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  1. #1
    Senior Member Three Rings dal59's Avatar
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    Another Night - Another C8 Corvette

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    A couple of weeks ago I raced one and won by a car length or so. Tonight, I was more prepared. Of course, the car was in Dynamic, RC was on map 5 and Pedalbox was in Sport, but this time I added one more thing. I held the left downshift paddle down and let the car select the best gear. We were doing 80 and I believe the car selected 4th gear. So, when it was time to go, there was no downshifting. What a difference this complete combo makes! Won by several car lengths and got huge waves and many thumbs up from Vette owner.

    Then, back into Drive Auto and map 4 for a comfortable, luxurious ride home. These cars definitely have multiple personalities.

  2. #2
    Established Member Two Rings Lethalsouls's Avatar
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    Ha fun story. Looking forward to reading about the next takedown

  3. #3
    Established Member Two Rings
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    I didnt know about holding the pedal shifter down trick gotta try that


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  4. #4
    Veteran Member Four Rings HurrayFive's Avatar
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    Yiss, all S and RS models come with the "pass a mf" hold left paddle for a couple seconds to put the car in the best gear for "passing a mf", I use it all the time for said purpose.

    I've still not seen a single C8 in person where I live, but they run an 11.2-3 @ 122 toootally stock w/ a decent launch, so it's surprising you're pulling on them at all, they should put up way more of a fight than that. Roll racing should be to their advantage to pull away too, but it could be a gearing thing like the C7 Z that was effed by GM, also could just be geared for quick down low acceleration and not for fwy pulls.

    I played with another M5 Comp this week on the bridge, my '21 M5C ran a 10.4 @ 131 w/ nothing but a JB4 on map 1, and a 10.8 @ 128 stock, so it's another league of performance, but we did a couple of 60-120 rolls anyway...it was close for about a second or two...then I got wrecked by boat lengths each time, haha, but that car makes everything seem slow, and it's a highway queen, just puuulllsss like nothing else I've ever driven.

    '25 M8 Comp GC Frozen Tanzanite on Ivory/Night Blue - 11.0 @ 126 bone stock

  5. #5
    Senior Member Three Rings dal59's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by HurrayFive View Post
    I've still not seen a single C8 in person where I live, but they run an 11.2-3 @ 122 totally stock w/ a decent launch, so it's surprising you're pulling on them at all, they should put up way more of a fight than that. Roll racing should be to their advantage to pull away too, but it could be a gearing thing like the C7 Z that was effed by GM, also could just be geared for quick down low acceleration and not for fwy puls
    Yes, I am very surprised also. The first race we started at the same time, but when I pulled on him a bit, I started to wonder if maybe I jumped him. If I jump someone, it is not intentional, and if I win, it is a hollow victory. So, this time I did the auto downshift and waited until I heard him floor it. He did initially pull a couple of car lengths, but the RS5 caught and passed him. Both times it took high speeds for me to pass. Meaning, if either time they had stopped racing at 100, they would have both won. It is something about the top end of these cars. They seem to really pull hard from 100+.

  6. #6
    Senior Member Three Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by dal59 View Post
    Yes, I am very surprised also. The first race we started at the same time, but when I pulled on him a bit, I started to wonder if maybe I jumped him. If I jump someone, it is not intentional, and if I win, it is a hollow victory. So, this time I did the auto downshift and waited until I heard him floor it. He did initially pull a couple of car lengths, but the RS5 caught and passed him. Both times it took high speeds for me to pass. Meaning, if either time they had stopped racing at 100, they would have both won. It is something about the top end of these cars. They seem to really pull hard from 100+.
    Built for the Autobahn, baby. If you're passing someone there and another car on your six is approaching you doing 150mph+, you better be able to pull hard from 100mph+ ...
    2019 RS-5 Sportback | Nardo Gray | Dynamic Plus | Dynamic Steering | Dynamic Ride Control | Driver Assistance | Black Optics | Napa leather | B&O | 275/30 R20 Continental DWS06+(f)/DWS06(r) | Bosch Passenger Sport Gauges

  7. #7
    Senior Member Three Rings dal59's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DCB1951 View Post
    Built for the Autobahn, baby. If you're passing someone there and another car on your six is approaching you doing 150mph+, you better be able to pull hard from 100mph+ ...
    Maybe so. I just know that all my victories are either from a launch or on top end. The mid-range is very good, but launching and high end pulling power are superior!

