1.8T Quattro Tiptronic slipping on peak boost

[xXxREBELOxXx]

Hey y'all, been a bit.

Got my car back after it being stuck at a shop for a month, went it for an alignment and wouldn't start on pickup. They eventually found the crank sensor was dirty and spark plugs were fouled, cleaned them up and it runs better for sure. In-fact I believe my crank sensor has been causing issues for a bit now with slightly rough cold starts, bad mileage, and inconsistent performance.
When I got my car back today I went for a long drive to celebrate getting my baby back, about an hour or so I decided to do a 2nd and 3rd gear WOT run to see if it gained back any hp. It did, and in 3rd gear after about 3500 rpm when my engine was in the better part of the power band; the rpms climbed quicker than normal to around 4K rpm during peak boost and held there as I kept picking up speed (think CVT behavior). After a second or two I let off realizing what happened, it's around -1C or 30F and it definitely gives my car more power as it has the stock SMIC and suffers heat soak but, even so I feel I shouldn't slip with the stock turbo. I always drive in tiptronic mode so the TC is usually locked over 30km/h, and it's noticeable when it slips.

Now I'm turning to you smart folk here on this forum that might know a thing or two about running more power reliably on a tiptronic. Is this really the limit of the stock transmission and TCU tune? or are the clutch packs going. Car has about 230,000km (143,000 Miles) and I don't think the transmission fluid & filter has been changed, I at least haven't done it for as long as I owned the car (6 years this March) out of fear it'd start to slip at the mileage it's at. Yeah I know, not the best thing but, I don't have disposable income in-case messing with the fluid causes issues even though not doing it can also cause issues. I was planning on a tune to run higher oil pressures for the clutch packs since that could help prevent slipping, and doing a fluid drain & fill initially after that.

Anyways enough of my ramblings, I appreciate any of you guys who can chime in! I plan on hitting the 300hp mark reliably so I definitely need to take care of this issue first... or maybe bite an expensive bullet and get a shop to do a 6spd swap lol.

[Darepoole]

Hey y'all, been a bit.

Got my car back after it being stuck at a shop for a month, went it for an alignment and wouldn't start on pickup. They eventually found the crank sensor was dirty and spark plugs were fouled, cleaned them up and it runs better for sure. In-fact I believe my crank sensor has been causing issues for a bit now with slightly rough cold starts, bad mileage, and inconsistent performance.
When I got my car back today I went for a long drive to celebrate getting my baby back, about an hour or so I decided to do a 2nd and 3rd gear WOT run to see if it gained back any hp. It did, and in 3rd gear after about 3500 rpm when my engine was in the better part of the power band; the rpms climbed quicker than normal to around 4K rpm during peak boost and held there as I kept picking up speed (think CVT behavior). After a second or two I let off realizing what happened, it's around -1C or 30F and it definitely gives my car more power as it has the stock SMIC and suffers heat soak but, even so I feel I shouldn't slip with the stock turbo. I always drive in tiptronic mode so the TC is usually locked over 30km/h, and it's noticeable when it slips.

Now I'm turning to you smart folk here on this forum that might know a thing or two about running more power reliably on a tiptronic. Is this really the limit of the stock transmission and TCU tune? or are the clutch packs going. Car has about 230,000km (143,000 Miles) and I don't think the transmission fluid & filter has been changed, I at least haven't done it for as long as I owned the car (6 years this March) out of fear it'd start to slip at the mileage it's at. Yeah I know, not the best thing but, I don't have disposable income in-case messing with the fluid causes issues even though not doing it can also cause issues. I was planning on a tune to run higher oil pressures for the clutch packs since that could help prevent slipping, and doing a fluid drain & fill initially after that.

Anyways enough of my ramblings, I appreciate any of you guys who can chime in! I plan on hitting the 300hp mark reliably so I definitely need to take care of this issue first... or maybe bite an expensive bullet and get a shop to do a 6spd swap lol.

Disclaimer I am by no means a tiptronic expert. The info I have is based off when I had a tip allroad which was awhile ago so I may be rusty. But It’s tough to say the extent of the potential damage. Since you are experiencing decent slippage it’s not a great sign. Transmission tunes only really help prior to excessive wear. Tunes increase valve body pressure and help with quicker engagement and less slippage. A slower engagement = more slippage more wear. The faster the shift the less amount of time the clutch packs are messing the less slippage = less wear. You could try a tune and a fluid change but you’d be running the risk of just band aiding the issue. For the cost it would take to rebuild your tip your better off swapping in an 02x 6 speed.

