Getting a "Engine Start System: Malfunction" Code on my 2017 S3

[nanogreys3]

Like the title says, yesterday I got a "Engine Start System: Malfunction! Please Contact Service" code on my 2017 S3.

When I went to get into my car after work, I immediately noticed that the door wouldn't unlock from me touching it, and I could see this message flashing on my cluster, without me even unlocking the car, or getting in. I had to use my fob to unlock the car. The car started like normal, and drove like normal all the way home, other then showing this error message with a picture of the key, and intermittently beeping at me and displaying the warning when I slowed to a stop.

On the way to work today, the car was fine, no error message, and unlocked like normal when I touched the handle. However, on the way home from work, again I had the same error message.

When I got home today, I tried using my other fob, and also swapped in a new battery. I'm still getting the same warning, and I'm still not able to unlock the doors by touching the handle, I have to use the fob.

I did tune the car about 2 weeks ago with a Cobb AP and EQT Stage 1 ECU and TCU tune, which hasn't given me any trouble until now, but I doubt this is related. I've attached a picture of what the error message looks like.

Any idea on what is going on, and how to fix this? Of course this happens 3 months after my car is out of warranty, so I'd like to avoid a trip to the dealership if possible, but I feel like that's probably where this is headed.

Thanks for any help!audi-a3-premium-2018-waub8gff6j1094450-img8.jpg

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[MikTip]

Sounds like the main battery...hown old is it?. Can you volt meter it?

[nanogreys3]

Sounds like the main battery...hown old is it?. Can you volt meter it?

I'd assume it's the original from 2017, but I'm not sure. I got the car in March of 2020, so I'm guessing the battery wasn't replaced before I got it. I'll take a look tomorrow and see though.

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[glintoz]

It will be the battery almost 100% certain. I just had issues with mine and eventually Audi replaced it under warranty. Like you Ihad to use the key fob to unlock the car. Next time you have to use the key fob to open the door, check the interior light - it probably won’t come on. Then go and open the rear door and the light will come on - yeah weird I know.

The issue is that the car prioritises starting the engine over other functions so door modules and other bits and pieces get shut down to make sure the car can start itself.

I tested the battery, alternator everything and Audi originally said the battery was fine and in fact I agreed with them as it seemed to hold a charge. After hours of testing and checking a friend and I thought the alternator ‘smart charging’ was busted.

In the end I took a 6 page document to Audi along with videos of the issue occurring and they finally gave in and replaced the battery and all the problems disappeared.

[nanogreys3]

It will be the battery almost 100% certain. I just had issues with mine and eventually Audi replaced it under warranty. Like you Ihad to use the key fob to unlock the car. Next time you have to use the key fob to open the door, check the interior light - it probably won’t come on. Then go and open the rear door and the light will come on - yeah weird I know.

The issue is that the car prioritises starting the engine over other functions so door modules and other bits and pieces get shut down to make sure the car can start itself.

I tested the battery, alternator everything and Audi originally said the battery was fine and in fact I agreed with them as it seemed to hold a charge. After hours of testing and checking a friend and I thought the alternator ‘smart charging’ was busted.

In the end I took a 6 page document to Audi along with videos of the issue occurring and they finally gave in and replaced the battery and all the problems disappeared.

Thanks for the response, that's super helpful! I'm going to go get my battery tested today after work if I have the time. Hopefully it tests bad, i hate throwing money at a problem when the issue is unknown.

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[glintoz]

You could also have something that is connected to the permanent battery supply and it is draining the battery while the car is shut off. Have you recently connected something to the permanent supply? Cobb AP or dash am etc?

You will also find that just replacing the battery isn’t enough, you need to have the new battery coded so the charging system knows it is a new battery.

Also, sometimes it takes a couple of starts for the car to work out there is no longer an issue.

Keep in mind that it depends on how the battery is tested, it needs to be more than just a basic voltage test as mine was looked fine with a basic voltage test but it was definitely the cause of all my issues.

Good luck

[nanogreys3]

You could also have something that is connected to the permanent battery supply and it is draining the battery while the car is shut off. Have you recently connected something to the permanent supply? Cobb AP or dash am etc?

You will also find that just replacing the battery isn’t enough, you need to have the new battery coded so the charging system knows it is a new battery.

Also, sometimes it takes a couple of starts for the car to work out there is no longer an issue.

Keep in mind that it depends on how the battery is tested, it needs to be more than just a basic voltage test as mine was looked fine with a basic voltage test but it was definitely the cause of all my issues.

Good luck

Nope nothing connected, AP has stayed disconnected in the glovebox, and I don't have a dashcam.

Interestingly enough, the car is now behaving perfectly fine. No error warning anymore, and the doors are unlocking normally when I touch the handle.

So I feel kinda stuck. I'm happy the car is back to normal, but I'm just waiting for it to act up again. The battery is over 4 years old at this point, the date on it is 7/17, so it is the original one. I see 2 options, replace the battery and see if that was the problem, or just keep driving it and see if it happens again, with the possibility it could strand me at some point if it is the battery going bad.

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[glintoz]

Mine was also intermittent. It started with a message in the virtual cockpit when I started the car that “battery is low and will charge while driving” it got progressively worse.

A friend lent me a 12v socket based voltage meter and I got to the point where I could predict the problem with needing to use the key fob rather than the comfort access to open the door.. If the voltage varies when on throttle (12.x volts) and off throttle (14.x volts) then it was fine but as soon as the alternator went into permanent charge mode (14.x volts) whether on or off throttle the problem would occur after the next 1 or 2 starts.

