2016 Audi S5 owner'manual doesn't say what what braking fluid to use

[Arese]

Hi everyone,

I'm going to do a brake fluid flush for the first time. Reading the manual now it only says to take the car to an authorized Audi dealer and it doesn't even provide minimum specs for braking fluid.
Also what's the brake fluid system capacity? How many litres of brake fluid should I get replace all the old fluid?

Does anyone know what Audi uses? (stock brakes)

Also I'm going to pressure flush the system (1 person method) and I was told that the pressure used to flush brake fluids may vary depending on each vehicle.
Usually, it's recommended to use a pressure of between 1 and 1.5 bar. Is that pressure safe for the S5?

Thank you in advance

[RockJGC]

It's DOT4 fluid. I usually buy the 1 quart (32 oz) bottle and that's more than enough to flush out all the brake lines with some left over. Using a Motive pressure bleeder, I use about 15 psi, which is about 1 bar.

[Arese]

It's DOT4 fluid. I usually buy the 1 quart (32 oz) bottle and that's more than enough to flush out all the brake lines with some left over. Using a Motive pressure bleeder, I use about 15 psi, which is about 1 bar.

This is everything I needed, thank you, much appreciated.

Just ordered some Castrol React Performance Brake Fluid DOT 4 and noted for required pressure at 1 bar, this is perfect.

Cheers

[32spoke]

DOT 4LV is spec'd for 2016 Audi S5... DOT 4 LV is offered by pentosin, available through Napa Auto Parts stores. the LV = low viscosity. lower viscosity fluids generally fail under higher temps, but until that moment occurs, the ABS system works better, and lower viscosity fluids are more thermally conductive-meaning the fluid can exchange heat away from a brake caliper, or an ABS servo assembly.

Regular DOT 4 is not what AUDI recommends but it it miscible with DOT 4 LV, since they are both glycol based brake fluids. if ever low... dot 3, dot 4, or dot 4 LV will work..

[Smac770]

Workshop manual only references requirement of DOT 4, and no silicone content.

♦ Only use new brake fluid conforming to US standard FMVSS 116 DOT 4.
♦ Genuine VW/Audi brake fluid conforms to this specification.
♦ Do not use liquids containing silicone.

Audi fluid is B 000 750 Mx, where x is a number that varies with the container size. M3 = 1 liter for this fluid. Here's a pic of M2 (.5 liter): https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/aud...luid-b000750m2


It also mentions requiring 2 bar on the bleeder.

♦ A pressure of 2 bar is required to bleed the hydraulic unit -N55-. For this reason it is important to always check the pressure setting on the bleeder unit.


Bleeding sequence
1 - Front left-side brake caliper
2 - Front right-side brake caliper
3 - Rear left-side brake caliper
4 - Rear right-side brake caliper

[RockJGC]

Workshop manual only references requirement of DOT 4, and no silicone content.

♦ Only use new brake fluid conforming to US standard FMVSS 116 DOT 4.
♦ Genuine VW/Audi brake fluid conforms to this specification.
♦ Do not use liquids containing silicone.

Audi fluid is B 000 750 Mx, where x is a number that varies with the container size. M3 = 1 liter for this fluid. Here's a pic of M2 (.5 liter): https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/aud...luid-b000750m2


It also mentions requiring 2 bar on the bleeder.

♦ A pressure of 2 bar is required to bleed the hydraulic unit -N55-. For this reason it is important to always check the pressure setting on the bleeder unit.


Bleeding sequence
1 - Front left-side brake caliper
2 - Front right-side brake caliper
3 - Rear left-side brake caliper
4 - Rear right-side brake caliper

That's interesting. I used 15 psi and it bled just fine.

[Smac770]

Yeah, I don't know the what or why of it. Just what's documented.

[z_wrecker]

Same. No issues and flow was consistent.

[old guy]

I had no problem bleeding my A5 brakes at 1bar. However, I had to pump the Motive Bleeder up to 2 bar in order to bleed the clutch slave cylinder. I had the same issue with my A4 B6.

[Smac770]

Oh, are those two separate bleeding actions? I figured it was all one sequence of events. The workshop manual does say the 2 bar is in relation to bleeding the N55, not necessarily the brakes lines, I guess.

