2010 A4 Engine Rebuild

[FrkyMnky1487]

Hi,
This is my first post here, but I was hoping to get a bit of help. My A4 burns around 1L per 300kms, so it appears I need new pistons. It only has 93k kms. I’m stationed in Japan, will put less than 10k annually and will only have the car a max of 3 more years. So I’m trying to get it fixed while not spending the $4k FCP is asking for their kit.

A couple of direct questions.

Can I replace with the 21mm updated pistons and likely be ok? I realize they aren’t the most updated, but I don’t believe I have the 23mm rods, so I’m trying to save money.

Are the rod bearings ok to be reused if in good shape?

How do I know if I have a notched or non notched camshaft? I see in the manual that drives different procedures.

What Audi tools do I NEED and which can I do without?

Any and all advice is appreciated. Thank you.

[connor123me]

Hi,
This is my first post here, but I was hoping to get a bit of help. My A4 burns around 1L per 300kms, so it appears I need new pistons. It only has 93k kms. I’m stationed in Japan, will put less than 10k annually and will only have the car a max of 3 more years. So I’m trying to get it fixed while not spending the $4k FCP is asking for their kit.

A couple of direct questions.

Can I replace with the 21mm updated pistons and likely be ok? I realize they aren’t the most updated, but I don’t believe I have the 23mm rods, so I’m trying to save money.

Are the rod bearings ok to be reused if in good shape?

How do I know if I have a notched or non notched camshaft? I see in the manual that drives different procedures.

What Audi tools do I NEED and which can I do without?

Any and all advice is appreciated. Thank you.

You do not need the FCP kit. I'm sure I'll have some Audi Tech Bootlickers come up my rear for this one but...... Get the Chinese kit. https://www.ebay.com/itm/38522337866...Bk9SR6bN9pSOYQ

I rebuilt my 2009 A4 with this kit when I was 16 years old. I never replaced main bearings, but you will likely want to replace the rod bearings.
I put about 60k miles on that build with chinese pistons, timing kit and head gasket. It worked great. It got the absolute piss beaten out of it (think 16 year old with a k04 Audi type piss beating)
I ran that thing so hard, it would see speeds in excess of 130mph daily, and often for minutes on end (I commuted between high school and college every day so I had about a 22 minute drive I routinely sliced down to 11-12 minutes)
I ran the engine so damn hard I actually blew my K03, one of the impeller blades on the turbo literally shattered off. After this I went to a KO4
Topped that thing out at 168mph in Nebraska once.

After 60k miles of beating it like it shouldn't exist, it still did not burn 1 drop of oil. What ended up failing was the upper timing chain guide that sits above the cam bridge (notoriously weak park)
So, I was actually happy to find out where the weak point of all those chinese parts was, and I did.
If I we're to do it again, I would but I would use an OEM upper timing guide. Everything else- even at KO4 Power (with methanol injection daily running a 104oct tune ~350hp) held up wonderfully.

So- I would save your money and just get a ~$500 kit especially when it sounds like you don't use the car that often.
As for tools, I can probably send what you'll need later when I have more time as I've rebuilt the EA888.2 motor 3 or 4 times now

[FrkyMnky1487]

Hey thanks for taking the time to reply and appreciate the advice. I’ll definitely take a look at that kit and maybe compare it to the OE parts. Was hoping to not mess with the timing chain, except to remove head. Figure at 56k miles that I could forgo replacing the chain and guides.

[Chillaxin]

I think JE makes some pistons that have the appropriate rings for 21mm wrist pins. You likely would need to file the rings for those though. I recommend using new rod bearings, a new timing chain tensioner, timing chain, and the 3 timing guides. There are a lot of torque to yield bolts as well. You can reseal your injectors and replace gaskets on a lot of things rather than replace the entire parts. I would also recommend replacing your rear main with the upgraded OEM style, and not reuse your lower front timing cover. Both are pretty cheap on FCP or elsewhere. Highly recommend replacing your water pump too if you have the extra $. I did my 2012 CAEB (I was lucky to have 23mm rods) for about $2k. I have link to parts list on here if you search. I would watch a few of Naptown Tuner's youtube videos about removing and rebuilding the 2.0T. He covers just about everything. Feel free to ask more questions.

