S7 & Chinese Supplied RS7 Turbo Upgrade

[RAF_S7]

Hi Everyone,

It’s been a while since I posted here, mainly because I’d pretty much done everything I’d wanted to my S7 - Except for upgrading the turbo!

So here I am, after 6 years and 70k miles of ownership, and now I’m going to upgrade them

[Note I’m not looking for a debate on the pros and cons of Chinese sourced units ]

Ordered some eBay turbos a few weeks ago, and they arrived today. Look quality units - ball bearings and billet wheels

Two questions to those of you who have been down this path previously….

1. The turbos that arrived today and look fine, however arrived without any bolts to secure the turbo cartridge to the compressor housing. Does anyone know what size these bolts are, or are you expected to use the ones from the original S7 housings?

2. Do I need to replace the S7 turbo intake pipes with the RS7 ones, or can I use the original S7 ones. The part number and size of the o-rings is the same for the S and RS pipes, so I’m not sure if they are interchangeable

My S7 is my daily driver, so want to ensure I have everything on hand once I start the swap.

Cheers,
John.

[THCarpenter]

IIRC its a V-Band Clamp for the compressor to housing

the RS7 inlets will flow more than the S6/S7 inlets....or you should look at going up to the ECS inlets if you are not upgrading to the long tubes from SRM or FP

inlet discussion
https://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...-Intake-Inlets

installing turbos
https://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...=turbo+install
https://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...=oil+separator

[massboykie]

Ordered some eBay turbos a few weeks ago, and they arrived today. Look quality units - ball bearings and billet wheels

Hey John

Did you buy just the CHRAs? If so, I would make sure the new compressor wheels are the same size as stock. I have been eyeing out the ball bearing ones myself, but they all had compressor housings included so you will only need to remove and reuse the compressor clamp. I think the compressor wheels are larger on the ball bearing ones.. well the ones I was looking at.

On another note... Did your CHRAs come with a pressure reducing fitting of some kind on the oil line? A few years ago I was looking at using a Garret ball bearing turbo on the B7 2.0 but heard you had to be careful with the oil pressure reducer on the oil line as normal oil pressure will blow the bearing seals. Just wondering if you heard about that and if it even still applies? Maybe other gurus can confirm? ;-)

Cheers
Massboykie

[skiptowncat]

1) I reused the bolts
2) Get the SRM long tube intakes

Get DS1 and stage 3 tune

[RAF_S7]

Thanks for the replies guys.

SRM long intakes, no - I have the Eventuri CF CAI fitted, so would consider the SRM shorts as I'd like to keep that - though I'm in UK, so shipping and import charges are a nightmare lol.

The cartridge and the compressor housing were both supplied by the seller (Costel Turbos). The v-clamp was supplied, just not the retaining bolts for the cartridge, which I was surprised about. The actual cartridges appear to be larger than the OEM ones.

Oil line pressure? I don't believe there is any pressure reducer - at least that I can see. Wasn't aware that oil pressure could be an issue (other than lack of due to starvation!) so I'll have a look online for more info.

I've sent the compressor housings to my local powdercoat guy. Who knew choosing an under the hood colour scheme would be so difficult :-p

John.

[massboykie]

Oil line pressure? I don't believe there is any pressure reducer - at least that I can see. Wasn't aware that oil pressure could be an issue (other than lack of due to starvation!) so I'll have a look online for more info.

Yeah I believe it has something to do with the ball bearing turbos needing a lot less oil for cooling or something like that. Again, that was a while back so may no longer be relevant. If I remember correctly the pressure reducer was literally just a fitting that screwed into the same oil port but had a much smaller internal feeding hole… if that makes any sense.

But would be good to confirm if it can affect the new cartridge ;-)

Cheers
Massboykie

[THCarpenter]

SRM long intakes, no - I have the Eventuri CF CAI fitted, so would consider the SRM shorts as I'd like to keep that - though I'm in UK, so shipping and import charges are a nightmare lol.

John

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-ecs-part...a~dk/?pdk=AgEJ

select the OE Hoses, and this might be a better option for you

[kaploww]

1) Ball Bearing Turbos and oil.

You will only need to install a restrictor, if after installation you notice blue smoke coming out the exhaust.