[RockJGC]

Oh, are those two separate bleeding actions? I figured it was all one sequence of events. The workshop manual does say the 2 bar is in relation to bleeding the N55, not necessarily the brakes lines, I guess.

The N55 is the ABS pump, isn't it?

[old guy]

Oh, are those two separate bleeding actions? I figured it was all one sequence of events.

Yep. All in the same sequence. After bleeding the brakes I bled the clutch slave. But for whatever reason I had to increase the Motive pressure to just under 30 psi in order to get any flow from the slave cylinder.

[Smac770]

I see the clutch slave cylinder is some manual trans specific object. The N55 is the hydraulic ABS pump unit.

Not sure why it would spec 2 bar to bleed the N55 if people are seeing 1 bar as sufficient to push the fluid through. It seems to reference bleeding some of the clutch slave before the start of the lines. Maybe the 2 bar spec is because of the integrated instructions involving the clutch slave.


All Vehicles
– Remove brake fluid reservoir cap -1-.
– Use the hose from the Brake Charger/Bleeder Unit -VAS 5234- to extract as much brake fluid as possible.
– Install adapter -1- to brake fluid reservoir.
– Connect filler hose -2- on Brake Charger/Bleeder Unit -VAS 5234- to adapter.

Manual Transmission
– Pull cover cap off clutch slave cylinder bleed screw.
– Place extractor bleeder hose -1- on clutch slave cylinder bleeder screw, open bleeder screw, and let about 100 ml drain out. Close bleeder screw and install cover cap.
– Operate clutch pedal several times.

All Vehicles
– Remove caps from the bleeder screws.
– Connect extractor bleeder hose -1- to front left bleeder screw, open bleeder screw and allow about 200 ml to flow out. Close bleeder screw.
– Repeat work sequence on other side of vehicle at front.
– Connect extractor bleeder hose -1- to rear left bleeder screw, open bleeder screw and allow about 200 ml to flow out. Close bleeder screw.
– Repeat procedure on opposite rear.
– Install cover caps on brake caliper bleeder screws.
– Move filler lever on Brake Charger/Bleeder Unit -VAS 5234- to position -B- (see operating instructions).
– Remove the filler hose from the adapter.
– Remove the adapter from the brake fluid reservoir.
– Install the brake fluid reservoir cap.
– Check brake fluid level and fill if necessary.
– Check pedal pressure and brake pedal free play. Free play: max 1/3 of pedal travel

2.10.3 Sequence and Brake Fluid Capacity Table
Left front 200 ml
Right front 200 ml
Left rear 200 ml
Right rear 200 ml
Total amount(1) 1000 ml
(1) Including brake fluid extracted from brake fluid reservoir and quantity from clutch slave cylinder.

– Install cover caps on brake caliper bleeder screws.
– Move filler lever on -VAS 5234- or -V.A.G 1869- to position-B- (see operating instructions).
– Remove the filler hose from the adapter.
– Remove the adapter from the brake fluid reservoir.
– Check brake fluid level and fill if necessary.
– Install the brake fluid reservoir cap.
– Check pedal pressure and brake pedal free play. Free play: max 1/3 of pedal travel


The clutch slave stuff is foreign to me; I only have autos.

[32spoke]

sorry, I went to the pentosin.net website.. It shows Dot 4 LV.. this is incorrect. The spec required is Audi B 000 750 = DOT 4, SMAC770 is spot on, my apologies

[Arese]

DOT 4LV is spec'd for 2016 Audi S5... DOT 4 LV is offered by pentosin, available through Napa Auto Parts stores. the LV = low viscosity. lower viscosity fluids generally fail under higher temps, but until that moment occurs, the ABS system works better, and lower viscosity fluids are more thermally conductive-meaning the fluid can exchange heat away from a brake caliper, or an ABS servo assembly.

Regular DOT 4 is not what AUDI recommends but it it miscible with DOT 4 LV, since they are both glycol based brake fluids. if ever low... dot 3, dot 4, or dot 4 LV will work..

