Cylinder 5 Issues (The Dreaded Cylinder 5 Misfire)

[Shane Horning]

Yeah , there is a problem. There is too much evidence out there on the FB pages to deny that cylinder 5 doesn't fail at a higher rate then the others. I just think less people are posting on Audizine these days and more people are using Facebook. I actually disagree with the statement about this not scaring people off. I see more and more people recommending to the new guys to stay STG1 on. People are also commenting to stay off of E40 and of all things people recommending APR software to the new guys is making a come back.

I will say apr stage 2+ was reliable on these 3.0 cars. Also epl has a good reputation also. I know of 3 guys who switched from either apr or EPL to 034 and blown their engines in the next 3 months. But 034 is making more power

[RoofRails]

I like the 034 videos... but to have them "laugh" at the idea that there is even a problem... c'mon.

They may not wanna invest the R&D money, which I get. But that doesn't mean there isn't a problem. Just admit you don't wanna help solve it.

I agree its extremely annoying. These guys also said that ported blowers may add 20hp tops so I take some of what they say with a grain of salt. I get it , they run a business and talking about blown cylinders on that live chat probably isn't good for business but losing people that may not buy the STG 2 upgrade or go with another tune all together because its cheap and they don't want a E40 file now cant be good for business either.

This platform was pretty slow to develop into what it is now. I'm not saying that its easy but there is a pretty solid road map out there now to take a full weight, street tire S4 into the 10s that I don't think existed 5 years ago. So we are without a doubt making more power as a platform then we did in the past. Now we just need more fuel and possibly a tweak to the file (if that's a possibility) that would offer some more protection against the detonation that's smashing up our ring lands.

[RoofRails]

I will say apr stage 2+ was reliable on these 3.0 cars. Also epl has a good reputation also. I know of 3 guys who switched from either apr or EPL to 034 and blown their engines in the next 3 months. But 034 is making more power

I'm not ready to say APR is safer at this point because its not apples to apples. In my opinion this failure is related to fueling and since APR doesn't have a E40 file the likely hood of running out of fuel is much less. If you want to make a record pass in a APR vehicle your going to be doing it with 104 octane gas and there is plenty of head room left on the gas files.

Were the 3 people that switched and had engine failures you mentioned running E40 ?

[wes8398]

From what I've seen in my many EPL logs; I'd say those fellas write a much safer file in terms of fueling as well. One factor - I think - is that IIRC, the OEM enrichment program remains in tact; which I don't think a lot of OTS tuners do.

[mahhdd]

I created a spreadsheet that's completely open for ANYONE with this link to edit. Eventually I'll do away with this link. For now, can everyone please load their stuff in???

Please edit a bit more if you see a good thing to add.

Everyone can start keeping their eyes out for additional failures.

Shane Horning, can you please load in whatever you know about the 5 motors on the 034 tune?

LINK TO 3.0T FAILURES: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets...9JY/edit#gid=0

[mahhdd]

I will say apr stage 2+ was reliable on these 3.0 cars. Also epl has a good reputation also. I know of 3 guys who switched from either apr or EPL to 034 and blown their engines in the next 3 months. But 034 is making more power

Can you forward them that link?

[Fresh.S4]

Yes it is a problem. I have 5 3.0s engines in the garage with no compression on cylinder 5. Unfortunately I haven't had time to disassemble them but from bore scope it appears same issue as the fellows above. Yes I've heard of other cylinders going but most are #5

Dude what in god's name are you doing collecting so many bricked engines lol

[Fresh.S4]

Also doesnt epl have a straight e85 file??
My car came with a loaded apr suite and with a hpfp I was running e40 daily on the stage1 100oct file/206mm/ported with zero issues. I'm now on 034 E40dp

[Shane Horning]

Dude what in god's name are you doing collecting so many bricked engines lol

2 of them I bought the cars with bad engines and other 3 I swapped fresh engines in for customers

[Shane Horning]

Can you forward them that link?

I don't have a link but one of the fellows had b8 s4 running epl e40, switched to 034 and a few weeks later bank 2 completely disintegrated, pistons and rods broken. Again I'm not blaming 034 for this. Then a apr car on dp 93 switched to 93 034 and lost #5 compression later in the season, had been on apr for 3 years prior to that. And another epl 93 car switched to 034 93 and soon had an eng fail but I haven't pulled the car in yet to see the exact issue. Screenshot_20220324-074008_Photos.jpg

[wes8398]

Also doesnt epl have a straight e85 file??