This indicates the bearing cartridge of the turbo is filling with oil faster than it is capable of draining, and oil pushes past the bearing seal, and into the exhaust.

Ball bearing turbos do in fact need less oil to survive.

On the snowmobile turbo kits I've built. I use a ball bearing turbo. I literally cap the oil drain, and utilize the factory oil pump on the sled to drip oil into the turbocharger oil inlet. The sleds I build are two stroke, so a little blue smoke coming out the exhaust is a nonfactor.

With that said, bolt them up and run them. I'm sure they'll run fine.

2) When you say bolts for the compressor housing.

Are you literally talking about the compressor housing bolts? Or, the V-band flange that mounts the CHRA and Compressor housing to the turbine housing?

If it's the compressor housing bolts

You should be able to take the compressor housing into home depot, lowes, or an Ace Hardware and find some adequate bolts. The factory bolts are pretty unique in that they have both a torqx and hex bit head. They also have a washer on them to help secure the compressor housing to the backing plate, and distribute the load to prevent cracking of the backing plate. A standard hex head should work just fine, or reuse the old bolts.

While I haven't clocked the compressor housings on the 4.0t, I have clocked more compressor housings than I can count in numerous other turbo projects/builds.

My general procedure.

Bring the bolts down in a crisscross pattern to ensure nothing gets slightly off center or distorted when tightening the compressor housing in place.

Also ensure the compressor housings are clocked correctly so the intake tubes meet up with the compressor housing after install. There is a small locating pin on the turbine housing to aid in installation as a reference point for center to get you in the ballpark.

Get the compressor housings roughly into position. Tighten them up just enough so the compressor housing is flush with the seat, but can still rotate for clocking purposes.

Install the CHRA into the turbine housing.

Finalize the clocking of the compressor housings.

Tighten up the top bolt to ensure the compressor housing doesn't move when removed.

Make three small marks on the compressor housing and backing plate to ensure the backing plate lines up. I usually use three dots on the compressor housing that corresponds to three dots on the backing plate.

Remove the CHRA.

You're also going to want to add a small amount of RTV sealant to the backing plate where the compressor housing mates to the backing plate. Think slightly thicker than a thin film. 1-1.5mm thick, maybe 2mm thick.

Apply your sealant.

Reinstall the compressor cover.

Line up your dots.

Do a final torque of the compressor housing to the backing plate.

Done.

3) You can use the S7 pipes, the RS7 pipes, or an aftermarket intake of your choice.

Realistically the intake doesn't make that much of a difference, unless you are REALLY pushing the car with custom tuning.

The ECS shorty intake looks like a smoking deal, and with it being about the cost of a used set of OEM RS7 inlets, that's the direction I would probably lean if you're set on an aftermarket intake.

4) Lastly, whileOTS maps may work for your setup, I would probably talk to someone about custom tuning to really take advantage of the hardware, and ensure everything is working appropriately.

The other thing to consider is an aftermarket TCU tune that will provide more than the 16 bar of clamping force that the APR TCU tune supplies.

It works pretty dang well on stock hardware, but once you really start cranking the torque out like these ball bearing units do, you're going to start to slip the clutches. Additional clamping force will help *prevent* that.

Ideally having an ECU and TCU tune from the same tuner would be the best course of action. The two tunes need to be in sync and communicating the same data to one another.

This platform responds really well when everything is in sync.

[RAF_S7]

John

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-ecs-part...a~dk/?pdk=AgEJ

select the OE Hoses, and this might be a better option for you

ECS intake pipes ordered!

Thanks for the recommendation

[RAF_S7]

1) Ball Bearing Turbos and oil.

You will only need to install a restrictor, if after installation you notice blue smoke coming out the exhaust.

This indicates the bearing cartridge of the turbo is filling with oil faster than it is capable of draining, and oil pushes past the bearing seal, and into the exhaust.

Ball bearing turbos do in fact need less oil to survive.

On the snowmobile turbo kits I've built. I use a ball bearing turbo. I literally cap the oil drain, and utilize the factory oil pump on the sled to drip oil into the turbocharger oil inlet. The sleds I build are two stroke, so a little blue smoke coming out the exhaust is a nonfactor.

With that said, bolt them up and run them. I'm sure they'll run fine.