  8. #8
    Established Member Two Rings
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    c8 mid engin corvette are lighter and run 10.90s-11.2s stock. they trap 120-122 mph stock. it's hard to believe you walked on one especially if your car is stock.

    your only chance would be from a dig.

    i have owned a c7 GS and a RS%

  9. #9
    Junior Member Two Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by solarrs5 View Post
    c8 mid engin corvette are lighter and run 10.90s-11.2s stock. they trap 120-122 mph stock. it's hard to believe you walked on one especially if your car is stock.

    your only chance would be from a dig.

    i have owned a c7 GS and a RS%
    I think he has a Racechip on Map 5. It pulls much harder than stock on Map 5. I usually run Map 6/7. :)
    2019 RS5 Coupe / Nardo / Dynamic Pkg / Drivers Assist /

  10. #10
    Senior Member Three Rings dal59's Avatar
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    I do run a RC on map 5 with 93 octane. And, while neither the Pedalbox nor holding down the downshift paddle to find the best gear add any HP, they both help the car launch from a roll significantly faster. Or maybe the two I have raced let off and let me win, but the most recent one sure gave me an awful lot of waves and thumbs-up. Who knows??

  11. #11
    Veteran Member Four Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by dal59 View Post
    I do run a RC on map 5 with 93 octane. And, while neither the Pedalbox nor holding down the downshift paddle to find the best gear add any HP, they both help the car launch from a roll significantly faster. Or maybe the two I have raced let off and let me win, but the most recent one sure gave me an awful lot of waves and thumbs-up. Who knows??
    lose the racechip, buy a used JB4 for 400ish
    and add 5 gallons of E85 to the 93 octane tank, and use map 5 on the JB4
    trust me, you will love it
    if you don't you can probably sell the JB4 for around what you paid for it

  12. #12
    Veteran Member Four Rings scott1961's Avatar
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    Very happy with my Racechip. Dropped car off for service this morning so put the deactivation plug in. What a huge difference, car felt so slow. The amount of TQ I get with the racechip has it pulling harder than my Lamborghini Evo
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  13. #13
    Junior Member Two Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by scott1961 View Post
    Very happy with my Racechip. Dropped car off for service this morning so put the deactivation plug in. What a huge difference, car felt so slow. The amount of TQ I get with the racechip has it pulling harder than my Lamborghini Evo
    Yes. You are exactly right. If you want to see how MUCH the Racechip is really doing, then turn it off, and then it becomes CLEAR, that there is a huge bang for the buck with the Racechip.
    2019 RS5 Coupe / Nardo / Dynamic Pkg / Drivers Assist /

  14. #14
    Senior Member Three Rings dal59's Avatar
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    As best as I can figure, on Map 5, I am making an additional 40HP & 60TQ. I do not have access to a dyno, but these are my best estimates after doing a fair amount of research. Stock gross numbers can vary a fair amount from one car to another, but using Audi' nos. 444/443, this would put me at approx. 484/503. That is a very substantial improvement for $650.00 with great cust. serv., very easy install and keeping my warranty! And these are gains you can really feel. IMO you cannot go wrong with either a RC or a JB. However, if you just want the most power available and do not care about your warranty, then I guess it is APR or 034 (after release of their 93 tune and more testing).

  15. #15
    Junior Member Two Rings -Quick-'s Avatar
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    Solid run, just kinda expected the vettes to put up a bigger fight for sure. Had to imagine they were faster, not to mention they def have the aero advantage as you get going faster.

  16. #16
    Senior Member Three Rings dal59's Avatar
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    Here are 2 possible reasons why the Vette' are so quick 0-60 & 1/4-mile but lose it on the top end. Info taken from Chevy website.


    1 - PERFORMANCE RATIO REAR AXLE (quick 0-60 & 1/4-mile)

    5.17 rear axle ratio
    May require additional optional equipment

    I have never even heard of a gear ratio this low. Running a 4.10 is a LOT of gear! Again, this was taken from the Chevy website when "building" the car. However, if this is correct, this would explain a lot about its acceleration.

