High Mileage B9’s -Post Your Mileage

[sixpakldp]

Curious as to what the highest mileage some folks have on their B9’s and what the experience has been like. I came from Acura and my last one had 167K on it when I traded it in. Bought my ‘18 just under 30k mi last February and have 40k. Curious to see what you can expect in these cars. I tend to keep mine a long time if I like them and I love this car thus far.

[jhAudi]

Would also be interested to know what people have to say on this. I have an 18 as well but just under 39k on it and nothing but regular maintenance so far. Seems Audi does poorly in reliability ratings but having watched these forum for a while there doesn't seem to be many B9 owners having issues. I also came to the S5 from owning Acura's. The car is a million times more fun to drive than the last couple Acuras I had. Well maybe not a million times but the S5 inside/outside/power/braking is better in every way. I can't say I miss anything about the TLX. Even with the V6 that car was just boring to drive in comparison.

[Sibmets]

Not really high milage, but my B9 is 2017 (3.0 TDi 200 kw) got 120k km (~75k miles) and I have had it for 3 years and I've driven around 70k km myself in it.
And I've had two defects.
Recently I had to replace a piece of wiring coming from rear pax door for door unlock/lock sensor, because it was corroded - cost me only 11€ and last year I had two front bushings replaced - those were around 80€ for both. And that's all, the car has been very reliable, even took it to Nürburgring while driving across Europe for 3 weeks and 5500 km - no complaints.

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[DCB1951]

45 months, 39,099 miles. A flaky, overly-sensitive motion detection alarm system that I will bring up at the 40k service next week.

That's it. No other problems. Phenomenal machine.

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[VVG]

Curious as to what the highest mileage some folks have on their B9’s and what the experience has been like. I came from Acura and my last one had 167K on it when I traded it in. Bought my ‘18 just under 30k mi last February and have 40k. Curious to see what you can expect in these cars. I tend to keep mine a long time if I like them and I love this car thus far.

Stock vehicles under about 60,000 miles will be just fine. Problems on these cars start after that, especially if you have a modded ECU. Plumbing leaks, sensors failing, coolant and fuel pressure problems are not uncommon.

[Helios_RS5]

Stock vehicles under about 60,000 miles will be just fine. Problems on these cars start after that, especially if you have a modded ECU. Plumbing leaks, sensors failing, coolant and fuel pressure problems are not uncommon.

Crying in my stage 1 rs5 with 28k miles (no issues so far, fingers crossed)

[VVG]

Crying in my stage 1 rs5 with 28k miles (no issues so far, fingers crossed)

My new RS5 is my 4th Audi. I have modified all of them previously including a stage 3+ B5 S4 that had well over $30k in mods back in the early 2000s, so maybe over $40k today. My advice is to focus on the cooling if you want to maintain longevity. Also, on my last 2 vehicles, an S6 and a Porsche Macan, I went back to stock on the ECU at 50-55k miles. Parts get older and less tolerant of the increased stresses of more power.

[AndreiMTM]

My S5 has 78k miles on it. No issues so far outside of maintenance. Although they did mention at my last service that the tie rod bushings are starting to age and should be replaced soon


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[c99]

Stock vehicles under about 60,000 miles will be just fine. Problems on these cars start after that, especially if you have a modded ECU. Plumbing leaks, sensors failing, coolant and fuel pressure problems are not uncommon.

You should say with incorrectly modified ECU. Even sensor failing, coolant and fuel pressure problems have nothing to do with modified ECU.

[VVG]

You should say with incorrectly modified ECU. Even sensor failing, coolant and fuel pressure problems have nothing to do with modified ECU.

I disagree with this. Here's why.....

Anything that requires components to work closer to their limits, and/or generates more heat will lead to an increased risk of premature failure of a component. What I am saying is that don't expect that you can just slap on a tuned ECU and go about your business as if you had done nothing. One approach is to only use that extra capability once in a while. However, it is hard to resist tapping into that extra power. One needs to also increase the capacity and tolerances of other components if one wants to maintain OEM levels of stress tolerance. Larger intercooler, additional oil cooler, larger oil pan, higher capacity radiator, larger fuel injectors, higher pressure fuel pump, stronger silicone hoses throughout, extra thermal wrapping or shielding in select locations. Depending on your level of extra power, and how often you like to mash your accelerator is going to determine how much extra precaution you may want to take in order to maintain a higher level of reliability. Again, this is all in the context of the reliability of higher mileage vehicles, which was the original issue in this thread.