2) When you say bolts for the compressor housing.

Are you literally talking about the compressor housing bolts? Or, the V-band flange that mounts the CHRA and Compressor housing to the turbine housing?

If it's the compressor housing bolts

You should be able to take the compressor housing into home depot, lowes, or an Ace Hardware and find some adequate bolts. The factory bolts are pretty unique in that they have both a torqx and hex bit head. They also have a washer on them to help secure the compressor housing to the backing plate, and distribute the load to prevent cracking of the backing plate. A standard hex head should work just fine, or reuse the old bolts.

While I haven't clocked the compressor housings on the 4.0t, I have clocked more compressor housings than I can count in numerous other turbo projects/builds.

My general procedure.

Bring the bolts down in a crisscross pattern to ensure nothing gets slightly off center or distorted when tightening the compressor housing in place.

Also ensure the compressor housings are clocked correctly so the intake tubes meet up with the compressor housing after install. There is a small locating pin on the turbine housing to aid in installation as a reference point for center to get you in the ballpark.

Get the compressor housings roughly into position. Tighten them up just enough so the compressor housing is flush with the seat, but can still rotate for clocking purposes.

Install the CHRA into the turbine housing.

Finalize the clocking of the compressor housings.

Tighten up the top bolt to ensure the compressor housing doesn't move when removed.

Make three small marks on the compressor housing and backing plate to ensure the backing plate lines up. I usually use three dots on the compressor housing that corresponds to three dots on the backing plate.

Remove the CHRA.

You're also going to want to add a small amount of RTV sealant to the backing plate where the compressor housing mates to the backing plate. Think slightly thicker than a thin film. 1-1.5mm thick, maybe 2mm thick.

Apply your sealant.

Reinstall the compressor cover.

Line up your dots.

Do a final torque of the compressor housing to the backing plate.

Done.

3) You can use the S7 pipes, the RS7 pipes, or an aftermarket intake of your choice.

Realistically the intake doesn't make that much of a difference, unless you are REALLY pushing the car with custom tuning.

The ECS shorty intake looks like a smoking deal, and with it being about the cost of a used set of OEM RS7 inlets, that's the direction I would probably lean if you're set on an aftermarket intake.

4) Lastly, whileOTS maps may work for your setup, I would probably talk to someone about custom tuning to really take advantage of the hardware, and ensure everything is working appropriately.

The other thing to consider is an aftermarket TCU tune that will provide more than the 16 bar of clamping force that the APR TCU tune supplies.

It works pretty dang well on stock hardware, but once you really start cranking the torque out like these ball bearing units do, you're going to start to slip the clutches. Additional clamping force will help *prevent* that.

Ideally having an ECU and TCU tune from the same tuner would be the best course of action. The two tunes need to be in sync and communicating the same data to one another.

This platform responds really well when everything is in sync.

Thanks for post, some good info there.

VBand was supplied, it’s the 5 bolts that secure the CHRA into the compressor housing that are missing

I’m in UK, but we have equivalent DIY sheds. If you know the bolt sizes, I may try and order some quality ones from a specialist.

I’m aware of the clocking issue needed to alight the intake pipes, but thanks for the how to guide, very useful.

I’ve actually ordered the ECS pipes They won’t ship until end of May though.

I’m currently running APR Stage 1 + TCU tune. Been flawless since installed (4yrs plus now) and my local Indy that I use is an APR dealer, so will likely stick with them, at least for now.

I’m not tracking or looking for sub 10 numbers, just want a bit more fun out of it

Do I have to think about additional cooling straight off, or something to be considered if it starts misbehaving?

Cheers,
John.

[kaploww]

Sticking with APR ECU software with a Turbo upgrade really won’t net you any power.

It will run, drive, behave, and make the same power as it does now.

The MED 17.1.1 ECU operates off of a torque model.

If the ECU doesn’t request more torque, the car will only deliver what is requested.

APR’s torque request is built around the limitation of the factory turbos.

The ECU will limit hardware in the exact same way it can augment hardware.

The other issue is, there is a slight chance (I have seen it) where the spool characteristics of the upgraded turbos are so different from the stock turbos that you can get underboost codes (turbo spools too slow for the expected torque request at a given RPM) or, Overboost codes. (where the turbo spools too fast for the PID loop in the boost controller to compensate).

