly enough creating this vibration. i agree it may be the pad material.

[kevin#34]

apparently no evident spotty/blotchy appearence, but I did not observe carfully the discs yet, will do this asap. The brakes set-up is quite new (no more than 1500 miles, and mainly on road at normal speed). Once I start driving spirited (even on road), the reported brake vibration starts very quick, this is quite surprising, considering that the OEM discs were sustaing "normal" fast driving much better, and their limit was evident only on track.
As it is now, very disappointed for having spent circa 1600$ on discs and pads, and having such a bad outcome

[QUOTE=stummiller;15079100]Are you seeing spotty or blotchy appearance on the rotor surface similar to this photo? This is pad smearing from using pads that are not tolerant to the heat produced from repeated heavy braking on a track. The brake vibration is most noticeable at medium to high speeds but will clear up over time from street use as long as brakes are kept relatively cool (abrasive mode of brakes).

[jh901]

8Y RS3

I'll plan to replace the front pads soon. One of the less dusty options cited in this thread. Do you guys get new brake fluid? What kind for a daily driver?

[S3DUDE]

Hey folks. Here is my experience with Isweep, remember, I am running Isweep on two 8Y RS3s. One of them is running Iweep 3000 front and rear and the other one I am running Isweep 3000 (Front) and Isweep 2000 rears. The Isweep 2000 are a big improvement for spirited driving with a lot more bite and stopping power(street/spirited driving) and ocasional road course.

Below are my I sweep 3000(Front) and Isweep 2000 (Rear) from two Time attack events already. the rears are pristine, almost virtually no wear. The fronts have like 90% life. Very solid pedal feel along with brake fluid(castrol SRF) and Neuspeed lines. I wholeheartedly think that these Isweep pads will serve you right for most of the track/road course needs. This is what I drive everyday and I don't switch them for the track, they stay in.

So far the OEM rotors are holding up, they are fresh with only 3800 miles and two time attacks but time will tell. If you have the cash always get two piece floating rotors and it you can make it rain obviously get APracing but for a lot of us that can't make it rain but still want to go to the track I promise you that The Isweep 3000 or even higher will do the trick.

Here is my link from my Time attack from this Saturday. Far improved compared to a couple of years ago on my 8V RS3 with neuspeed rotors, stock fluid, stock rear pads and Carbotech 1521. Front rotors didn't glow but the pedal went to the floor several times and I literally bite the dust(went off the track into the dirt). Again, that was my last set-up and now we are talking 8Y. My current set-up is far more solid, the castrol SRF fluid, correct pad compound and brake lines made a huge difference.

https://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...-some-feedback

[Speedy@88]

Did you install these pads on the original rotors or new ones?

Hey folks. Here is my experience with Isweep, remember, I am running Isweep on two 8Y RS3s. One of them is running Iweep 3000 front and rear and the other one I am running Isweep 3000 (Front) and Isweep 2000 rears. The Isweep 2000 are a big improvement for spirited driving with a lot more bite and stopping power(street/spirited driving) and ocasional road course.

Below are my I sweep 3000(Front) and Isweep 2000 (Rear) from two Time attack events already. the rears are pristine, almost virtually no wear. The fronts have like 90% life. Very solid pedal feel along with brake fluid(castrol SRF) and Neuspeed lines. I wholeheartedly think that these Isweep pads will serve you right for most of the track/road course needs. This is what I drive everyday and I don't switch them for the track, they stay in.

So far the OEM rotors are holding up, they are fresh with only 3800 miles and two time attacks but time will tell. If you have the cash always get two piece floating rotors and it you can make it rain obviously get APracing but for a lot of us that can't make it rain but still want to go to the track I promise you that The Isweep 3000 or even higher will do the trick.

Here is my link from my Time attack from this Saturday. Far improved compared to a couple of years ago on my 8V RS3 with neuspeed rotors, stock fluid, stock rear pads and Carbotech 1521. Front rotors didn't glow but the pedal went to the floor several times and I literally bite the dust(went off the track into the dirt). Again, that was my last set-up and now we are talking 8Y. My current set-up is far more solid, the castrol SRF fluid, correct pad compound and brake lines made a huge difference.

https://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...-some-feedback

[S3DUDE]

Did you install these pads on the original rotors or new ones?

I did not personally installed them, I had a local shop do it mainly because I couldn't tackle the rear pads myself without the SFD code and I did not have OBD 11. As per your question regarding the new pads on original rotors? Yes sir, the rotors are original and the car had like 3000 miles or less at the time (the car is a 2024).

