Turbo removal - any special tools?

[ps2cho]

In my next step to diagnose why my turbo can’t pull ideal air volume and lumpy power, I want to pull the cat off so I can check the wastegate and arm.

Is there any special tools you guys recommend?

If I find anything I may just replace the turbo and be done with it, although I’m a little pissed it only has 38k on it…so any tools I should get ahead of time to make the job easier?

[misiak]

Make sure you have a nice collection of triple square sockets.

[MongoMcG]

In my next step to diagnose why my turbo can’t pull ideal air volume and lumpy power, I want to pull the cat off so I can check the wastegate and arm.

Is there any special tools you guys recommend?

If I find anything I may just replace the turbo and be done with it, although I’m a little pissed it only has 38k on it…so any tools I should get ahead of time to make the job easier?

If you are just moving the cat out of the way to inspect the wastegate you will need a 12 inch extension to reach the unseen nut (lower driver-side). A bunch of youtube videos are using a crazy combination of extensions and reaching this nut from underneath the car - totally unnecessary. You can reach this nut from above, feathering in from the rear of the motor with the ratchet in your right hand and your left hand reaching under the cat to feel the socket and nut to guide it into place. I would replace the gasket (part #8K0253115L) and the nuts (4 of WHT002514) which are torqued to 25Nm all around first and then 40Nm. Coat the studs in high temp anti seize compound (what Audi calls hot bolt paste). Permatex makes copper based (‎09128 - up to 1800°) and a nickel based (77134 - up to 2400°) anti seize compounds.

If/when 'project creep' kicks in...
If you are going to remove the turbo you will need a stubby triple square to remove the banjo bolt near the frame rail, such as from OTC #5942. Also, one of the bolts that holds the heat shield in place above the turbo is a 6mm hex plug (N0160255), situated at the rear of the heat shield (06H129597G), and the exhaust manifold can get in the way. A ball end allen key can strip the bolt, but it's easier to get in there. I used a straight allen key and was able to get it in there with the long part of the allen wrench pointed toward the rear of the car. The other two bolts for the heat shield (2 of N10572403) are M8 triple squares. Torque heat shield bolts to 10Nm.

If you are going to completely remove the cat you will need an O2 sensor socket like the Schley Products (SLY88750B), or an O2 wrench like the Schwaben FO-78. The front O2 sensor (1K0998262L) is easy; the rear O2 sensor (1K0998262T) is a huge pia, and I waited for cat removal before pulling this sensor. That made pulling the cat out of the car a more delicate operation to protect that sensor, which, for me, was easier than removing it in car. The O2 sensors will need hi temp anti seize as well, but be sure to only apply to the threads of the sensor - it'll mess with the sensor if you're sloppy. Torque to 55Nm. With low miles the nuts at the cat to mid pipe flange (3 of N91130801) will probably be okay, but if they are a corroded mess there are some tricks (e.g. tapping an 11mm socket onto the nut) depending on the state of the nuts. And here is where you will need a crazy combination of extensions to reach one of the nuts on the flange from above. The other two can be done from under the car, so jack stands or a lift are needed.

PB Blaster penetrating oil.

Here is a torque spec chart which also notes which bolts/nuts must be replaced (not re-used):

[Smac770]

You shouldn't need to remove the O2 sensors to just back the cat off to inspect the wastegate.

Two nuts on the clamping sleeve at the end of the downpipe, the nut/bolt that holds the downpipe to the chassis bracket, the four nuts on the cat2turbo studs, after pulling the air box. You'll need stands or such for the exhaust components to rest on; don't let the flex section of the downpipe bend more than 10°.

The turbo itself, you'll need an M12, iirc, triple-square for the oil line banjo bolts; the coolant line banjo bolts should be allen.

Definitely suggest 1/4" and 3/8" integrated swivel sockets for dealing with the nuts on the studs. Problem being at that point is the sockets usually have shallow well depth. Audi always making sure it's harder than it should have been.

[MongoMcG]

You shouldn't need to remove the O2 sensors to just back the cat off to inspect the wastegate.

True that, Smac. I was only providing information for cat and turbo removal if/when project creep takes over. Thanks for clarifying - I edited my first response to reflect your wisdom.

[ps2cho]

Fantastic guys that is exactly what I needed.
I recently sold my E350 so I am down to one car, so what usually I didnt worry about and just bought things I needed when I discovered I now need to think ahead. I have all the "standard" tools, torx, triple square...so specialized things for access such as the OTC 5942 is just what I was looking for.
I don't have any rust to worry about here in AZ, but I may still buy some new exhaust nuts just to be on the safe side in case. good idea there. I have anti-seize but not high temp so I'll grab some of that as well.

