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  1. #1
    Junior Member Two Rings
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    At full throttle Error message P004900 Turbo turbine overspeed Audi S5 B9

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    Hello,

    Yesterday on the Autobahn at full throttle the S5 B9 reported a drive failure. The car now feels like 200 hp less and the same message comes up every time I drive at full throttle.

    Error memory says: P004900 Turbo turbine overspeed

    Audi S5 Sportback 3.0 TFSI quattro 2018 - Stage 2 - 034Motorsport

    Anyone have any idea what it could be?

    Thanks :)

  2. #2
    Junior Member Two Rings
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    Could be all sorts of things, bad sensors, wastegate / blowoff valve problems, pcm issues, bypass valves, if the twin scroll doesn't function properly, trashed turbo...

    Have you scanned for other codes?

  3. #3
    Junior Member Two Rings
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    No, that's the only error code. Wastegate works, all sensors have been checked, everything seems fine.

    But if you hold the intake hose on the compressor side (of the turbo) shut, you can hear a hissing sound or as if it were sucking the air from the intercooler hose at the bottom right front (driver's side). Is this noise normal, can anyone confirm?

  4. #4
    Veteran Member Four Rings
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    Wastegates are feedback controlled by the manifold pressure. What appears to be happening is that the turbos are needing to spin excessively to generate manifold pressure. Sounds like some kind of boost leak somewhere in the system. It could also be a blown turbo.

    How many miles/km on the car with the stage 2 tune? I ask because your car is now 4 years old, and a tuned ECU will put more physical stress on parts.
    Current Fleet: Porsche 718 Spyder * Audi S5 Sportback * Audi RS5 Sportback
    On order: Audi RSQ8 Performance

  5. #5
    Veteran Member Four Rings
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    I would contact 034 and ask them.

  6. #6
    Junior Member Two Rings
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    https://youtu.be/K2EozwuPiI4

    I made a video of the wastegate, you can have a look at it. This noise at the end comes from the marked hose that just occurs and disappears when you squeeze it???

    The car has been tuned for a year in total. 034 has already been contacted.

  7. #7
    Established Member Two Rings BaggedB9S4's Avatar
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    you probably have a boost leak, if its not an obvious leak I would smoke test the system .

  8. #8
    Junior Member Two Rings
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    Question

    Tried quite a bit, replaced the pressure converter with a new one "06M906609A" because it made noise and has a direct connection to the wastegate. After replacing the pressure converter, the strange noise was gone (the one in the video at the end). Then I replaced the shutoff valve "06M145710F" because @Dmitry's Garage made a youtube video where he says they can break. I checked everything on the lift, nothing unusual. Turbo hose has pressure. Wastegate checked for pressure with a syringe with hose, works or holds the pressure. I checked the turbine on the intake side, visually it looks good.

    Also have a new error inside "P13EF00 Engine block coolant temperature sensor Temperature too high" many others and I am tracking this error as well. LINK BELOW I also changed coolant control selenoid "037906283" because I have the famous coolant temperature problem too (MAYBE THIS IS ALL CONNECTED??).

    FINALLY I swapped the 2 boost pressure sensors in the front and lo and behold it worked.. everything seems normal but the day after tomorrow again the same "ERROR MESSAGE"! This time both boost pressure sensors renewed "Bosch number: 0261232022" and it still doesn't work. I still get error messages and have low performance. Was now at an exhaust gas measurement, the CO2 & HC values ​​are logically high because of the downpipe, but for me they were extremely high, so that the mechanic said I have a lean mixture, too much AIR. 60 are the normal numbers but my car was at 162

    The funny thing is when I swapped the 2 sensors between each other, it worked for a short time, can it be mechanical or electrical, the fault?


    I also reflashed the Stage 2 software, did not help. I just don't understand it, the error just came so extremely spontaneously. I still have to do that with the smoke machine somewhere, but i can't find a workshop with the part at the moment. Still have to try it with stock software but honestly I don't think it helps and besides the problem is there anyway and needs to be fixed/located.

    I bought a used VCDS today, can someone tell me which VALUES, how and where I have to check them? What basic settings can I make, for example: Wastegate, etc.?



    THANKS! :)

    https://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...too-high/page2
    Last edited by venomS5B9; 11-12-2022 at 05:08 AM.

  9. #9
    Junior Member Two Rings
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    copied from other post

    Okay, I finally found the solution to all my problems and maybe yours.