Ummmmmmm, no. lol

I don't have a link but one of the fellows had b8 s4 running epl e40, switched to 034 and a few weeks later bank 2 completely disintegrated, pistons and rods broken. Again I'm not blaming 034 for this. Then a apr car on dp 93 switched to 93 034 and lost #5 compression later in the season, had been on apr for 3 years prior to that. And another epl 93 car switched to 034 93 and soon had an eng fail but I haven't pulled the car in yet to see the exact issue. Screenshot_20220324-074008_Photos.jpg

Well aren't those some interesting experiences for consideration. I knew there was a reason for my man-crushing on Tony and Chris.

[Fresh.S4]

Ummmmmmm, no. lol

i realllllly thought i read somewhere that they did. because yes i too thought that was crazy

[Chris@EPL]

Also doesnt epl have a straight e85 file??
My car came with a loaded apr suite and with a hpfp I was running e40 daily on the stage1 100oct file/206mm/ported with zero issues. I'm now on 034 E40dp

Yes we do have full E85, but we really recommend our E40 tunes.

[wes8398]

i realllllly thought i read somewhere that they did. because yes i too thought that was crazy

My apologies, Fresh.S4!! I wasn't aware. I can't even get E85 within hours of me, so I admittedly don't pay very close attention. I shouldn't have been so sure with my reply.

[mahhdd]

I don't have a link but one of the fellows had b8 s4 running epl e40, switched to 034 and a few weeks later bank 2 completely disintegrated, pistons and rods broken. Again I'm not blaming 034 for this. Then a apr car on dp 93 switched to 93 034 and lost #5 compression later in the season, had been on apr for 3 years prior to that. And another epl 93 car switched to 034 93 and soon had an eng fail but I haven't pulled the car in yet to see the exact issue. Screenshot_20220324-074008_Photos.jpg

This link: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets...9JY/edit#gid=0

We're looking for as many documented cases as we can get.

If anyyyyyone hears of a popped motor, please let them know there's a spreadsheet that needs some info plugged in it.

[brax]

Bump…. Up for a great thread 🍻

[rwood]

dam, just got my s4 a few weeks ago and was planning to go at least stage 1 till i upgrade the clutch.... think i am going to keep things factory for now and keep an eye on this thread, seems most of the issues are on tunes cars, i mean.......whats going on with these tunes are they too lean under boost? should we just get in the habit of changing injectors at a normal service interval weather they are good or bad? has anyone had the injectors bench tested after engine failure?

[RoofRails]

dam, just got my s4 a few weeks ago and was planning to go at least stage 1 till i upgrade the clutch.... think i am going to keep things factory for now and keep an eye on this thread, seems most of the issues are on tunes cars, i mean.......whats going on with these tunes are they too lean under boost? should we just get in the habit of changing injectors at a normal service interval weather they are good or bad? has anyone had the injectors bench tested after engine failure?

Im not sure if anyone has tested their injectors after a failure. My guess would be no because there is very little post failure investigation done from what i have seen. These injectors cannot be properly flow tested on a port injector test unit although it looks like plenty of people do it anyway. I spoke to a gentleman that offers GDI injector testing / cleaning and he said they don't flow test the injector before cleaning it because the process of testing a GDI is much more involved and it would double the time they spend on each injector. I'm sure you could request them to do it and pay extra. I'm just passing along something I learned the other day. He also said our injectors are way more robust then the BMW GDI ones so there's a win for Audi / Continental !

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[BrokeBichB8]

In general most cylinder ring failures are attributed to,
A) A lack of oil or quality of oil
B) Cylinder washout

Running ethanol is know to degrade oil quality from blowby mixing. Additionally, in order to meet AFRs a lot more fuel enters the cylinders and promotes washout. This along with the fact that its a "middle" cylinder so there is extra heat inherently, its easy to see how with a low quality/low viscosity oil, e40 fuel that is very "dry" and devoid of lubricant, and a few other nuances like a great DA mixed with a small air bubble in the coolant system, leads to a perfect storm of high temp friction on the ring.