These codes will also set CEL’s, and I think one of them can set an EPC if I remember correctly. (It’s been awhile since I ran into, or caused an issue like that while writing a file.)

These situations cause the ECU to shut the throttle mid pull which can result in some pretty nasty bucking, or complete loss of power mid pull at very unexpected times.

Any time you change hardware, your file should be looked at and adjusted appropriately.

APR makes a great OTS product for very clearly defined setups.

The issue is, once you deviate from that setup, you’re running a file that is not designed for your hardware, and things can get wonky.

Just so we’re clear, I don’t write software for other people, I’m not involved in this business in any way shape or form anymore.

Just here to share knowledge.

[RAF_S7]

Sticking with APR ECU software with a Turbo upgrade really won’t net you any power.

It will run, drive, behave, and make the same power as it does now.

The MED 17.1.1 ECU operates off of a torque model.

If the ECU doesn’t request more torque, the car will only deliver what is requested.

APR’s torque request is built around the limitation of the factory turbos.

The ECU will limit hardware in the exact same way it can augment hardware.

The other issue is, there is a slight chance (I have seen it) where the spool characteristics of the upgraded turbos are so different from the stock turbos that you can get underboost codes (turbo spools too slow for the expected torque request at a given RPM) or, Overboost codes. (where the turbo spools too fast for the PID loop in the boost controller to compensate).

These codes will also set CEL’s, and I think one of them can set an EPC if I remember correctly. (It’s been awhile since I ran into, or caused an issue like that while writing a file.)

These situations cause the ECU to shut the throttle mid pull which can result in some pretty nasty bucking, or complete loss of power mid pull at very unexpected times.

Any time you change hardware, your file should be looked at and adjusted appropriately.

APR makes a great OTS product for very clearly defined setups.

The issue is, once you deviate from that setup, you’re running a file that is not designed for your hardware, and things can get wonky.

Just so we’re clear, I don’t write software for other people, I’m not involved in this business in any way shape or form anymore.

Just here to share knowledge.

Thanks for the info, definitely something to keep in mind

[KenworthT680]

Sticking with APR ECU software with a Turbo upgrade really won’t net you any power.

It will run, drive, behave, and make the same power as it does now.

The MED 17.1.1 ECU operates off of a torque model.

If the ECU doesn’t request more torque, the car will only deliver what is requested.

APR’s torque request is built around the limitation of the factory turbos.

The ECU will limit hardware in the exact same way it can augment hardware.

The other issue is, there is a slight chance (I have seen it) where the spool characteristics of the upgraded turbos are so different from the stock turbos that you can get underboost codes (turbo spools too slow for the expected torque request at a given RPM) or, Overboost codes. (where the turbo spools too fast for the PID loop in the boost controller to compensate).

These codes will also set CEL’s, and I think one of them can set an EPC if I remember correctly. (It’s been awhile since I ran into, or caused an issue like that while writing a file.)

These situations cause the ECU to shut the throttle mid pull which can result in some pretty nasty bucking, or complete loss of power mid pull at very unexpected times.

Any time you change hardware, your file should be looked at and adjusted appropriately.

APR makes a great OTS product for very clearly defined setups.

The issue is, once you deviate from that setup, you’re running a file that is not designed for your hardware, and things can get wonky.

Just so we’re clear, I don’t write software for other people, I’m not involved in this business in any way shape or form anymore.

Just here to share knowledge.

If I read and understand this correctly, the OP should move up to the APR Stage 3 File, right? Thanks for the info.....

[kaploww]

Depends…

If the turbos support more than the stage 3 file can deliver, or operate outside parameters the APR stage 3 file is expecting, even then the file may not work correctly.

The stage three file was written for RS7 turbos, and downpipes.

Your software should support your hardware.

Canned OTS files work great in conjunction with the specified hardware.

As soon as you change the hardware from the specified components, all bets are off.

At a minimum you will be leaving power on the table (most likely), and worst case you can end up with CEL’s or EPC’s if the the hardware deviates too much from expected.

Tuning these cars isn’t like tuning an LS, an Evo, a standalone unit, a Supra, or really anything other than a load/torque/hardware modeled ECU.