Edit: just for good measure pull codes from the car and post what shows of there is any. You should rule out other potential issues first.


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[xXxREBELOxXx]

Disclaimer I am by no means a tiptronic expert. The info I have is based off when I had a tip allroad which was awhile ago so I may be rusty. But It’s tough to say the extent of the potential damage. Since you are experiencing decent slippage it’s not a great sign. Transmission tunes only really help prior to excessive wear. Tunes increase valve body pressure and help with quicker engagement and less slippage. A slower engagement = more slippage more wear. The faster the shift the less amount of time the clutch packs are messing the less slippage = less wear. You could try a tune and a fluid change but you’d be running the risk of just band aiding the issue. For the cost it would take to rebuild your tip your better off swapping in an 02x 6 speed.

Edit: just for good measure pull codes from the car and post what shows of there is any. You should rule out other potential issues first.


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Yeah now I have to say it's rare, and I only noticed it this one drive so the clutch packs could be just starting to go. For sure getting a tune would be a band aiding things but, I would be inclined if it extends the time to failure. Problem is finding a good tune; which I found this tune by a company I haven't heard of before (link: http://tunedbygts.com/software/audi/a4-sw/b6-sw/s1tip). Otherwise it is hard unless I go custom which will add more cost. I'm hoping I misunderstood what happened in that 2 second time frame since it happened so fast, and I'm gonna go for a drive tonight to confirm if it does it again. For now here's the codes I pulled with VCDS:

Address 01: Engine Labels: 06B-909-518-AMB.lbl
Control Module Part Number: 8E0 909 518 F HW: 8E0 909 018
Component and/or Version: 1.8L R4/5VT G 0001
Software Coding: 0016751
Work Shop Code: WSC 13104 154 419398
VCID: 33331F657721995F07B-5160
11 Faults Found:

16523 - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor B1 S2
P0139 - 004 - Response too Slow
17522 - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor; B1 S2
P1114 - 008 - Internal Resistance too High
16517 - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor B1 S1
P0133 - 002 - Response too Slow - Intermittent
16684 - Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
P0300 - 008 - - Intermittent
16687 - Cylinder 3
P0303 - 008 - Misfire Detected - Intermittent
16686 - Cylinder 2
P0302 - 008 - Misfire Detected - Intermittent
16706 - Engine Speed Sensor (G28)
P0322 - 004 - No Signal - Intermittent
18010 - Power Supply Terminal 30
P1602 - 002 - Voltage too Low - Intermittent
17072 - ECM Power Relay Load Circuit
P0688 - 004 - Open Circuit
17951 - Angle Sensor 1 for Throttle Actuator (G187)
P1543 - 002 - Signal too Small - Intermittent
16795 - Secondary Air Injection System
P0411 - 002 - Incorrect Flow Detected

Readiness: 0000 1000

I will say I believe a lot of these codes are old and may no longer be an issue, such as speed sensor, and misfire. 2nd 02 sensor and SAI codes can be ignored as they aren't hooked up.

Thanks.

[Turbo510]

The clutch packs might be ruined at this point. Once they are slipping while transferring high torque, the plate temperature goes way up quickly. Pulling the trans pan would tell you if they are going bad; chips of phenolic clutch material or sludgy residue would be the sign. My daughter bought a 1.8T Jetta that was obviously chipped, and the clutch packs soon wore out. I ended up paying for a rebuild of the 5-speed automatic.

[xXxREBELOxXx]

The clutch packs might be ruined at this point. Once they are slipping while transferring high torque, the plate temperature goes way up quickly. Pulling the trans pan would tell you if they are going bad; chips of phenolic clutch material or sludgy residue would be the sign. My daughter bought a 1.8T Jetta that was obviously chipped, and the clutch packs soon wore out. I ended up paying for a rebuild of the 5-speed automatic.

Ah man that sucks, I really hope it's not burning up. I could take out the fill cap and smell for any burnt fluid.

I also forgot to mention that I scanned the TCU and the only code was for the tiptronic switch which is fine since shaking it between +/- and back to drive prevents it from losing track of the shifter.

[EuroxS4]

As with any issue. I would first make sure you dont have any leaks, and that the fluid level is correct. Start with the basics. Further more what you described sounds like the transmission is slipping. The transmissions in these older audi weren't great by any mean usually failure occurs anywhere between 110-150k miles give or take a few thousand depending wether it was highway miles or not. Stop and go is the worst.

