Jacob's (feeltherain's) G25-660 progress thread

[feeltherain]

Figured I should finally get around to writing up a build thread now that it's consistently below freezing up here in Maine, and my garage is not heated.

Here's my current mod list: 2/7/22
-IE H-beam rods
-Mahle PowerPak Pistons 82.5mm
-VASA freewheel
-IE crank gear
-FluiDamper crank pulley
-ARP headstuds, main studs, rod bolts, and cam girdle bolts
-Ferrea +1mm oversized valves
-Ferrea shims
-Ferrea valvesprings/retainers
-IE HPFP piston upgrade
-CTS turbo valve cover
-Mishimoto XL 3-port catch can
-JDL top mount manifold
-Garrett G25-660 .72ar
-custom 3" 409 Stainless v-band downpipe
-custom 3" Aluminum intake
-Luft-technic FMIC
-power steering cooler
-DW300 JHM fuel pump
-RS4 injectors
-175 BAR PRV
-200 BAR fuel rail sensor
-Tial 38mm MV-S with screamer pipe
-BC coilovers
-ECS black exhaust tips
-ECS black S-line trunk spoiler
-ECS black rear diffuser
-vacuum/boost gauge
-Innovate Oil temp and pressure gauge
-AEM Lambda gauge
-Maestro Eurodyne self tuned


I first got my 2008 Metallic Silver a4 b7 sedan around February of 2019. Through a fortunate series of events, my first car, a 2006 Hyundai Sonata, was totaled by a tow truck company who mistaking took it instead of another Hyundai. Decided settling out of court was easier, and they paid me $3000.

After finding out it was totaled, I started browsing through Craigslist and Facebook marketplace. I knew I wanted to switch over to a manual transmission. I looked at a V6 Altima, a Subaru outback, some Imprezas, but then I saw my future Audi listed at $3600 on Craigslist.

Figured there had to be something wrong with it at the price because it was in prestine condition. But after talking to the guy, he was just letting it go at the trade-in value that a dealership offered when he bought his new Q5.

I ended up having my mom and dad go pick it up for me since I was away at school and couldn't even drive stick yet. Then I finally got it a few days later.

*Insert first picture of car later*

After driving it for a while and getting comfortable driving manual, I got the itch.
I bought a 3" downpipe with a high flow cat from ECS and started looking at exhaust setups for the car. I was thinking I'd spend a couple hundred and be good to go. Little did I know stuff from JHM and like companies is expensive.

Rather than buying some pricey exhaust I knew nothing about, I decided to buy some exhaust parts I didn't know much about and paid a shop to fab up my cat back exhaust.

Attachment 261539

I went with a single 3" vibrant straight through resonator then splitting down to two 2.5" straight through magnaflow mufflers with some plain pipe as the tips (forgot to buy some lol)

Here are a couple shorts of the exhaust sound.
https://youtube.com/shorts/Jcmehd842Sc?feature=share
https://youtube.com/shorts/NB93Hio3v3E?feature=share

After having a meaner sounding car, I started doing more bolt on stuff. I ended up purchasing a Luft-Technic FMIC, CAI from ECStuning. While doing the FMIC I also installed a 034 motorsports adjustable rear sway bar. While doing the RSB I torqued the endlink bolts Gutentight and snapped one. I had to have my dad weld a nut on to pull it out.
Snapchat-1148767964.jpg

Amidst all that work I bought a pair of bi-xenons to joey mod and clear corner. While I had the headlights apart I decided to customize them a bit more. Since I no longer needed the reflective chrome for the city lights, high beams/DRLs and blinkers I scuffed all the chrome and painted it an anodized anthracite color using a base color and a sparkle effect out of a can. I then decided to paint the projector shroud a bright white color to allude to the idea of a halo around the light without actually running halos. To finish it all up I had ordered a water clear projector lens with the Audi logo and a honeycomb pattern etched into the glass.
Snapchat-762387301.jpg

To continue the exterior aesthetic mods, I bought an RS6 grille off eBay and started cutting up my S-line grille to have that nice honeycomb without a plate holder. Ran into an issue when gluing the grille into the surround. I had it laying on the ground which caused some bowing. When I popped it back into the bumper it broke some of the black caulking I used to hold it in. I didn't want to pull it apart and redo it all so I just ran 2 small screws through it to lock it down, and it has been sturdy since.
https://drive.google.com/uc?id=17iMc...balBajnSS-mCQs

I also painted my 17" S-line wheels black after sanding them down and filling old curb rash and dents.
<blockquote class="imgur-embed-pub" lang="en" data-id="a/tHHj6EU" data-context="false" ><a href="//imgur.com/a/tHHj6EU"></a></blockquote><script async src="//s.imgur.com/min/embed.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

I'll have to continue the history write-up later! I broke my old phone so I'm missing quite a few photos, I'll have to leave notes to add later when I recover my old photos

