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  1. #1
    Veteran Member Three Rings B. Rock's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 27 2008
    AZ Member #
    31331
    My Garage
    09 3.0T A6 Avant
    Location
    Denver, CO

    PSA for those doing lower control arms

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    Did mine over the weekend, not a bad job, but there is a detail I didn't see in any of the write ups or youtube videos: Audi apparently uses a sleeve insert for the spindle, that may or may not come out with the ball joint. A tie rod puller works perfectly to pull these back off of the old control arms without damaging them. Used a C-clamp and the old nut from the ball joint to press it back into place.

    If the sleeve comes off and you forget to put it back on, the taper on the ball joint will have nothing to fit into and it won't go together again. At least not properly.

    Just wanted to make a quick post for those that might run into the same issue. Happened on both rear lower arms I took off. The front lower arms didn't have the issue for whatever reason.

    Also, FWIW, I did not need a ball joint separator. A few whacks with the big hammer and they came right apart.

    Good luck.
    09 A6 Avant 3.0t
    06 E350 4x4 Cummins swapped
    01 WJ rock toy

  2. #2
    Veteran Member Four Rings arjun90's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 27 2014
    AZ Member #
    306064
    My Garage
    2013 Audi Q5 3.0T
    Location
    NY

    I've had this happen to me on my 2004 Audi A6 Avant. I had to use a jaw puller to get sleeve off the control arm. A few whacks on the sleeve got back into place within the spindle.
    Fortunately, it was relatively smooth for me on the 2010 A6. No need for a ball joint separator, it will mar the edge of the sleeve if you use the ball joint separator.
    Quote Originally Posted by B. Rock View Post
    Did mine over the weekend, not a bad job, but there is a detail I didn't see in any of the write ups or youtube videos: Audi apparently uses a sleeve insert for the spindle, that may or may not come out with the ball joint. A tie rod puller works perfectly to pull these back off of the old control arms without damaging them. Used a C-clamp and the old nut from the ball joint to press it back into place.

    If the sleeve comes off and you forget to put it back on, the taper on the ball joint will have nothing to fit into and it won't go together again. At least not properly.

    Just wanted to make a quick post for those that might run into the same issue. Happened on both rear lower arms I took off. The front lower arms didn't have the issue for whatever reason.

    Also, FWIW, I did not need a ball joint separator. A few whacks with the big hammer and they came right apart.

    Good luck.
    Current:
    | Audi Q5 (B8) 2013 (3.0T, Quattro) |
    70,xxx Miles
    | Audi A6 (C6) Avant, 2010 (3.0T, Quattro) |
    182,xxx Miles
    Gone But Not Forgotten:
    | Audi A6 (C5) Avant, 2004 (3.0L, Quattro) |
    221,386 Miles [April 2014 - March 2022]
    New genuine Audi/VW parts for cheap within the US - audiusaoemparts.com
    New genuine Audi/VW parts for cheap if you can afford the wait - oemVWshop

  3. #3
    Veteran Member Three Rings
    Join Date
    Jun 19 2017
    AZ Member #
    401356
    Location
    ABQ NM

    So, while we are on the subject of lower control arms, I have seen a lot of people just doing the lowers, and then maybe the uppers later on.

    It kind of seems like it would make more sense to do them all while you are there, but I also understand the if it's not broken no need to fix it concept very well.

    My question is, can/should you do all the lowers at the same time, or does it matter? My alignment guys are saying I really only need to do the left front lower, and all the others are in really good shape.

    Next question, if I only do the one arm, does it need to be the same brand as the others? Guessing it would be best to keep them matched.

    Thanks for your thoughts.
    Mine - 07 S6 Stock
    Wife's 07 A8L 4.2

  4. #4
    Veteran Member Three Rings B. Rock's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 27 2008
    AZ Member #
    31331
    My Garage
    09 3.0T A6 Avant
    Location
    Denver, CO

    I was in a spot where only one really needed to be replaced, but I just did all 4 while I was in there since they had 175k miles on them. Turns out it eliminated almost every single thump and clunk in the front end, despite rubber and ball joints on the rest not looking too bad.

