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Thread: 17z install...

  1. #1
    Established Member Two Rings Rayhan's Avatar
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    17z install...

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    Before everyone goes mad yes i have used the search bar and been looking online.

    Ive got a set of incoming 17z and decided to go with the v70r rotors as id rather drill the lugs out myself then send a set of disks out each time to bore the center of a ML disk. Plus the added benefit of the v70r disk being 32mm

    My question is how much the calliper mounting tabs has to be machined down so disk can sit center.

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    Veteran Member Four Rings canadianA4B7's Avatar
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    You need the b5 big brake thread. All the info is answered in that section.

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    Veteran Member Four Rings oVeRdOsE's Avatar
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    0.076" or about 2mm.

    I've used Benz ML320 330mm, and remove 1mm dia on the center bore, is easy as 3 min with a sanding flap disk on a dremel.

    V70r you have to drill the studs holes.

    each option has work to do.

    choose a quality rotor , and you'll change those every 70k km.


    https://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...(low-cost-BBK)

    https://matteasom.com/auto/2018/brem...udi-a4-s4-rs4/

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    Established Member Two Rings Rayhan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by canadianA4B7 View Post
    You need the b5 big brake thread. All the info is answered in that section.
    Wasnt sure if that was the best option for me as that would leave me with more confusion. Id start asking myself is the hubs offset the same as the b7 hub from the spindle etc. Rather just get the info on a b7 platform.

    Might just turn this into a diy thread when all the parts are here

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  5. #5
    Established Member Two Rings Rayhan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by oVeRdOsE View Post
    0.076" or about 2mm.

    I've used Benz ML320 330mm, and remove 1mm dia on the center bore, is easy as 3 min with a sanding flap disk on a dremel.

    V70r you have to drill the studs holes.

    each option has work to do.

    choose a quality rotor , and you'll change those every 70k km.


    https://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...(low-cost-BBK)

    https://matteasom.com/auto/2018/brem...udi-a4-s4-rs4/
    Thanks for the response. Iv read from both of them links, very helpful which is what helped me reduce my questions down to two. One being the one i asked and the othere being the diameter of the center hub.

    Iv been reading everywhere regarding the brakes we need 68mm for the centre of the brake disk. But when i was looking for wheel spacers i was being told 57.7*mm if the centre bore. I might just take my wheel off and measure it

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    Veteran Member Four Rings Audibot's Avatar
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    I used the MB discs for my 18Z kit, and like oVeRdOsE above, expanded them another mm and they fit like a glove.
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    Established Member Two Rings Rayhan's Avatar
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    My debate thats going on in my head is, how much work do i want to put in regarding installing the actual calliper itself.

    MB disks.
    As far as im aware and have read requirs work done to the spindle and disk and i think the calliper

    Volvo v70r.
    Requires just the calliper tabs to bring the calliper out abit so the disk sits central.

    Not sure but to me it just seems like the volvo option is the better one for me. Ofcourse this is opinion/personal preference based.

    But regarding the disk id be more comfortable with the lug holes being abit messed up (if a mistake was made) rather then me making a screw up on the MB disk and it not sittinf true.

    Might just be waffling lol, just waiting for it to come already.

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    Veteran Member Four Rings oVeRdOsE's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rayhan View Post
    Thanks for the response. Iv read from both of them links, very helpful which is what helped me reduce my questions down to two. One being the one i asked and the othere being the diameter of the center hub.

    Iv been reading everywhere regarding the brakes we need 68mm for the centre of the brake disk. But when i was looking for wheel spacers i was being told 57.7*mm if the centre bore. I might just take my wheel off and measure it

    Sent from my SM-G988B using Audizine Forum mobile app
    yes bore for the wheel is smaller.

    Disk bore opening for b7 is 68mm.

    ML320 are 67mm



    Volvo procedure is easier because annoying work is : remove 2mm on caliper tab and drill the stud holes

    MB procedure is harder :
    -remove 4mm of the spindle
    - remove dust shield
    - gap the caliper with 2mm washer
    - cut the caliper stud because all kit came with too long studs, unless you select one yourself on a site like mcmaster.


    BUT, I dont know which one , of MB or volvo with be out 1st of rotor production .

    I can easy go back to volvo if Im MB.

    Ill need to space the caliper if I go to MB from volvo.

    Your choice, if I was doing it again : volvo

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    Established Member Two Rings Rayhan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by oVeRdOsE View Post
    yes bore for the wheel is smaller.

    Disk bore opening for b7 is 68mm.

    ML320 are 67mm
    Ahhhh thanks, so they are different sizes. The disk is 68 and wheel is 57.something mm.