Faults in engine show misfires, are you sure you dont have a issue with the engine and not the transmission? post any codes that may be in the TCU. Address word 02. Since you have vcds you can looks at MVB's or advanced measurements and look to see what the transmission is doing. I would recommend a second person for this or perhaps log the info using the built in logger. More or less if its slipping and the level is correct, that thing is toast in the sense. Clutches are probably worn, or you have a hydraulic issue where perhaps the pump is not applying adequate pressure to those clutches. It also wouldn't hurt to take a fluid sample. Post your finding also smell the fluid. If it's smells burnt or is really dark in color I'd say that's that time for a manual swap or another transmission.

That being said, I knw some will say to change the fluid and see what happens. This is a hail mary approach and should be done as a last resort. As a transmission that never had a fluid change is gonna have tons of particles floating inside it's case. If you decide to change your fluid know this. After a filter and trans fluid change you still may have the same problem, or you may now have a even worse problem then initially as the old fluid had particles suspended on it from wear, where as the new fluid does not. So you may now have really badly slipping transmission, that still needs to be replaced or it may be better, maybe 100% maybe just a little. It's a toss up really. Just wanted to put that out there.

In closing I would address the faults in the ecu to make sure you dont have a issue with a engine harness, coils, plugs or injectors first. As the engine and transmission need to work seamlessly in harmony to get a correct shift and feel.

Also sidenote if you havent change the timing bet of this car recently around 90-100k miles I would recommend to do that before it becomes a heavy paperweight. Just saying, when the timing belts pop on these they need valve and the cost of repairs is hell of alot more than a timing belt job. Keep us posted on what you find.

[Darepoole]

Yeah now I have to say it's rare, and I only noticed it this one drive so the clutch packs could be just starting to go. For sure getting a tune would be a band aiding things but, I would be inclined if it extends the time to failure. Problem is finding a good tune; which I found this tune by a company I haven't heard of before (link: http://tunedbygts.com/software/audi/a4-sw/b6-sw/s1tip). Otherwise it is hard unless I go custom which will add more cost. I'm hoping I misunderstood what happened in that 2 second time frame since it happened so fast, and I'm gonna go for a drive tonight to confirm if it does it again. For now here's the codes I pulled with VCDS:

Address 01: Engine Labels: 06B-909-518-AMB.lbl
Control Module Part Number: 8E0 909 518 F HW: 8E0 909 018
Component and/or Version: 1.8L R4/5VT G 0001
Software Coding: 0016751
Work Shop Code: WSC 13104 154 419398
VCID: 33331F657721995F07B-5160
11 Faults Found:

16523 - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor B1 S2
P0139 - 004 - Response too Slow
17522 - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor; B1 S2
P1114 - 008 - Internal Resistance too High
16517 - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor B1 S1
P0133 - 002 - Response too Slow - Intermittent
16684 - Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
P0300 - 008 - - Intermittent
16687 - Cylinder 3
P0303 - 008 - Misfire Detected - Intermittent
16686 - Cylinder 2
P0302 - 008 - Misfire Detected - Intermittent
16706 - Engine Speed Sensor (G28)
P0322 - 004 - No Signal - Intermittent
18010 - Power Supply Terminal 30
P1602 - 002 - Voltage too Low - Intermittent
17072 - ECM Power Relay Load Circuit
P0688 - 004 - Open Circuit
17951 - Angle Sensor 1 for Throttle Actuator (G187)
P1543 - 002 - Signal too Small - Intermittent
16795 - Secondary Air Injection System
P0411 - 002 - Incorrect Flow Detected

Readiness: 0000 1000

I will say I believe a lot of these codes are old and may no longer be an issue, such as speed sensor, and misfire. 2nd 02 sensor and SAI codes can be ignored as they aren't hooked up.

Thanks.