    2 - Chevrolet says that the stock Z51 spoiler produces over 400 pounds of downforce at speed. (Maybe why it slows a bit at high speed)

    That pretty much eats up their weight advantage, from 500lbs. lighter, to 100lbs. lighter.

    Power: Stock Vette 495/465 - RS5 with Racechip 485/505
    Last edited by dal59; 04-06-2022 at 09:46 AM.

  17. #17
    Veteran Member Four Rings HurrayFive's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dal59 View Post
    Here are 2 possible reasons why the Vette' are so quick 0-60 & 1/4-mile but lose it on the top end. Info taken from Chevy website.


    1 - PERFORMANCE RATIO REAR AXLE (quick 0-60 & 1/4-mile)

    5.17 rear axle ratio
    May require additional optional equipment

    I have never even heard of a gear ratio this low. Running a 4.10 is a LOT of gear! Again, this was taken from the Chevy website when "building" the car. However, if this is correct, this would explain a lot about its acceleration.

    2 - Chevrolet says that the stock Z51 spoiler produces over 400 pounds of downforce at speed. (Maybe why it slows a bit at high speed)

    That pretty much eats up their weight advantage, from 500lbs. lighter, to 100lbs. lighter.

    Power: Stock Vette 495/465 - RS5 with Racechip 485/505
    Yup, sounds about right, I figured it was just gearing, they went on and on about that crazy stock 2.8 0-60 figure but it's at the expense of losing top end pull, sounds like it falls off a cliff pretty hard around 110 or so. Audi and BMW both gear the ZF for the Autobahn. My M5C didn't even feel like it woke up until after 100MPH, thing could go 0 to the 155 max limiter in a shade under 14 seconds with LC shifts and at no point did it feel like it was slowing up when you bonked the soft limiter. It was good for 190 with the ceramics I didn't have and it felt like it would have just kept pulling hard all the way. The RS5 also pulls reasonably well past 100 with the JB given its power level.

    '25 M8 Comp GC Frozen Tanzanite on Ivory/Night Blue - 11.0 @ 126 bone stock

  18. #18
    Senior Member Three Rings dal59's Avatar
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    C8 no. 3 last night.

  19. #19
    Established Member Two Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by dal59 View Post
    As best as I can figure, on Map 5, I am making an additional 40HP & 60TQ. I do not have access to a dyno, but these are my best estimates after doing a fair amount of research. Stock gross numbers can vary a fair amount from one car to another, but using Audi' nos. 444/443, this would put me at approx. 484/503. That is a very substantial improvement for $650.00 with great cust. serv., very easy install and keeping my warranty!
    not to re-direct this thread, but I thought piggy back tuners get warranty flagged TD1 as well??

  20. #20
    Veteran Member Four Rings scott1961's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RS5-TP View Post
    not to re-direct this thread, but I thought piggy back tuners get warranty flagged TD1 as well??
    Brought my car in for service and didnt even remove my Racechip and no TD1.
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  21. #21
    Established Member Two Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by scott1961 View Post
    Brought my car in for service and didnt even remove my Racechip and no TD1.
    interesting. Is it that they didn't mention? Obviously we wouldn't ask if it was flagged. Sorry to be pesky, but I would have bought one of these things months ago if I was for sure it didn't flag TD1.

  22. #22
    Established Member Two Rings DaytonaRS5's Avatar
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    It doesn’t flag TD1, it will show changes to boost levels etc if they go looking though. Nothing other stock is going to secure you 100% with warranty.


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  23. #23
    Veteran Member Four Rings HurrayFive's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by scott1961 View Post
    Brought my car in for service and didnt even remove my Racechip and no TD1.
    RC doesn't plug in to OBD-II port, techs in a hurry at most will connect to said port and scan for codes, if no problem codes present, they proceed to complete service. RC doesn't modify the factory ECU image hash so the (very quick) system cert scan that runs once the car is plugged in would say everything is A-OK.