    Have a mate with some 19s that he dont mind swapping but need spacers as the wheel rubs on the rear shocks and the arms at the top for the front.

    They are 19s rs looking wheels so not sure the reason behind it not fitting20220418_132658.jpg

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    Veteran Member Four Rings oVeRdOsE's Avatar
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    are you sure they are from a RS? Seems to be from a B8 sline. Both are very similar, not the same specs, and rs4 look a bit more concave.


    Also, you can clearly see on that picture why the wheel hub is 57.7mm, and disk opening is 68 ; disk need to fit over it


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    Established Member Two Rings Rayhan's Avatar
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    I knew my eyes wasnt playing tricks on me, my mate was adament they are from a rs. He had them on his tts 8j and they just didnt look right, but his up for a swap so wont argue as i want 19s over the 18s i have. My 18s look abit more concaved then the 19s you see.

    Might be hard to believe but i work in a garage and for the life of me i never remember anything. Once you start on a car i go by my visuals.

    Are you running the q5 callipers, looks like 4 pots on yours

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    Veteran Member Four Rings oVeRdOsE's Avatar
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    its a random picture.


    Mine are those : 17z + MB ML rotor


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    Established Member Two Rings Rayhan's Avatar
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    Iv read so much about people saying you need to change the MC cylinder/the callipers need to be swaped as in opposing side. The pass 17z on the drivers side and the drivers 17z on the pass side.

    The biggest piston needing to be the one at the top and a few other things. Did you just put yours on making sure the nipple was at the top ofc

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    Veteran Member Four Rings oVeRdOsE's Avatar
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    I don't know if its mandatory, but that how they are installed on the cayenne.

    so yes driver on the cayenne is now passenger on the B7. The bleeder need to be at the top so the air can escape.

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    Veteran Member Four Rings Jayz691's Avatar
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    Ya do wanna swap sides, swapping the crossover tubes. Want the smallest piston on leading edge.

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    Veteran Member Four Rings vvenom800tt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rayhan View Post
    Before everyone goes mad yes i have used the search bar and been looking online.

    Ive got a set of incoming 17z and decided to go with the v70r rotors as id rather drill the lugs out myself then send a set of disks out each time to bore the center of a ML disk. Plus the added benefit of the v70r disk being 32mm

    My question is how much the calliper mounting tabs has to be machined down so disk can sit center.

    Sent from my SM-G988B using Audizine Forum mobile app
    ML320 rotor is better. Like someone else said. I think its 07-08.


    330x32mm

    Only need to drill out the center bore 1mm with a flap disc.

    Then place a washer between the caliper ear and knuckle when mounting and the spacing will be perfectly centered on the rotor.

    You will need to grind or sand a little bit off the face of the knuckle on at the bottom where the disc sits or it will rub. You can do this in 2 minutes with a basic file.

    I've been running this for six or seven years now without any issues.

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    Established Member Two Rings Rayhan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jayz691 View Post
    Ya do wanna swap sides, swapping the crossover tubes. Want the smallest piston on leading edge.

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    What do you mean by leading edge

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    Established Member Two Rings Rayhan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by vvenom800tt View Post
    ML320 rotor is better. Like someone else said. I think its 07-08.


    330x32mm

    Only need to drill out the center bore 1mm with a flap disc.

    Then place a washer between the caliper ear and knuckle when mounting and the spacing will be perfectly centered on the rotor.

    You will need to grind or sand a little bit off the face of the knuckle on at the bottom where the disc sits or it will rub. You can do this in 2 minutes with a basic file.

    I've been running this for six or seven years now without any issues.

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    I thought the ml disks was 330x28 which is why i was going with the volvo ones. I want the option where i wont have to send anything off to the machine shop and which ever will be the cheapest to maintain lol

    But price wise itll prob the same anyway so not really fussed, more focused on what can be done as diy

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    Veteran Member Four Rings oVeRdOsE's Avatar
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    I ve ML320 2008 Power stop rotor and they are 32mm

    https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...=1896&jsn=1481


    the MB C230 sport is 28mm. And the reason why this choice was in the bbk swap how to, is because they are drilled from factory. Since the ML320, would be a ''after market'' option

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    Established Member Two Rings Rayhan's Avatar
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    Im out here in the uk, had enough off shipping stuff from the US. Had a whole load of items from there when i was doing the 2.7 swap, the wait isnt fun lol

    Would these be the discs i want USR1462 from ebc. I like the ebc brand

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    Established Member Two Rings Rayhan's Avatar
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    I still cant find these MB disks that are 330x32/30

    After a good few hours and back and fourth on the phone ive got the part number from:
    eurocar parts- 10422131A
    EBC- URS 1462
    Last edited by Rayhan; 04-24-2022 at 08:25 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by oVeRdOsE View Post
    its a random picture.