Judging by your faults I highly doubt what you are experiencing is your clutchpacks. All of those faults need to be addressed. With the faults you provided your car is not going to run right unfortunately. Your main and secondary 02 sensor have a fault which means your car is likely not calculating air fuel properly. Engine speed sensor fault means your speed sensor(crank sensor) is either faulty or loose. That can cause the tac to act goofy or not work at all since the ecu isn’t able to see the crankshafts position, this could be the fix the original symptoms you explained (the jumping revs). The sensor is toward the bottom right of the block and is susceptible to oil and coolant. I’ll list the rest
18010 power supply - this could mean your battery cables were recently removed or one of your terminals is loose or your battery is weak.
17072 ecm relay - symptoms would be coolant fan spinning even when the car is off. This could explain the power supply fault since this would drain your battery. Causes of this fault vary from failed relay to wiring issues to ecu problems.
17951 throttle body fault. Check throttle body wiring/relay
The secondary air faults I’ll skip for now since they aren’t that important.
Based off this information I’d say shift your attention away from the trans. The first thing id check is the crank sensor and ecm relay


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[xXxREBELOxXx]

As with any issue. I would first make sure you dont have any leaks, and that the fluid level is correct. Start with the basics. Further more what you described sounds like the transmission is slipping. The transmissions in these older audi weren't great by any mean usually failure occurs anywhere between 110-150k miles give or take a few thousand depending wether it was highway miles or not. Stop and go is the worst.

Faults in engine show misfires, are you sure you dont have a issue with the engine and not the transmission? post any codes that may be in the TCU. Address word 02. Since you have vcds you can looks at MVB's or advanced measurements and look to see what the transmission is doing. I would recommend a second person for this or perhaps log the info using the built in logger. More or less if its slipping and the level is correct, that thing is toast in the sense. Clutches are probably worn, or you have a hydraulic issue where perhaps the pump is not applying adequate pressure to those clutches. It also wouldn't hurt to take a fluid sample. Post your finding also smell the fluid. If it's smells burnt or is really dark in color I'd say that's that time for a manual swap or another transmission.

That being said, I knw some will say to change the fluid and see what happens. This is a hail mary approach and should be done as a last resort. As a transmission that never had a fluid change is gonna have tons of particles floating inside it's case. If you decide to change your fluid know this. After a filter and trans fluid change you still may have the same problem, or you may now have a even worse problem then initially as the old fluid had particles suspended on it from wear, where as the new fluid does not. So you may now have really badly slipping transmission, that still needs to be replaced or it may be better, maybe 100% maybe just a little. It's a toss up really. Just wanted to put that out there.

In closing I would address the faults in the ecu to make sure you dont have a issue with a engine harness, coils, plugs or injectors first. As the engine and transmission need to work seamlessly in harmony to get a correct shift and feel.

Also sidenote if you havent change the timing bet of this car recently around 90-100k miles I would recommend to do that before it becomes a heavy paperweight. Just saying, when the timing belts pop on these they need valve and the cost of repairs is hell of alot more than a timing belt job. Keep us posted on what you find.

Okay gotcha, will find some time to get the car in the air and start inspecting for leaks, and try to get a oil sample as well. Transmission fluid will be much later on for sure when I feel it is appropriate, and will likely do a small drain and fill without the filter first to feel the waters, then drop the pan and replace filter if it holds up a thousand miles or so. I do know my engine isn't 100%, and can likely cause what seemed like slipping. I have suspicions of a vacuum/boost leak but, the shop I go to hasn't found any the two times they've checked on separate occasions though I don't know if they tested at the turbo or at the TIP and I think if I have a leak it's to do with the DV to TIP. At least that would be what makes sense to me. I have a intercooler kit and replacement piping for DV system ready to do at the same time as my timing belt.
I know misfiring can have the rpms behave in a way where they just float, except I didn't notice any flashing CEL. That being said I cleared all codes from the Engine Control Module and went for a 30km or drive with only secondary 02 codes popping up, which I'm sure more will pop up as that isn't even enough mileage to complete the readiness check for emissions systems. I did get logs and things seem good in a controlled pull in one gear without shifting.
Also as for timing belt I bought the kit to replace it and the pump, tensioner, ect. I plan on doing that soon but, it is a daunting task in sheer amount of time and bolts to keep track of lol... also would dread if I somehow got the timing off by any degree even if it's not likely, so am procrastinating dangerously for the time being but, plan to do it before the better weather rolls around where the car will be driven more.