One can point the finger at 034 but you gotta admit, the people presenting these blown motor issues arent the most thoroughly documented and present on the social outlets, when it comes to having a blown vehicle. If your daily driver blew up, would you just post some pictures, say "oh man oh jeeze" and have a nice day? or would you be ranting on every platform available about how you logged the day before and have proof of a properly maintained and controlled motor going Ka-Blewy.

I'm subscribed because this platform rocks and there is always good to come of congruent minds, but its very hard to say its the tune.

[rwood]

In general most cylinder ring failures are attributed to,
A) A lack of oil or quality of oil
B) Cylinder washout

Running ethanol is know to degrade oil quality from blowby mixing. Additionally, in order to meet AFRs a lot more fuel enters the cylinders and promotes washout. This along with the fact that its a "middle" cylinder so there is extra heat inherently, its easy to see how with a low quality/low viscosity oil, e40 fuel that is very "dry" and devoid of lubricant, and a few other nuances like a great DA mixed with a small air bubble in the coolant system, leads to a perfect storm of high temp friction on the ring.

One can point the finger at 034 but you gotta admit, the people presenting these blown motor issues arent the most thoroughly documented and present on the social outlets, when it comes to having a blown vehicle. If your daily driver blew up, would you just post some pictures, say "oh man oh jeeze" and have a nice day? or would you be ranting on every platform available about how you logged the day before and have proof of a properly maintained and controlled motor going Ka-Blewy.

I'm subscribed because this platform rocks and there is always good to come of congruent minds, but its very hard to say its the tune.

im not saying it is the tune for sure.... it seems like most of the posts are cars that are tuned tho....which makes sense, most people who have an s4 on this forum probably have stage one tune so its tough to say whats going on there really isn't enough data. It looks like alot of these "ring failures" are caused by detention which i would not attribute to an oil issue. that cylinder is running hotter/ leaner for whatever reason.

[mahhdd]

dam, just got my s4 a few weeks ago and was planning to go at least stage 1 till i upgrade the clutch.... think i am going to keep things factory for now and keep an eye on this thread, seems most of the issues are on tunes cars, i mean.......whats going on with these tunes are they too lean under boost? should we just get in the habit of changing injectors at a normal service interval weather they are good or bad? has anyone had the injectors bench tested after engine failure?

Failures can happen on OEM equipment.

Cylinder #5 doesn't normally become an issue until you start making loads of power (Stage 2 and Stage 2+)

The factory fuel system is more than adequate to provide Stage 1 power levels; but, you can still have a HPFP on the way out or dirty injectors... These can be caught with logging... So, you still need to log your car for the important stuff (034's logger catches things like IATs, HPFP cycle, fuel pressure, injector pulse, knock, fuel trims, etc).

I'd do a before tuning and after tuning log. Send them BOTH to your tuner and they can do a health check.

034 says that the Brisk spark plugs are likely to melt before a ring does. This is theoretical; but, this theoretical safeguard could very easily save a motor.

My opinion is you can go Stage 1 safely with limited worries... Just plan on being smart... Log it, quality fuel only, intake, an exhaust mod, upgraded HX, new plugs, quality oil, top off oil every 1k miles, monitor coolant levels, watch for coolant consumption, watch for excess oil consumption. These motors normally consume 1 quart every 3-5k miles. Instruct whoever does your oil changes to watch for pink or a chocolate milkshake fluid on the change.

After all of that.... then go stage 1... That's the order of operations to have a healthy and safe modding experience

Check this thread out: How to Not Blow Your Motor Thread

[MSq5]

In general most cylinder ring failures are attributed to,
A) A lack of oil or quality of oil
B) Cylinder washout

Running ethanol is know to degrade oil quality from blowby mixing. Additionally, in order to meet AFRs a lot more fuel enters the cylinders and promotes washout. This along with the fact that its a "middle" cylinder so there is extra heat inherently, its easy to see how with a low quality/low viscosity oil, e40 fuel that is very "dry" and devoid of lubricant, and a few other nuances like a great DA mixed with a small air bubble in the coolant system, leads to a perfect storm of high temp friction on the ring.

One can point the finger at 034 but you gotta admit, the people presenting these blown motor issues arent the most thoroughly documented and present on the social outlets, when it comes to having a blown vehicle. If your daily driver blew up, would you just post some pictures, say "oh man oh jeeze" and have a nice day? or would you be ranting on every platform available about how you logged the day before and have proof of a properly maintained and controlled motor going Ka-Blewy.