[Theiceman]

I think JE makes some pistons that have the appropriate rings for 21mm wrist pins. You likely would need to file the rings for those though. I recommend using new rod bearings, a new timing chain tensioner, timing chain, and the 3 timing guides. There are a lot of torque to yield bolts as well. You can reseal your injectors and replace gaskets on a lot of things rather than replace the entire parts. I would also recommend replacing your rear main with the upgraded OEM style, and not reuse your lower front timing cover. Both are pretty cheap on FCP or elsewhere. Highly recommend replacing your water pump too if you have the extra $. I did my 2012 CAEB (I was lucky to have 23mm rods) for about $2k. I have link to parts list on here if you search. I would watch a few of Naptown Tuner's youtube videos about removing and rebuilding the 2.0T. He covers just about everything. Feel free to ask more questions.

pretty solid recommendations there.

[FrkyMnky1487]

Would you say all of that is needed at 56k miles? I don’t mind spending the money if I have to, but anything I spend I’ll never see and truthfully, these are basically beaters here. Nicer beaters than all of the Suburus, but still, $7k beater.

[Theiceman]

you can do as good or as a crap job as you like .. you have been given solid advice .. now go and do half a job if you see fit, but i dont think anyone here is going to tell you go do the crap job that you want to do . this job requires complete engine removal and associated work. if you cant handle that sell it and go buy a POS .. toyota.. sorry to be so blunt but we are trying to tell you what to do, to do it right.

[FrkyMnky1487]

you can do as good or as a crap job as you like .. you have been given solid advice .. now go and do half a job if you see fit, but i dont think anyone here is going to tell you go do the crap job that you want to do . this job requires complete engine removal and associated work. if you cant handle that sell it and go buy a POS .. toyota.. sorry to be so blunt but we are trying to tell you what to do, to do it right.

How is asking if a timing chain needs to be replaced at 56k a crap job? Instead of taking all those words to be a dick, you could of possibly answered the question. I don’t have an issue replacing the whole damn car if I have to and more than have the means to do so. But why the hell would I replace components on a “it’s a good idea” basis when I’m selling the car in 3 years and unlikely to drive more than 20k?

If it needs to happen because the thing fails at 50-60k, then so be it. But damn, stop being a dick. Sorry to be so blunt…

[Kolbenringe]

You do not need the FCP kit. I'm sure I'll have some Audi Tech Bootlickers come up my rear for this one but...... Get the Chinese kit. https://www.ebay.com/itm/38522337866...Bk9SR6bN9pSOYQ

I rebuilt my 2009 A4 with this kit when I was 16 years old. I never replaced main bearings, but you will likely want to replace the rod bearings.
I put about 60k miles on that build with chinese pistons, timing kit and head gasket. It worked great. It got the absolute piss beaten out of it (think 16 year old with a k04 Audi type piss beating)
I ran that thing so hard, it would see speeds in excess of 130mph daily, and often for minutes on end (I commuted between high school and college every day so I had about a 22 minute drive I routinely sliced down to 11-12 minutes)
I ran the engine so damn hard I actually blew my K03, one of the impeller blades on the turbo literally shattered off. After this I went to a KO4
Topped that thing out at 168mph in Nebraska once.

After 60k miles of beating it like it shouldn't exist, it still did not burn 1 drop of oil. What ended up failing was the upper timing chain guide that sits above the cam bridge (notoriously weak park)
So, I was actually happy to find out where the weak point of all those chinese parts was, and I did.
If I we're to do it again, I would but I would use an OEM upper timing guide. Everything else- even at KO4 Power (with methanol injection daily running a 104oct tune ~350hp) held up wonderfully.

So- I would save your money and just get a ~$500 kit especially when it sounds like you don't use the car that often.
As for tools, I can probably send what you'll need later when I have more time as I've rebuilt the EA888.2 motor 3 or 4 times now

This bold parts of this post reads like something that never happened.

[Kolbenringe]

IMO, it's cheap insurance if you don't want to do a full timing job, once it's open, ALWAYS change the chain and it's up to you on the main tensioner so long as you have the last revision. I had the oil consumption fix like 30k km after I changed the timing chains and tensioner and I had them put a new chain it just so I could start from zero there.

My engine was rebuilt at 109k km, I have the OE bearings that were replaced- they were fine and showed nothing of note and barely any wear. I would also recommend replacing the rear main. You can buy pistons with pre-gapped and pre-installed rings from Kolbenschmidt and others for good prices.

The one-time bolts and gaskets will add quite a bit. There will also be "while I'm in there" issues and gaskets and broken parts which will, at the least, extend the timeframe of the build if you have to keep reordering.

[FrkyMnky1487]

IMO, it's cheap insurance if you don't want to do a full timing job, once it's open, ALWAYS change the chain and it's up to you on the main tensioner so long as you have the last revision. I had the oil consumption fix like 30k km after I changed the timing chains and tensioner and I had them put a new chain it just so I could start from zero there.