Thanks for the input, the help and suggestions are always appreciated

[xXxREBELOxXx]

Judging by your faults I highly doubt what you are experiencing is your clutchpacks. All of those faults need to be addressed. With the faults you provided your car is not going to run right unfortunately. Your main and secondary 02 sensor have a fault which means your car is likely not calculating air fuel properly. Engine speed sensor fault means your speed sensor(crank sensor) is either faulty or loose. That can cause the tac to act goofy or not work at all since the ecu isn’t able to see the crankshafts position, this could be the fix the original symptoms you explained. The sensor is toward the bottom right of the block and is susceptible to oil and coolant. I’ll list the rest
18010 power supply - this could mean your battery cables were recently removed or one of your terminals is loose or your battery is weak.
17072 ecm relay - symptoms would be coolant fan spinning even when the car is off. This could explain the power supply fault since this would drain your battery. Causes of this fault vary from failed relay to wiring issues to ecu problems.
17951 throttle body fault. Check throttle body wiring/relay
The secondary air faults I’ll skip for now since they aren’t that important.
Based off this information I’d say shift your attention away from the trans. The first thing id check is the crank sensor and ecm relay


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I'm also starting to think the clutch packs aren't as worn as I initially worried it would be, though I can't rule that out yet. I am going to try and address the engine related faults first though as you and EuroxS4 have a good point. The crank position/engine speed sensor shouldn't be an issue anymore for the time being (hopefully) and I believe the shop didn't clear these faults when finished cleaning the sensor and plugs, just unplug the battery as you pointed out with the 18010 code. I won't say it can't be a problem though and cleared module codes with my VCDS and went for a 30km drive without them popping up yet, and will continue monitoring to see if they come back. Also my rear main engine seal is weeping and I believe that could have been the cause to the crank sensor getting dirty in the first place now that you mention it being susceptible to oil/coolant, didn't think of that. Engine starts up much smoother than it had in the past.

As for the remaining codes you mentioned:

17072 - Funny you mentioned this, in the summer I always felt the rad fans came on late or improperly, IIRC both rad and AC condenser would come on at the same time or they would be off. Not 100% on that but, it did seem like it every time I checked. I replaced the temp sensor for the rad outlet or inlet since I got a code and to see if it would fix this, and I don't remember if that did but the intermittent code didn't come back. I don't think I ever heard the fans stay on after engine shutdown though.

17951 - Interesting, I had a EPC light come on after getting my car back letting it warm up for 5-10 minutes before driving home. No idea if these are connected but I will say I've never had only the EPC light come on and it hasn't come back after I cleared codes today and went for that long drive.

Will continue looking into the engine related issues and play it by process of elimination. Thanks for helping out btw!

[xXxREBELOxXx]

Okay all, I cleared fault codes and went for long drive while logging my transmission. After the drive only secondary 02 sensor faults came back I believe.
In terms of staying in a selected gear and doing a pull from 2k ish rpm to 5k or 6k, I got a reported slip of 0 rpm and nothing alarming got my attention. Torque converter seems to unlock, lock, and regulate slippage normally. However now that I'm done driving and think about it; when shifting gears the torque converter goes from locked to regulated slip (logically for smoothness), and I believe if it were to slip it would be during a shift while peaking boost. Reason I think that is when the clutch packs are slipping as intended during a shift, the higher than stock torque causes the clutches to maybe have trouble locking up again under the load. It is something to try and see if it has trouble re-locking during a shift at WOT.

I took 4 logs, 1st log is 2nd gear pull 2k rpm to 6k rpm and all looks good. 2nd & 3rd log is the same but in 3rd gear and all looks good there too. 4th log I took while driving home in the city just in-case I needed logs of normal driving, did not check that log yet.

The 3rd log which seems to have the clearest results; I took an image directly from excel to save anyone time checking out the log. https://imgur.com/a/fcsNhH0

I also wanted to say thanks to you all, I really appreciate the help I'm getting. Hopefully we can figure what's going on here.

[Darepoole]

Okay all, I cleared fault codes and went for long drive while logging my transmission. After the drive only secondary 02 sensor faults came back I believe.
In terms of staying in a selected gear and doing a pull from 2k ish rpm to 5k or 6k, I got a reported slip of 0 rpm and nothing alarming got my attention. Torque converter seems to unlock, lock, and regulate slippage normally. However now that I'm done driving and think about it; when shifting gears the torque converter goes from locked to regulated slip (logically for smoothness), and I believe if it were to slip it would be during a shift while peaking boost. Reason I think that is when the clutch packs are slipping as intended during a shift, the higher than stock torque causes the clutches to maybe have trouble locking up again under the load. It is something to try and see if it has trouble re-locking during a shift at WOT.

I took 4 logs, 1st log is 2nd gear pull 2k rpm to 6k rpm and all looks good. 2nd & 3rd log is the same but in 3rd gear and all looks good there too. 4th log I took while driving home in the city just in-case I needed logs of normal driving, did not check that log yet.

