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  1. #1
    Junior Member One Ring
    Join Date
    Feb 25 2021
    AZ Member #
    589254
    Location
    Syracuse NY

    Q7 (4M) Broken Rear Spring Replacement DIY

    It seems like the 2017+ Q7 has issues with the rear coil springs breaking near the base of the spring around 80-100k miles. This is visually easy to see as the broken spring tends to slide off the spring seat and causes damage to the spring seat.

    This recently happened to my 2017 Q7 with 85k miles. I didn't even notice until I was under the car inspecting the brakes. It happened on my driver side rear spring, and I've seen posts of it happening to passenger side, as well.

    This is what I bought and it came to around $550 (qty 2 of each):
    Springs: 4M0-511-115-EF
    Lower spring seat: 4M0-512-297-B
    Top spring plate: 4K0-512-149-F

    The pics attached to this post show the broken spring. The next post will explain the steps.

    Sent from my SM-G970U1 using Tapatalk

  2. #2
    Junior Member One Ring
    Join Date
    Feb 25 2021
    AZ Member #
    589254
    Location
    Syracuse NY

    Tools needed:
    - Some method to jack up and support the vehicle
    - Large metal pipe (4' long is good). I use the handle from my steel floor jack.
    - Set of spring compressors
    - 16mm, 17mm, 18mm wrenches, ratchets/sockets
    - Pry bar(s)
    - Locking vice grips
    - Hammer
    - Floor jack (lifting wheel hub to align shock and sway bar)


    Steps:

    1) Remove the plastic lug nut covers using the tool under the trunk floor.

    2) Loosen the rear lug nuts to ensure the wheels can be easily removed once the vehicle is in the air.

    3) Jack up the rear of the vehicle. I used a Quickjack set up sideways. If I did this again, I might use 2 rubber blocks to add clearance under the vehicle for the quickjack extension frame that fit the exhaust and other things. There are a couple other ways to jack up the vehicle, too. (see pic #1)

    4) Remove the wheels

    5) Remove the plastic wind deflectors under the suspension control arm. These are pretty annoying to remove. They have a long plastic pin that holds them on. The pin has a flange that needs to be squeezed tight to allow it to pass back through 2 metal holes and a hole in a plastic tab for removal. I used locking vice grips to pinch the plastic pin to allow it to slide through each of the 3 holes it needed to slide out of. I used a hammer and a screwdriver to help tap the pin out (see pics #2-5)

    6) Attach the spring compressors on each side of the spring and tighten them down. Ideally, you want to get at least 4 coils within the compressor to stand a chance at having enough room to replace the spring. (see pics #6-7)

    7) Remove the shock and set it aside. There are three bolts (2 attach the shock to the body, and the 3rd to a lower control arm). This is a very easy step. You can also further tighten the spring compressors, if need be.

    8) Remove the sway bar bolt & nut. This should also be easy. This should allow the lower control arm to drop lower in the next step.

    9) The metal pipe is used to pull the control arms down to create extra clearance for the spring. You (or perhaps a friend) literally have to stand on the pipe to pull the arm low enough. The pipe works best when placed in the middle of the 2 aluminum control arms. The pipe will fit nicely into a hole in the steel subframe. (see pics #8-9)

    10) When pushing down on the pipe, pull out the compressed spring, spring seat, and upper pad.

    11) install is reverse. Swap the spring compressors over to the new spring. (see pics #10)

    12) Install the top spring pad into its spot. It's keyed and snaps into place.

    13) Install the lower spring seat into place

    14) Step on the metal pipe again and carefully slide in the compressed spring. If you aren't able to get it in, perhaps another pry bar on the spring and some lube will help get the spring seated.

    15) Remove the compressors, install the shock (use a floorjack with rubber pad to lift up the wheel hub (bottom of control arm) to align the shock with control arm. Install the long shock bolt and nut. Install the sway bar bolt and nut (use floor jack again to get alignment) (see pic #11)

    16) Install wind deflectors and wheels

    17) Lower vehicle to ground and torque lug nuts to 120 ft/lbs. Put plastic lug caps back on.

