Need front brakes advice / help on replacement

[secondchance]

So my 2020 RS3 with the steel brakes on it tripped the sensor on my front pads today, so I need to find something suitable.

My 2020 only has 21k miles (34k kms) on it, 90% of which are highway ( used to drive 150 miles a day combined to and from work ), so I'm confused how they're done already, but I had one of my mechanics at work check them and they are under 3mm.

Working for Audi/VW doesn't make the OEM brake pricing any easier to stomach, so I am curious what rotors and pads others might be running ?!

Thanks in advance guys and gals

[034Motorsport]

If you're looking for a high-quality 2-Piece Rotor Replacement, the 034Motorsport rotors are a great option!

Our rotors will drop weight by 5.4lbs per side and offer directional cooling veins. From the factory, the RS3 utilizes the same rotor on both sides, leaving one side with proper venting and cooling, and the other the complete opposite. Due to their 2-Piece nature, replacement costs are also significantly lower as you will only need to replace the outer rotor ring.

https://store.034motorsport.com/2-pi...-8v-5-rs3.html

Here is the rear brake upgrade, which enlarges the rear rotor from 310mm to 350mm: https://store.034motorsport.com/2-pi...b-vw-audi.html

These rotors are also available from FCPEuro for their lifetime warranty: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/aud...ort-0343011000

-Sean@034

[StreetLethal]

So my 2020 RS3 with the steel brakes on it tripped the sensor on my front pads today, so I need to find something suitable.

My 2020 only has 21k miles (34k kms) on it, 90% of which are highway ( used to drive 150 miles a day combined to and from work ), so I'm confused how they're done already, but I had one of my mechanics at work check them and they are under 3mm.

Working for Audi/VW doesn't make the OEM brake pricing any easier to stomach, so I am curious what rotors and pads others might be running ?!

Thanks in advance guys and gals

I just did this last November but didn’t have the dealer’s findings verified by an independent shop. I went with OEM rotors and pads from Europa Parts for $820 before shipping. Installed them myself (first time ever doing brakes) and it took me about 3 hours, 45 minutes of which was spent trying to break the old rotors free from the hub (rubber mallet -> dead blow hammer -> sledge w/ wood block -> sledge direct hit). There are a few good youtube vids on it, and it wasn’t that hard. Pads came with a sensor that plugged right in on the passenger side. When I took out my old pads, they hadn’t even been worn past the chamfered edge and the rotors were still in good shape, but dealer said I needed new front rotors and pads for $3000 so I foolishly believed them. Bedding the new pads was also easy and performance is same as stock. If your car still stops well, then you don’t really need to rush replacing them, the sensor trips very early.

In retrospect, I do wish I upgraded to better pads and lighter rotors (Neuspeed/034), and will be going to a bigger rear kit when I replace those in a few weeks. Good luck!

[S4BB]

Just went through this same thing. I went with Girodisc rotors and Carbotech pads for both street and track. I worked with https://www.529innovations.com, and delt with Pete, he was very knowledgeable and extremely helpful, I would highly recommend them to anyone here.

[Alex D]

My factory pads also tripped the wear sensor at around 23,500 miles. It seems to be around the same as others reported. Your two piece rotors options are available from Girodisc, Essex Rotors, 034 Motorsports, Neuspeed, and i might be forgetting some other companies. Carbotech 1521 are popular replacement pads for this car.

[Potatohead_RS3]

You can literally kick this can down the road for under $100 unless you just want to buy rotors for the weight savings. It is extremely unlikely your rotors need to be replaced at this point.

[secondchance]

You can literally kick this can down the road for under $100 unless you just want to buy rotors for the weight savings. It is extremely unlikely your rotors need to be replaced at this point.

Generally speaking you should always change the pads and rotors together ( or have the rotors put on the brake lathe ) so you don't transfer any imperfections from the rotors onto the new pads. Best case scenario when only doing pads is greatly reducing the life of the new pads, and noisy AF brakes :/.