-JacobSnapchat-1471167603.jpgSnapchat-1286935587.jpgSnapchat-2085814641.jpg



After doing all this stuff, my little brother backed into my car and dented my rear passenger side door and pushed in the quarter panel. It rubbed hard so I had to grab ahold of it and pull it out for tire clearance. My parents offered to pay to fix it but I felt bad and decided it was no worry l. Since then I sanded the paint off and pulled out what I could with a stud welder, then with the help of a pencil and lots of sandpaper/body filler I repaired the body lines. I ended up just throwing primer and a light coat of gray paint to protect it until I was capable of repairing it.
https://imgur.com/a/9dSRDVI

[feeltherain]

Figured I would separate out the "stages" of my build.

After I did some custom cheaper stuff I had a pipe dream of buying a 2nd engine and doing a big turbo build, not knowing anything about the process or work involved. I ended up buying a 2nd a4 a 2006 Quartz gray sedan that was running a bit rough after the PO toasted a rod on the previous engine using 2 step from his no name OTS tune. Ended up buying the car and the old bent rod engine for $1800 total.
When I got the new car home I checked plugs because it was breaking up under boost. Their gap was huge, so I swapped out some new ones and the car ran great afterwards. I took apart that blown engine I got with the car and found that it only had a bent rod and all the bearings and cylinder walls were still in fantastic shape.

I decided to use this engine as the base for my build.

At this stage in the build I didn't have a clear destination or plan to get there. I had an OTS ECU tune and I loved the power increase but wanted a lot more. I looked through the classifieds to maybe get lucky with a setup, and ended up buying RS4 injectors and a GT2871r from Rhfosu. They got to me in fantastic shape.

One day I was 2stepping as you do for that instant gratification, and bent my #3 rod almost an entire 45*. Thankfully I was able to find a spare rod within 2grams of the original and just tossed the old bearings back in and called it a day. The engine was running perfect again.
https://imgur.com/ehnDid8

Now here is where I made two "uh-ohs".

Number 1 started when I bought my IE drop in rods to send to the machine shop with my forged pistons from a BPG.
I didn't realize until later but I had the SKU wrong and had bought non tapered rods for aftermarket Pistons.

The engine came back with fantastic clearances on all the journals and bearings, and p2w were in spec. I had told the shop I would be doing final assembly so he didn't notice the interference of the rods and pistons.

When I got everything home and started piecing it all together is when I realized my mistake. Mix match parts do not work together.

But, in for a penny in for a pound.

It was time to find some Pistons, so I decided I'd go with Mahle PowerPak Pistons at stock size. This happened in the middle of the height of COVID so there was an indefinite wait on the new Pistons. Luckily, I found a set here in the classifieds.

Once I got those in I started assembling my new engine.
Attachment 261548
While taking my time assembling the new engine, my oil pump went out while I was on the highway destroying the bearings and the entire head. Had to pick up the pace a bit.

I wish I had more photos from when I assembled the block, but they're stuck on my old busted phone.

At this point in the build I was still running my old stock head which held a 155 across the board on compression.

I painted and cleaned up my block and a bunch of accessories.
https://imgur.com/G7vZdG8

I put on my JHM lightweight flywheel and clutch combo, installed an IE HPFP upgrade and dropped it into the car.
Attachment 261546

After I had the new engine in and all hooked up I filled it with coolant and some Castrol Edge 5W-40 I normally use. I had left the battery on a trickle charger so I grabbed that tossed it in and flashed the stage 2 base file from Maestro. I then put in a stock oil filter, hooked up a manual oil pressure gauge to oil pressure sender and did 15-20 second cranking intervals until I had built pressure like 5 times in a row. Then I drained oil, replaced the oil filter and then filled the car with Amsoil Break-In oil and built pressure again. Once I saw it built pressure once again I put the coil packs and fuel pump fuse back. I turned key to ignition a couple times to make sure my LPFP was turning on and supplying pressure. Then while crossing my fingers I started it up. It took a few tries cranking it, not that it was stuttering and stalling. Then it suddenly sprang to life and was running in high idle/cat warm up sequence or whatever.

Once I made sure it wasn't leaking from anywhere I turned it off, got the bumper back on put my tools away and then started it back up, went driving. I let it warm up by doing some small ramps from like 1.5-3k back down to 1.5k. I kept doing that until it warmed up. I then went ahead and started to ramp runs up to 4 and 5k rpm being as light on the throttle as I could to try not to build much boost (hard with the K03). After doing that a few times I went to the high way to keep doing it since it was late and I could go from 30-70-30 without getting honked at.

