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  1. #1
    Active Member One Ring bkwrzdub's Avatar
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    Mar 14 2022
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    681119
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    Brantford

    40V Swap - 987.1 Cayman SCHOOL ME HERE

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    Greetings one and all!

    I'm Bkwrzdub (Backwards dub)

    ...and I'm retarded...

    I've been dubbing since I could drive... back when they invented the wheel, fire and dirt.

    So, granted, I've had loads of 1.8t's, TDI's, a few VRs, A fox (yee B Series!) an audi 90 (yee more b chassis!) a b6 a4 avant wagon (this is under the knife atm)

    Anyways

    A few months back, my daily mk7 gti's loan was all paid up and I felt like doing a stupid.

    lo and behold a 987.1 Cayman came up local to me on the cheap - naturally, I'm a curious bugger...

    "how bad could it possibly be?"

    well.........

    famous last words



    So, fast forward a few weeks with the vehicle

    It's fucking FANTASTIC, it handles AMAZING!

    but it has bore scoring.


    I'm one to keep my cars an unusually long amount of time (I kept my grandparents old diesel TD mk2 on the road up until about 4-5 years ago)
    So I'm slowing down my "flipping" and beginning to get to "collecting"

    This is one I want to keep

    After doing some number crunching, A removal, recondition, and reinstall of a flat6 with bore scoring can be upwards of 25k USD...

    that tells me - others whom are faint of heart wouldn't be so daring and would sell the car.

    and like I said above, I'm retarded and will try anything once (maybe twice)

    but ya dont go driving dubs for 20 years and dont learn nuttin'

    So without further adieu, welcome my madness

    40v 987.1 Swap!


    I've seen the following Examples & Resources

    https://sites.google.com/view/boxsterv8swap/home
    (I've been in contact with Fincher's Garage - Stand up dude!)


    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qyDB...bO9Kena81b1GuY
    986 Rockster by "home built by jeff"

    I was a recent watcher of Youtuber JaseWilks whom had done this on HIS cayman.....

    but... I dont see anyone else doing this on cayman 987.1's
    to my understanding, the 2.7 is a bit more robust and not afflicted by bore score like the 3.4


    It's running, driving and carting my fat ass around quite nicely at the moment, but at some point... it's going to go "big bada boom"

    And it WILL go BOOM sooner than later because I've checked my pleats of the oil filter while removed and disassembled and there ARE DEFINATELY
    metal pieceS about the size of a popcorn kernel in the oil.

    and, since it's a porsche, it comes out the bottom - Naturally.

    Anyways

    What I have is:

    -987.1 Cayman S Gen1 with 3.4 flat 6
    -012 g87.20 6spd Gearbox


    What I have collected are:
    -2004 Audi D3 A8 BFM code 4.2 40v
    -Starter & Alternator
    -The Associated ME7.1.1 Wiring harness - NO ECU
    -Bufkin pipe
    -C5 A6 Alternator bracket/Oil cooler



    And now..... I know there are many variations of the audi v8.... 32v and 40v, 3.6L to 4.2L, S motors, the intakes, the cams.... and in my case
    I've got the 03-05 D3 A8, so that's like the D2 S8 motor? (less cams? different intake runner flaps - double actuation, not single)
    and that it's also based off the RS4?(6?) block where the lower bolt holes differ, but not a major issue.

    I've also got the Factory Bellhousing Spacer for the BFM engine, but I'm fairly certain I'm NOT to use this?
    but could stand to get the earlier 2.7t engine spacer as a template for the upper starter bolt
    which needs to be drilled into this block?