It’s pretty nuts how well you can dial these things in.

But… they have to be told what “right” looks like, what “wrong” looks like, what to expect, how much to expect, and when to expect it. They can pretty much sort out the rest from there.

[kaploww]

The biggest concern I have is for the OP’s clutches.

The ball bearing turbos are gonna come in hard down low and ramp the torque in hard.

I have seen similarly sized ball bearing units annihilate stock clutches.

[RAF_S7]

The biggest concern I have is for the OP’s clutches.

The ball bearing turbos are gonna come in hard down low and ramp the torque in hard.

I have seen similarly sized ball bearing units annihilate stock clutches.

Thanks for the warning

Im not looking to race, track or perform 1/4 Mile runs in it, so don't intend to dial the pressure all the way up.

The local shop who looks after me is tuning RS, BMW, Porsche and Lamborghini's and has a well established business and client base, so Im confident of his abilities to dial in whats needed.

Thanks,
John.

[RAF_S7]

Hey guys,

So here are a couple of pictures of the Costel Turbos that I received via their eBay shop.

The quality of the parts looks fine, and they have a good coating in protective oil




Other then the cartridges and compressor housing, I also received the clamps to secure the units to the exhaust snails.

No bolts to secure the cartridges to the housing were supplied (trial and error tell me these are M5 10mm bolts + washer - Does anyone know what these should be torqued to?)

My other question is whether there should be a (large) o-ring fitted between the compressor housing and the cartridge. There was none supplied

Cheers,
John.

[kaploww]

No O-Rings.

Like I mentioned above.

Throw a little RTV silicone around the edge of the compressor housing.

[RAF_S7]

No O-Rings.

Like I mentioned above.

Throw a little RTV silicone around the edge of the compressor housing.

Thanks

[skiptowncat]

Who’s doing the tuning?

[RAF_S7]

Who’s doing the tuning?

I’ve had APR Stage 1 + TCU tune for a few years now, and my local Indy is an established APR tuner.

I was considering going Stage 3 with APR, but a few people have expressed the concern that APR S3 may not be up to the job.

I’m not looking for out and out max power, just a bit more fun. I’m in UK, so 4.0t tuning is quite limited…..

[MattyMarkey]

I’ve had APR Stage 1 + TCU tune for a few years now, and my local Indy is an established APR tuner.

I was considering going Stage 3 with APR, but a few people have expressed the concern that APR S3 may not be up to the job.

I’m not looking for out and out max power, just a bit more fun. I’m in UK, so 4.0t tuning is quite limited…..

This likely goes without saying, but you don't need a custom tune with your set-up. There is the option of DS1, which is also founded and supported on your side of the pond

Sticking with APR ECU software with a Turbo upgrade really won’t net you any power.

Your buddy proskier/jack/Marc may beg to differ on this statement, since all he runs is an OTS APR tune with RS7 turbos, stock cooling, blah blah blah, we know the deal, runs 9s... shocking you both don't agree on this one, I wonder why lol

[skiptowncat]

I’ve had APR Stage 1 + TCU tune for a few years now, and my local Indy is an established APR tuner.

I was considering going Stage 3 with APR, but a few people have expressed the concern that APR S3 may not be up to the job.

I’m not looking for out and out max power, just a bit more fun. I’m in UK, so 4.0t tuning is quite limited…..

I’m also in the UK, I highly recommend getting the DS1 and going stage 3.

[RAF_S7]

I’m also in the UK, I highly recommend getting the DS1 and going stage 3.

Did you use a tuner, or was everything done remotely?

Cheers,
John.

[RAF_S7]

This likely goes without saying, but you don't need a custom tune with your set-up. There is the option of DS1, which is also founded and supported on your side of the pond

That’s good to know

Cheers.

[kaploww]

This likely goes without saying, but you don't need a custom tune with your set-up. There is the option of DS1, which is also founded and supported on your side of the pond



Your buddy proskier/jack/Marc may beg to differ on this statement, since all he runs is an OTS APR tune with RS7 turbos, stock cooling, blah blah blah, we know the deal, runs 9s... shocking you both don't agree on this one, I wonder why lol

Remember that time you were poking fun at the guy who literally developed the DL501 TCU software that’s running on your car?