    I had done the uppers ~45k miles previously. They're very isolated from each other. You don't need to do anything with the uppers whatsoever to change the lowers, and vice versa.
    09 A6 Avant 3.0t
    06 E350 4x4 Cummins swapped
    01 WJ rock toy

  5. #5
    Veteran Member Three Rings
    Join Date
    Jun 19 2017
    AZ Member #
    401356
    Location
    ABQ NM

    Quote Originally Posted by B. Rock View Post
    I was in a spot where only one really needed to be replaced, but I just did all 4 while I was in there since they had 175k miles on them. Turns out it eliminated almost every single thump and clunk in the front end, despite rubber and ball joints on the rest not looking too bad.

    I had done the uppers ~45k miles previously. They're very isolated from each other. You don't need to do anything with the uppers whatsoever to change the lowers, and vice versa.
    Good to know, thanks. My S6 only has 89K miles on it, but it is an 07, so years VS miles. I will take a really good hard look at them all and then decied. Did you just go with OEM, or one of the aftermarket OE brands?
    Mine - 07 S6 Stock
    Wife's 07 A8L 4.2

  6. #6
    Veteran Member Three Rings B. Rock's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 27 2008
    AZ Member #
    31331
    My Garage
    09 3.0T A6 Avant
    Location
    Denver, CO

    Meyle HD for the lowers. Uppers I want to say Lemforder.
    09 A6 Avant 3.0t
    06 E350 4x4 Cummins swapped
    01 WJ rock toy

  7. #7
    Veteran Member Four Rings arjun90's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 27 2014
    AZ Member #
    306064
    My Garage
    2013 Audi Q5 3.0T
    Location
    NY

    What's wrong with doing Meyle HD's for the uppers?

    Quote Originally Posted by B. Rock View Post
    Meyle HD for the lowers. Uppers I want to say Lemforder.
    Current:
    | Audi Q5 (B8) 2013 (3.0T, Quattro) |
    70,xxx Miles
    | Audi A6 (C6) Avant, 2010 (3.0T, Quattro) |
    182,xxx Miles
    Gone But Not Forgotten:
    | Audi A6 (C5) Avant, 2004 (3.0L, Quattro) |
    221,386 Miles [April 2014 - March 2022]
    New genuine Audi/VW parts for cheap within the US - audiusaoemparts.com
    New genuine Audi/VW parts for cheap if you can afford the wait - oemVWshop

  8. #8
    Veteran Member Three Rings B. Rock's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 27 2008
    AZ Member #
    31331
    My Garage
    09 3.0T A6 Avant
    Location
    Denver, CO

    Nothing. The question was what did I use - that's just what I found deals on at those points in time.
    09 A6 Avant 3.0t
    06 E350 4x4 Cummins swapped
    01 WJ rock toy

  9. #9
    Veteran Member Four Rings arjun90's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 27 2014
    AZ Member #
    306064
    My Garage
    2013 Audi Q5 3.0T
    Location
    NY

    I'm planning to do Lemforders for the uppers, I already did the Meyle HD's for the lowers

    Quote Originally Posted by B. Rock View Post
    Nothing. The question was what did I use - that's just what I found deals on at those points in time.
    Current:
    | Audi Q5 (B8) 2013 (3.0T, Quattro) |
    70,xxx Miles
    | Audi A6 (C6) Avant, 2010 (3.0T, Quattro) |
    182,xxx Miles
    Gone But Not Forgotten:
    | Audi A6 (C5) Avant, 2004 (3.0L, Quattro) |
    221,386 Miles [April 2014 - March 2022]
    New genuine Audi/VW parts for cheap within the US - audiusaoemparts.com
    New genuine Audi/VW parts for cheap if you can afford the wait - oemVWshop

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