    That said, GL getting that past any tech that gives two effs. The connected piggyback sensor wires in the engine bay are *completely* obvious, and for that reason alone, a pissy dealer could manually flag the car. It takes 2 minutes to disconnect something like a RC or JB before a service visit and then you don't have to worry about it, it's worth spending the 2 minutes.

    '25 M8 Comp GC Frozen Tanzanite on Ivory/Night Blue - 11.0 @ 126 bone stock

  24. #24
    Senior Member Three Rings dal59's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by HurrayFive View Post
    RC doesn't plug in to OBD-II port, techs in a hurry at most will connect to said port and scan for codes, if no problem codes present, they proceed to complete service. RC doesn't modify the factory ECU image hash so the (very quick) system cert scan that runs once the car is plugged in would say everything is A-OK.

    That said, GL getting that past any tech that gives two effs. The connected piggyback sensor wires in the engine bay are *completely* obvious, and for that reason alone, a pissy dealer could manually flag the car. It takes 2 minutes to disconnect something like a RC or JB before a service visit and then you don't have to worry about it, it's worth spending the 2 minutes.
    Yes, I agree. The longest part of disconnecting the RC is waiting the 10 minutes for the car to go to sleep. Also, if you remove it, you will really appreciate the tune again once you re-install after driving to and from the dealer without your tune. :)

  25. #25
    Veteran Member Four Rings coolwater's Avatar
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    Another Night - Another C8 Corvette

    I got a JB4 for sale if anyone wants to try it out. Switched to a ECU tune on my SQ5 and this will work on RS5 as well. Half price from original. Shameless plug I know. :)

    Even got a little install video. https://youtu.be/nc8Emx0Frms

    https://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...nd-RS-vehicles

    -cW


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  26. #26
    Veteran Member Four Rings pwdrskr's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by HurrayFive View Post
    RC doesn't plug in to OBD-II port, techs in a hurry at most will connect to said port and scan for codes, if no problem codes present, they proceed to complete service. RC doesn't modify the factory ECU image hash so the (very quick) system cert scan that runs once the car is plugged in would say everything is A-OK.

    That said, GL getting that past any tech that gives two effs. The connected piggyback sensor wires in the engine bay are *completely* obvious, and for that reason alone, a pissy dealer could manually flag the car. It takes 2 minutes to disconnect something like a RC or JB before a service visit and then you don't have to worry about it, it's worth spending the 2 minutes.
    However, that scenario, disconnect piggy back, quick scan shows no issues and therefore no TD1. The problem will come if something happens to the car that causes the techs to dig into the logs. At which point, the increased boost numbers reveal themselves and Audi then TD1s the car refusing to fix the problem. I suppose one could claim the car was unmodified, but Audi would have the data.

    So, it would seem that anything that modifies engine performance will eventually be revealed, and revealed when an engine problem related to performance occurs. There is no perfect way to avoid the TD1 designation and having repairs denied. At least that is how I understand these things.

    As I've posted before, I tune my cars knowing full well the consequences. I chose to purchase APR Plus (even at the increased cost for our new RS6 despite APRs explanation for the cost) to gain some sort of warranty coverage. APR warranty may not be perfect, but it is better than nothing for me. In the end I accept the risk I'm taking and am prepared to pay the consequences. I don't blame Audi for their position, I accept the situation...
    '19RS5 Coupe: Prestige, Daytona Grey, Blk Interior, Carbon Pkg, Driver Pkgs, APR+/TCU/Intake, CETE AVC, ABT Coils, Vossen EVO-1R 20x10et20

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  27. #27
    Veteran Member Four Rings HurrayFive's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pwdrskr View Post
    However, that scenario, disconnect piggy back, quick scan shows no issues and therefore no TD1. The problem will come if something happens to the car that causes the techs to dig into the logs. At which point, the increased boost numbers reveal themselves and Audi then TD1s the car refusing to fix the problem. I suppose one could claim the car was unmodified, but Audi would have the data.