After doing that for a little while I went to drive it back home, and was shifting to 4th and as I did my EPC light flashed and I felt this shudder. I Panicked and limped it the mile back home. There were no surprise leaks or anything when I got back, oil was ok, coolant was ok. The next morning I went to go start it and it would not start, not even stutter. I checked my compression and they were all 155 across the board (old used head, my new one brought compression up to 170). So I knew it wasn't catastrophic. I then went to check spark and after messing with it for a bit I would get 1 spark randomly every once and in a while and it wouldn't follow the coil pack or plug as I moved them around. I started continuity testing my coil packs, the crank position sensor (G28), and I even went as far as to depin part of my ecu harness and continuity check the whole harness following a 3 page pinout of the ecu for my car. After doing that and being stumped, I knew it had to be a hardware issue. I kept looking around and eventually I decided I was going to record the G28 sensor hole with my phone as I turned it over with a breaker bar. With that I had found my issue, the normal tooth gap had become a 7 tooth gap. The G28 was getting an implausible signal and was cutting ignition and fuel. After being depressed for a few days I pulled the engine back out and stripped it all the way back down to a bare block. When I took off the oil pump I saw that the trigger wheel on crank had clipped my oil squirter breaking that and twisting a piece of the trigger wheel right off to bounce around underneath my piston a couple time. Thankfully I had some spare oil squirters that had working spring valves. So I threw that in and started looking at my piston. Thankfully it just hit piston and the cylinder walls were unharmed somehow, but the piston now had some gross aesthetic nicks.

I assumed that in all the travelling with the crank, 2.5 hours each way in a car, a couple weeks in a machine shop, it had bent the trigger wheel. So I started looking online for a new one and could only find a single website selling one from the UK. Bought that with fast shipping, then used red locktite and my 3/8 battery impact to put those trigger wheel bolts in. I had seen on VWvortex that some people actually weld them in but that wasn't an option for me. I then just did assembly all over again and flushed it with oil and then had to buy more break in oil and was able to finish out my break in period by doing exactly what I was doing for like 50 more miles. I then did an oil change with Amsoil european FS 5W40 and an Amsoil filter.

After enjoying the car for a bit, I decided I was ready to get the big turbo setup finished. I looked into some turbo manifolds and came across the JDL top mount manifold and I was in love. I saved a bookmark for it with a Tial V-band.

After getting paid the next week I hastily pulled up their website and paid for one. 6 weeks later and I was the happy owner of a shiny new manifold.
Attachment 261637
Once I got it, I realized I made my 2nd "uh-ohs". In my haste I didn't double check the flange I selected and accidently had them build the manifold with a G series flange.

Rather than having a shop cut and weld a new flange and losing my lifetime guarantee on the manifold, I figured I already acknowledged i was in for a penny in for a pound, so I listed the GT 2871r on Facebook for what I paid. I then started looking at a G25-550 from Garrett and some clones for like half the price. I decided that I shouldn't cut any corners and settled on Garrett. When I went to buy the G25-550 on MAPerformance I saw that they had the G25-660 on clearance! It was listed at $1600 instead of $2200, so I stepped up in a size and saved $600.

A very long week later and it came in.

https://imgur.com/yfVUEOf

After getting the 660, I figured I needed to build my head to take full advantage of its power band. I picked up a full Ferrea Valve train set with shims, new rockers and new lifters, and new seals. I sent the head out to have the seats cut, head decked, and carbon cleaned then I assembled it at home.
Attachment 261648

Once I got the head back I put it on with the turbo to start fabricating lines, exhaust, and intake.

Attachment 261649

I went and picked up a mitre bandsaw at harbor freight with some different blades so I could start cutting aluminum and steel. I cut a bunch of 9* pie cuts(4.5* each side). I then just played arts and crafts with the pie cuts lining them up with a sharpie and tape. After getting everything all lined up with tape, I brought it to Willis Fabrication here in Maine and he was able to weld all the taped together pie cuts with no issue.

https://imgur.com/uHqMRZC
https://imgur.com/IQRg08r
https://imgur.com/gO3tVIp

Once I got everything home I started putting it all on the car and realized I made a mistake. I didn't think to check the clearance between the downpipe and my Tial wastegate. The downpipe was rubbing on the top of the gate. I was going to buy a 90 to move the gate down and then redo the downpipe, but that would have taken a while to get parts in. Instead, since I'll be using my N75 in a bleed off configuration with the MV-S gate, I don't actually need to worry about the top part of the gate. I ended up sanding it down until there was no rubbing (probably would have self clearances eventually anyway). Even better I didn't even go through the top of the gate.

While I was doing this I also installed my RS4 injectors, 175 bar PRV, and 200 bar rail pressure sensor.

After it was all put back together
Attachment 261654

At this point there were 800 miles on the clutch and block.

[feeltherain]

Once I got everything installed, I pulled up my stage 2 Maestro tune, changed my Injector constant and added a bit of extra fuel into my Injector constant to be safe since I could only guess how much more air might get in with the new turbo. I figured running a bit rich on the first start would be better than a bit lean. After getting the tune flashed, I pulled turbo feed, and pre oiled turbo by hand spinning it with oil in the feed hole, and then turned over engine until oil was coming out of feed line and then hooked it back up and got it ready for first start.