    Mine are those : 17z + MB ML rotor

    jesus christ you better have your seat belt on when you stand on the anchors or you are going through the windshild.. lol .
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    Veteran Member Four Rings oVeRdOsE's Avatar
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    do you have any shop around you that can do custom rotors ? we have few here.

    also, expect a bigger project than what forums says. I had my caliper at the scrap yard for 300$ cad, and ended up a 1000$+ project for all the rest.

    I paid around 75$ usd for the rotor shipping. they are heavy







    Quote Originally Posted by Theiceman View Post
    jesus christ you better have your seat belt on when you stand on the anchors or you are going through the windshild.. lol .

    with stock master cylinder and stock ABS control, I didnt see a MAJOR difference. So what B6 user reported too. All that means, is the stock caliper are big enough for a stock b7.

    They are shining on the track, they hold way more heat, but I did track once since I have them, so in my case was a 'car part looks good yolo mod'.

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    Established Member Two Rings Rayhan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Theiceman View Post
    jesus christ you better have your seat belt on when you stand on the anchors or you are going through the windshild.. lol .
    I cant stop laughing funniest thing ive heard all day loool.

    But iv been staring at the picture and showing some of my mates, sexy looking set up and good photography

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    Established Member Two Rings Rayhan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by oVeRdOsE View Post
    do you have any shop around you that can do custom rotors ? we have few here.

    also, expect a bigger project than what forums says. I had my caliper at the scrap yard for 300$ cad, and ended up a 1000$+ project for all the rest.

    I paid around 75$ usd for the rotor shipping. they are heavy










    with stock master cylinder and stock ABS control, I didnt see a MAJOR difference. So what B6 user reported too. All that means, is the stock caliper are big enough for a stock b7.

    They are shining on the track, they hold way more heat, but I did track once since I have them, so in my case was a 'car part looks good yolo mod'.
    Unfortunately not much out here in the uk, or they just dont advertise and only cater to champion shops and race companies.

    I was just on the phone to EBC and theres not many disc options for the ML320 from them. But the merc disk are seeming like the easiest and safest route to take. Dont fancy shaving the caliper.


    Your saying Ł1000+ ragarding the parts right? Not sure why people are saying dont take the forums literal, but thats all ive been reading is that it will be around the Ł1000 mark which seems about right

    Calipers Ł300*
    ML320 Disc Ł244.56
    EBC pads Ł175
    Sensor Ł5*
    Mounting hardware Ł45*
    Rs4 brake lines Ł***

    What else would i be needing to fit, that should be all the items right? Regarding fluid and tools i have access to that at work.

    So dont worry about the MC or anything, ddnt quite understand that part sorry.

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    Veteran Member Four Rings oVeRdOsE's Avatar
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    you might want to add :

    - caliper refresh kit : valves + seals + crosstube (good luck to find stainless valves)
    - DOT4 oil
    - caliper paint and sticker (I did a DIY with VHT paint, I did not go to a powdercoat shop, which will adds up $$)
    - 4 washer for the 2mm spacing ( almost 0$, but you have to source it)
    - add all the tools if you dont have it : grinder disk for the spindle, sand flap disk.

  27. #27
    Established Member Two Rings Rayhan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by oVeRdOsE View Post
    you might want to add :

    - caliper refresh kit : valves + seals + crosstube (good luck to find stainless valves)
    - DOT4 oil
    - caliper paint and sticker (I did a DIY with VHT paint, I did not go to a powdercoat shop, which will adds up $$)
    - 4 washer for the 2mm spacing ( almost 0$, but you have to source it)
    - add all the tools if you dont have it : grinder disk for the spindle, sand flap disk.
    Im going to send mine off to get a refresh and poweder coat which is also Ł300. Which isnt bad, what are the valves you talk about? The bleed valves or....

    So using the ML320 disk the caliper has to be spaced out 2mm which is 4 washers ? I was thinking of just buying the vosh mods kit, which is also available on ebay

    And i have my own tools regarding hand tools, also access to pretty much everything else working at a garage.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Theiceman View Post
    jesus christ you better have your seat belt on when you stand on the anchors or you are going through the windshild.. lol .
    I was told that BBK are a waste of $$$$, they dont improve stopping distance or braking power from the stock brake on the car now . whats the opinion's out there
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  29. #29
    Established Member Two Rings Rayhan's Avatar
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    Well lets not start that conversation here lol, but tbh the stock s4 breaks i have with a good set of discs and pad are really good as i have felt them in my mates a4 with a 2.7, simillar set up as mine.