    Sent from my SM-G970U1 using Tapatalk

  3. #3
    Senior Member Three Rings angrycatmeow's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 22 2022
    AZ Member #
    665700
    Location
    FL, US

    Which quick jack do you use? I have a 5000SLX and using it on the Q7 maxxing out it's capacity seems kind of sketch to me.

    Sent from my Pixel 6 Pro using Tapatalk

  4. #4
    Junior Member One Ring
    Join Date
    Feb 25 2021
    AZ Member #
    589254
    Location
    Syracuse NY

    Quote Originally Posted by angrycatmeow View Post
    Which quick jack do you use? I have a 5000SLX and using it on the Q7 maxxing out it's capacity seems kind of sketch to me.

    Sent from my Pixel 6 Pro using Tapatalk
    5000SLX, I think. I've never lifted the entire Q7 on 2 Quickjacks before. I'm not sure how much weight is on a single Quickjack when it's used across the back like I had it. I suppose it could be more than 2500lbs. It was definitely lifting it slow. Not sure I'd recommend it again, in hindsight.

    Sent from my SM-G970U1 using Tapatalk

  5. #5
    Senior Member Three Rings angrycatmeow's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 22 2022
    AZ Member #
    665700
    Location
    FL, US

    Quote Originally Posted by Dispatch20 View Post
    5000SLX, I think. I've never lifted the entire Q7 on 2 Quickjacks before. I'm not sure how much weight is on a single Quickjack when it's used across the back like I had it. I suppose it could be more than 2500lbs. It was definitely lifting it slow. Not sure I'd recommend it again, in hindsight.

    Sent from my SM-G970U1 using Tapatalk
    Yeah I've definitely been thinking of when it comes time for a trans service or rotation will my QJ's hold up lol. The truck is right at about 5k lbs. I'm sure it would be fine but I'd definitely have some jack stands and stuff under it as well.

    Sent from my Pixel 6 Pro using Tapatalk

  6. #6
    Veteran Member Four Rings JWebb_C7_Comp's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 11 2018
    AZ Member #
    412335
    My Garage
    Civic, A6, Q7
    Location
    Chi-Burbs

    Quote Originally Posted by Dispatch20 View Post
    It seems like the 2017+ Q7 has issues with the rear coil springs breaking near the base of the spring around 80-100k miles. This is visually easy to see as the broken spring tends to slide off the spring seat and causes damage to the spring seat.

    This recently happened to my 2017 Q7 with 85k miles. I didn't even notice until I was under the car inspecting the brakes. It happened on my driver side rear spring, and I've seen posts of it happening to passenger side, as well.

    This is what I bought and it came to around $550 (qty 2 of each):
    Springs: 4M0-511-115-EF
    Lower spring seat: 4M0-512-297-B
    Top spring plate: 4K0-512-149-F

    The pics attached to this post show the broken spring. The next post will explain the steps.

    Sent from my SM-G970U1 using Tapatalk
    This is a fantastic DIY with a wealth of information; thank you!

    Question: The lower spring cups on our 2017 Q7 with about 97K miles are starting to tear. Dealer warns this is the early sign of springs slipping and breaking and they suggest new lower cups to prevent that from happening. Why not replace (1) lower cups (insulators), (2) upper hats (insulators) and (3) springs given that age/mileage. Cost for parts appears to be about $650 at this point. I'd guess labor NOT AT DEALER would be about 3 hours.

    Does 3 hours see seem correct for labor? Also, if I decided to do shocks at the same time, that really wouldn't add much more than 30 to 45min labor to an honest shop, right?

    With all that said, I'm thinking somewhat proactive in parts replacement given time to take rear apart to do the spring cups because we have owned the Q since day 1, maintained it well, and it seems to be in good shape at the moment. Only "problems" we've had have been (1) small leak from water pump that convinced us to replace before a vacation road trip and (2) a starter that had the vehicle towed to dealer who charged something like a billion to fix that. I had checked codes, gave information to our independent mechanic and they even scanned it before letting it go to the dealer. They wanted nothing to do with determining if it was wiring, grounding, starter, engine...

    Anyway, we're keeping this vehicle another 4 years if reasonable.
    Last edited by JWebb_C7_Comp; 06-05-2024 at 12:02 PM.

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