That said, I'm likely going to do just that, as my rotors are still in excellent shape. Sometimes its okay to be a hypocrite though right haha ?!

[Potatohead_RS3]

Generally speaking you should always change the pads and rotors together ( or have the rotors put on the brake lathe ) so you don't transfer any imperfections from the rotors onto the new pads. Best case scenario when only doing pads is greatly reducing the life of the new pads, and noisy AF brakes :/.

That said, I'm likely going to do just that, as my rotors are still in excellent shape. Sometimes its okay to be a hypocrite though right haha ?!

I do things by the book 99% of the time. For a literal $3k savings and not much risk I decided to try it the "wrong way," have put 15k on it like that, it has zero shimmy or other issues and it has never made a peep.

[henhead]

My $0.02. If you aren't going to track the car get neuspeed front rotors, on sale can be had for under 900, and stoptech rears (126.33113SL & 126.33113SR). This will give similar looking front and rear slotted rotors and drops some nice unsprung weight off of the front of the car.

As for pads, you'll see a lot of varying opinions. Do your research and buy based off of your usage and dust tolerance.

[LJS5]

My $0.02. If you aren't going to track the car get neuspeed front rotors, on sale can be had for under 900, and stoptech rears (126.33113SL & 126.33113SR). This will give similar looking front and rear slotted rotors and drops some nice unsprung weight off of the front of the car.

As for pads, you'll see a lot of varying opinions. Do your research and buy based off of your usage and dust tolerance.

My personal experience wasn't that great with Neuspeeds. Shot after 8k miles, bedded properly. Sticking with AP Racing from now.

[TheContrarian]

When my OEM brake pads wear out (probably soon) I have no intention of replacing the rotors at the same time. With the cost of brakes on this car, it is a bit unrealistic to replace everything and also unnecessary in my opinion assuming the rotors meet minimum thickness.

[CW98]

Generally speaking you should always change the pads and rotors together ( or have the rotors put on the brake lathe ) so you don't transfer any imperfections from the rotors onto the new pads. Best case scenario when only doing pads is greatly reducing the life of the new pads, and noisy AF brakes :/.

That said, I'm likely going to do just that, as my rotors are still in excellent shape. Sometimes its okay to be a hypocrite though right haha ?!

I'm still running the original front rotors after 36K miles - did an OEM pad swap around 21k and have had no issues - I can probably get another 5-8K out of these before replacing them. Rears are still original with about 40-50% pad left.

Take a look at VNE for replacements on the front - basically the same OEM quality parts without the "Audi" official branding, and half the price, if not less.

[sleepy_rs3]

I'm still running the original front rotors after 36K miles - did an OEM pad swap around 21k and have had no issues - I can probably get another 5-8K out of these before replacing them. Rears are still original with about 40-50% pad left.

Take a look at VNE for replacements on the front - basically the same OEM quality parts without the "Audi" official branding, and half the price, if not less.

I can vouch for this approach as well - original front pads lasted 19k miles, replaced them and kept the same front rotors as they were in great shape, that second set of pads have lasted 20k miles and sensor just tripped. Original rotors now have a significant lip and are just below minimum thickness but still no shaking, noise or any issues with their performance. I will soon be replacing the front rotors with the VNE OE-supplier rotors when I do the pads. Original rear pads and rotors are still okay after 39k miles, though I expect the sensor to trip sometime in the next 5k miles.

[DrTJ]

Got a bit over 35k miles out of the OEMs and just replaced my fronts with Neuspeed and yellow stuff pads. They are squeaking like crazy at slow speeds (light to light and parking lots). Does anyone know if this will go away with time/wear? Other than the low speed squeak, dust (a lot of dust, maybe 3x the OEM in my guess).

[mtwallace85]

Just got the AP Racing/Essex J Hook rotors and Ferodo pads which weren’t cheap, but when I need new discs again I can keep the hats and buy the rings for $400.