When I first started it I was blown away by just how loud the G series turbos whistle on cold start is. It sounds like the car is gonna take off even when I go inside my house. The whistle is intoxicating though.

At this point I had the turbo boost tap routed straight to the wastegate to see how much boost a 1 bar spring would end up making. After driving it around for a while making sure I had no leaks or random issues, I started trying to build a little bit of boost and ended up making ~15psi real fast before I let off. I did not quite expect it to boost so quickly. After a couple full heat cycles I decided to finally ramp into full boost to see what it would do. Found out with a 1 bar spring in wastegate made 21-22psi of boost and held it there. Didn't have any noticeable boost creep in logs.

After seeing it was safe to run with boost wise, I hooked up my N75 in a bleed off configuration and set my boost duty map to 0 across the board so it won't ever bleed off and make more boost.

Then I installed a 3 Bar map sensor and messed with the scaling for that for a bit before finding that Ericpaulyoungs offset and scaling worked for me for now.

It was time to mess with my VE so I followed Mec's guide on VE with maestro and got a pretty smooth curve going with it a little over so it never tries cutting power.

[PhireSideZA]

Nice! Keeping an eye on this one.

[Jay-Bee]

New to a B7 and diving straight into Maestro, i like it.

I built a similar custom exhaust for mine with resonators and magnaflow mufflers turned out nicer than anything else i've heard, all stainless with pro TIG welds and v-bands.

[feeltherain]

If you want some tunes for maestro I have all of them. All of EPY tunes ended up in my mail box years ago.

You may want to reconsider 20 psi on new engine. These new pistons u used are known to wobble cold. If you didn’t warm the engine up on Dino oil for a few hundred miles you’ll be back in there replacing rings really soon. Happy to see a Garrett boosted beauty coming to be but you missed multiple steps for first start or you didn’t document here.

Thanks for the concern, I just forgot to go over my break in procedure. I just added this in to the original post.

"After I had the new engine in and all hooked up I filled it with coolant and some Castrol Edge 5W-40 I normally use. I had left the battery on a trickle charger so I grabbed that tossed it in and flashed the stage 2 base file from Maestro. I then put in a stock oil filter, hooked up a manual oil pressure gauge to oil pressure sender and did 15-20 second cranking intervals until I had built pressure like 5 times in a row. Then I drained oil, replaced the oil filter and then filled the car with Amsoil Break-In oil and built pressure again. Once I saw it built pressure once again I put the coil packs and fuel pump fuse back. I turned key to ignition a couple times to make sure my LPFP was turning on and supplying pressure. Then while crossing my fingers I started it up. It took a few tries cranking it, not that it was stuttering and stalling. Then it suddenly sprang to life and was running in high idle/cat warm up sequence or whatever.

Once I made sure it wasn't leaking from anywhere I turned it off, got the bumper back on put my tools away and then started it back up, went driving. I let it warm up by doing some small ramps from like 1.5-3k back down to 1.5k. I kept doing that until it warmed up. I then went ahead and started to ramp runs up to 4 and 5k rpm being as light on the throttle as I could to try not to build much boost (hard with the K03). After doing that a few times I went to the high way to keep doing it since it was late and I could go from 30-70-30 without getting honked at.

After doing that for a little while I went to drive it back home, and was shifting to 4th and as I did my EPC light flashed and I felt this shudder. I Panicked and limped it the mile back home. There were no surprise leaks or anything when I got back, oil was ok, coolant was ok. The next morning I went to go start it and it would not start, not even stutter. I checked my compression and they were all 155 across the board (old used head, my new one brought compression up to 170). So I knew it wasn't catastrophic. I then went to check spark and after messing with it for a bit I would get 1 spark randomly every once and in a while and it wouldn't follow the coil pack or plug as I moved them around. I started continuity testing my coil packs, the crank position sensor (G28), and I even went as far as to depin part of my ecu harness and continuity check the whole harness following a 3 page pinout of the ecu for my car. After doing that and being stumped, I knew it had to be a hardware issue. I kept looking around and eventually I decided I was going to record the G28 sensor hole with my phone as I turned it over with a breaker bar. With that I had found my issue, the normal tooth gap had become a 7 tooth gap. The G28 was getting an implausible signal and was cutting ignition and fuel. After being depressed for a few days I pulled the engine back out and stripped it all the way back down to a bare block. When I took off the oil pump I saw that the trigger wheel on crank had clipped my oil squirter breaking that and twisting a piece of the trigger wheel right off to bounce around underneath my piston a couple time. Thankfully I had some spare oil squirters that had working spring valves. So I threw that in and started looking at my piston. Thankfully it just hit piston and the cylinder walls were unharmed somehow, but the piston now had some gross aesthetic nicks.