Pepperidge Farms remembers. lol.

Marc makes cars go quick. Always has, probably always will. I don’t agree with him on a lot of things, but that doesn’t mean I don’t respect what he’s done with the platform, and his chosen hardware/software combo.

[skiptowncat]

Did you use a tuner, or was everything done remotely?

Cheers,
John.

Flashed stage 3 myself and then made a few adjustments myself. I used to write custom files on the Mazda mps scene so I’m not new to remapping. The stage 3 out of the box is absolutely awesome though but I Do like to tinker. I’m considering getting WMI and adding some more power soon.

[MattyMarkey]

Remember that time you were poking fun at the guy who literally developed the DL501 TCU software that’s running on your car?

Pepperidge Farms remembers. lol.

Marc makes cars go quick. Always has, probably always will. I don’t agree with him on a lot of things, but that doesn’t mean I don’t respect what he’s done with the platform, and his chosen hardware/software combo.

Haha this might’ve been your best line yet. Touché.

Remember that time when both John and Jack dance around the hard hitting statements/questions… Orville Redenbacher does… Daily occurrence lol.

If I may interpret what you’re saying a bit: Glad this one statement of yours agrees with the masses when someone says they can run 9s on a OTS stage 3 APR tune… blimey


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[RAF_S7]

Flashed stage 3 myself and then made a few adjustments myself. I used to write custom files on the Mazda mps scene so I’m not new to remapping. The stage 3 out of the box is absolutely awesome though but I Do like to tinker. I’m considering getting WMI and adding some more power soon.

Always good to have other options

[Jiaim]

Hello, are the mentionned turbos these, so they told you they are ball bearing ? Compressors looks interesting !

Can you mesure the inducer and exducer size on them ?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/22430069598....c100667.m2042

The other ebay turbos looks good too.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/15480056560....c100667.m2042

[kaploww]

Haha this might’ve been your best line yet. Touché.

Remember that time when both John and Jack dance around the hard hitting statements/questions… Orville Redenbacher does… Daily occurrence lol.

If I may interpret what you’re saying a bit: Glad this one statement of yours agrees with the masses when someone says they can run 9s on a OTS stage 3 APR tune… blimey


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The man posted a video of him making a 9 second pass.

Who am I to argue with that?

It’s pretty damned impressive.

Like I said before, Marc/Jack has always made cars go quick. He has always been very good at squeezing ever last bit of speed/acceleration out of the platforms he plays with.

His online persona is a bit abrasive, but when you talk to him IRL, or via phone/video chat, he’s a pretty nice guy.

I am a big fan of the DS1, however, the stage 3 file was not designed with this specific turbo in mind.

While it may work, and deliver decent results.

Data logging, and a few tweaks may be needed in order to ensure safety.

Any file you run should be developed for the specific hardware you install.

Your hardware is the meat and potatoes of the operation.

Your engine is an expensive piece of equipment. Having someone take a look at your data logs *who is experienced with the platform* is a good idea when your hardware deviates from what is specified for the software you’re running.

I by no means am saying the DS1 is a bad product. I’m just a fan of the measure twice, cut once approach to handling things.

There is a reason I learned to tune my own cars. OTS maps cost me two motors back when I was running a VR6 turbo.

After that, I learned to do it myself.

There’s 20 years worth of engine building, tuning, and turbo knowledge rattling around in my head from a very wide range of platforms.

Just so we’re clear *I AM NOT SAYING* a stage 3 OTS map will cause engine damage from DS1 or APR. Both make very high quality software that employ adequate safety margins.

What I am saying is when you deviate from specified hardware for a given piece of software, get it looked at to make sure it’s running properly.

There are literally hardware models in the software, compressor maps, turbine maps, expected exhaust resistance from catalytic converters, expected air flow resistance from a given intake.

When all those things line up, the car is happy. When they don’t, it can run less than optimal.

[ericw.]

Didn't Marc/Jack get caught hiding a nos kit in his b5 s4 to make similar records while claiming it was stock?
...Someone recognized him from his old youtube videos.

[kaploww]

It wouldn’t surprise me if he did.

I’ve also seen some things he’s been accused of that he for sure didn’t do, specifically with the 4.0t platform.

