VVT OIL Control Valve - A4 2.0T TFSI (B8 - CAEB)

[LarryCV7]

2010 Audi A4, Quattro
2.0T TFSI (B8 - CAEB)

So, having a hard time actually finding a VVT Oil Control Valve (06H109257C) that's actually in stock and not an actual Genuine Audi part at 3x the price.
You can order the other brands, however the ship date is 2-3 months from now...not going to work.
So far I've found three from ECS Tuning, one from Europa-parts, the other from NAPA.

Anyone have experience with either of these brands: Hamburg-Technic, OE Supply, or Echlin?
Just would rather not have to order inferior parts if it can be avoided.


Thanks!

[Theiceman]

These are not critical engine parts where failure would destroy your engine. I think a third party quality supplier will be fine

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[mc_hotmail]

That's the intake VVT valve behind the cam magnet, and you only need one. It's made of solid metal and with an improved design that does not need those brittle teflon rings found in the B7 cam adjuster. I am curious to know what kind of wear or damage that made you want a new one. Any picture?

[Theiceman]

valve:
It's actually made of 3 pieces and the centre section pops out of them .. fairly common , then your car starts to over advance and you get all kinds of timing codes and lumpy idle.
Solenoid:
The pin in the solenoid can get gummed up although not as common, the pin needs to move in and out of the magnet with ease.

[drbuzz]

I figure posting here rather than making a new thread would make sense since its on the same topic.

I just bought a 2009 with p0011. Timing and tensioner look good, the valve will not move when i press my finger on it, from my understanding it should because its spring loaded and if the actuator ping can do it I would think my fingers are capable? Is this not the case? Anyway i can NOT get this damn valve off. I did it on my last car no problem with and amazon timing tool kit.
Seems like whoever replaced the bridge(was the last thing done before sold to me) torqued it wayyyyy too hard. I put a crazy amount of force on it and it will not move. Is it possible its seized to the intake cam?
Any insight is appreciated thank you.

[Theiceman]

Turn it the other way ..

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[drbuzz]

I know better hahah. The thing was on there way too tight, I couldn't manage to crack it while holding the 18 on the intake cam at the same time. Got somebody to help today and it popped out fine. The spring action is working fine now but im still getting the code.
The car runs fine but gives an epc and says not to rev past 4k. Could anyone tell me what kind of resistance I should get from the vvt actuator? Has the old style on it and it looks original (car has 115k).. wondering if it could have failed.
I have yet to take the bridge off but it was replaced by the last owner in hopes to fix this code so I was leaning towards that not being the issue. If not the actuator I guess the next best move is take the lower timing cover off and make sure everything looks good?

[Theiceman]

It should only be like 24lbs and should have come off easy.
Did you only have the one code ? No p0016 ? If the centre section is flush and the pin on your solenoid is fine, time to look elsewhere.

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[Smac770]

Probably best to produce a log of actual information and try to deduce what manner of failure would produce the observed errant numerical behavior, assuming any is observed.

If you think the N205 is not working, run the N205 output test and see if you hear the clicking of it extending and retracting. https://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...1#post14539941

Invoke the VVT basic setting and log the numbers to see how specified vs actual track and the necessary duty cycle (activation). https://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...1#post14542083

P0011
Intake (A) Camshaft Position Timing - Over-Advanced (Bank 1)
Target error (Stuck position) >6.8...8 °CRK


– Disconnect Camshaft Adjustment Valve 1 -N205- electrical harness connector -1-.
– Using a multimeter, check the Camshaft Adjustment Valve 1 - N205- for resistance.
Specified value: 5.0 to 8.0 Ω (at approx. 20° C)

[drbuzz]

Im tearing it down now I just got the bridge off to find the filter missing.. not blown out. Is it possible the lack of filter is causing just a little less oil pressure, enough to mess with the vvt system?

Moving on to lower cover now will update if I see anything off

[drbuzz]

Ignore that lol I saw that most people dont put them in anyway. Emptied the oil, found it was a quart low. Put fresh oil in, code is gone but the epc light popped on after 10 minutes of driving. Going to bring it to my local audi guy for diagnosing tomorrow.

[Theiceman]

It would be my assumption that full retard would be without the n205 activated . It advances when n205 fires . If n205 failes to function ( fails to move pin forward ) you would not be overadvanced, but Instead " fail to move from set point" i dont know why I think that.
However if the failure mode is pin is stuck out, or the valve is popped out or gummed up. It can't retard to set point and you will get related codes.

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