[humphammer]

I disagree with this. Here's why.....

Anything that requires components to work closer to their limits, and/or generates more heat will lead to an increased risk of premature failure of a component. What I am saying is that don't expect that you can just slap on a tuned ECU and go about your business as if you had done nothing. One approach is to only use that extra capability once in a while. However, it is hard to resist tapping into that extra power. One needs to also increase the capacity and tolerances of other components if one wants to maintain OEM levels of stress tolerance. Larger intercooler, additional oil cooler, larger oil pan, higher capacity radiator, larger fuel injectors, higher pressure fuel pump, stronger silicone hoses throughout, extra thermal wrapping or shielding in select locations. Depending on your level of extra power, and how often you like to mash your accelerator is going to determine how much extra precaution you may want to take in order to maintain a higher level of reliability. Again, this is all in the context of the reliability of higher mileage vehicles, which was the original issue in this thread.

034 says their tunes have built in safeguards to keep that from happening. I can see where keeping your foot in it constantly would cause excessive heat buildup but why would cruising at 70 on the interstate between say Knoxville and Nashville make a tuned car run any hotter than stock?

[VVG]

It won't at all. But using all that extra power frequently will. That's all I am saying. And irrespective of what any tuner may say, there is no way you can call for more power and not increase the inherent stress and heat on the components.

[sixpakldp]

Appreciate all the responses. Actually while the tuning discussion is a bit controversial, it’s good to hear both sides of the argument. When the option is on the table to spend $800 - $1k and get some substantial increases at stage 1, it’s a tempting proposition. In my case my car was purchased with a 3-year warranty even though it’s an ‘18. I don’t plan on doing anything in that time frame to void the warranty. I’m paying quite a bit extra for that peace of mind. However once that points up, it’s tempting.

Prior to this discussion I’d be of the opinion if you get to 70-80k, most major issues would have popped up by that point less wear and tear, but perhaps not. Sounds like anything beyond 60k is prone to non-wear and tear failure, but some have had positive experiences.

That said, what I was really after is if you take good care of your car can you expect to get 100-130k out of them, or should you really start thinking about trading it in at a certain point before that due to excessive repairs (not normal wear and tear).

[humphammer]

It won't at all. But using all that extra power frequently will. That's all I am saying. And irrespective of what any tuner may say, there is no way you can call for more power and not increase the inherent stress and heat on the components.

I agree, keeping your foot in it regardless of a tune or not is gonna create more heat and reduce the longevity of any car. Doing so on a boosted and tuned car even more so. And I know from experience it's hard to have that extra power at your disposal and not use it. My son has a 2015 Mustang GT that has been tuned and has close to 100,000 miles with zero issues but the GT is normally aspirated so there is a bit less stress on the engine I would assume. Thanks for your reply.

Here is 034's response to the question. Notice they do agree with your assessment that their tune does create more heat.

When you purchase our Stage 1 tuning, you will get the ability to flash all octanes.
You can safely run our software on a bone stock car without issue. Yes, these cars do generate a lot of heat - but our tuning will keep you safe.
When developing our tuning for the EA839, we implemented key safety features to keep your engine running optimally and safely in virtually any condition - just like the OEM calibration. These were then verified by us on track through multiple high-temperature track events with our vehicles. This keeps the engine in your car happy and safe, providing consistent and repeatable power.
https://youtu.be/dFBmzTZYLKc

[humphammer]

Appreciate all the responses. Actually while the tuning discussion is a bit controversial, it’s good to hear both sides of the argument. When the option is on the table to spend $800 - $1k and get some substantial increases at stage 1, it’s a tempting proposition. In my case my car was purchased with a 3-year warranty even though it’s an ‘18. I don’t plan on doing anything in that time frame to void the warranty. I’m paying quite a bit extra for that peace of mind. However once that points up, it’s tempting.

