How do I Properly Torque Suspension Components?!

[aurda]

Hey guys. I just recently installed EMD springs on my S4 but I hear some creaking noises sometimes on certain turns. Regardless I want to go back and double check I torque everything properly.

Can anyone point me to a thread or explain how I should go about using my torque wrench in places it won't fit? Can't find a torque wrench that's less than 14" in length. How am I supposed to torque in these small spaces?

Also, does anyone have a guide/visual on what the degrees stand for? I.e. 40 Nm + 90..

Thanks!

[XSWG]

Springs take about a week to settle, you should get it aligned after installing the springs specifically to ensure the load is distributed appropriately. The alignment should consider the drop in mm or inches for laser accuracy.

You can use extensions for the torque wrench depending on how much clearance you needed but I used a ramp for the S4 and a lift for the S5 so we didn't have any clearance issues.

For conversion: https://www.thecalculatorsite.com/co...oot-pounds.php

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[oxxomxxo]

You need to torque suspension components at load, meaning your car has to be at ride height when torquing.


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[oesman]

You need to torque suspension components at load, meaning your car has to be at ride height when torquing.


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Yep anything that can be affected by preload should be torqued at load.

[RPMtech147]

You need to torque suspension components at load, meaning your car has to be at ride height when torquing.


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As said, all bushing need to be torqued vehicle laden, which is a pain in the butt if you don't have a 4 ramps, much less a drive on lift. From my experience, creaking and popping after a spring install is due to the spring not being seated on the perch/isolator rubbers properly or some of the hardware just not being tightend up enough, especially the sway bar links. Assuming you loosened a number of bushings to remove the springs, then tightened everything up, full droop, then lowered the car...it's a good possibility you damaged those bushings.

On the front, I believe you only have to remove the lower bolt of the 1/2 wishbone that attaches to the lower control arm and the sway bar link(Someone correct me if I'm wrong) On the rear the ELSA wants you to compress the spring with a special tool. I just unbolt the subframe to let it drop a few cm and pop the springs out with a big pry-bar.

Check your spring seating, recheck all your hardware. As far as torque, you need to get it up on ramps or worst case get 4 8X8 (if you can get a hardware store to cut 4 12" long sections) For the cost of lumber, a couple sets of part-store ramps is probably cheaper. The car is so low you'll probably have jack the car up and slide the ramps under the wheels.

https://www.amazon.com/RhinoGear-119...s%2C200&sr=8-2

We don't have an alignment machine or drive on lift at work, but we use these to load cars after doing suspension work, then we crawl under them and torque everything. Kinda pricy for hobby wrenching though.

https://speedzoneweb-com.myshopify.c...smart_campaign

[will13k7]

don't forget to buy new one-time-use stretch bolts if you encountered any of those.

[aurda]

I just finished torquing them at load (ride height) and I went for a test drive and no noises whatsoever.

What I did was lift the car and place it on jack stands one wheel at a time and then use the jack under the lowest suspension component (right behind the brake) to push it to ride height and then still be able to access all the bolts at load.

[aurda]

Only issue I'm having now is that after the alignment, they cambered the driver's back wheel too much camber in positive direction. Now with the 12.5mm spacer i feel some rub on big bumps.. :/

[CELison]

Tq + deg. is just that. You first torque to the spec, then turn the bolt X degrees. Most digital tq. wrenches can read in degrees, even if you ratchet it. A must have tool if you do any sort of wrenching on cars.