If I do find a clear issue thats unfixable I dont think I have any plans to go K04...so is there any noticable difference in sticking with an OE Audi versus IHI/Borg Warner aftermarket?

[Smac770]

If he gets far enough to want to be removing the turbo, he needs to have the workshop manuals on hand. erwin.audiusa.com, pay for a day, get all the PDFs for your VIN.

The one step in the formal process I skipped was doing anything with the motor mount. I didn't need to mess with it to get the bolt that holds the bracket that supports the turbo.

[ps2cho]

I did grab all the erwin manuals last year so I have everything on that front and I will follow as necessary. Thanks.

[Nano909]

You shouldn't need to remove the O2 sensors to just back the cat off to inspect the wastegate.

I remove the front one just so I can have the room to easily remove the bottom-driver side nut. That nut can easily be removed with two small extensions.

[MongoMcG]

re: aftermarket BW vs Audi stock
If your car needs to be on the road and not on jack stands, then a stock replacement makes a lot of sense. If the idea of more power is too intoxicating but you don't want to build a stage 3 racing car, you can still go stock turbo (stock everything, actually) with a stage 1 tune. We're going APR stage 1 from the local APR dealer on the B9 as soon as the warranty is done so my wife doesn't feel left out of the fun. IMO, the stage 1 tune puts the car about where it should be from the factory. Prices for off the shelf (OTS) tunes are reasonable, they are easy to flash, and there are a few good vendors to choose from with rock solid OTS tunes. They all kick up the fun factor. If the mod bug has bitten, you can later add a high-flow cat, cold air intake and bigger intercooler for a bump in power and a bit more aggressive sound (both input and output) on the stage 1 tune. From there you can go to an OTS stage 2 tune, but from what I've read the difference from stage 1 to stage 2 is not as exciting as stock to stage 1.

[ps2cho]

re: aftermarket BW vs Audi stock
If your car needs to be on the road and not on jack stands, then a stock replacement makes a lot of sense. If the idea of more power is too intoxicating but you don't want to build a stage 3 racing car, you can still go stock turbo (stock everything, actually) with a stage 1 tune. We're going APR stage 1 from the local APR dealer on the B9 as soon as the warranty is done so my wife doesn't feel left out of the fun. IMO, the stage 1 tune puts the car about where it should be from the factory. Prices for off the shelf (OTS) tunes are reasonable, they are easy to flash, and there are a few good vendors to choose from with rock solid OTS tunes. They all kick up the fun factor. If the mod bug has bitten, you can later add a high-flow cat, cold air intake and bigger intercooler for a bump in power and a bit more aggressive sound (both input and output) on the stage 1 tune. From there you can go to an OTS stage 2 tune, but from what I've read the difference from stage 1 to stage 2 is not as exciting as stock to stage 1.

I am stage 1 right now, and I was having a bunch of throttle response issues, lower than expected air volume, and dead spots in the power band. The IE tuner did a bunch of revisions and eventually set /w the wastegate duty cycle which he commented after the last data log shows the turbo is likely on its last legs and its just not able to output at max.

Stage 1 if its running "right" was enough power for me. Reliability is more important to me than going beyond stage 1, so I think a stock Turbo is good with me.

The caveat is I still have the Audi after-run coolant pump/Turbo extended warranty until September...so I am HOPING I get a CEL before then, and it'll be on their dime...but if I don't (and knowing my luck I won't)...then I'm on the hook.

[Smac770]

I go at the lower left one from under the car, but I have that luxury since I have QuickJacks to lift the entire car straight up. It's also easy to hit with a torque wrench at the plenum wall.

As for a replacement turbo, they are all the same if you're talking the IHI and BW OEM units. BW made the B7 turbos, then the B8 units were generally the same but now IHI Turbo made. IHI Turbo is a joint venture of BW and IHI Corp. And CloverTurbo is the aftermarket brand name of IHI Turbo. etc., etc., etc.

I'd still prefer an IHI Turbo or CloverTurbo unit over a repurposed BW B7 unit (consider the number of vanes on the exhaust wheel, etc). But they're all the same operationally and from an R&R process.

If you're talking about something that is not of the OE design, then you're stepping into tunes and custom work, etc.

[ps2cho]

I go at the lower left one from under the car, but I have that luxury since I have QuickJacks to lift the entire car straight up. It's also easy to hit with a torque wrench at the plenum wall.

As for a replacement turbo, they are all the same if you're talking the IHI and BW OEM units. BW made the B7 turbos, then the B8 units were generally the same but now IHI Turbo made. IHI Turbo is a joint venture of BW and IHI Corp. And CloverTurbo is the aftermarket brand name of IHI Turbo. etc., etc., etc.