I'm subscribed because this platform rocks and there is always good to come of congruent minds, but its very hard to say its the tune.

I admit to not knowing the likely cause or contributing factor to the ring land failures or the piston/cylinder #5 issue. I do have a base of knowledge of this issue on other platforms.

It seems to me that the cylinder "wash" of which you speak would be mitigated and actually reduced by the cylinder cooling effect of running rich AFRs under high boost/high load conditions. Yes, there may be fuel dilution of the oil, again mitigated by strict discipline on oil changes.

What may be happening is too much timing advance in the face of higher stage 2 dual pulley tunes raising cylinder temperatures. If the engine is running at or near the ragged edge of the abilities of the high pressure fuel pump to maintain a safe commanded fuel pressure, then the ECU widens injector pulse width to try to compensate by substituting a longer injector spray duration to try to maintain target AFR. This means reduced atomization of the charge, pooling of fuel on piston tops, formation of hot spots and too much heat for the ring lands. Engines with very thin low drag compression rings much closer to the piston top are more vulnerable.

It only takes a micro second, actually a nanosecond, of drop in rail pressure followed by recovery for this to happen. You might not even capture the combination of events (nanosecond drop in rail pressure, simultaneous widening of the injector spray duration to try to maintain AFR) on a data log unless you have very high resolution refresh rate) or just get lucky. Your log might "look good" but failed to capture things happening that quickly.

Combine this with manifold design which may cause one or more cylinder to flow differently or run hotter (our cylinder #5?) and bad things can happen.

Just my somewhat informed soeculation. It seems to me that the risk would be reduced by actually running a bit richer AFR and being a bit more conservative on boost under maximum load, which is likely to be at the highest torque part of the power band and not necessarily at redline. Of course, dirty injectors that fail to well-atomize the spray pattern would tend to produce the same scenario.

[Fresh.S4]

Failures can happen on OEM equipment.

Cylinder #5 doesn't normally become an issue until you start making loads of power (Stage 2 and Stage 2+)

The factory fuel system is more than adequate to provide Stage 1 power levels; but, you can still have a HPFP on the way out or dirty injectors... These can be caught with logging... So, you still need to log your car for the important stuff (034's logger catches things like IATs, HPFP cycle, fuel pressure, injector pulse, knock, fuel trims, etc).

I'd do a before tuning and after tuning log. Send them BOTH to your tuner and they can do a health check.

034 says that the Brisk spark plugs are likely to melt before a ring does. This is theoretical; but, this theoretical safeguard could very easily save a motor.

My opinion is you can go Stage 1 safely with limited worries... Just plan on being smart... Log it, quality fuel only, intake, an exhaust mod, upgraded HX, new plugs, quality oil, top off oil every 1k miles, monitor coolant levels, watch for coolant consumption, watch for excess coolant consumption. These motors normally consume 1 quart every 3-5k miles. Instruct whoever does your oil changes to watch for pink or a chocolate milkshake fluid on the change.

After all of that.... then go stage 1... That's the order of operations to have a healthy and safe modding experience

Check this thread out: How to Not Blow Your Motor Thread

Wait were supposed to normally consume that much coolant???? Or did you mean oil?

[mahhdd]

Wait were supposed to normally consume that much coolant???? Or did you mean oil?

Oil*
Fixed.

[BoogieB7]

Apologize if I’m going off topic of where this thread is going. I recently lost compression in cylinder #1. It smoked like a james bond car after test pipes were installed on decal and lost a quart of oil every few hundred miles. I haven’t had to rebuild a bottom end before so I was wondering everyone’s opinion if I should just slap new rings on since there isn’t any damage to the cylinder walls. With 100k miles on the block, should I be rehoning the cylinders and redeck the block/heads?

[dalmation53]

Apologize if I’m going off topic of where this thread is going. I recently lost compression in cylinder #1. It smoked like a james bond car after test pipes were installed on decal and lost a quart of oil every few hundred miles. I haven’t had to rebuild a bottom end before so I was wondering everyone’s opinion if I should just slap new rings on since there isn’t any damage to the cylinder walls. With 100k miles on the block, should I be rehoning the cylinders and redeck the block/heads?