I picked the Isweep 3000 fronts and Isweep 2000 based on Terry Tambayong recommendation upon a long conversation regarding my driving style and my driving needs. We came to the conclusion that I wanted more bite, more stopping power and something that I could hit the racetrack every month or every other month. So far I am wholeheartedly impressed with the results, the rotors are holding up very well and I see marginally no much wear. I only witnessed the front rotor getting a light glow on the front rotors (hardly visible). From what I understand and from what I seen there are many more raw options with Isweep.

If I had a ton of money to blow I would have picked a complete AP racing BBK kit but in all honesty I tried out this Isweep combo pads along with the 4 brake lines and Castrol fluid and is doing the trick.

[S3DUDE]

It's probably pad transfer, as you say. If I look at the cross-drilled holes they're nearly filled with brake dust. There aren't any discernible "grooves" that I can catch with a fingernail. Certainly no variance even close to 1mm. At best I think I'd describe the surface as slightly "wavy."

Including a couple photos below; not sure how helpful they'll be in this case though. At the moment I think I'm leaning toward just doing a pad slap and see how it goes.

PXL_20240611_162436066 (3).jpg
PXL_20240611_162448055 (1).jpg

My OEM front rotors dimples were also compacted with brake dust. I had to blast them with compressed air and even like that in some of them I had to poke them with a little scribe to clean the wholes. I also cleaned my brakes calipers very well with a rounded painters brusg and soapy water and later on with parts cleaner.

[Speedy@88]

Nice. I ordered the 3000/2000 combo based on few posts you made here. However I’m a little concerned because someone else had major smearing here with the 3000s up front. I’m not a newbie, and will be hitting the track soon. I was thinking maybe I should have gone with 2500 in the rear or 3500 in the front. I guess I’ll see how it goes. How’s the noise up front driving in the street?
I’m also getting neuspeed lines and endless brake fluid.

I did not personally installed them, I had a local shop do it mainly because I couldn't tackle the rear pads myself without the SFD code and I did not have OBD 11. As per your question regarding the new pads on original rotors? Yes sir, the rotors are original and the car had like 3000 miles or less at the time (the car is a 2024).

I picked the Isweep 3000 fronts and Isweep 2000 based on Terry Tambayong recommendation upon a long conversation regarding my driving style and my driving needs. We came to the conclusion that I wanted more bite, more stopping power and something that I could hit the racetrack every month or every other month. So far I am wholeheartedly impressed with the results, the rotors are holding up very well and I see marginally no much wear. I only witnessed the front rotor getting a light glow on the front rotors (hardly visible). From what I understand and from what I seen there are many more raw options with Isweep.

If I had a ton of money to blow I would have picked a complete AP racing BBK kit but in all honesty I tried out this Isweep combo pads along with the 4 brake lines and Castrol fluid and is doing the trick.

[S3DUDE]

Nice. I ordered the 3000/2000 combo based on few posts you made here. However I’m a little concerned because someone else had major smearing here with the 3000s up front. I’m not a newbie, and will be hitting the track soon. I was thinking maybe I should have gone with 2500 in the rear or 3500 in the front. I guess I’ll see how it goes. How’s the noise up front driving in the street?
I’m also getting neuspeed lines and endless brake fluid.

^^ Good to hear. I tracked the car on a track that doesn't give you a lot of time/space to cool off (literally). This track is very small(1400 yards) and you are using the brakes a lot and I don't think it allows the brakes to cool off as much as you would like. I have been on much bigger tracks from my house as well, like podium club (Atessa) with a 3000 ft straight and most of the track you don't have to use the brakes much at all and when you do is just momentarily. Inde motorsports is the same way, long 2900ft straight and you have to just tap the brakes a few times but not too hard. The two examples that I gave you were just as a reference, I haven't ran the RS3 on the other two tracks but I have taken my other cars as a comparison and they are easier on the brakes. With that in mind I think you should do just fine.

The ISweep 3000f/Isweep 2000 combo is very quiet. Obviously there will be a compromise whenever you start going higher with the track focus compound vs the street focus compound. I picked this combo with one thing on mind and that is to leave these pads on the car the whole time, that says it all, I wanted a dual mode brake pad capable of doing the street and track but also improve the braking on the street. I am running the Sweep 2000F and rear on the other 8Y RS3 and my wife loves it, it stops in a dime. these isweep2000 rear pads were absolutely pristine after the racetrack, obviously the 20% rear bias has a lot to do with it (low wear).