    So, it would seem that anything that modifies engine performance will eventually be revealed, and revealed when an engine problem related to performance occurs. There is no perfect way to avoid the TD1 designation and having repairs denied. At least that is how I understand these things.
    Yep, I've explained this a few times across the forums over the years on this site, that nothing is a guarantee after you make any modification to the vehicle, and Audi can choose to deny a warranty claim for both hardware and software modifications. In this case I was specifically speaking towards standard maintenance visits.

    Flashing your ECU & TCU back to stock, or completely removing a piggyback, and putting at least 3 start/stop cycles and about a dozen miles is enough to reset the short term environmental data (including previously requested fuel trims, boost, etc) that exists in the ECU for a service visit. Again, it's not a guarantee, but it's generally enough to avoid any *automatic* TD1 flagging at a standard service visit. I've never had an issue or been flagged across any of my Audis since 2013.

    That said, and reiterating what I've also said before in other posts, any catastrophic failure requires an engineering review before a warranty claim, and the SENT bus modules each have their own logging capabilities that when thoroughly reviewed, will nearly always show you've modified the car, even if it's presently back to stock, and they'll flag the car and deny the claim. If you aren't prepared to pay out of pocket for something like that, then it's best to just not modify the vehicle.

    APR Plus is a good idea in theory, but they keep raising the price and lock you into the lowest output tune (sometimes even de-tuned from their standard 91 tune depending on the platform) and what I keep seeing people do is spending that extra money...and then voiding it right away by flashing to a higher octane map after they want more power or, immediately adding hardware mods that void it all the same. If you're content with the 91 tune and nothing else, it's a decent option. I know I would buy it...and immediately want to try the 93 file, annnnnd then it's useless.

    '25 M8 Comp GC Frozen Tanzanite on Ivory/Night Blue - 11.0 @ 126 bone stock

  28. #28
    Veteran Member Four Rings pwdrskr's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by HurrayFive View Post
    APR Plus is a good idea in theory, but they keep raising the price and lock you into the lowest output tune (sometimes even de-tuned from their standard 91 tune depending on the platform) and what I keep seeing people do is spending that extra money...and then voiding it right away by flashing to a higher octane map after they want more power or, immediately adding hardware mods that void it all the same. If you're content with the 91 tune and nothing else, it's a decent option. I know I would buy it...and immediately want to try the 93 file, annnnnd then it's useless.
    I don't plan to go to higher tunes (93+) or do anything more hardware wise other than maybe an APR intake when it launches, so in my case the APR warranty makes sense. The improve accelerator tip-in alone is a big enough reason to tune the car. Increase octane tunes are useless for me as those fuels aren't easily available anywhere near me that I know of here in Carlsbad, CA.
    '19RS5 Coupe: Prestige, Daytona Grey, Blk Interior, Carbon Pkg, Driver Pkgs, APR+/TCU/Intake, CETE AVC, ABT Coils, Vossen EVO-1R 20x10et20

    '22RS6: Glacier White, Blk/Gray Interior, Blk Optics, Exec, Driver Pkgs, Sport Exhaust, APR+, Akrapovič Exhaust, CETE AVC/ASC, Vossen GNS-1 22x10.5 et7, Stealth wrapped Piano Black Interior

  29. #29
    Veteran Member Four Rings HurrayFive's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pwdrskr View Post
    I don't plan to go to higher tunes (93+) or do anything more hardware wise other than maybe an APR intake when it launches, so in my case the APR warranty makes sense. The improve accelerator tip-in alone is a big enough reason to tune the car. Increase octane tunes are useless for me as those fuels aren't easily available anywhere near me that I know of here in Carlsbad, CA.
    We luck out with only having 92 (no 91) in WA, and in our winters at sea level where the high is 38 and the low is 34 for 5-6 months, 93 files log safely (I've logged a JB4, APR, EPL, and now 034 tunes) on pump 92. In the summer you need to run the 91 file, or as I'm doing now, adding 2 gallons of E to a full tank of 92 to get to 93 equivalent and log safely with no timing pull like it does in winter.