You can't honed this block. You would need to re sleeve it and put bigger pistons. I have a used block for sale if you need it. 20220502_002432.jpg

[MSq5]

You can't honed this block. You would need to re sleeve it and put bigger pistons. I have a used block for sale if you need it. 20220502_002432.jpg

Could he not just sleeve the damaged cylinder, bore to standard size and replace that piston with OEM standard size piston?

[sepheroth86]

Could he not just sleeve the damaged cylinder, bore to standard size and replace that piston with OEM standard size piston?

I believe that is how it is done with large diesel engines.

[hardfive]

The block itself is a silicone alloy called Alusil and can be honed, but it would be at high end rebuilder as more common on Porsche, Mercedes, and some BMW engines.

The block would be bored, honed, and either sleeved or silicone lapped. If you dont sleeve, the bored surface is too rough and will result in poor sealing at the rings and increased friction. You need to remove aluminum but leave the silicone at the surface of the cylinder wall to create a ultra smooth surface. Lapping does this without changing the overall bore and is why you need a specialty shop.

This machine work is gonna be expensive, and now you need a full custom build to match the new bores. 944 builds do this so cost is somewhat known (12-15k+) and it makes no sense when the built motor has zero support, no fun bits to play with, and used motors are 4,500 bucks.

Oleg doing some cool stuff but at this point its all one off custom stuff which most people just dont have the appetite and wallet for.

Cool read if you want to go ham
https://www.electrosil.com.au/pdf/KS.pdf

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[hardfive]

I believe that is how it is done with large diesel engines.

Large diesel engines have liners that are designed to be replaced.

In order to sleeve just one cylinder, bore it to oem spec, then find an aftermarket piston is probably possible if money is no issue, but with used motors being so cheap...

The linked repair pdf above says its possible to repair 1 cylinder theoretically but still may be an engine specific limitation on the 3.0t.

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[BoogieB7]

Could be the route I’ll have to go with, how many miles are on the block?

[BoogieB7]

Appreciate the response, yeah I was hoping to not go with upgraded internals since this platform hasn’t reached the level where I’d need to. I have 2 machine shops in the area that work with BMWs and VWs but seems like not many people have done rebuilds on these engines before even in these forums. The only used engines I’ve found are either 85k+ miles for $4500 or $6k+ for reasonable amount of miles. I started having issues around 90k miles if not longer since it wasn’t smoking till i took the cats out so I’m hesitant to go buy something used with the same amount of miles

[hardfive]

Appreciate the response, yeah I was hoping to not go with upgraded internals since this platform hasn’t reached the level where I’d need to. I have 2 machine shops in the area that work with BMWs and VWs but seems like not many people have done rebuilds on these engines before even in these forums. The only used engines I’ve found are either 85k+ miles for $4500 or $6k+ for reasonable amount of miles. I started having issues around 90k miles if not longer since it wasn’t smoking till i took the cats out so I’m hesitant to go buy something used with the same amount of miles

Rereading you need to determine why you have no compression. Did you leak down test cylinder 1 to see where the air was escaping? Or get a tiny camera and scope it. A valve could cause complete loss of compression.

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[BoogieB7]

When I first got the misfire issue I swapped all the plugs and coils to see if it moved to another cylinder. I then changed the injector to go in order of cheapest fixes. I then did a compression test and that cylinder was down to 50 while the other were in the 130-140 range. I didn’t do a full leak down after getting warning from a big Audi/vw shop months ago when it starts smoking that it’s definitely my rings. I pretty much drove the engine as long as I could before this happening. With the engine all apart I don’t see any damage to the valves but I will be doing new springs and seals just incase. Mostly my only hurtle is rehoning the block if possible since it has no scoring, other than that I will be changing everything from chains/guides to thermostat/water pump. Price of parts to change everything to make this a 0 mile motor it cheaper then buying a motor that’s got 80K+ miles

[hardfive]

When I first got the misfire issue I swapped all the plugs and coils to see if it moved to another cylinder. I then changed the injector to go in order of cheapest fixes. I then did a compression test and that cylinder was down to 50 while the other were in the 130-140 range. I didn’t do a full leak down after getting warning from a big Audi/vw shop months ago when it starts smoking that it’s definitely my rings. I pretty much drove the engine as long as I could before this happening. With the engine all apart I don’t see any damage to the valves but I will be doing new springs and seals just incase. Mostly my only hurtle is rehoning the block if possible since it has no scoring, other than that I will be changing everything from chains/guides to thermostat/water pump. Price of parts to change everything to make this a 0 mile motor it cheaper then buying a motor that’s got 80K+ miles

Smoke certainly could be rings, but smoke on deceleration is also a sign of worn valve seals.