For the price range I firmly believe that Isweeps are an incredible value. If the rotors keep holding up and the pads keep performing so good providing firm pedal and powerful bite I would then most likely keep them but I could also try a Isweep 2500 on the rears although I don't think is necessary. Either way I will draw the line and wouldn't go past the Isweep 3500. I considered the Frodo DS2500 but I don't think they were released on the 8Y platform. Talking to Jerry Tambayong (Manager at Neuspeed) helped me tremendously as he is truly involved on the end result and love to hear the feedback from his products. This is nothing new, I have been talking to him back 7-8 years ago when I had the Audi S3 and he was releasing the 6 piston BBK specific to the S3 8V platform. another good plus is the product itself, it is 100% genuinely made in Japan. Go ahead and try them and see if you like them, they are not that pricey anyways. The only downside on this second track day for me was a slight vibration from the rotors when slowing down in traffic, I probably developed a small hot spot and might have warped the rotor slightly. My plan be would be to eventually put some lightweight rotors but that is later on.

[kevin#34]

quick update: the vibration was due to heavy pads smearing on the disc surface (the black strip visible on the first picture) , so I reinstalled the OEM pads and after some driving (from soft to moderate breaking) the disc surface got completely cleaned (second picture) and the vibration gone...
now think I would throw the HP 2000 in the bin and go for DS 2500...
also want to thank Mike@girodisc for the precious support!

apologize for briefly hi-jacking the tread, but I'd like to hear opinions about an annoying issue I am experiencing with my current brake set-up (Girodisc + OEM TT-RS 8S calipers + Brembo HP2000 street pads):
after a proper 500 miles bedding procedure (both discs and pads were brand new), when I do heavy prolonged brakings, I face an abnormal vibration on the pedal... If I let the brakes cool down for a while (let's say 20/30 sec) at the next braking the symptom is not present anymore, except for reoccuring once the brakes are used in heavy manner again..
Any idea? personally, I believe the discs are not the cause, since at cold/normal road use, vibrations are totally absent and the braking is perfect... could be the pads material or spec, that maybe do not match with the discs?

[S3DUDE]

^^ That is good to know. I haven't put any miles since last Saturday track day (9 days ago). i think I am on the same boat with slight racepad residual that I expect it to clear. I wouldn't swap to the stocks because it would defeat the purpose on why I picked these track/street pads in the first place but I will report within the next few days to see if the small brake vibration clears up with the usage. Definitely stand by for an update (everyone).

[Speedy@88]

What camber did you run on the track and how did the tires hold up?

^^ That is good to know. I haven't put any miles since last Saturday track day (9 days ago). i think I am on the same boat with slight racepad residual that I expect it to clear. I wouldn't swap to the stocks because it would defeat the purpose on why I picked these track/street pads in the first place but I will report within the next few days to see if the small brake vibration clears up with the usage. Definitely stand by for an update (everyone).

[S3DUDE]

What camber did you run on the track and how did the tires hold up?

Stock factory camber and shockingly the tires worn out evenly from side to side. Not even the slightest sign of wear on the outer edge. We piled up 37 laps on our first time attack and 43 on the second time attack. I would say though that the tredwear is at 2/32 literally where the yellow line meets the red line on the tire wear gauge.

Honestly I was expecting a distinctive wear pattern on the outer edge but it did not happened. Although the tires are at 3900 miles now I think they don't have much life specially considering the 2/32. I am not touching the camber/toe until I get the new sticky tires within the next few days.

I was contacting some vendors for wheels/tire package but there is not much of a sale or discount so it looks like I might just stick with the OEM wheel and just upgrade to the stickier tire.

[Speedy@88]

Wow, that is surprising. But also very good to hear! I’m worried that the stock max front camber which I believe is only -1.5 or -1.4 would destroy the outer edges. I was thinking about getting the 034 Motorsport adjusting ball joints for more camber up front, but would have to either remove or cut a part of the dust/heat shield for them to fit.
This kind of makes me just go out there and try it out with factory camber. I did lower the rear camber to match the front in the previous alignment. Definitely don’t want more negative in the rear than front. My goal is the opposite.

Stock factory camber and shockingly the tires worn out evenly from side to side. Not even the slightest sign of wear on the outer edge. We piled up 37 laps on our first time attack and 43 on the second time attack. I would say though that the tredwear is at 2/32 literally where the yellow line meets the red line on the tire wear gauge.

Honestly I was expecting a distinctive wear pattern on the outer edge but it did not happened. Although the tires are at 3900 miles now I think they don't have much life specially considering the 2/32. I am not touching the camber/toe until I get the new sticky tires within the next few days.

I was contacting some vendors for wheels/tire package but there is not much of a sale or discount so it looks like I might just stick with the OEM wheel and just upgrade to the stickier tire.