Prior to this discussion I’d be of the opinion if you get to 70-80k, most major issues would have popped up by that point less wear and tear, but perhaps not. Sounds like anything beyond 60k is prone to non-wear and tear failure, but some have had positive experiences.

That said, what I was really after is if you take good care of your car can you expect to get 100-130k out of them, or should you really start thinking about trading it in at a certain point before that due to excessive repairs (not normal wear and tear).

In my experience with German cars, it's best to trade at around 100,000 miles. I've owned two BMW's one Mercedes and two Audi's. They are all pretty reliable cars, but when they break, you'd better have some deep pockets lined with money to fix them. Just the normal services like brake job's, transmission fluid changes and replacement of spark plugs are 2-3 times more expensive than most American and Asian built cars. Nothing drives like them though!

[mpo77]

2018 RS5 (completely stock, no mods) owner here with 38k miles. Has been a reliability nightmare this year, in the shop 5 times for check engine light. All instances related to Turbo Wastegate Fault. Audi dealer has been unable to fix. Presently, car has been at the dealer for 4 weeks. Factory warranty expires in 4 days and I'll be trading in the car as soon as I get it back. Needless to say, after 2 Audis ('13 S5, '18 RS5) I'll be switching to another brand. Certainly, all brands will have issues, but have been extremely disappointed in Audi Chandler's inability to fix this recurring issue.

Will start a separate thread with more details after I get rid of it.

[sixpakldp]

That’s good information for sure. I did the 40k maintenance on my own, parts alone were more expensive.

[b9pressure]

18 s5 sb is my first audi. Bought it CPO from the dealer at 42k miles. I just hit 70k. So far just a window motor/regulator and now need control arms which my mechanic says is a common audi thing.

[rayray]

Original owner of my ‘19 S5 SB with a little more than 89k. No issues thus far with standard maintenance at the normal intervals.


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[Nzdan]

Bumping this, interested to see where people are at for mileage a couple of years further down the road?

[SlowRolla]

Just hit 60k on my 2019.

[cdigiovanni]

Ran my 2019 rs5 to 89k before trading for 24 comp rs5

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[ingraha3]

2018 B9 A5 with IE Stage I @ 52K.
No issues except water pump replacement.
Great car!

[Sibmets]

2017 A4 B9 3.0 TDi 272ps + MTM chip running fine at 150k km, has been with me from 2019 and 55k km.

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[DCB1951]

Just crossed 63,200 miles after 66 months. Last month the water pump failed and leaked into the vacuum system; had to get it all replaced for beacoup bux. Otherwise, a perfect car. Still absolutely love it, and I take any excuse possible to drive it.

[okie21]

2018 S5 Coupe, 65k miles. Bought it 6 months ago with 53k miles. So far, so good

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[Mortys66]

I came into the Audi group knowing that I put about 25k miles a year on my vehicles and was looking for the best daily driver car to make my commute enjoyable (or as fun as a commute from Indianapolis to Chicago can possibly be). I chose the '19 RS5 Sportback as my vehicle because the car was checking more boxes for me than any of the other vehicles I was researching in 2019. I wanted the German built car because they are well built and have a proven drive train that can take abuse from higher than stock power. I bought mine new June of 2019 and now I am at about 122k miles on it. I do all the required maintenance myself and the oil change interval for me is 5k, however I have been running E85 since about 40k miles and knew the ethanol blend would be washing off the cylinder walls oil sooner than gasoline would do. I installed the Burger JB4 at about 2k miles (waiting the 2k was to satisfy my own personal break in period for a new engine and drive train). I feel if your vehicle is going to be problematic you might see a problem crop up within the first couple thousand miles for high mileage highway driving vehicles. I ran the JB4 until the ECU was cracked, then waited until I was able to tune it myself at home without sending in my ECU to to someone else just for the tune. I upgraded the fuel pump piston for the E85 using the 034 Motorsport pump kit and added the Fuel-It ethanol sensor for accurate readings. I wanted the ability to tune on the fly, just in case I needed to change tunes for 92/93 octane fuel if E85 isn't sold in the area. I was working with the EPL Tuning 93 octane at first then moved up to E17, E26 and E40 after sending in data logs from each ethanol change. After the EPL shutdown I moved over to the 034 Motorsports ECU & Trans tuning stable of products. For the chassis I have upgraded the inserts for the following items using 034 Motorsports products: the transmission mount, rear diff mount, rear sub-frame mount. I installed a 034 front strut brace, a ECS trans tunnel brace and upgraded to a JXB Performance driveshaft center support bearing carrier. For the intake I am running the ECS Tuning Kohlefaser Luft-Technik cold air intake feeding a IE turbo inlet pipe. As for the exhaust I removed all 3 resonators and installed the proper pipes for no restrictions.