    At first I only had a yellow message (tachometer) "Coolant temperature too high" (no error code), then I replaced the 037906283 solenoid valve (the one on top of the engine) and everything worked for a short time. But a few weeks later the next error message came in red "P13EF00 Engine block coolant temperature sensor Temperature too high".
    AND THE COOLEST thing is I was losing power plus my car would go into limp mode most of the time when I was accelerating hard. Error code was "P004900 Turbo turbine overspeed". I knew it had something to do with the wastegate, but the turbo was perfectly fine.

    Ultimately the problem was the vacuum system, coolant shut off valve and the 2x 037906283 solenoid valves. There was oil in the lines coming from the vacuum pump. I blew out the lines until everything was clean again (see picture and not too strong, best with the mouth.). I removed the vacuum pump and some oil actually came out of the vacuum area, but the function seemed fine to me (maybe a design flaw), cleaned it up a bit and reinstalled it.

    I also exchanged the "pressure converter 06M906609A" to be on the safe side because it made strange noises, but I don't know if it's mandatory to exchange it.
    Anyway, my car is now full power and faster than before + no coolant error messages.

    The change is a bit complicated, you have to remove the large black intake pipes and the complete air filter box (it is extremely difficult without a lifting platform because you also have to work from below). The valves on top of the engine are easy to change, but the solenoid valve on the front of the engine is a hassle.

    I took pictures that describe the parts and the expansion.

    1: coolant shut off valve 06M121678H ~ 80€
    2 & 3: 037906283 solenoid valve (Pierburg 7.22880.01.0) ~65€
    4: pressure converter with a 06M906609A ~95€
    Number 5 on the picture is the vacuum vacuum pump and needs to be cleaned a bit.
    (6: ~20€ Coolant water 5L G12 EVO (G12E040A3) or G13 depending on region)

    https://share-your-photo.com/2daa487262
    https://share-your-photo.com/ce160e3098
    https://share-your-photo.com/009b61a178
    https://share-your-photo.com/5abda94ac5

    To separate the coolant shut off valve from the water line you have to pull it forward a bit and to the right then it comes out. Attention some cooling water will flow out and afterwards don't forget to bleed the cooling system to get the air out (for example with OBD Scanner VCDS).

    Everything has been working perfectly for a week now and I hope it stays that way.
    Last edited by venomS5B9; 12-13-2022 at 03:51 PM.

  10. #10
    Junior Member Two Rings
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    So guys it's time again. My S5 has lost power again and consumes more fuel. Very strange, what I exchanged as described here in the forum fixed the problem for 7 months and now it's back. This time I don't get any error messages either, it was just once the famous message "Coolant temperature too high" a few days ago, nothing else.I just replaced the water pump, thermostat and vacuum pump (was full with oil), 2x solenoid valves today and it didn't help. The car still has poor power in the lower revs. The turbo does not build up boost pressure and the car sounds lean. I endoscoped my intake ducts on carbon, but there was nothing there (was very clean). The turbo runs strangely when you accelerate from lower speeds, like "siiiiiiiiisisisisisiiiiiiiiiiisiiisiisiiiiiii iiii iiiiiiiiiiiiiiiii...".

    It's obviously something to do with the vacuum/wastegate, but what's causing the performance loss...

    I do not know how to continue

    the turbo ist 100% fine

  11. #11
    Established Member Two Rings
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    Was 034 helpful the last time this happened? You mentioned above that you had reached out to them and wonder how they responded...
    CURRENT: Quantum Grey 2019 S5 Sportback Prestige, Black Optics, S Sport Package
    Neuspeed RSe102's, 034 Trans Mount Insert & tranny mount upgrade, ABT HAS, 034 intake and inlet, 034 Stage 1 ECU/ Stage 2 TCU tune, 034 front strut brace, 034 subframe and diff mounts, 034 RSB, 034 RSB & end links, iSweep IS2000 pads, Neuspeed braided SS brake lines, Wagner Comp intercooler, more to come...
    GONE BUT NOT FORGOTTEN: 2017 VW GTI SE, highly modded and tracked.

  12. #12
    Established Member Two Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by Visceral1 View Post
    Was 034 helpful the last time this happened? You mentioned above that you had reached out to them and wonder how they responded...
    I'd like to know this too, as I'm considering purchasing a tune from them. From what I can tell, they certainly appear to be a stand-up well respected company, but I'd also like to know what level of support you've received from them.

    Also, have you flashed back to stock to see if the problem goes away?