There’s a lot of haters out there.

The German car communities are kinda funny that way.

You see it a little bit in the JDM world, but it’s nearly non-existent on the Domestic side of the house.

The LS community is one of the best ones I’ve been a part of. Everyone is so helpful, open minded, and supportive.

For the most part, in the LS community, everyone just likes to see fast cars, wild builds, cheap builds, and everyone shares in the success and failures gleaned from those builds.

SloppyMechanics on YouTube is one of the funniest channels. Matt Happel, AKA Denmah, is a fantastic example of someone trying wild shit, and having fun.

He’s an outside the box thinker who chose a different path than your run of the mill builds.

He got a little of hate initially from close minded people, but then he started sending some ridiculous builds ridiculously fast.

Sharing knowledge, attempting new things, failing, and success in those attempts is what advances the platform.

It would be nice if that was the experience here.

[ericw.]

I think the hate he got in the past was because he was dishonest about his build, saying his car was mostly stock with a full interior when it wasn't. Leading others on a dead end path with their build.

The hate wasn't because he was pushing the platform or going fast. Like claiming a turbo swapped car with fuel system upgrades to run ethanol is "stock" is similarly dishonest.

Sounds increasingly similar to the situation today.

Sent from my SM-G986U1 using Tapatalk

[MattyMarkey]

The man posted a video of him making a 9 second pass.

Who am I to argue with that?

It’s pretty damned impressive.

Like I said before, Marc/Jack has always made cars go quick. He has always been very good at squeezing ever last bit of speed/acceleration out of the platforms he plays with.

His online persona is a bit abrasive, but when you talk to him IRL, or via phone/video chat, he’s a pretty nice guy.

I am a big fan of the DS1, however, the stage 3 file was not designed with this specific turbo in mind.

While it may work, and deliver decent results.

Data logging, and a few tweaks may be needed in order to ensure safety.

Any file you run should be developed for the specific hardware you install.

Your hardware is the meat and potatoes of the operation.

Your engine is an expensive piece of equipment. Having someone take a look at your data logs *who is experienced with the platform* is a good idea when your hardware deviates from what is specified for the software you’re running.

I by no means am saying the DS1 is a bad product. I’m just a fan of the measure twice, cut once approach to handling things.

Certainly agree, that a custom tune is always better if you want your upgraded car to run at peak/optimal performance. For the OP, that is certainly his own choice and not needed to run the car and very likely still efficiently with his upgrades; sending a log over to DS1 or the community FB and they can certainly help him out if there is something alarming, or just for confirmation of the tune running with the upgrades. Always a nice choice, but not a replacement for professional tuning. Also why the DS1 product and community are one of the best, if not the only one like it out there.

In terms of Jack/Marc - no one denies he ran 9sec. Because of his deceptive past and his narcissistic ways, not many believe what he has done to the car to make it possible.

He also just got banned from another forum/group (DS1), and already moved on to another group to spread his trash. Stand up person right there...........

[RAF_S7]

Hello, are the mentionned turbos these, so they told you they are ball bearing ? Compressors looks interesting !

Can you mesure the inducer and exducer size on them ?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/22430069598....c100667.m2042

The other ebay turbos looks good too.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/15480056560....c100667.m2042

Yes, those are the Costel ones I went with, as their price included international shipping at no extra cost.

Size wise, the ID of the air intake bore is 54mm.
The OD of the intercooler feed is 47mm.

Cheers,
John

[Botbasher]

Yes, those are the Costel ones I went with...

Were you able to confirm if you got the ball or journal bearing versions?? They look journal size... but tech is happening so fast it's hard to tell if they are or aren't. The ones I found they state clearly are ball bearing have black compressor housings.

Either way, they are an awesome price and I may join you here shortly with a pair of my own!!

Looking forward to hearing your results!!

KS

[ANMS4]

Definitely following this, :)

[kaploww]

Looking at those turbos, you’re definitely going to want to look at some custom software.

Those are a significantly larger turbo than RS7’s.

With the very large compressor wheel, you are going to have some very unique spool characteristics on your hands.

I foresee unexpected throttle closures in your future.

They look like a beefy unit capable of some jam. Should be a pretty rowdy setup.