    For 034 on the RS5, there's a huge difference between their 91 and 93 tunes on stock hardware, 484HP vs 514HP, and 500TQ vs 540TQ, driving both the 91 and 93 files, the 93 file rips SO much harder from 5K to the new 7K redline, and just keeps pulling harder all the way to 7K, so I gave up on the 91 map and went back to the 93 blending E from a station that regularly tests to put out E70, or about 100 octane, and produces 93 octane equivalent with 2 gallons of E to a tank. I can fill up my 6 gallon jug, put two gallons in the tank when I'm there, and then I've got 4 tanks basically between trips out to the station, which as often as I drive is basically all summer, haha.

    With my RS7, I would have been happy with just a 91 tune, it ran an 11.4 @ 119 stock (same as my RS5 with the JB4 on map 2, RS5 is more like an 11.2x @ 122 now) and the 91 tune would have been enough by itself to give it just a little more power.

    '25 M8 Comp GC Frozen Tanzanite on Ivory/Night Blue - 11.0 @ 126 bone stock

  30. #30
    Veteran Member Four Rings pwdrskr's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by HurrayFive View Post
    We luck out with only having 92 (no 91) in WA, and in our winters at sea level where the high is 38 and the low is 34 for 5-6 months, 93 files log safely (I've logged a JB4, APR, EPL, and now 034 tunes) on pump 92. In the summer you need to run the 91 file, or as I'm doing now, adding 2 gallons of E to a full tank of 92 to get to 93 equivalent and log safely with no timing pull like it does in winter.

    For 034 on the RS5, there's a huge difference between their 91 and 93 tunes on stock hardware, 484HP vs 514HP, and 500TQ vs 540TQ, driving both the 91 and 93 files, the 93 file rips SO much harder from 5K to the new 7K redline, and just keeps pulling harder all the way to 7K, so I gave up on the 91 map and went back to the 93 blending E from a station that regularly tests to put out E70, or about 100 octane, and produces 93 octane equivalent with 2 gallons of E to a tank. I can fill up my 6 gallon jug, put two gallons in the tank when I'm there, and then I've got 4 tanks basically between trips out to the station, which as often as I drive is basically all summer, haha.

    With my RS7, I would have been happy with just a 91 tune, it ran an 11.4 @ 119 stock (same as my RS5 with the JB4 on map 2, RS5 is more like an 11.2x @ 122 now) and the 91 tune would have been enough by itself to give it just a little more power.
    I applaud your commitment to "creating" higher octane fuels. I am far too lazy to go through all that, "know thyself". Plus, I'm just this side of the risk tolerance line with our RS cars to go beyond the APR+ level. Now, on the other hand, I took our now gone B8.5 Allroad just about to the limit short of nitro or changing out engine internals or something: K04 Turbo/APR corresponding tune, FMIC, HFC, Catbacks for awhile, suspension, and on and on. Made a milquetoast stock car (211hp, ~236 torque or something) into a mid 300s fun car to drive. Took it all the way to 100k+ miles before selling to another enthusiast last summer to make room for an incoming A6 Allroad (that is already getting replaced with a new RS6 that with the tuner now).
    '19RS5 Coupe: Prestige, Daytona Grey, Blk Interior, Carbon Pkg, Driver Pkgs, APR+/TCU/Intake, CETE AVC, ABT Coils, Vossen EVO-1R 20x10et20

    '22RS6: Glacier White, Blk/Gray Interior, Blk Optics, Exec, Driver Pkgs, Sport Exhaust, APR+, Akrapovič Exhaust, CETE AVC/ASC, Vossen GNS-1 22x10.5 et7, Stealth wrapped Piano Black Interior

  31. #31
    Junior Member Two Rings SupahDave's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by scott1961 View Post
    Very happy with my Racechip. Dropped car off for service this morning so put the deactivation plug in. What a huge difference, car felt so slow. The amount of TQ I get with the racechip has it pulling harder than my Lamborghini Evo
    Scott, If you're servicing your RS5 where you bought it, you don't need to worry about disconnecting your RC for service. Piggybacks can't be detected by Audi's servers, only direct flashes to the ECU. I'm the service director at the store and I run a JB4 in my RS5 and always recommend piggybacks rather than reflashes to customers who are looking to not void their warranty.