    (as shown here)
    https://www.rs6.com/showthread.php/2...p-Teaser/page2


    The crank is an 8 bolt, rather than the 10bolt RS style block
    and many have done the manual 4.2L Swap with the TTV Racing Flywheel with Stock B7 RS4 Clutch Disk & Pressure plate

    Im not opposed to running the TTV equipment, but I'm wondering if the Clutch Masters unit P/N 02053-TD8S-A
    if that's got the proper flywheel (with 8bolt & 60-2 Tooth ring - with proper orientation for Crank angle sensor)
    and if it has the proper overall clutch basket height to fit within the bellhousing. (I DONT EXPECT ANYONE TO READILY ANSWER THIS)

    most of my questions are based around mounting 012 g87.20 Transmission to BFM 40v 4.2L - The physical bits

    I should be able to handle the fabrication, wiring, cooling, etc

    but I have literally zero experience on any audi v8's
    ironically I live in the middle of big domestic truck country
    (I have one for work, so I cant poke fun)

    If anyone else happens to know of any other 986box or 987cay 40v swaps going on
    post it!

    I see more boxster guys trying this than I do see caymans

    but I think that using the vw/audi lego like this makes for a quite the interesting alternative

    Thanks Gents!

  2. #2
    Veteran Member Four Rings Nollywood's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 03 2011
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    83391
    My Garage
    ‘07 B7 RS4 Avant, 10 SEAT Exeo ST, ‘13 3R9 400-R
    Location
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    Porsche Boxter / Audi V8 40V swap has been done here in the UK.
    2007 Audi RS4 Avant B7 - Misano Red Pearl Effect
    2007 Audi RS4 Saloon B7 - Sprint Blue
    2013 SEAT Exeo ST - Project 3R9 400-R
    2010 SEAT Exeo ST - Project 3R9 420-S
    1986 Type 85 Audi 90 quattro

  3. #3
    Active Member One Ring bkwrzdub's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 14 2022
    AZ Member #
    681119
    Location
    Brantford

    Hi Nolly
    Thanks for posting

    yeah, I've seen it's been done there, I was paying close attention to @JaseWilks, but he removed his videos :(

    So I'm basing most of my resources from the links above...

    I guess my questions are based from one of your old posts Nolly...

    https://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...re-They-Needed

    So, since I'm running a BFM code (D3A8 4.2L40v), it's similar to a D2S8 code engine?

    and

    as your post says explicitly in red, at the top
    "Generally, clutch / flywheel combinations with a stack height of approx. 86.0mm will fit within an 01A, 01E, 01X, 02X, 012, 0A2, 0A3 without the need of a spacer"

    so, with what I've researched about the BFM code engine, is that the block casting is similar to the RS style blocks
    and in using the updated block casting, some grinding of the webbing will need to happen, and a new starter hole will need to be added

    I do have the engine spacer on the block with my 4.2 (09E103551B)

    But, for drilling the new starter hole, I would need to use
    01E 103 551
    Any of them, regardless of the thickness - just to use as a template for pilot hole marking location.
    as seen in the following links

    https://www.rs6.com/showthread.php/2...p-Teaser/page2
    and
    https://forum.rs246.com/viewtopic.php?t=133606


    and all the boxster & caymans I've seen used the belt drive, good for that because...

    a. better and more reliable than chain drive and their tensioners
    and
    b. front cover access (but lets face it, it's better to do any of that sort of service with the engine out)

    I'm currently awaiting the arrival of a c5 a6 oil flange and cooler mount/alternator adapter..
    and I've got a bufkin pipe here waiting to be installed

    but from my perspective - it's more common to do this with the early style block rather than the d3/rs style block, is it not?

    And

    in saying that, and going about it how I have - So far, does what I have seem correct??

    No spacer
    drill the starter hole using the early v6 style spacer
    assemble with clutch within height spec for bellhousing allowances
    and top 4 bolts are used, bottom 3 of larger pan/housing bolts are not provisioned - therefore not used

    Those are my theoretical steps I think I'm to make, I've worked on loads of 1.8ts, but not a 4.2L, and being that there's a couple slight differences, I just want to be sure

    thanks again

    B

  4. #4
    Active Member One Ring bkwrzdub's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 14 2022
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    681119
    Location
    Brantford

    I've also come across this post from titaniumdave in this thread on the 986forums

    http://986forum.com/forums/564048-post118.html

    He's stating that he's having a 3mm spacing issue to get the ring-gear lined up with the starter, I havent seen anyone else reporting this on their threads....

    perhaps I'll have to look for that 3mm crank spacer

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