[jdm-v35]

I came into the Audi group knowing that I put about 25k miles a year on my vehicles and was looking for the best daily driver car to make my commute enjoyable (or as fun as a commute from Indianapolis to Chicago can possibly be). I chose the '19 RS5 Sportback as my vehicle because the car was checking more boxes for me than any of the other vehicles I was researching in 2019. I wanted the German built car because they are well built and have a proven drive train that can take abuse from higher than stock power. I bought mine new June of 2019 and now I am at about 122k miles on it. I do all the required maintenance myself and the oil change interval for me is 5k, however I have been running E85 since about 40k miles and knew the ethanol blend would be washing off the cylinder walls oil sooner than gasoline would do. I installed the Burger JB4 at about 2k miles (waiting the 2k was to satisfy my own personal break in period for a new engine and drive train). I feel if your vehicle is going to be problematic you might see a problem crop up within the first couple thousand miles for high mileage highway driving vehicles. I ran the JB4 until the ECU was cracked, then waited until I was able to tune it myself at home without sending in my ECU to to someone else just for the tune. I upgraded the fuel pump piston for the E85 using the 034 Motorsport pump kit and added the Fuel-It ethanol sensor for accurate readings. I wanted the ability to tune on the fly, just in case I needed to change tunes for 92/93 octane fuel if E85 isn't sold in the area. I was working with the EPL Tuning 93 octane at first then moved up to E17, E26 and E40 after sending in data logs from each ethanol change. After the EPL shutdown I moved over to the 034 Motorsports ECU & Trans tuning stable of products. For the chassis I have upgraded the inserts for the following items using 034 Motorsports products: the transmission mount, rear diff mount, rear sub-frame mount. I installed a 034 front strut brace, a ECS trans tunnel brace and upgraded to a JXB Performance driveshaft center support bearing carrier. For the intake I am running the ECS Tuning Kohlefaser Luft-Technik cold air intake feeding a IE turbo inlet pipe. As for the exhaust I removed all 3 resonators and installed the proper pipes for no restrictions.

No problems at all? If so good to know it's reliable! I absolutely love my 2019 RS5 SB as well. Such a fun yet luxurious car.

Did you do any trans fluid changes as well? and if so how much fluid swapped and at what intervals? Debating trying to get fluid done at my 60k maintenance.

[Mortys66]

No problems at all, just the normal wear items replaced.

I have the Quickjack 7000TL to get the car up to the working height needed to get to everything. I
use the kits from ECS to do most of the items. I do the plugs and coil packs at 50k & 100k. I did the Trans pan / filter and fluid kit # 4281725 at 60k. I also did the rear differential service kit # 4620204 at 60k. I changed out the brake fluid to Castrol SRF fluid and added the ECS stainless steel lines using kit # 252665 at about 10k. I changed the rear brake Rotors to Girodisc Brake Rotors A2-149 and MP-1898 pads at 60k (the front brakes are Carbon Ceramic). I replaced the fuel Injectors at 100k.

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[jdm-v35]

No problems at all, just the normal wear items replaced.

I have the Quickjack 7000TL to get the car up to the working height needed to get to everything. I
use the kits from ECS to do most of the items. I do the plugs and coil packs at 50k & 100k. I did the Trans pan / filter and fluid kit # 4281725 at 60k. I also did the rear differential service kit # 4620204 at 60k. I changed out the brake fluid to Castrol SRF fluid and added the ECS stainless steel lines using kit # 252665 at about 10k. I changed the rear brake Rotors to Girodisc Brake Rotors A2-149 and MP-1898 pads at 60k (the front brakes are Carbon Ceramic). I replaced the fuel Injectors at 100k.