Workshop manual only references requirement of DOT 4, and no silicone content.

♦ Only use new brake fluid conforming to US standard FMVSS 116 DOT 4.
♦ Genuine VW/Audi brake fluid conforms to this specification.
♦ Do not use liquids containing silicone.

Audi fluid is B 000 750 Mx, where x is a number that varies with the container size. M3 = 1 liter for this fluid. Here's a pic of M2 (.5 liter): https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/aud...luid-b000750m2

Hey guys, @32spoke is saying AUDI doesn't recommend DOT 4 but @Smac770 says they recommend DOT 4 so which one is it, DOT 4 or DOT4 LV?

I haven't done it yet so I'll wait for clarification. I might call Audi directly actually and see what they say

EDIT:

sorry, I went to the pentosin.net website.. It shows Dot 4 LV.. this is incorrect. The spec required is Audi B 000 750 = DOT 4, SMAC770 is spot on, my apologies

Sorry I missed this post.
Thanks for the correction. Appreciate you doing this.

I've got the Castrol React Performance Brake Fluid DOT 4.
https://www.sparesbox.com.au/part/ca...-500ml-3377737

On my bottle, it does say that it meets the specification FMVSS 116 DOT 4 as reported by @Smac770 earlier so it sounds like it's the right one.
Thanks everyone for helping.

[Arese]

2.10.3 Sequence and Brake Fluid Capacity Table
Left front 200 ml
Right front 200 ml
Left rear 200 ml
Right rear 200 ml

Hey @Smac770, I'm glad you posted this.

I was always told to bleed brakes from the farthest to the closest. All resources online I came across say the same thing. Here's the first result when I search for "brake bleeding sequence"

Begin at the corner furthest from the driver and proceed in order toward the driver. (Right rear, left rear, right front, left front.) While the actual sequence is not critical to the bleed performance it is easy to remember the sequence as the farthest to the closest. This will also allow the system to be bled in such a way as to minimize the amount of potential cross-contamination between the new and old fluid.

I'm actually inclined to follow your sequence since it seems like your instructions are coming from a workshop manual but any idea why AUDI would recommend bleeding the brake the opposite way than most cars? Genuinely curious

[Smac770]

So brake fluid.

FMVSS 116 defines:

DOT 3
DOT 4
DOT 5
DOT 5.1

The boiling point of DOT 3 < DOT 4 < DOT 5. DOT 5 is a different chemical composition than prior generations. This was amended with DOT 5.1, which meets DOT 5 performance with DOT 3 / DOT 4 compatible chemistry.

"DOT 4 LV", "DOT 4+", "Super DOT 4", "DOT 4 Class 6" are all marketing terms. They have no basis in FMVSS 116.

FMVSS 116 is a US regulation. Europe goes by the ISO 4925 standard, which defines classes:

ISO 4925, class 3 - akin to FVMSS 116, DOT 3
ISO 4925, class 4 - akin to FVMSS 116, DOT 4
ISO 4925, class 6 - no defined equivalent in FVMSS 116; this is the specification that DOT 4 LV implements
ISO 4925, class 5-1 - akin to FVMSS 116 DOT 5.1

So now we get an idea where this "class 6" term comes from. There's no DOT 4 class 6; it's marketing fools throwing disjoint terms together. Apparently "FMVSS 116 DOT 4 / ISO 4925 class 6" just takes too much ink.

Way back around 2005 or so, VAG came up with their VW 501 14 standard as a more stringent spec to DOT 4 aka class 4, requiring lower viscosity at low temps. That's where the difference of class 4 and class 6 occurs, at very low temps. Measured at -40°C. With newer ESP systems utilizing the ABS system, for them to work within spec at very low temps, the high viscosity of DOT 4 (at low temps) was an issue. The German makers had their own standards, eventually ISO ended up defining class 6. This is a very good presentation page: https://www.remmenbrakes.com/brake-fluid-standards/


When we look at the actual Audi OE brake fluid bottle for the B8 vehicles, B 000 750, what do we see?



"DOT 4 class 6" So that's clearly going to be the "DOT 4 LV" range of products.