My engine was rebuilt at 109k km, I have the OE bearings that were replaced- they were fine and showed nothing of note and barely any wear. I would also recommend replacing the rear main. You can buy pistons with pre-gapped and pre-installed rings from Kolbenschmidt and others for good prices.

The one-time bolts and gaskets will add quite a bit. There will also be "while I'm in there" issues and gaskets and broken parts which will, at the least, extend the timeframe of the build if you have to keep reordering.

Thanks for the answers. Planning on grabbing OEM parts as much as possible to save some cash. Found a seller for the Kolbenschmidt DM pistons and rods for $700, so may go that route over the AM. Thinking about buying some of the parts that I may not need, timing chain components, rod bearings, etc. from AutohausAZ so they can be returned if they check out. Again, not trying to skimp on the job, but I’m not trying to waste money. Hopefully I don’t have to many issues that pop up as I either have to pay ¥ at about 4x the cost or wait a month to have it shipped from states.

Again though, that’s part of why I’m asking this.

[Kolbenringe]

Thanks for the answers. Planning on grabbing OEM parts as much as possible to save some cash. Found a seller for the Kolbenschmidt DM pistons and rods for $700, so may go that route over the AM. Thinking about buying some of the parts that I may not need, timing chain components, rod bearings, etc. from AutohausAZ so they can be returned if they check out. Again, not trying to skimp on the job, but I’m not trying to waste money. Hopefully I don’t have to many issues that pop up as I either have to pay ¥ at about 4x the cost or wait a month to have it shipped from states.

Again though, that’s part of why I’m asking this.

IMO, there's absolutely no reason to change the connecting rods. Just get replacement pistons to fit the rods and wrist pins you have. I am guessing Audi did this because this is what they had available and what could be manufactured in the pipeline most efficiently. Get the Kolbenschmidt pistons with the slotted oil rings for 21mm and be done with it. Invest in getting good gaskets, gasket material, fasteners, and other stuff along the way that may not be good. Have a coil plug or two on hand as well. I would also look into getting the head surface checked and leveled out. Be prepared for a water pump replacement, engine mounts, various hoses.

[mc_hotmail]

Replacing pistons and rods may be over kill especially for low mileage and civilized driven B8. If you don't see severe ware on the piston skirt, just replace the rings to the waffle style to solve the oil burning issue.

[Kolbenringe]

Replacing pistons and rods may be over kill especially for low mileage and civilized driven B8. If you don't see severe ware on the piston skirt, just replace the rings to the waffle style to solve the oil burning issue.

The waffle style rings fit the slots for the very thin stock rings with no modifications?

[Theiceman]

locally i am seeing here now shops are doing a "budget' reapir.

they fix it for around 3k by taking the pistons and rings out. sending them out for cleaning and putting everything original back. telling owners they will geta bout 50-60K miles before seeing the issue again.

given how long it takes this issue to crop up i find that is a reasonably accurate estimate.

Not my choice of paths but i can see that for people who want it fixed but dont want to spend a fortune and plan to only keep it a few years if that.

[connor123me]

locally i am seeing here now shops are doing a "budget' reapir.

they fix it for around 3k by taking the pistons and rings out. sending them out for cleaning and putting everything original back. telling owners they will geta bout 50-60K miles before seeing the issue again.

given how long it takes this issue to crop up i find that is a reasonably accurate estimate.

Not my choice of paths but i can see that for people who want it fixed but dont want to spend a fortune and plan to only keep it a few years if that.

This is crazy, a set of rings for 4 pistons is like $30

[Kolbenringe]

No way on original rings will the customers get that mileage out before the problem appears again. More likely, there will be some oil burning from the beginning, but much more acceptable and enough to sell the car. To not put new rings on is totally nuts and I don't really believe that there are people doing that except out of their own garages. It's practically impossible to clean the oil rings, holes, and the grooves without removing them and I have my old rings and the deposits are rock hard and need aggressive cleaning, but the main issue is getting those pinholes clean and I don't believe they will be unclogged without someone's labor to poke them one by one, making it better economy to just put new rings on. Same for the drainback holes on the pistons. They need to be really reamed if they're not enlarged.

[Theiceman]

This is crazy, a set of rings for 4 pistons is like $30

im not sure you can even get the original rings anymore and i dont think the new waffle style fits those lands. Which i think is the issue. not sure though as i am hearing this second hand. Me I would do the exact job i did exactly the same way again.