Everything above really has to do with potentially fixing a cylinder that has been scored significantly. No point in sourcing another block if yours is rebuildable. 130-140 is below/at the wear limit so it sounds like a good step regardless of cylinder 1s issue.

You can hone with paste if the cylinder scratches are all minor (cant catch a figernail). No bore means no lap. If you were feeling bold you could do the hone yourself (smothing out the silicone surface) with some specific parts and a standard drill. Felt pads and paste wont change the bore so as long as you dont scrape metal on metal cant really do any harm. Or you could do nothing and likely be fine since the original finish isnt damaged.

Is your block apart and have you inspected the piston and rings? Backside of the intake and exhaust valves on cylinder 1 look same as others? Not many people tear down on this platform so would be interesting to see what you find.

https://redirect.viglink.com/?format...25208-5-11.pdf

Screenshot_20220622-004314_Drive.jpg

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[MSq5]

Smoke certainly could be rings, but smoke on deceleration is also a sign of worn valve seals.

Everything above really has to do with potentially fixing a cylinder that has been scored significantly. No point in sourcing another block if yours is rebuildable. 130-140 is below/at the wear limit so it sounds like a good step regardless of cylinder 1s issue.

You can hone with paste if the cylinder scratches are all minor (cant catch a figernail). No bore means no lap. If you were feeling bold you could do the hone yourself (smothing out the silicone surface) with some specific parts and a standard drill. Felt pads and paste wont change the bore so as long as you dont scrape metal on metal cant really do any harm. Or you could do nothing and likely be fine since the original finish isnt damaged.

Is your block apart and have you inspected the piston and rings? Backside of the intake and exhaust valves on cylinder 1 look same as others? Not many people tear down on this platform so would be interesting to see what you find.

https://redirect.viglink.com/?format...25208-5-11.pdf

Screenshot_20220622-004314_Drive.jpg

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Excellent post. Most good engine rebuilding machine shops will have the standard Sunnen fixed vertical cylinder honing equipment to both hone to oversize and also have the AN-30 finish hones for this type block.

[BoogieB7]

Someone I met recently told me when he rehoned his RS4 block he used a special honing bit on a drill. I might go that route then since the block seems to be in good shape so far and it really doesn’t have a crazy amount of miles, I’ve only recently got over 100k miles on it. Also yes I’ve taken the heads off and haven’t seen any damage to the valves. I will be tearing down the block within the week most likely so I can inspect the piston since I have seen on forums of pistons getting damaged. I will most likely be changing mostly everything mechanically moving inside the motor besides pistons, rods and cams. I’ll throw some pictures in here when I take some

[hardfive]

Here you go boss. Definitly diy-able if you're handy.

Like I said though metal on metal is only real risk so be careful.

Take lots of pics please.

https://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...-Alusil-Blocks

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[Denniskelley]

IÂ’ll post a longer one here tomorrow.

Just found this thread :)

IÂ’m having misfires with .. cylinder 5 :-/

IÂ’m fully built - almost all modes but run gas only 93Â…

My car is a 2015 s4 nogaro blue with 54K miles on it when it happen

Running on APR tune “ultra charger”

I log my car / I change my oil every 3,000 miles with mobile 1 / and send my oil to black stone labs - every oil change

They even found my SC inner cooler leaking before Audi dealership did (imagine that) “I never seen a SC inner cooler leak before, you’re my first. So with our asking we replaced …. One side” says the sales manager …. Month later the other side leaks …

Back on topic and I need to go back to work.

Happen around 125mph? shifting gears
I down shift from 125 to 110mph then WOT to about 140mph and it popped and went into limp mode.

Car has the extra water pump and reservoir with a triple bypass heat exchange from Alpha Performance - never had a heating issue.