Will it matter if it's not seriously freezing where you are? Not likely. Is there any reason to not go "LV"? No. LV has half the viscosity at freezing temps, and a higher boiling point at higher temps. Hell, one wonders why not use 5.1 or the new "6" stuff if you're going performance use.

https://garagewire.co.uk/news/bosch-...and-esp-fluid/
https://www.boschaftermarket.com/xrm...broch_2020.pdf

https://blog.mddistributorsstore.com...ug_02_2017.pdf
ESI = extended service interval

[hahnmgh63]

SMAC saves the day. I have the manuals but I only start about 15~20 psi and never consistently keep it pressurized to 20 psi. I've also used the old fashioned method of farthest away. Tells me I need to read the whole damn manual next time and learn something new.

Bleeding sequence
1 - Front left-side brake caliper
2 - Front right-side brake caliper
3 - Rear left-side brake caliper
4 - Rear right-side brake caliper
– Keep bleeding the calipers until clear, foam-free brake fluid
emerges.
– Close bleeder screws.

[32spoke]

DOT 5 is silicone based, instead glycol based. Silicone is offered, I have it in stock at my stores, but seldom does it sell. It is NOT miscible with glycol brake based brake fluids and causes problems when someone swaps from glycol to silicone based brake fluid. Silicone fluid also aerates/foams up in ABS servos....hence not used in almost everything. I have see the consequences of switching to DOT 5 silicone from DOT 3/DOT 4/DOT5.1, to silicone.. the incompatibility is readily seen over time in the low points of a brake system where the residue of the incompatible remaining fluid gravitates to, and becomes gel, a mess..... Silicone does have one benefit that glycol brake fluid does not, it is not hygroscopic.

Lower viscosity fluids are more thermally conductive, until the point where they fail. example, water is far more thermally conductive than glycol based coolant/anti-freeze. Glycol is more thermally stable but water is more thermally conductive. Race races generally run a high pressure radiator cap and distilled water with a detergent package like.....Water Wetter from Red Line Oil. the Detergent helps eliminate surface tension in water, making it even more thermally conductive. the higher pressure setting helps eliminate the instability of the water boiling, but at the risk of leaking more readily than a lower pressure cooling system. everything has pros and cons.... 100% antifreeze cannot conduct heat from cylinder heads efficiently, so a blend of water and antifreeze is in almost every vehicle out there, with a few exceptions.

I would definitely use OE spec brake fluid on this vehicle, and I just sent an email to PENTOSIN.NET, to clarify the discrepancy.

[hahnmgh63]

DOT 5 Silicone fluid has some great properties but it has a much greater compressibilty than Glycol so it is specifically not recommended for ABS braking systems. The military is a big user in many of its Fleet vehicles without ABS. A lot of the Military vehicles sit for long periods and Silicone is not Hydroscopic so a good DOT 5 system can sit for years without the worry of corrosion. The only time corrosion can be an issue is when a Glycol system is converted to Silicone and not properly flushed. My ex-Military HMMWV came with DOT5 Silicone and specifically says not to use Glycol....but it doesn't have ABS either.

[32spoke]

yup! silicone is great for trailer queens-.... I would guess that the best flush for glycol brake fluid is...........water?

[Smac770]

but any idea why AUDI would recommend bleeding the brake the opposite way than most cars? Genuinely curious

The old "start with the furthest" is definitely very old approach from before even ABS. It might still be viable, but how much benefit it is over the Audi instructions is questionable. I can't say though what basis Audi used to make that text. Since the debate almost certainly lacks any validated scientific basis in a modern ABS/ESP environment, the writer's guess is likely just as much a "eh, we'll just go this way" as any other method. I personally have no reason to go against the documentation for my vehicle. But if you prefer the opposite, I have no problem saying "I highly doubt it matters". I think keeping the system air tight and pressurized and not letting the fluid level get low is more valuable. Ie, making sure your pressure pump is not ingesting air via a seal leak, etc.

[Smac770]

Not sure where DOT 5 silicone came into the subject. Under no circumstance for any reason would you put such a thing in any Audi I know of. Reason why DOT made it illegal to have blue colored glycol fluid. Which sucks for people who know how to pay attention, but I guess they have to consider their audience (shop techs). Be nice if we at least had yellow and green or yellow and red or whatever.