    The reason im doing this, because it looks mean as hell in my eyes. I find it easier to change these pads then f*** around with that stupid retaining clip, other cars the clip aint so bad but it pisses the hell out of me. Also im going for bigger wheels and wanted to fill the gap.

    Right now i just put in some seat belts as the tensioner went on both? Went to clear the light and the oil pressure light came on. Depression hitting hard as my last engine is garbage as the same thing happened to that and the bearings cylinder walls and basically everything was scored

    Update::]
    Oil pressure seemed to have been a gremlin, maybe because i left the car running while erasing the fault codes for the air bag. Drove the car and no oil pressure light, big relief. How ever the pass belt tensioner has cleard but not the drivers side. Anyway this thread is about the breaks.....
    Last edited by Rayhan; 04-25-2022 at 01:24 PM.

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    I a RS4 BBK because my friend was parting 1 out


    everything was bolt on city...no mods needed....lol
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  31. #31
    Veteran Member Four Rings drewgold's Avatar
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    No love for the 345mm Brembo Q5/Porsche calipers? By far the best option imho. Direct bolt on, no modifications required, just need appropriate brake lines and S4 rotors and you’re off to the races!




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  32. #32
    Veteran Member Four Rings oVeRdOsE's Avatar
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    As per many user said, caliper upgrade wont bring you better performance in daily driving.

    you do it for look , track or maintenance purpose (oem caliper end of life)


    imo options for daily are :

    1- High quality disk and pad
    2- Q5 4 piston ( https://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...ild-BBK-thread)
    3- S4 B7 carrier to fit bigger rotors
    4 - something else
    5 - 17z-18Z or rs4
    6- 19z


    the how-to for MB ML320 rotor is almost non-existent, and based my choice on vvennom comment on the B6 thread. But it is NOT easy and sweet and fast has it looks. Took me about 5h on driver side ( learning side) and 2 h on the passenger. I did not count the paint in that process.

    -trying to fit the rotor with dust shield make me waste a ton of time. wasnt clear if it was doable
    - grinding down the spindle did not have a thickness req. So trial and fitting error. ended up that the clearance was 2mm shy, but on the road on a tight turn, disk was touching the spindle. I had to remove everything.
    - voshmod stud kit is too long for ML320 disk setup. Had to grind down all 4 studs.
    - 2mm spacer washer is not in the voshmod kit. Had to mod one, open the hole more, since I could find a 2mm with the correct hole.

    THE ONLY clear direction, was to open ML320 disk bore, and this was the easiest thing, flap disk for 3 min, and done.

    so yeah, this is not a 30 min job sorry, and surely not a 300$ job.

    nothing hard, just time consuming.

    of course, redoing it would cut my time in half, somewhere 1.5, to 2h per side.
    Last edited by oVeRdOsE; 04-26-2022 at 06:31 AM.

  33. #33
    Veteran Member Four Rings Jayz691's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by drewgold View Post
    No love for the 345mm Brembo Q5/Porsche calipers? By far the best option imho. Direct bolt on, no modifications required, just need appropriate brake lines and S4 rotors and you’re off to the races!




    Thats why I went that route, simple and effective. Ive had to stand on my brakes a few times when they were stock, they weren't great... Much better now. So idk, I def feel improvement. But also much nicer than painted stock calipers. Paired with s4 rears.0409221912~2.jpg0324191502.jpg

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  34. #34
    Veteran Member Four Rings vvenom800tt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by oVeRdOsE View Post
    you might want to add :

    - caliper refresh kit : valves + seals + crosstube (good luck to find stainless valves)
    - DOT4 oil
    - caliper paint and sticker (I did a DIY with VHT paint, I did not go to a powdercoat shop, which will adds up $$)
    - 4 washer for the 2mm spacing ( almost 0$, but you have to source it)
    - add all the tools if you dont have it : grinder disk for the spindle, sand flap disk.
    I found titanium valves on ebay. Came from the uk.

    I have then ready to go for my rear 4 piston kit. I should get some for the front though.