I assumed that in all the travelling with the crank, 2.5 hours each way in a car, a couple weeks in a machine shop, it had bent the trigger wheel. So I started looking online for a new one and could only find a single website selling one from the UK. Bought that with fast shipping, then used red locktite and my 3/8 battery impact to put those trigger wheel bolts in. I had seen on VWvortex that some people actually weld them in but that wasn't an option for me. I then just did assembly all over again and flushed it with oil and then had to buy more break in oil and was able to finish out my break in period by doing exactly what I was doing for like 50 more miles. I then did an oil change with Amsoil european FS 5W40 and an Amsoil filter."


I would love to look through some of those files, I've been trying to follow the breadcrumbs through audizine, VWvortex and nefmoto. Should I PM you my email?


Sent from my Pixel 6 Pro using Audizine Forum mobile app

[feeltherain]

Anyone know what file hosting site works best with imbedding images? I was using the Audizine app and some of the photos already broke.

[feeltherain]

Been busy lately, gonna be starting a new job soon, going to be working at an Audi/VW Dealership actually (Discount OEM parts when I inevitably break more shit).

I have continued messing with my VE table and I am currently sitting with it looking like this with the help of Mec's Max VE post. Maximum VE Table.png
Right now I have my wastegate connected to my N75 with a zeroed out boost duty map in maestro so I just run off wastegate pressure still. With that in mind I made this VE table after installing a 3bar map sensor and using an offset and scaler I found in a post made by EPY, it tricks the ecu to be able to control up to about 30 psi when it thinks its 21ish. I started bumping VE up whenever I hit or exceeded engine load specified, which actually seems to be max allowable engine load for a given RPM. I had to lower it a bit at the low end just because the 660 can't boost like the stock k03 can. Since I am just running based off my wastegate spring I flattened the VE curve after it opens since it holds that boost straight to redline (I've only ever seen it creep by like 1-2psi at worst just before 7k). Here is a 3rd gear pull onto the highway when I was dialing in my Max VE table.

https://youtu.be/StrQlcwXPtw

Now that I have a basic curve that won't limit the engine from exceeding expected torque I started increasing and smoothing my fuel rail pressure map so I could take advantage of my 175bar PRV. But I am having this issue where the car will NOT go over 138bar requested. It will spike to the 175bar on lift after a pull, where it then opens the PRV. I had been searching so many different phrases and questions about rail limit and couldn't find anything until yesterday. I was looking into tuning tips for running the IE manifold and happened to see CanadianA4B7 posted a picture of 3 different tunes with different maps available within them. I saw that one of them had a "Rail Pressure Limiter" map. I am assuming that my cars maestro tune which I built off the Stage 2 file they had for my ECU (115G) is limited to running 138bar on the fuel rail. If I could get the map unlocked/added to my maestro suite I should hopefully be able to unlock a shit ton more fueling so I can finally start tuning boost control and a higher boost map. Has anyone had luck emailing or contacting Chris Tapp himself or Eurodyne in recent years for help with maestro? If I am not able to get that rail limit removed/increased I'll have to get my car tuned by another company or I won't be able to really let this turbo breathe.
Fuel Rail Pressure.png

After giving up on my fuel rail issues, I wanted to make sure I wouldn't run into any LPFP supply issues. I was running my R8 fuel controller and JHM DW300 kit on the stock map and it wouldn't hold pressures until redline. After some messing around I got it to hold anywhere between 5-6bar through the pull but now it idles at 6bar even though my pressure map says to be at 5bar at idle. I'm not super sure how these two maps work together yet so I just messed around until I got something that did at least some of what I needed.
LPFP maps.jpg

I'm at a point where I am just trying to work on drivability and street manners for the car (part throttle jerkiness), which is proving harder than I thought. Trudging through logs trying to decide if I should smooth injector correction out more, adjust MAF corrections, or work on my Alpha N and Throttle Plate flow. I've just been walking into these rabbit holes hoping one leads me somewhere. But in the meantime whenever I have the oil up to operating temp I love stomping on the gas.

[feeltherain]

It's 65* F here in Maine right now so I finally decided to rip out my driver seat and bypass the yellow airbag igniter plug. I had bypassed the igniter plug on my passenger seat when I first put in my S4 B6 recaros about a year ago. But when my Airbag light popped back up for the driver side I never got around to it because it's been too cold and wet for me to pull out the seat and do wiring with cold fingers. Now my Airbag light is finally off again.

Since last time I decided to set all my Injector corrections to 1 and started adjusting the injector constant with my LTFTs so I can get more driving data per correction compared to maestros logging of 02 correction which maxes out around 45-60mins of logging or so. I got it to +1.4% ltft and then multiplied my Injector constant by 1.01 to add just a hair more fuel.