  32. #32
    Veteran Member Four Rings pwdrskr's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SupahDave View Post
    Scott, If you're servicing your RS5 where you bought it, you don't need to worry about disconnecting your RC for service. Piggybacks can't be detected by Audi's servers, only direct flashes to the ECU. I'm the service director at the store and I run a JB4 in my RS5 and always recommend piggybacks rather than reflashes to customers who are looking to not void their warranty.
    this isn't strictly true. A knowledgeable tech could see the piggyback. Our A6 Allroad has an ABT and its pretty obvious if you know what you're looking at.

    However, as has been discussed many times on this and other forums, the native ECU logs all sorts of engine performance parameter including increased pressures in the turbos. It is true that a routine scan won't uncover these abnormal values, however, that isn't the instance that matters. What matters is if something breaks and a tech has to go deeper into the performance data. At this point the abnormal performance will be detected and the jig will be up. HurrayFive in post #27 above does a far better job explaining this than I have. The bottom line is there is no true way to hide a performance tune, regardless if it is a flash returned to stock or disconnecting one of the many piggyback options.

    Also, it is Audi of America that will approve or deny a warranty claim. A dealership would have to lie to AoA or somehow hide the fact a car was altered in order to get approval for repairs. I have no idea how all this actually works. However, I have to think that a dealer wouldn't be willing to take on that kind of risk. What would AoA do to such a dealer should the subterfuge be found out? The dealership would pay the price of the decisions of the customer. I can't see that happening.
    '19RS5 Coupe: Prestige, Daytona Grey, Blk Interior, Carbon Pkg, Driver Pkgs, APR+/TCU/Intake, CETE AVC, ABT Coils, Vossen EVO-1R 20x10et20

    '22RS6: Glacier White, Blk/Gray Interior, Blk Optics, Exec, Driver Pkgs, Sport Exhaust, APR+, Akrapovič Exhaust, CETE AVC/ASC, Vossen GNS-1 22x10.5 et7, Stealth wrapped Piano Black Interior

  33. #33
    Veteran Member Three Rings ywang98's Avatar
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    I sort of raced one today. I am on RC and 91 octane. It's 90+ degrees F.

    It's a tollroad entrance, curved and then go uphill.

    I hesitated because he didn't gun it right away, so by the time he started gunning it, I did too (I was in Auto mode). Around the curve, he couldn't catch me, but once we are in the straight road uphill, he started reeling me in. Came upon heavy traffic, and by that time, he barely passed me by a car length.

    Not too bad for a 4-door sedan with a 2.9T. Of course, once on the tollroad, I drove normally. But he continued to speed and passed everyone like he was possessed. Haha!

  34. #34
    Senior Member Three Rings dal59's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ywang98 View Post
    I sort of raced one today. I am on RC and 91 octane. It's 90+ degrees F.

    It's a tollroad entrance, curved and then go uphill.

    I hesitated because he didn't gun it right away, so by the time he started gunning it, I did too (I was in Auto mode). Around the curve, he couldn't catch me, but once we are in the straight road uphill, he started reeling me in. Came upon heavy traffic, and by that time, he barely passed me by a car length.

    Not too bad for a 4-door sedan with a 2.9T. Of course, once on the tollroad, I drove normally. But he continued to speed and passed everyone like he was possessed. Haha!
    Wow, the thread is back on topic. :) Well, seems like you did very well under the circumstances. Sounds like he got a little jump on you, plus you were not in Dynamic mode. If you were in Dynamic (shame on you for not being better prepared) and went at the same time, you would have at least been even. Most importantly, I have access to 93 octane and that makes a very big difference. BTW - good thing you did not have eggs in the car with you.. :) Also, I believe boosted cars suffer more from heat than naturally aspirated cars do.
    Last edited by dal59; 08-11-2022 at 02:23 PM.

  35. #35
    Veteran Member Three Rings ywang98's Avatar
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    Yeah, I searched for this thread after the encounter.

    Yeah, I know... I should have turned on one of my RS modes (all balls out mode) on the steering wheel. I wasn't gonna race if he didn't. And he didn't really go for it immediately that made me hesitated. Really want to try 93 gas.

    I think he was surprised by how well I did and got mad; thus, driving like an idiot later.

    Haha! Yeah, eggs... I remember that one.

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