[noswalz]

I just did an oem knockoff pad for like 100 bucks. Wire tripped at around 20k miles like everyone else. Rotors still had plenty of life so all thats neede was pads. Dealership wanted 3k for pads and rotors, no thx.

This is what I got below. Good bite, no vibration or anything.

https://www.europaparts.com/brake-pa...BoCJeUQAvD_BwE

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[Skunkwerx]

Got the neuspeed rotor and Isweep pads.. no squeal, minimal dust, good bite. Not a track-ster on the road or at track so I don’t need higher spec other more experienced might need. Like others have said.. you can replace the rotor discs later and can reuse hats if undamaged.


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[S3DUDE]

There are now many companies offering 2 piece light weight rotors, I think most of the vendors offer good quality and "ok" price". I purchased a set of front 2 piece true lightweight rotors that cost me $885 and eachg one saved me 7lbs per corner. I have seen the link posted above and they are not as light nor they save as much weight.

There are two versions of OEM steel rotors manufacturer by Audi, the diference is mainly the hat design. When I posted my rotors pictures i weighted the rotors on two different digital scales and the diffrerence was 7lbs with the Neuspeed rotors.

I have been using Carbotech 1521 pads which I am not impressed, I wouldn't be putting them again.

[MXblau]

There are now many companies offering 2 piece light weight rotors, I think most of the vendors offer good quality and "ok" price". I purchased a set of front 2 piece true lightweight rotors that cost me $885 and eachg one saved me 7lbs per corner. I have seen the link posted above and they are not as light nor they save as much weight.

There are two versions of OEM steel rotors manufacturer by Audi, the diference is mainly the hat design. When I posted my rotors pictures i weighted the rotors on two different digital scales and the diffrerence was 7lbs with the Neuspeed rotors.

I have been using Carbotech 1521 pads which I am not impressed, I wouldn't be putting them again.

Why not on the 1521s?

[Potatohead_RS3]

Why not on the 1521s?

I don’t use them but I also don’t really understand why someone would pay that much for street pads

[sleepy_rs3]

I just did an oem knockoff pad for like 100 bucks. Wire tripped at around 20k miles like everyone else. Rotors still had plenty of life so all thats neede was pads. Dealership wanted 3k for pads and rotors, no thx.

This is what I got below. Good bite, no vibration or anything.

https://www.europaparts.com/brake-pa...BoCJeUQAvD_BwE

Sent from my SM-G991U using Audizine Forum mobile app

I picked up those same "OE supplier" pads from Europa (actually made by Icer in spain for everyone else's info). Did you run them for 20k miles or did you just put them on now? I'm interested in long term feedback on them. I had a bad experience with the porterfield R4S fronts before - they worked well on the street but started knocking around in the caliper after a few thousand miles, so I bit the bullet and got a new set of OEM brembos for $900. Those are worn out and I'd appreciate your feedback before I try the Icers...I'm wondering if you had any issues such as pad knock. Thank you.

[myrder]

rs4 brake pads and just resurface the rotors if you need for the first swap.

[sleepy_rs3]

rs4 brake pads and just resurface the rotors if you need for the first swap.

please provide link to RS4 pads

[myrder]

please provide link to RS4 pads

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...o8mK4Dog%3D%3D

used to be $60 still a good deal
all you have to do is rewire the sensor from one of your old pads to the new pads to make it work.

[sleepy_rs3]

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...o8mK4Dog%3D%3D

used to be $60 still a good deal
all you have to do is rewire the sensor from one of your old pads to the new pads to make it work.

This is great, thanks a lot. Much more peace of mind using brembo branded pads and the price is reasonable. Do you personally use these on your RS3?

[myrder]

This is great, thanks a lot. Much more peace of mind using brembo branded pads and the price is reasonable. Do you personally use these on your RS3?

yes, they get a little noisy but work great. and cheap to replace lol

[WAF]

My personal experience wasn't that great with Neuspeeds. Shot after 8k miles, bedded properly. Sticking with AP Racing from now.