After that I went and started logging my 02 correction in maestro and am now tracing those onto my flowmeter correction map because my intake is much different than the stock intake and probably messes with my MAF. I'm hoping that will also help with my part throttle cruising which is bit jerky sometimes.

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[vrooyehj1]

Hi
Where u able to upgrade to the 200bar fuel rail pressure sensor?

[feeltherain]

Yeah, you can run the 200 bar map sensor pretty easily. It's a bit hard to reach, but it can be replaced without removing anything. I believe it was a deep socket 12 point 27mm or 37mm that could slip over the plastic connector and grab the base. They're usually orange for the 200bar sensor.

iirc it is a 3 pin 5v sensor so it needs to be scaled properly. I ended up giving up on maestro and went with motoza after running into a number of missing necessary maps during the tuning process. Keep in mind, if you're going to raise the fuel pressure, that you may reduce the life of your follower or run into some odd injector behavior since the pressure is higher than intended. That's why my tuner with maestro is keeping me around 150bar or so.

Unfortunately I've had many setbacks and a busy couple years so I never kept this updated. Happy to answer any questions though

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[texasboy21]

Yeah, you can run the 200 bar map sensor pretty easily. It's a bit hard to reach, but it can be replaced without removing anything. I believe it was a deep socket 12 point 27mm or 37mm that could slip over the plastic connector and grab the base. They're usually orange for the 200bar sensor.

iirc it is a 3 pin 5v sensor so it needs to be scaled properly. I ended up giving up on maestro and went with motoza after running into a number of missing necessary maps during the tuning process. Keep in mind, if you're going to raise the fuel pressure, that you may reduce the life of your follower or run into some odd injector behavior since the pressure is higher than intended. That's why my tuner with maestro is keeping me around 150bar or so.

Unfortunately I've had many setbacks and a busy couple years so I never kept this updated. Happy to answer any questions though

Sent from my Pixel 6 Pro using Audizine Forum mobile app

How is the car running with Motoza?

[AudiB720TS]

Would be great to see some pics. Can you revisit these attachments using https://imgur.com/upload ?

[vrooyehj1]

Hi
I see that u used EPY's scaling 510 and 170 for the 3 bar map sensor and worked for u. I also used it but does not work so nice with my setup. Dit u copy his Boost PID table from his tune with the 3 bar map scaling settings or did u use the stage 2 Boost PID map?

[feeltherain]

How is the car running with Motoza?

Car had been running very well lately, and we're just ironing out the final timing tables but I ran into some oil leaks I need to take off before we can continue. I originally had rs4 injectors that I was running out of steam with because my maestro didn't have the map for adjusting the max fuel pressure limit, so I was stuck at 140bar regardless of how I adjusted my request map. When I moved over to motoza we tried some turbo 911 injectors which started up great and would have had plenty of flow, however, we were unable to get them dialed in. Always seemed to sputter and break up under boost. I picked up the injectors from bartek tuning and unfortunately could never get in touch for more info to assist motoza tuning them. We ended up moving on to a set of S3 injectors I had kicking around since I didn't want to go back to rs4 cold starts.

Motoza has got this thing running better than I ever did, although to be expected. I've only got good things to say about these guys, they've put up with lots of questions and little mistakes along the way.

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[feeltherain]

Would be great to see some pics. Can you revisit these attachments using https://imgur.com/upload ?

I can try at some point. The engine is due to be pulled out at some point so I can fix all the little issues that have been piling up. I can get new pictures of how everything sits then

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[feeltherain]

Hi
I see that u used EPY's scaling 510 and 170 for the 3 bar map sensor and worked for u. I also used it but does not work so nice with my setup. Dit u copy his Boost PID table from his tune with the 3 bar map scaling settings or did u use the stage 2 Boost PID map?

I actually adjusted the boost pid tables myself. I was running at gate pressure of 20psi, hoping to eventually move up to 30, but the fueling issue stopped me. Iirc, for most of the time when I was running maestro I had my table zeroed out, essentially cutting out my n75. There were a couple times where I tried peaking at 27 and tapering down towards redline due to the fueling limitations. But I was walking the line of not having any fueling overhead, so I ended going back to gate pressure since I was too lazy to change my waste gate springs.

It's been a while since I looked through his post on that. Iirc the map scaling is slope intercept y=mx+b. You could probably tweak it so the values line up where you need them to.

Sent from my Pixel 6 Pro using Audizine Forum mobile app

[vrooyehj1]

Hi
Did u run with the standard Maf Housing or did u went with a larger Maf housing. I currently run with a 3" Maf housing and I think my scaling is not correct. I run around 5-to-7-degree less timing as per load/rpm in my timing maps.
I think I will run mafless for now so I can dial in my Ve map and timing maps. Currently my requested boost and actual boost pressure does not match up and my Boost duty is almost 85%. At 3000 rpm my requested ve load is 164 kpa but I can only reach up between 93 and 98 load.