I'd still prefer an IHI Turbo or CloverTurbo unit over a repurposed BW B7 unit (consider the number of vanes on the exhaust wheel, etc). But they're all the same operationally and from an R&R process.

If you're talking about something that is not of the OE design, then you're stepping into tunes and custom work, etc.

got it. It appears audi cost to dealers for the OE Turbo is $1480. I found the cheapest markup at $1,610, so I'll have to think if thats worth the IHI @ $1,100 and BorgWarner @ $1,350.
I'm probably jumping ahead already, but I am a planner and I'll just address the issue sooner so its solved (if my warranty expires without a CEL in september).

Thanks for the info on the tools - I've got them ordered and over the next couple weeks I'll get the Cat pulled off and inspect the existing Turbo and report back what I find.

[MongoMcG]

I've never wished for a CEL for anybody, but in your case I'll make an exception for three months.
Don't know if presented symptoms could indicate a problem with the intake manifold flappers, but maybe another forum member does. Just tossing ideas.

[ps2cho]

https://datazap.me/u/ps2cho/115v-tun...&zoom=618-4871
I guess I haven't considered other items... I am just going off the tuners comment as Turbo being the first place to look basically

quote from IE Tuner- I limited the maximum wastegate duty cycle in your latest file. Before doing this it was holding the wastegate fully shut through the whole pull. This is usually a sign of a dying turbo, our boost request should be able to be met with around 70% duty cycle in the midrange. The fact that it made so much less boost when limited to about 85% shows that it is probably on its last leg too.

[ps2cho]

Finally got some time to try and look at the wastegate...well...started to...

...I appear to be stuck on the exhaust stud nuts...all my sockets are either too shallow, or too deep. I have an integrated swivel socket set that is 1/4, but it only goes up to 13mm...so I think I'm sort of stumped. I'll have to either find some shorter deep sockets, or go buy the 3/8 integrated socket set unless you guys have any other tips?

[Smac770]

3/8" swivel socket is what I used (15mm?). Even then, it's on the edge of just being too shallow, but it does get it done. But I've done it in the past with 3/8" normal socket and universal joint. I've done it too with 1/2" stuff, but it's a tight in there with that; you're working at a wide angle there.

[Nano909]

A short triple square set is a must.

[RPMtech147]

Finally got some time to try and look at the wastegate...well...started to...

...I appear to be stuck on the exhaust stud nuts...all my sockets are either too shallow, or too deep. I have an integrated swivel socket set that is 1/4, but it only goes up to 13mm...so I think I'm sort of stumped. I'll have to either find some shorter deep sockets, or go buy the 3/8 integrated socket set unless you guys have any other tips?

You can get to the top and outer bottom bolts with a wrench. The inner lower bolt is the one that takes some finesse.

I have a set of Snap-on mid-depth sockets that I use for the inside lower. I take a long extension, 24", stick a universal on the end of that, another 12" extension onto the universal, then a 15mm mid-depth on top of that. I snake the wobble-fest of a setup (from under the car and around the exhaust) roughly to the nut, and then look through the inside of the wheel well, you can just see the lower nut you're going after. It use to be a cuss-worthy task, but after I started doing it this way, that last bolt only takes an extra minute. If your universals are too floppy, wrap them with some electrical tape.

I don't expect most to buy a $300 Snap-on socket set, but these https://www.amazon.com/GEARWRENCH-Dr...a-435270381771 can be had for $50; and worth every penny. Middys are so useful, I'm seriously considering moving just mid sets to my rollcart, and putting my deep/shallow sockets in my big box as 95% of the time, I'm working out of my roll-cart.

[silver_tt]

In my next step to diagnose why my turbo can’t pull ideal air volume and lumpy power, I want to pull the cat off so I can check the wastegate and arm.

Is there any special tools you guys recommend?

If I find anything I may just replace the turbo and be done with it, although I’m a little pissed it only has 38k on it…so any tools I should get ahead of time to make the job easier?

Is this for your 2016 2.0T? If you had the after run coolant pump recalls done your turbocharger is under warranty and you can get a new one free from Audi and they will do the install for free. For example: My 2014's turbo with 105K miles on it is still under warranty almost until the end of 2023.

Surprised no one pointed this out so sorry if I am misunderstanding something.

[ps2cho]

Thanks RPM - I’m going to order that set, I can see the value of a mid length!

Yes I have the warranty still, but they won’t do crap unless I have a CEL, which I dont, I’m just having some minor performance losses, which I suspect is the wastegate.

After I got done cussing at the nuts it was 115F in the garage so I called it for the day to restrategize. I’ll get those sockets on order,

I also ran to HF and got some swivel sockets and long handle wrenches so I think now I’m properly armed.