[S3DUDE]

I have a significant update to share (excellent news). Today I put nearly 70 miles in 3 hours of lots of errands around town and picking up my son from school. My brakes no longer vibrate at low speed. It seems like my rotors had some smearing residual from the front brake pads from the Time attack 10 days ago. It was definitely noticeable but not terrible. I cleaned the pads, calipers and rotors and I washed everything with a round brush and parts cleaner, however, the residual was "glue to the rotor".

It turned out that I simply did not put miles on the car enough to "resurface" the rotors by just driving around. Today I drove nearly 3 hours mostly in traffic and it seems like it cleared out the brake residual from the racing pads. This is another hassle out of the way. I thought that I put a hotspot on the rotor but it does not seems to be the case. I sweep 3000 brake pads for the win on a dual purpose driving(street-track) on oem rotors.

[CMScheid]

If you're going for a caliper swap I'd suggest the Essex 9660 kit, large improvement vs messing with the stock brakes (I did all the usual mods with stock calipers). All the pad types are available for this caliper.

Has anyone done the Essex 9660 kit on an 8Y yet, that you know of? Are there any connections in here to get the Essex kit?

[S3DUDE]

Has anyone done the Essex 9660 kit on an 8Y yet, that you know of? Are there any connections in here to get the Essex kit?

I contacted them (Essex) a few months ago on their live chat, on an e-mail and over the phone and I don't think they had the kit ready for the 8Y. From my understanding they were waiting on Ferodo to be able to offer a combined product. There is a guy selling AP racing kit right now but is for the 8V otherwise I would be all over it but they changed the geometry on the rotor. You can also contact essex directly in the UK and probably save the middle man. It is a hit or miss with the distribuitor in the US, last year they had a huge sale (15 or 20%).

[Speedy@88]

I went out to a track event over the weekend. Shop installed 034 Motorsport ball joints which gave me about -2.4 camber in the front. Neuspeed steel lines, endless brake fluid and isweep 3000/2000 brake combo. Brakes were fine. Had some judder under heavy braking after couple of sessions, but I think it might be dust accumulation. They’re stopping good, but definitely vibrating.
I wanted to ask you about tires. I put trofeo Rs and went my first session at 31 psi front and 30 rear cold. Tires was an extreme rollover of the tires. Over time I adjusted to 37/33 cold and the temps would get up there to the point the car was slidey. Not sure if the trofeos need a lot more camber . What did you start out at cold pressure in general?

[S3DUDE]

I went out to a track event over the weekend. Shop installed 034 Motorsport ball joints which gave me about -2.4 camber in the front. Neuspeed steel lines, endless brake fluid and isweep 3000/2000 brake combo. Brakes were fine. Had some judder under heavy braking after couple of sessions, but I think it might be dust accumulation. They’re stopping good, but definitely vibrating.
I wanted to ask you about tires. I put trofeo Rs and went my first session at 31 psi front and 30 rear cold. Tires was an extreme rollover of the tires. Over time I adjusted to 37/33 cold and the temps would get up there to the point the car was slidey. Not sure if the trofeos need a lot more camber . What did you start out at cold pressure in general?

I normally arrive at the local track with warm tires , typically in the high 40's (49PSI or so). The track is like 35 minutes away from my house. Before we are racing on our first session we drop the tire pressure down to 40 or so. After the first session it goes up again so our sweet spot is around 38PSi. In summary, we see an increase of PSI going up like 14-15 psi total combined after driving on the street plus driving it for a coupe of sessions at the track.

The Trofeos (your trofeos) at 30-31 PSI on cold seems like very low to me. How many miles do you have on your rotors? are your rotors OEM? My rotors had a small vibration after the second session but it went away after driving 70 miles doing errands. It was just brake pad residual smeared. I did cleaned the rotors and calipers well, I gave it a good wash, cleaned the calipers with a brush and blasted the rotors crossdrilled holes with compressed air and sprayed brake cleaner. I think that you would agree with me that the IS3000/IS2000 is one heck of a Hybrid combo brake alternative(track/street). Just curious but do you torque your wheels? I do. it can make a big difference. I am going to be doing a Time Attack at the Musselman Honda Circuit this Saturday. I haven't even touched my camber yet, in fact I don't have an alignment since putting the KW V3 5-6 months ago.. A buddy of mine has a shop that specialized on track custom alignments but I don't want anything aggressive. I am very happy with my KW V3 combo and Neuspeed sway bar but I am looking to get the 275/30/19 Falcon Azenis RT660 and 245/35/19 to put the cherry on the cake.