[RPMtech147]

That's interesting. I used 15 psi and it bled just fine.

1 bar works. 2 bar means there's no question. Issue with 30psi on a 10+ year old master is grenading the dry rotted master reservoir plastic. Ask me how I know = ) 1 bar should be fine.

Too add...I can't figure out why it matters what caliper you start with. (The way every modern hydro brake system works...there's no logical reason one caliper is better/worse than another to start the bleed/flush) I usually do furthest from the master, but on occasion, due to brain malfunctions, I started on the front and worked back, it made no difference.

[hahnmgh63]

I also have a 2003 C5 RS6 (manufacture date 01/2004, and yes a 2003 MY) and a further look at the shop manual shows the same 20psi and the same front to rear bleeding sequence. Who knows why but I've also never taken apart an ABS pump? Maybe something we're missing? Will it make a difference? So far I think not as I've tracked my RS5 & RS6 and never had issues with boiling the fluid (I acutally use Motul RBF600) but both cars have improved brake ducting, Euro Phaeton on the RS6 and the small ducts from the Macan on the S5 & RS5. With all of that said I will swap to the new/old front/rear sequence that I've learned here.

[Arese]

Way back around 2005 or so, VAG came up with their VW 501 14 standard as a more stringent spec to DOT 4 aka class 4, requiring lower viscosity at low temps. That's where the difference of class 4 and class 6 occurs, at very low temps. Measured at -40°C. With newer ESP systems utilizing the ABS system, for them to work within spec at very low temps, the high viscosity of DOT 4 (at low temps) was an issue. The German makers had their own standards, eventually ISO ended up defining class 6. This is a very good presentation page: https://www.remmenbrakes.com/brake-fluid-standards/


When we look at the actual Audi OE brake fluid bottle for the B8 vehicles, B 000 750, what do we see?



"DOT 4 class 6" So that's clearly going to be the "DOT 4 LV" range of products.


Will it matter if it's not seriously freezing where you are? Not likely. Is there any reason to not go "LV"? No. LV has half the viscosity at freezing temps, and a higher boiling point at higher temps. Hell, one wonders why not use 5.1 or the new "6" stuff if you're going performance use.

Thanks Smac.
So that's interesting, VAG developed their own "standard" called DOT 4 Class 6 (no defined equivalent in FVMSS 116) which features lower viscosity below freezing temperatures.

Well, if the S5 braking system was designed to operate with a specific low-temperature viscosity I'll stick with that. I didn't realize that VAG developed their own standard and assumed all cars used the same brake fluids under the DOT/SAE/ISO standards.

I'll ring up Audi and get the brake fluid directly from them then

[Arese]

The old "start with the furthest" is definitely very old approach from before even ABS. It might still be viable, but how much benefit it is over the Audi instructions is questionable. I can't say though what basis Audi used to make that text. Since the debate almost certainly lacks any validated scientific basis in a modern ABS/ESP environment, the writer's guess is likely just as much a "eh, we'll just go this way" as any other method. I personally have no reason to go against the documentation for my vehicle. But if you prefer the opposite, I have no problem saying "I highly doubt it matters". I think keeping the system air tight and pressurized and not letting the fluid level get low is more valuable. Ie, making sure your pressure pump is not ingesting air via a seal leak, etc.

Interesting. The "start with the furthest" method dates back to the pre-ABS era and I guess has been passed along with the generation without people wondering if it was still up to date.
Well I'm glad you posted the sequence, now I know better.

SMAC saves the day. I have the manuals but I only start about 15~20 psi and never consistently keep it pressurized to 20 psi. I've also used the old fashioned method of farthest away. Tells me I need to read the whole damn manual next time and learn something new.

Bleeding sequence
1 - Front left-side brake caliper
2 - Front right-side brake caliper
3 - Rear left-side brake caliper
4 - Rear right-side brake caliper
– Keep bleeding the calipers until clear, foam-free brake fluid
emerges.
– Close bleeder screws.