My exhaust is GIAC full - with resÂ’s, down pipes and the black Diamond 104mm ? I think it was called the touring edition ?
Catless - wrapped test pipes.
Stock thermostat (isnÂ’t leaking)
Stock water pump (still strong)
About 4 sets of supercharger inter coolers
Rebuilt bearings / supercharger oil change
Pcv replaced
GIAC CAI with stock filter
Only used stock oil filter
Every upgrade to suspension that 034 makes Â….. even the skid platesÂ….
Shocks are KW v3 with linear springs
Pulley is AMPR FLUID Â… or what ever they are called thatÂ’s balance I think 187
And the CTC supercharger pulley ??? Maybe forge motor supercharger pulleyÂ…

Car never overheated Â…. (Live in Alaska)
Happen on a nice hot dry day in July maybe august (I can check exact date, bought a fridge) it was about 62 degrees out around noon..

Drove my car home Â… in limp mode Â….
And now when I start my car it doesnÂ’t like me :-/ but if I bring my rpmÂ’s up to around 2500 I get nice smoke coming out of my tail pipe Â…

I did a carb cleaning / fuel injector cleaning and new rubbers and seal and what ever comes in the kit Â…

Changed out spark plugs every 10k miles
Changed out coil packs at the same timeÂ…
Currently running BLUE APR COILS
NGK (stock ones, not the other ones, the 8Â’s)

Just replaced the sport diff fluids / trans mission fluids / wheel bearings and hubs /

And was about to replace the center brace for the drive shaft with the upgraded ECS one Â…. But my car is just dead in my garage Â….

I looked into the valves with a bore scope and they look good Â… even cranks by hand no problem Â….

About to do a leak down test and a coolant test - but IÂ’m not a mechanic Â… I can just follow you tube with the best of them :-/


FYI - Alaska only has 91 octane Â… I use to buy VP gas and mix to get a true 93 .. itÂ’s like 2.5 gallons of the 109 in a tank of gasÂ…

PS - I drive my car like a stole itÂ…
Cylinder 3 was the coolant leak from super charger
I always have misfires (like 8 in a cylinder max per drive) once in a blue moon i would have no misfires in a cylinderÂ…

Was in an accident - car hit me at a red light :-/ rear ended me - $20,000 in damages Â… he was wearing flip flops and shorts in November driving - a forest green Subaru
Cost so much because I have my car 3m outside and second skin inside (sound proof) plus the shop said to make it back to the way it should be they cut and welded the back to match factory lines Â… and they had to pay for a deval carbon fiber diffuser- lol and the kw v3 shocks and the 034 springs - GIAC exhaust mufflers , then I made them replace the control arms and wheel bearings and hubs Â… told them canÂ’t be to sure - I should have asked for a new sport diff Â… I mean he did hit me like 25 mph Â… and I didnÂ’t know the seat belts lock and have to be replaced ?!?! Luckily airbags didnÂ’t go off

Ok ok sorry got carried away - just this is my first Audi … and last cause this left a sour taste… I don’t get how a “known” issue doesn’t get highlighted and talked about … I mean I knew all the other “little things” except the supercharger inner coolers …

Wanted a 2021 RS6 nogaro blue and just leave it stock for warranty reasons Â… but when Audi TD1 my car when it came in for a recall issueÂ… and this cylinder 5 happen in 2021 (yes my car been sitting in my garage for a year, I just couldnÂ’t figure out what was wrong,) looks good lol

Everything sucks about this car - except I got my childhood dream car - when i first saw one in 1995 RS2 nogaro blueÂ… said I wanted one and then in 2015 they released the s4 with matching interiorÂ… I mean I jump on it especially for 30% off msrp (seriously)

IÂ’m just sad about this car - I held Audi higher then the things they put me through

Sorry about the rant - IÂ’ll post a proper post tomorrow

[xTysonx]

........

Ok ok sorry got carried away - just this is my first Audi … and last cause this left a sour taste… I don’t get how a “known” issue doesn’t get highlighted and talked about … I mean I knew all the other “little things” except the supercharger inner coolers …

.......

IÂ’m just sad about this car - I held Audi higher then the things they put me through

Sorry about the rant - IÂ’ll post a proper post tomorrow

You modified the crap out of your car and it broke. I don't see how that's Audi's fault. That's the potential downside to modifying any vehicle.