[Speedy@88]

I had a chance to do couple of more track days. You’re right, seems like 38 or 39 psi is a good spot. I also noticed that starting out 33 psi cold front and rear, combined with taking it easy the first warm up lap, gets the tires in good range.
However, these trofeo r tires most definitely need more negative camber. Looks like -3 at the minimum or more. Mine look like only one half of the tire is being used. Getting pretty chewed up, where the other half looks good.

In regards to those brake pads, so far a pretty good experience. They’re stopping well, however 3500 might be a better option for very fast and aggressive because of higher temp rating. I noticed they are wearing out quick under heat.

Also seems, most of the noise does come from combination of dust deposit and pad transfer on the rotor itself.

I think RT660 is a good tire for a lighter car. Not so much for RS3. Wish Hankook made their RS4 tire in 19in sizes that fit our cars. Those tires wear like a tank and don’t require extreme camber. They’re a bit slower, but who cares.

I normally arrive at the local track with warm tires , typically in the high 40's (49PSI or so). The track is like 35 minutes away from my house. Before we are racing on our first session we drop the tire pressure down to 40 or so. After the first session it goes up again so our sweet spot is around 38PSi. In summary, we see an increase of PSI going up like 14-15 psi total combined after driving on the street plus driving it for a coupe of sessions at the track.

The Trofeos (your trofeos) at 30-31 PSI on cold seems like very low to me. How many miles do you have on your rotors? are your rotors OEM? My rotors had a small vibration after the second session but it went away after driving 70 miles doing errands. It was just brake pad residual smeared. I did cleaned the rotors and calipers well, I gave it a good wash, cleaned the calipers with a brush and blasted the rotors crossdrilled holes with compressed air and sprayed brake cleaner. I think that you would agree with me that the IS3000/IS2000 is one heck of a Hybrid combo brake alternative(track/street). Just curious but do you torque your wheels? I do. it can make a big difference. I am going to be doing a Time Attack at the Musselman Honda Circuit this Saturday. I haven't even touched my camber yet, in fact I don't have an alignment since putting the KW V3 5-6 months ago.. A buddy of mine has a shop that specialized on track custom alignments but I don't want anything aggressive. I am very happy with my KW V3 combo and Neuspeed sway bar but I am looking to get the 275/30/19 Falcon Azenis RT660 and 245/35/19 to put the cherry on the cake.

[S3DUDE]

I had a chance to do couple of more track days. You’re right, seems like 38 or 39 psi is a good spot. I also noticed that starting out 33 psi cold front and rear, combined with taking it easy the first warm up lap, gets the tires in good range.
However, these trofeo r tires most definitely need more negative camber. Looks like -3 at the minimum or more. Mine look like only one half of the tire is being used. Getting pretty chewed up, where the other half looks good.

In regards to those brake pads, so far a pretty good experience. They’re stopping well, however 3500 might be a better option for very fast and aggressive because of higher temp rating. I noticed they are wearing out quick under heat.

Also seems, most of the noise does come from combination of dust deposit and pad transfer on the rotor itself.

I think RT660 is a good tire for a lighter car. Not so much for RS3. Wish Hankook made their RS4 tire in 19in sizes that fit our cars. Those tires wear like a tank and don’t require extreme camber. They’re a bit slower, but who cares.

Good to hear you liked the 3000/2000 combo. For me it was a matter of a true hybrid combo, more focused on ocasional track days with 95% of the driving on city driving. My OEM rotors are in great condition, minor brake pad smearing on my second track day that developed on a tiny vibration braking at low speed. It cleared out after a busy day doing errands for 3 hours/70 miles driving in the city. I might adventure on the Iweep 3500 but in the future, so far the Iswep 3000 have been performing truly exceptional. The rear Isweep 2000 are so good too, absolutely minimal signs of wear.

The 3 degrees of camber is a gamble. You can try it and see how it goes, if you are a hardcore track guy then 3 degrees is the way to go but for me I am more conservative. Back to the noise on the brake pad, I recommend you do a nice wash around the caliper area. I cleaned mine with a brush, soapy water, brake cleaner, rinse it with water and dried it up with compressed air. Another thing I recommend is to unplug (clean) the drill rotor holes because they are likely packed with brake dust.

As per the tires choice. Yes, the Hankook makes the RS4 but only the rears fits the OEM size.

[stummiller]

Hey kevin#34, did you ever sort out the braking vibrations? I recently swapped my oe rotors back on with Carbotech XP-12 pads and pad smear + vibrations returned. Going put the Griodiscs back on and try Carbotech XP-20 or go back to Endless ME-20s.

[kevin#34]

yes, definitely solved (see post #147), vibrations totally disapperead