I agree with you on the Neuspeed rotors they don't hold up especially the rears. Was using EBC redstuff pads which aren't aggressive on rotors and they got chewed up. Pads were bedded properly. I'll be looking elsewhere for my next purchase.

Sent from my SM-G970W using Audizine Forum mobile app

[noswalz]

I picked up those same "OE supplier" pads from Europa (actually made by Icer in spain for everyone else's info). Did you run them for 20k miles or did you just put them on now? I'm interested in long term feedback on them. I had a bad experience with the porterfield R4S fronts before - they worked well on the street but started knocking around in the caliper after a few thousand miles, so I bit the bullet and got a new set of OEM brembos for $900. Those are worn out and I'd appreciate your feedback before I try the Icers...I'm wondering if you had any issues such as pad knock. Thank you.

Only have run them for a few thousand miles, so far so good. No knock or anything, good bite, no noise or squeek. Don't have a long term 20k mile review just yet so can't comment on that.

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[StreetLethal]

Wanted to chime in here again about the “OEM” style replacement rotors and ICER pads (SKU #017175 and 016046 from Europa Parts) that I put on last November. I recently developed a new “shimmy” or “shudder” most noticeable on light-moderate braking around 35-45mph and then again at highway speeds, felt in the pedal and the steering wheel. On a hard stop, the shudder is very quick and then the car stops hard, and it happens when the brakes are hot and cold. I’m surprised this issue developed less than 5 months after installing new front rotors and pads, unless I botched the install. Had a different dealership check it out and they are telling me that the rotors are warped and corroded and then recommended replacing all 4 rotors and pads again, to the tune of $3500+. I’m not about to replace the front rotors again, so next step would be replacing the worn rear pads and rotors, and then finding a brake lathe + pad swap for the fronts. Any ideas of what this could be? Is this pad knock?

[sleepy_rs3]

Wanted to chime in here again about the “OEM” style replacement rotors and ICER pads (SKU #017175 and 016046 from Europa Parts) that I put on last November. I recently developed a new “shimmy” or “shudder” most noticeable on light-moderate braking around 35-45mph and then again at highway speeds, felt in the pedal and the steering wheel. On a hard stop, the shudder is very quick and then the car stops hard, and it happens when the brakes are hot and cold. I’m surprised this issue developed less than 5 months after installing new front rotors and pads, unless I botched the install. Had a different dealership check it out and they are telling me that the rotors are warped and corroded and then recommended replacing all 4 rotors and pads again, to the tune of $3500+. I’m not about to replace the front rotors again, so next step would be replacing the worn rear pads and rotors, and then finding a brake lathe + pad swap for the fronts. Any ideas of what this could be? Is this pad knock?

That sounds like warped rotors, when I had pad knock (using the Porterfield R4S front pads) it was a clunking sound that occurred when hitting bumps or during low speed steering - the brakes themselves performed well and were smooth. Please keep us posted on how your fix goes…if it is the front rotors being warped already you should call up Europa and/or write a review of the rotors on their site.

[348SStb]

Reviving an old thread here. Thank you to all contributors. I may repeat the question ahead on some other related threads so please forgive the redundancy if you encounter it.

I have. 2023 (8Y) RS3 and like others, I have noticed the heat problem on the passenger front side. I was advised to go with GiroDisc rotors which have the cooling veins in the property direction for each side.

Here’s my question. I don’t want to go and spend $1,100 for these and hundreds more on labor and then tax on top of it all **if** these are going to result in a MARGINAL difference.

I am looking for a SIGNIFICANT difference in temperature — meaning the front passenger side will be almost as cool as the driver side. I observe the temperature difference using the temperature display of the individual tires on the tire pressure monitor, and they more or less tell me when the passenger side is seriously unhappy. My front passenger side was heated to the point of lots of smoke during a spirited mountain drive, which isn’t confidence-inspiring when there are cliffs and ravines waiting for cars that have reduced braking effect.

Thank you for your input.