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Thanks for the detailed info! glad to know they hold up well with proper maintenance. My 2019 is at 53k now but I bought audicare till 70k. I think the only thing I would add to the 60k service will be trans filter/fluid.

[boostin20v]

Audi care just covers scheduled maintenance like the 60k mile service and oil changes right? I'm looking to replace my 275k 07 A4 w/ K04 which I drove hard all day long and wondering if I can get a 19+ S5/RS5 to 200k.

[jdm-v35]

Audi care just covers scheduled maintenance like the 60k mile service and oil changes right? I'm looking to replace my 275k 07 A4 w/ K04 which I drove hard all day long and wondering if I can get a 19+ S5/RS5 to 200k.

Correct, but it won;t cover trans fluid since it is considered "lifetime" and they don't consider it routine maintenance. I would do the service myself but I have a 3rd party warranty that requires paperwork proof of proper maintenance. It pretty much just covers oil changes, plugs, diff fluids, brake fluid and air filters.

[FunkyTechnician]

Correct, but it won;t cover trans fluid since it is considered "lifetime" and they don't consider it routine maintenance. I would do the service myself but I have a 3rd party warranty that requires paperwork proof of proper maintenance. It pretty much just covers oil changes, plugs, diff fluids, brake fluid and air filters.

Which third party warranty did you go with? Was it purchased at the time you got the vehicle, from the dealership, or elsewhere? Considering one myself but I already declined Audi's Pure Protection plan.

[jdm-v35]

Which third party warranty did you go with? Was it purchased at the time you got the vehicle, from the dealership, or elsewhere? Considering one myself but I already declined Audi's Pure Protection plan.

I didn't have a choice. The dealership I bought it from used always bundles in something called "Forever Warranty" on all their new and used cars. It didn't affect what I considered a fair price on the car so I was fine with it and figured it can't hurt. I don't think I would have bought a 3rd party warranty myself honestly as I maintain and work on all my other cars myself.

[boostin20v]

My buddy is also my mechanic, currently has an '16 RS7 in with coolant issues and at least one warped head. Has a 3rd party warranty but comes into the issue apparently with the warranty wanting to deny coverage saying that the coolant leaking issues didn't cause the head to warp, the head warped causing the leaking issues so no claim. Last place he worked had similar stuff with the warranties they were selling to customers.

Seems just like the world of cars now, IMO buying something 10yrs old which might not be as maintenance finicky but dealing with high milage issues vs having to be more religious with maintenance on a newer car is just the point things are. I was able to keep my '07 for 12yrs and 200k miles of my ownership while driving it like I stole it...doesn't seem likely to achieve moving forward.

[jdm-v35]

My buddy is also my mechanic, currently has an '16 RS7 in with coolant issues and at least one warped head. Has a 3rd party warranty but comes into the issue apparently with the warranty wanting to deny coverage saying that the coolant leaking issues didn't cause the head to warp, the head warped causing the leaking issues so no claim. Last place he worked had similar stuff with the warranties they were selling to customers.

Seems just like the world of cars now, IMO buying something 10yrs old which might not be as maintenance finicky but dealing with high milage issues vs having to be more religious with maintenance on a newer car is just the point things are. I was able to keep my '07 for 12yrs and 200k miles of my ownership while driving it like I stole it...doesn't seem likely to achieve moving forward.

I think with proper and meticulous maintenance these vehicles can last a long time. It won't be as simple as maintenance on a toyota, but you also get a lot more tech and power. It's like they say, when buying a lamborghini it isn't just about affording the car but the proper maintenance as well.

[rayray]

Still rolling…😎 ‘19 S5 SB


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[tgf83]

Still rolling…😎 ‘19 S5 SB

Nice! This is encouraging, I just picked up the same exact model as you - same options, same color, (I'm even in MA also!) at 67800 mi, so this is great news for me. What kind of maintenance did you need to do after 70K?