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  35. #35
    Veteran Member Four Rings vvenom800tt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by oVeRdOsE View Post
    As per many user said, caliper upgrade wont bring you better performance in daily driving.

    you do it for look , track or maintenance purpose (oem caliper end of life)


    imo options for daily are :

    1- High quality disk and pad
    2- Q5 4 piston ( https://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...ild-BBK-thread)
    3- S4 B7 carrier to fit bigger rotors
    4 - something else
    5 - 17z-18Z or rs4
    6- 19z


    the how-to for MB ML320 rotor is almost non-existent, and based my choice on vvennom comment on the B6 thread. But it is NOT easy and sweet and fast has it looks. Took me about 5h on driver side ( learning side) and 2 h on the passenger. I did not count the paint in that process.

    -trying to fit the rotor with dust shield make me waste a ton of time. wasnt clear if it was doable
    - grinding down the spindle did not have a thickness req. So trial and fitting error. ended up that the clearance was 2mm shy, but on the road on a tight turn, disk was touching the spindle. I had to remove everything.
    - voshmod stud kit is too long for ML320 disk setup. Had to grind down all 4 studs.
    - 2mm spacer washer is not in the voshmod kit. Had to mod one, open the hole more, since I could find a 2mm with the correct hole.

    THE ONLY clear direction, was to open ML320 disk bore, and this was the easiest thing, flap disk for 3 min, and done.

    so yeah, this is not a 30 min job sorry, and surely not a 300$ job.

    nothing hard, just time consuming.

    of course, redoing it would cut my time in half, somewhere 1.5, to 2h per side.
    Doing this mod definitely requires you to be fairly mechanically inclined. And you need to have a decent amount of tools.

    I was an automotive tech for a few years so i might have a small advantage. But im still learning stuff all the time.

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  36. #36
    Veteran Member Four Rings vvenom800tt's Avatar
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    This was mine the day i installed it.

    Im not running the dust shields at all.FB_IMG_1539311255777.jpg

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  37. #37
    Veteran Member Four Rings oVeRdOsE's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by vvenom800tt View Post
    Doing this mod definitely requires you to be fairly mechanically inclined. And you need to have a decent amount of tools.

    I was an automotive tech for a few years so i might have a small advantage. But im still learning stuff all the time.

    Sent from my SM-S901U using Audizine Forum mobile app
    I have a lift and ton of tools, I did 3 swap already, 2 clutch jobs, exhaust, many sound systems mods, welding, etc. My cars never go to a indy, but for specialize stuff : a/c fill, alignment, full paint.

    that mod required almost no tools

    what I was saying, is there was no dimensions : i.e.
    - how much to remove from the spindle. cost me time to remove all my setup 2 times
    - nothing about the dust-shield, try and error is a big waste of time
    - voshmod kit is for V-S60-70r rotors, not a huge job, but you have to setup your bench to cut all 4 studs.

    If everything was written well as the V70r rotor, I would take me way less time, and probably go to V70 right away

  38. #38
    Established Member Two Rings Rayhan's Avatar
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    Same here, i work in a garage so have my own tools, and an array of tools af work. But like everyone else there is alot too learn. Not too worried about the swap as comparing to to doing a engine swap this is still bolt on for me. I was more focused on what parts will be needed. Everything is here apart from the ebc discs as they are on back order fro about 6-8 weeks and the fitting kit. Imactually just thinking of tapping the spindle so i dont have to use a nut and bolt, just a bolt but will check if its possible when the time comes to fitting.

    Before all of that though i have a clutch, engine mounts, gearbox mount, subfram bushes, power steering rack and something else to fit. Will remember when all the parts arrive lol20220426_175132.jpg20220426_175113.jpgIMG-20210502-WA0023.jpgIMG-20210502-WA0024.jpg

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  39. #39
    Established Member Two Rings Rayhan's Avatar
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    Well after ages i decided to do a follow up, these are the only pictures i have or have found. Dont ask why there is a nice ring around the disc, seems fine done 500 miles on them so far.

    This is no guide but some people didn't have to grind theyre spindle down, i ended up using ml discs so not sure if thats why i had too, finding a spacer that would offset the calliper to have the disc centre was a task. IMG_20230701_104321_954.jpgIMG-20230630-WA0000.jpgIMG-20231203-WA0006.jpg20230411_185440.jpg20230411_185402.jpg

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  40. #40
    Veteran Member Four Rings oVeRdOsE's Avatar
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    some people dont have to grind the spindle because they are using v70 rotor.

    ML you definitively need to grind, unless you have used a other year of ML and you're super lucky and it fits.

    Good job ! looks good.

    Still running mine, no issue but I had loose caliper. Both side, 2 times. 1st time I added blue locktite, then it came loose, and the 2nd time, fck it, shit ton of red locktite.

    The voshmod kit came with teflon nuts, and it probably fail under heat.




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