Thanks for confirming the bleeding sequence.
Quick question, assuming that this sequence pertains to a left-hand drive vehicle correct?

Mine is a right-hand drive so the sequence for me would be:

1 - Front right-side brake caliper
2 - Front left-side brake caliper
3 - Rear right-side brake caliper
4 - Rear left-side brake caliper

Thanks

[Smac770]

No, VW defined their own standard, same as the other German brands developed their own standards to improve upon general DOT 4 / ISO 4925 class 4. Eventually, ISO 4925 added a low viscosity definition called class 6, essentially standardizing what the various car companies had individually spec'd. Namely, the lower viscosity when cold. The VW standard name is VW 501 14. As I mentioned, "DOT 4 class 6" is not a defined standard. It's a misnomer for ISO 4925 class 6.

Bottom line, "DOT 4 LV", "DOT 4 class 6", etc. is what should be used in ABS+ESP equipped Audis. Original DOT 4 / class 4 with the around 1800 viscosity rating cold should not be preferred.

As to right hand drive, is the ABS/ESP unit not still on the left side of the engine bay? The manual doesn't mention consideration for LHD vs RHD, but it is a US spec manual.

[Arese]

No, VW defined their own standard, same as the other German brands developed their own standards to improve upon general DOT 4 / ISO 4925 class 4. Eventually, ISO 4925 added a low viscosity definition called class 6, essentially standardizing what the various car companies had individually spec'd. Namely, the lower viscosity when cold. The VW standard name is VW 501 14. As I mentioned, "DOT 4 class 6" is not a defined standard. It's a misnomer for ISO 4925 class 6.

Bottom line, "DOT 4 LV", "DOT 4 class 6", etc. is what should be used in ABS+ESP equipped Audis. Original DOT 4 / class 4 with the around 1800 viscosity rating cold should not be preferred.

As to right hand drive, is the ABS/ESP unit not still on the left side of the engine bay? The manual doesn't mention consideration for LHD vs RHD, but it is a US spec manual.

Here's an interesting one, it appears Audi in Australia doesn't use DOt 4 Class 6 but only DOT 4.
I went to Audi and they didn't have any Dot 4 class 6. The people I talked to didn't know what DOT 4 Class 6 was and I was told that this is the only brake fluid they use. If I was to service my car at Audi that's the brake fluid they would use.

Ref: B000750M1.

When you google the above reference you get that



However, located towards the bottom left you can see that it meets VAG 501 14 standards which is good.

I also found this brochure on Audi's website referring to what we talked about with regards to low-temperature viscosity. Interesting.
https://www.audi.com.au/dam/nemo/aus...rake_fluid.pdf

Anyway, DOT 4 class 6 or not, what matters is that it's Audi's genuine brake fluid and that it meets the VW 501 14 standards so I ordered 6 bottles from them.


With regards to the ABS/ESP unit, I'm actually not sure where it is on this car. I just took this picture, highlighted in green is the brake fluid reservoir.
Highlighted in red I believe is the ABS/ESP unit?

[Smac770]

It's the same part number, B 000 750. The original DOT 4 / ISO class 4 was B 000 700, based on what I read elsewhere. It's just the matter of the labeling. It correctly denotes itself as DOT 4, it omits any reference to an ISO class, but still denotes VW 501 14. So just a different label. If you tested it, it would be low viscosity (~750) rather than plain DOT 4 viscosity (~1800) at -40°C.

B5.0 catalog shows just B 000 700
B5.5 catalog shows B 000 700 and B 000 750
B6 catalog shows just B 000 750

So the VW 501 14 spec has been in place for a long time. B 000 700 A1 (250mL) was completely dropped in Jan '06. B 000 700 M3 (1L) was completely dropped in Feb '05. And B 000 700 M6 (10L) was completely dropped in May '06.

Appears class 6 was introduced in the 2005 rewrite (second edition) of ISO 4925. Best I can tell. The new 2020 rewrite (third edition) introduces a class 7 now.

There's apparently also a VAG "TL" term for the low viscosity fluid, VAG TL 766 Z (vs TL 766 X and TL 766 Y for original). Too much junk from back in the dark ages of magazines and libraries. Can't even find a spec sheet detailing what exactly are the VW 501 14 specs.