  13. #13
    Stage 3 Forum Advertiser Four Rings 034Motorsport's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by venomS5B9 View Post
    So guys it's time again. My S5 has lost power again and consumes more fuel. Very strange, what I exchanged as described here in the forum fixed the problem for 7 months and now it's back. This time I don't get any error messages either, it was just once the famous message "Coolant temperature too high" a few days ago, nothing else.I just replaced the water pump, thermostat and vacuum pump (was full with oil), 2x solenoid valves today and it didn't help. The car still has poor power in the lower revs. The turbo does not build up boost pressure and the car sounds lean. I endoscoped my intake ducts on carbon, but there was nothing there (was very clean). The turbo runs strangely when you accelerate from lower speeds, like "siiiiiiiiisisisisisiiiiiiiiiiisiiisiisiiiiiii iiii iiiiiiiiiiiiiiiii...".

    It's obviously something to do with the vacuum/wastegate, but what's causing the performance loss...

    I do not know how to continue

    the turbo ist 100% fine
    If you haven't already, please reach out to our tuning team so we can help diagnose with you and hopefully root out some variables. We have seen an increase in water pump related failures that damage a boost solenoid that is part of pressure regulation to the wastegate/vacuum line systems, so perhaps yours requires a bit of a closer look.


    Email our team with an updated list of what hardware maintenance you have performed thus far and we can help walk through what the next diag steps would be.

    -Nick@034
    034Motorsport - Engineering and Manufacturing Performance Hardware & Software Upgrades for Audi Enthusiasts Since 2005.

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  14. #14
    Junior Member Two Rings
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    They didn't really help me at the time.
    Actually, they looked at the log data at the time and then didn't reply back for a long time until I found a solution on my own back then.

    Now I have contacted @034Motorsport again and I hope that they can help me concretely and quickly.

    @BenzToAudi

  15. #15
    Junior Member Two Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by Visceral1 View Post
    Was 034 helpful the last time this happened? You mentioned above that you had reached out to them and wonder how they responded...
    above

  16. #16
    Junior Member Two Rings
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    Problem solved, today we replaced the 8 month old blow off valve and what can I say, the car has full power again! How can such a part break after 8 months, even though I bought it new at the time! So I can say that my method still works, only if you also change the water pump.

  17. #17
    Veteran Member Three Rings JonnyBravo!'s Avatar
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    I've had almost the same exact issue as you - 1) coolant temp too high, followed by 2) a boost leak (P0299) after replacing both solenoid valves and the coolant shut-off valve.

    Tonight, I heard a faint fluttering sound that sounded similar to my bad diverter valve - that I replaced 11 months ago. Your post gives me hope that maybe this boost leak is a simple fix. I'm going to order a new DV (06M-145-710-F), fingers crossed.

  18. #18
    Established Member Two Rings athree20v's Avatar
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    So, just to share my experience/findings (with 034's help of course) here... 2018 S5 034 stage 3 (TTE 710) with the P0049 Turbine Overspeed fault.

    Looks to be a defective vacuum pump, not providing enough vacuum to pull the wastegate door completely shut. Lots of oil inside the pump, sloshing around, pooling and blocking the plastic fitting....most likely from when the PCV check valve let go, and let boost into the engine. I wont actually know what exactly happened until i remove and replace the pump, but that seems to be the smoking gun here.

    I did originally think that my TTE turbo had too much shaft play, and was slowing down due to compressor wheel rubbing on the housing. I don't think that helped the situation any, so that is still going back to TTE for a rebuild.
    Last edited by athree20v; 11-07-2023 at 07:28 AM.

  19. #19
    Active Member One Ring
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    Hello I need your help please . I have a 2018 S5 B9 SB with stage 2 034 motorsport catless downpipe upgraded intercooler and a Super Duper insuction bundle and P34 intake . I recorded some dragy times and my best 100-200km/h was 9.4 seconds . But I think the car definitely car do better . Also before 2/3 week I get the “turn off engine coolant temperature is too high “ I got this twice but no error codes or something . Yesterday i went to a car service and I wanted them to look and the vacuum lines . And they saw that from the pressure convector to the westgate comes really small amount of vacuum and the it can pull all the way . Then we bypassed the convector and I drove for 5 min . Definitely don’t know if the car is faster but when I remove my foot from the car the “sneeze “ is so much louder than before . And after everything I said I wanted to ask . Is it worth it to change the pressure convector , 2x solenoids , and the diverter valve and coolant shut off valve even if I don’t get codes because I don’t have any .