[AudiB720TS]

Can you fix the images in the previous posts? I’d like to see the exhaust manifold and the turbo installed, but I am unable to see the images you have added as attachments. Thanks

[vrooyehj1]

Hi
Did u run external wastegate and if u did how did u hooked up your wastegate plumbing to the N75 valve?

[feeltherain]

I had some time to sit down and go through some old photos. Unfortunately my old phone (dead) had a lot of these photos and I didn't have them backed up on my pc. Here is a bit of a photo dump of what has been going on with the car in the last couple years.

https://imgur.com/Jg25iI4

My a4 was my daily at the time, and over time had a weird lean issue, which kept getting worse, eventually it got to the point I couldn't drive it anymore and dove into the car and found my cracked manifold welds. I ended up reaching out to Mike at ringer racing and he was gracious enough to mediate between me and JDL. I was able to send out my manifold and they rewelded it for me. In the meantime I bought a 2004 Passat wagon which I had to daily in the meantime.

https://imgur.com/gVDy9KI

I wanted to swap the shell for the car and ended up finding a blown up Titanium edition A4 which I drove about 6 hours each way for. Unfortunately the pictures I had didn't quite capture the state it was in, but figured I could make it work. I ended up water leaks, mouse damage, some water damage, a lot more corrosion than I initially thought. I stripped the entire interior down and removed the engine/trans, both subframes and the gas tank to wire wheel the corrosion before coating in POR-15.

https://imgur.com/AY00Mn4

Ended up cleaning up and painting both subframes before pressing in solid subframe bushings and poly differential bushings.

https://imgur.com/eJGkxZ1

A couple months after I picked up that Titanium edition A4, this car popped up on market place 30 minutes from my parents house. Facebook profile was sketchy but I couldn't risk it not being a scam since the price was right. Drove down and picked this up the next week. Was on St coilovers, cts k04 turbo, 18z front swap, Vossen wheels and carbon interior. The clutch was SMOKED and would slip just cruising in 6th gear on the highway and sometimes even in 5th. Most importantly, this car had been garage kept for years from both the previous owners. It sucked that all the rust prevention work I did on the Titanium was for naught, since I was now going to swap everything over to this much nicer shell, but I figured I could repurpose the parts in this nicer car to rebuild the Titanium before selling it. This was the time when my friend suggested I refer to my two black A4s as High car and Low car in reference to Donut's hi/lo series.

https://imgur.com/kkfCDol
https://imgur.com/FlJPomX
https://imgur.com/lYlIgLy

Around the same time I finally pulled the trigger on getting my 18z calipers powdercoated in preparation for installing on the car. I was with a prismatic powders Lambo Green, and absolutely love the gold flake in the green. I hadn't sourced a set of viper parking brake calipers before I sent them off for powder coat, so I am still just running the factory black on the parking brake calipers, but that isn't not a big deal to me.

https://imgur.com/Bs0mOYx
https://imgur.com/9rQPZ0X

Once I got the new car back to my house, my buddy offered to wash, clay and ceramic the car for me (I'd rather be wrenching than cleaning most days). It ended up looking great, other than some orange peel from where the car had some repainted spots. I've got an IOU from that buddy to buff and polish it at some point to address that though. I also like this picture since you can see 3 of the 4 B7 A4s I've had.

https://imgur.com/y6YXLub
https://imgur.com/Inq91Io
https://imgur.com/KtGH0rC
Unfortunately I don't have a bunch of pictures from when I swapped my big turbo/built engine over to "High car".

https://imgur.com/kmU4a5v
After doing the swap and driving around "High car", I installed an iabed oil filter housing with an integrated oil thermostat and 1.8t oil pump conversion. This filter housing utilizes a MLS gasket the iabed worked with elring to make, in contrast to the original filter housing using an o-ring. I work at an audi/vw and have access to the elsa for the repair manuals and was just mindlessly going through grabbing torque specs without even thinking that an MLS gasket is going to require a higher clamping force than an o-ring. If I had read my emails more thoroughly I was have seen that iabed had told me the spec when he sent over the housing. Since I used the factory torque spec, the mls gasket didn't fully seal resulting in coolant making its way into my oil pan. I had the car idling in my drive way checking for leaks. After some time I realized my coolant was going down but I didn't have any leaks. I shut the engine off and thought it over before realizing I had filled my sump with coolant. I drained the oil and was bewildered to see just how much coolant was in the sump. I got another gasket from iabed and then flushed about 4 gallons of oil through the engine afterwards to clear everything out. At the time I didn't know, but the damage had been done from idling my car so long. I took it for some drives and everything had seemed fine, but during some logging pulls for Motoza I heard a weird noise and then my oil pressure light came on on decel coming to an idle. I shut it off and coasted into the nearest parking lot, verified my oil level was fine and then hesitantly started it up. I didn't hear any weird noises so I carefully drove home. On the way home the oil pressure light started coming on at stoplights about half the way there, but still no noise. As I was pulling into my neighborhood I started hearing the knocking. At that point I saw fuck it and just made it home and parked it. Pulled the engine out through it on the stand and dropped the pan to find all that bearing material. Looking back I wish I stopped as soon as I heard the knock, because the extra bit I drove completely destroyed the bearing and ended up taking my crankshaft and cylinder 2 connecting rod. Thankfully I had a spare crank I sent to the machine shop to get polished and then I had to swap my oil pump drive gear and install a pilot bearing adapter that a member on here makes. Unfortunately, IE doesn't sell individual rods though, so I ended up purchasing an entire new connecting rod set. On the bright side I've got 3 spares now since they are balanced very closely.