Any VW 501 14 compliant fluid will do, and any termed "DOT 4 LV" or "DOT 4 class 6" or such will be the same. A Liqui-Moly fluid: https://5.imimg.com/data5/SS/GR/MY-6...-sl6-dot-4.pdf
Viscosity at -40°C, 700 max. Viscosity at 100°C, around 1.

[Smac770]

For example, here's a DOT 4 brake fluid ("SL") by ATE, a well known company who even makes brake components for various Audi models.

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/ate-dot4-brake-fluid

But it says nothing about class 6, nothing about low viscosity. I wouldn't use it. Instead, their other fluid ("SL.6") would be correct for Audi usage:

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/sl6...-liter-ate-sl6

As broken down on their overview page as well: https://www.ate-na.com/products/brake-fluids/

[Smac770]

From the VW Golf owner's manual from another site:

Brake fluid specification

Volkswagen has developed a brake fluid that has been optimised for the brake system in the vehicle. To ensure optimal operation of the brake system, Volkswagen recommends the use of brake fluid compliant with VW standard 501 14.

Before using a particular brake fluid, check that the specifications printed on the container correspond to the vehicle requirements.

Brake fluid that is compliant with VW standard 501 14 is available from Volkswagen dealerships.

If this brake fluid is not available and it is necessary to use another high-quality brake fluid instead, brake fluid that is compliant with DIN ISO 4925 CLASS 4 or US standard FMVSS 116 DOT 4 can be used.

Not all brake fluids that are compliant with DIN ISO 4925 CLASS 4 or US standard FMVSS 116 DOT 4 have the same chemical composition. Some of these brake fluids may contain chemicals that can damage or destroy brake system components over time.

Volkswagen therefore recommends the use of brake fluid that is compliant with VW standard 501 14 to ensure sustained optimal operation of the brake system.

Brake fluid that is compliant with VW standard 501 14 fulfils the requirements of DIN ISO 4925 CLASS 4 or US standard FMVSS 116 DOT 4.

So the primary concern is VW 501 14 compliance. Only those fluids that are ISO 4925 class 6 (which not only addressed the cold viscosity issue but also the chemistry compatibility issue with new seals that were being introduced 20 years ago) are going to possibly meet VW 501 14. Only those fluids that meet DOT 4 are going to possibly meet ISO 4925 class 6.

[32spoke]

this is what an oil engineer from Pentosin wrote to me:
VW brake fluid B000750 is a Class 6 brake fluid. All Class 6 brake fluids are LV brake fluid. VW has always called their brake fluid DOT 4 so they never changed it to read DOT4 LV but it is the same Class 6 OE brake fluid that is in our DOT4 LV 1224116 can.

here is a little bit of an explanation

https://www.bgprod.com/blog/everythi...t-brake-fluid/

[Arese]

Sweet I'm thanks for the extra info guys, super insightful and I'm happy to know that I've got the right brake fluid for my car now! Really appreciate all the help.

Last thing, regarding the bleeding sequence, can someone confirm that the part I've highlihted in red below is the ABS/ESP unit?



If it is indeed the ABS/ESP unit, is it located in the same location as a LHD vehicle?

[Smac770]

Yes, red with all the hard lines is the ABS/ESP unit, same location for LHD and RHD vehicles. They did move the reservoir to the right side, keeping that near the booster (on the driver's side, whichever side that be).

[Arese]

Job done!

It was my first time using a 1-person brake fluid pump and that thing is great.
After bleeding all 4 calipers, I went to disconnect the pump from the brake fluid reservoir thinking I would then need to top up to the max line.
Turns out, the pump added the exact same amount of new brake fluid into the system/reservoir as I had removed. It's great!

Old brake fluid was 2 years old and it was surprisingly clear to the point that I couldn't tell the difference between the old and new brake fluid when bleeding. So I ended up bleeding 200ml per caliper.

Also, as many of you said, 1 bar was enough to bleed the brakes.

I'm good to go for 2 more years, thanks everyone for all the info and great insights, thanks to you all I was able to do a proper job

Cheers