  20. #20
    Veteran Member Three Rings JonnyBravo!'s Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by athree20v View Post
    So, just to share my experience/findings (with 034's help of course) here... 2018 S5 034 stage 3 (TTE 710) with the P0049 Turbine Overspeed fault.

    Looks to be a defective vacuum pump, not providing enough vacuum to pull the wastegate door completely shut. Lots of oil inside the pump, sloshing around, pooling and blocking the plastic fitting....most likely from when the PCV check valve let go, and let boost into the engine. I wont actually know what exactly happened until i remove and replace the pump, but that seems to be the smoking gun here.

    I did originally think that my TTE turbo had too much shaft play, and was slowing down due to compressor wheel rubbing on the housing. I don't think that helped the situation any, so that is still going back to TTE for a rebuild.
    Interesting. I just replaced my water pump, thermostat, and vacuum pump this past weekend and I wasn't sure if the vacuum pump was suppose to have this much oil. I'm still having boost leak problems.


  21. #21
    Established Member Two Rings athree20v's Avatar
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    So, two things here...

    I bought a used (14k mile) pump off of eBay for $50... and after that install, the brake pedal wasn't as hard, and the turbo response picked up quite a bit. HOWEVER, I still kept getting the overspeed code, triggered at higher rpms, and swapping back to my stock turbo and flashing down to stg 2, made the car come ALIVE.

    There will be some oil inside of the pump, for lubrication... But you might have an oil booger inside of the plastic fitting on the outside of the pump...Take that off, disconnect the vac hoses attached to it and blow it out (gently, as it is a type of one way valve.)

    As for my 710, I am sending it back for a rebuild (as soon as i have an extra 3-400$ for shipping lol)

  22. #22
    Veteran Member Three Rings JonnyBravo!'s Avatar
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    Ok, I'm going to dive in again this weekend and inspect the lines. I pulled out some dried up bits of coolant. I need to figure out the source of this lack of vacuum.


  23. #23
    Established Member Two Rings athree20v's Avatar
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    FWIW, when i took the original vacuum pump off, I opened it up out of curiosity.. The rotating vane inside had worn deep grooves and scratches onto the cover plate. It definitely didn't have the tight tolerances anymore, and I'm guessing this is why it didn't generate enough vacuum to pull the WG fully closed.

    Good luck!

  24. #24
    Veteran Member Three Rings JonnyBravo!'s Avatar
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    I think I have a breakthrough. This is the valve/fitting from the vacuum pump. The port to the hoses is completely blocked with dried coolant. Fingers crossed.


  25. #25
    Established Member Two Rings athree20v's Avatar
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    LOL... Yeah, that'll do it. Looks like you need to replace the coolant control solenoid (the real name is escaping me at the moment) They have been known to leak and clog the vacuum lines/ports.

    This thread may help: https://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...ure-reference)

  26. #26
    Veteran Member Three Rings JonnyBravo!'s Avatar
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    Lol yeah, it worked. I finally have full boost again.

    I replaced those solenoid valves like five times throughout this whole ordeal. So I’m certain my waterpump failing started this cascade of issues. I cleaned out the vacuum pump nozzle with a needle, blasted air through the hoses, and all is well in the world again. I’m so relieved.

  27. #27
    Established Member Two Rings athree20v's Avatar
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    WOOOOOoooooo!

  28. #28
    Established Member Two Rings A7Prestige's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JonnyBravo! View Post
    I think I have a breakthrough. This is the valve/fitting from the vacuum pump. The port to the hoses is completely blocked with dried coolant. Fingers crossed.

    Any chance you could take a picture of exactly where that part is on the engine?

  29. #29
    Veteran Member Three Rings JonnyBravo!'s Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by A7Prestige View Post
    Any chance you could take a picture of exactly where that part is on the engine?
    It's attached to the vacuum pump by a screw:



    And the vacuum pump is located under here:


  30. #30
    Established Member Two Rings A7Prestige's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JonnyBravo! View Post
    It's attached to the vacuum pump by a screw:



    And the vacuum pump is located under here:

    Perfect! Thanks for the thorough response.

  31. #31
    Veteran Member Three Rings JonnyBravo!'s Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by A7Prestige View Post
    Perfect! Thanks for the thorough response.
    Sure thing. You should be able to reach in there and access the valve without removing anything. There's a clip attached to it that you will have to undo that can be a bit challenging, but it's doable.

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