https://imgur.com/W8yf41b
https://imgur.com/AbaJ850
https://imgur.com/nsEtyxs
https://imgur.com/sTESG4N
https://imgur.com/XZ8MSOs
While I was waiting on the IE rods which were on a bit of a backorder, I decided to install a true focus fabrication oil cooler, did a custom battery relocation to the trunk and tidied up some of the plumbing for recirculating valve (BPV). Once I got the new rods I reassembled the engine with even nicer main and rod bearings for peace of mind, and replaced my 1.8t oil pump with a 1.8t race oil pump from bartek that supposedly flows about 20-25% more due to gear modifications. Since then the engine has been running great and I've gotten a lot more tuning done with Motoza but this past fall my oil pressure gauge sensor was leaking and I developed another mystery oil leak. Personal life has been so hectic though, so the vehicle has mostly been sitting.

I finally got my reupholstered headliner into the car as well, but will have to grab pictures of later once I have time to finalize the sunshade and reinstall trim and sunroof glass.

[feeltherain]

Here are the 3 previous B7 A4s I have owned in one picture as of last fall. The silver one on the right was the car I learned to drive stick in and was what antagonized my interest in cars. The gray on the left was my second which is what I learned to work on cars with and came with a spare engine when I bought that was used as the foundation of my built engine. The black one in the middle was the one I drove 12 hours for that was in rough shape. It is no stretch of the imagination that I had over 100 hours into fixing that car between the rust repair, panel replacements, undercoating, engine rebuild, suspension rebuild, subframe swaps, interior repair from water leaks, and wiring repairs from mice (there was actually a living one in it when I started gutting the car). All three have now been sold, two of which went to friends of mine, and the black one went to a coworker at my dealership. Surprisingly, the hardest one to let go wasn't my silver one that I learned to drive stick on, but the black one that brought back to life and daily drove for some time.
https://imgur.com/R0pN4qi

Here is a picture of my current a4 as of a few months ago
https://imgur.com/FR49yG3

[feeltherain]

Hi
Did u run with the standard Maf Housing or did u went with a larger Maf housing. I currently run with a 3" Maf housing and I think my scaling is not correct. I run around 5-to-7-degree less timing as per load/rpm in my timing maps.
I think I will run mafless for now so I can dial in my Ve map and timing maps. Currently my requested boost and actual boost pressure does not match up and my Boost duty is almost 85%. At 3000 rpm my requested ve load is 164 kpa but I can only reach up between 93 and 98 load.

I have been running with the stock MAF and housing the whole time. Unfortunately I'm not too well versed in maf scaling. If you're using maestro it could be an issue with your timing maps. The timing maps I could modify with maestro didn't have any effect on timing my car actually requested of itself. I tried raising and lowering timing and even doing a flat ignition timing table for my low timing and high timing maps and nothing ever changed. I never had any luck with getting support from eurodyne either. I think the issue might come down to the definitions of the tables that maestro provides. It would have been nice if they used the actual map names like "KFFDLBTS" and then we could reference BOSCH material to learn exactly how those maps are applied to the tune.

- - - Updated - - -

Can you fix the images in the previous posts? I’d like to see the exhaust manifold and the turbo installed, but I am unable to see the images you have added as attachments. Thanks

I added as many photos as I could dig up, unfortunately I lost a lot from my old phone. Still had issues with embedding them, but I do have imgur links!

[feeltherain]

Hi
Did u run external wastegate and if u did how did u hooked up your wastegate plumbing to the N75 valve?

Yes, I run an old tial 38mm wastegate dumped straight down beneath the axle. I have the N75 plumbed in a bleed off configuration. So if I'm making 14psi (wastegate pressure) and my N75 isn't being commanded at all then the wastegate opens at 14psi. Once we start opening the third port on the N75 then some of that pressure is bled off so the wastegate sees less of that pressure and doesn't open the wastegate flap so more of the exhaust is directed through the turbo, raising boost levels.