The 3rd log which seems to have the clearest results; I took an image directly from excel to save anyone time checking out the log. https://imgur.com/a/fcsNhH0

I also wanted to say thanks to you all, I really appreciate the help I'm getting. Hopefully we can figure what's going on here.

The log looks perfect for easier digestion I threw the input vs output data into google sheets. Ill also throw an example input vs output graph when slipping occurs. This is in a different car and 2nd gear but you will be able to see the difference. While I was there I also calculated gear ratio which calculated by input/output. Like the log shows it’s spot on.
First pic is from your log second is a slipping example.

Slipping Example

Gear ratio calculation

[xXxREBELOxXx]

The log looks perfect for easier digestion I threw the input vs output data into google sheets. Ill also throw an example input vs output graph when slipping occurs. This is in a different car and 2nd gear but you will be able to see the difference. While I was there I also calculated gear ratio which calculated by input/output. Like the log shows it’s spot on.
First pic is from your log second is a slipping example.

Slipping Example

Gear ratio calculation

Hey that's awesome news! Thanks for putting that all together for me, the data is much easier to take in with that graph for sure. Could have been something else then. When I have time I'll try logging while going through gears next time to double check it doesn't slip when re-locking the clutch between shifts, though from the looks of it I don't think I have much to worry about but, the peace of mind would be nice. Looks like I will be going with a TCU tune some time then since the transmission still seems okay, also would you advise against a drain & fill after the tune?

[Darepoole]

Hey that's awesome news! Thanks for putting that all together for me, the data is much easier to take in with that graph for sure. Could have been something else then. When I have time I'll try logging while going through gears next time to double check it doesn't slip when re-locking the clutch between shifts, though from the looks of it I don't think I have much to worry about but, the peace of mind would be nice. Looks like I will be going with a TCU tune some time then since the transmission still seems okay, also would you advise against a drain & fill after the tune?

Yeah I agree especially when you are looking at multiple values in multiple columns its super difficult to put things together. Graphing it is the move. As for the fluid service how many miles do you have on your car? It wouldn't hurt anything to replace it, also whether you do it before or after the tcu tune doesn't matter whichever you prefer. Also I did notice that your plug gap in your signature is .40. Stock gap is .32 why the .40? Id recommend you drop that to .28 which is pretty much the standard for flashed cars

[xXxREBELOxXx]

Yeah I agree especially when you are looking at multiple values in multiple columns its super difficult to put things together. Graphing it is the move. As for the fluid service how many miles do you have on your car? It wouldn't hurt anything to replace it, also whether you do it before or after the tcu tune doesn't matter whichever you prefer. Also I did notice that your plug gap in your signature is .40. Stock gap is .32 why the .40? Id recommend you drop that to .28 which is pretty much the standard for flashed cars

Oh for sure, and I have about 143,000 Miles. That's fair, in that case whenever it's convenient. I had it at .40 since the TFSI coils are stronger, and I'd get a bigger spark arc for a cleaner burn. I since lowered it to .35 and forgot to update my sig. I was getting misfires at 5K rpm WOT 4th gear and thought the boost was blowing out the spark but, now that I think of it it could have been the crank sensor.

[Darepoole]

Oh for sure, and I have about 143,000 Miles. That's fair, in that case whenever it's convenient. I had it at .40 since the TFSI coils are stronger, and I'd get a bigger spark arc for a cleaner burn. I since lowered it to .35 and forgot to update my sig. I was getting misfires at 5K rpm WOT 4th gear and thought the boost was blowing out the spark but, now that I think of it it could have been the crank sensor.

Yeah either the crank sensor or your 02 sensor could have caused that. You should do a log to see what your O2 sensors are reading

[xXxREBELOxXx]

Yeah either the crank sensor or your 02 sensor could have caused that. You should do a log to see what your O2 sensors are reading

Sorry for the late reply, had a busy weekend. Will definitely get some logs on the 02 sensor soon, for now I can tell you how it behaved a bit ago from memory. Last time time I checked what my 02 sensor was reading it was -1.0v to -1.4v under full throttle and could lean out to +2.4v highest when engine braking/no throttle. I think idle ranged a good bit from -0.5v to -1.0v from what I remember. wasn't sporadic but it would change a few hundred millivolts while idling. As soon as I get some actual logs on it I will post it here.