P0016, misfires, shaking, new timing chains

[UpTheBoost]

New to the Audi game but I have had a few volkswagens . I have rebuilt a few vw tsi and fsi 2.0t motors. I recently bought a 2010 Audi A4 that had p0016, misfire codes, rpm lower then expected, violently shaking ect. It almost sounded like the camshaft bridge screen was missing. Did a compression test and every cylinder was 180+. Engine is the factory engine with 104000 on the dash.

I took the camshaft bridge off and found the screen to be missing. I thought maybe it could of went in the oil galley hole so I removed the cradle and cams. I blew compressed air the the holes and couldnt find it. I replaced the timing chains and guides as well since the camshafts were out.

After all of that I’m still getting the same codes and problems. The timing is 100 percent correct(possible the intake phaser is bad?). Lined up the links with the chain and spun it twice. I even made marks with a marker so I don’t have to keep spinning it till the timing chain marks line back up. The p0016 code comes right back, engine shaking violently, check engine light flashing, misfire codes ect.

Checking the scanner data with my snap on scanner the intake cam is at 28 degrees and the specified value is the same at 28. The magnet works when activating it, the oil control valve pushes in and out like itssuppose to. I can’t watch any data on the exhaust cam because there is no sensor. I did find that this engine has a oil control solenoid near the oil pan. I couldnt find any information about this solenoid or how it works. I removed it and no oil came out. I’m not sure if oil is suppose to come out. The tsi vw motors donÂ’t have this solenoid.

That only thing that comes to mind is that the intake camshaft phaser is bad or it’s a oil issue. The p0016 is the main reason for the engine problems and the rest of the codes. Monday I will measure the difference in the cams and report back. I’m just wondering if anyone can help out. I dont have a vcds but I do have a snap on scanner with expert mode. I can go to basic settings and what not. Is there a group where I can see if the cam timing and crank timing are off?

[deadheaded]

Is there a group where I can see if the cam timing and crank timing are off?

Is something like this what you are looking for?
https://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...ser-adaptation

[UpTheBoost]

All fixed. When looking at the camshaft phase position it was showing to be 60 degrees advanced. The oil control valve that goes into the intake cam button popped out. What was happening was the cam was advancing at idle because of the oil control valve.

[Theiceman]

the centre popped out right ? .....

so for future readers benefit ....
https://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...-misfire-codes

and to clean up a few items in OPs original post ... " sounds like the bridge screen is missing " that means nothing as it doesnt make a sound, Audis official bulletin in fact tells you to pull it out and leave it out , it wont hurt anything.

"timing is 100% " no it isnt .. becasue that is what a P0016 is actually telling you . what OP means is the " static" timing is perfect. and to be honest 80% of the ime guys say its perfect it actually isnt anyway as they usually just think it is ...

In this particular instance the " dynamic" timing was off... i do find it odd that someone who states he has rebuilt these engines and says the valve moves in and out as it does, later reports that it is popped out..

anyway glad it is all fixed and back on the road... that shuttle valve is the single biggest failure point of the dynamic timing (VVT) system.

[UpTheBoost]

The centre popped out of the oil control valve. It was still intact but pushed further out then normal. When the vvt magnet got tightens down on the upper timing cover it was pushing the oil control valve in.

I bought the car from someone that dropped it off at a shop that couldn’t fix it. There was oil all over the place( pcv failed). I never got the full story of the car. It had multiple misfires and the timing code. The car was bogging and and sounded like a muscle car with a high lift cam. The timing was a tooth off hence why I did the timing. The “static timing” was right. The links on the chain lined up to the marks on the crank and camshafts. This is where I started to 2nd guess myself. I thought maybe a gold link on the chain was marked in the wrong spot or possibly the crank sprocket arrow was marked wrong.

What was messing me up was the actual and specified value of the camshaft. The specified value was at 28 and the actually value of the cam was at 28 degrees. On the tsi engines when it was a tooth off this would be different. I still don’t know why it wasn’t different but the camshaft phase was reading so off. Again on the tsi engines it doesn’t have this data only the specified value and actual value. If the camshaft phaser was advancing the cam shouldn’t the actual value of the camshaft read different? This also seems like a bad way to read timing chain stretch. The different in numbers could be a bad phaser, a oil control valve sticking a little bit?

I work on a lot of different German cars. I can’t remember all of them. I still don’t know or understand what the oil control solenoid does that is located near the oil pan? I couldn’t find anything about this on all data, shop key, forums. Seems like no one knows.

Thanks officer audizine iceman for clearing it all up lol