[XMetal]

Nope nothing connected, AP has stayed disconnected in the glovebox, and I don't have a dashcam.

Interestingly enough, the car is now behaving perfectly fine. No error warning anymore, and the doors are unlocking normally when I touch the handle.

So I feel kinda stuck. I'm happy the car is back to normal, but I'm just waiting for it to act up again. The battery is over 4 years old at this point, the date on it is 7/17, so it is the original one. I see 2 options, replace the battery and see if that was the problem, or just keep driving it and see if it happens again, with the possibility it could strand me at some point if it is the battery going bad.

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I would just replace the battery if it's over 4 years old, just for that peace of mind. Wouldn't you rather change the battery in your driveway on your own term than getting stranded or worry about getting stranded if and when the battery does go bad in an inopportune time?

Slightly off topic. What's the production date on your car out of curiosity? I'm suspecting it's at least July 2017 or later since your battery is dated 7/17? Do you have the 6 or 7 speed transmission? I have a June 2017 production car and it's classified as a 2018 - I have the 7 speed, BTW.

Mine was also intermittent. It started with a message in the virtual cockpit when I started the car that “battery is low and will charge while driving” it got progressively worse.

A friend lent me a 12v socket based voltage meter and I got to the point where I could predict the problem with needing to use the key fob rather than the comfort access to open the door.. If the voltage varies when on throttle (12.x volts) and off throttle (14.x volts) then it was fine but as soon as the alternator went into permanent charge mode (14.x volts) whether on or off throttle the problem would occur after the next 1 or 2 starts.

Thanks for the information! I can use this as an early indicator sign for battery change and see if I can stretch the battery life on the car. I usually just change the battery on all of my cars when it reach 5 years regardless since most of them will just die without warning after that, at least in my experience. So, this information will at least give me some warning signs if I do decide to swap it out at a later date than anticipated.

[glintoz]

The voltage changes are to do with the smart charging alternator installed in almost every new car. I can also imagine you would see the alternator go into the permanent charge mode if you had drained the battery in some way. The above is what I was able to work out with my issue and it may occur periodically as part of normal ‘smart’ battery management so please use it as a potential cause/reason for an issue and not an absolute fact that the battery is failing.

But when the battery does start to go be ready for a whole pile of weird problems with error messages, comfort access, interior light switch/operation and sat nav location errors on start up to name a few. Basically some of the weirdest things I have ever had happen to a car.

Anyway good luck with it all but if it was me I would be dumping the battery and don’t forget to get the new one coded so the charging system knows that it was replaced.

[nanogreys3]

I would just replace the battery if it's over 4 years old, just for that peace of mind. Wouldn't you rather change the battery in your driveway on your own term than getting stranded or worry about getting stranded if and when the battery does go bad in an inopportune time?

Slightly off topic. What's the production date on your car out of curiosity? I'm suspecting it's at least July 2017 or later since your battery is dated 7/17? Do you have the 6 or 7 speed transmission? I have a June 2017 production car and it's classified as a 2018 - I have the 7 speed, BTW.




Thanks for the information! I can use this as an early indicator sign for battery change and see if I can stretch the battery life on the car. I usually just change the battery on all of my cars when it reach 5 years regardless since most of them will just die without warning after that, at least in my experience. So, this information will at least give me some warning signs if I do decide to swap it out at a later date than anticipated.

I would just replace the battery if it's over 4 years old, just for that peace of mind. Wouldn't you rather change the battery in your driveway on your own term than getting stranded or worry about getting stranded if and when the battery does go bad in an inopportune time?

Slightly off topic. What's the production date on your car out of curiosity? I'm suspecting it's at least July 2017 or later since your battery is dated 7/17? Do you have the 6 or 7 speed transmission? I have a June 2017 production car and it's classified as a 2018 - I have the 7 speed, BTW.

I think that's what I'll end up doing, just replacing the battery for peace of mind.

I'm not actually sure of the production date, how would I find that? I have the 6 speed transmission. That's interesting that yours is classified as a 2018 even though ours must have been produced at a similar time. Mine is a Progressiv, pretty bare bones model with no digital cockpit, not sure if that has anything to do with it.

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[nanogreys3]

The voltage changes are to do with the smart charging alternator installed in almost every new car. I can also imagine you would see the alternator go into the permanent charge mode if you had drained the battery in some way. The above is what I was able to work out with my issue and it may occur periodically as part of normal ‘smart’ battery management so please use it as a potential cause/reason for an issue and not an absolute fact that the battery is failing.

But when the battery does start to go be ready for a whole pile of weird problems with error messages, comfort access, interior light switch/operation and sat nav location errors on start up to name a few. Basically some of the weirdest things I have ever had happen to a car.

Anyway good luck with it all but if it was me I would be dumping the battery and don’t forget to get the new one coded so the charging system knows that it was replaced.

Thanks for all your help man. I think replacing the battery is probably the right call given its age, even if it isn't the problem, it's likely going to die soon anyways (although I hope it is the issue!). Needing to code for the battery gives me a good reason to finally get an OBD11 too!

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[XMetal]

I think that's what I'll end up doing, just replacing the battery for peace of mind.

I'm not actually sure of the production date, how would I find that? I have the 6 speed transmission. That's interesting that yours is classified as a 2018 even though ours must have been produced at a similar time. Mine is a Progressiv, pretty bare bones model with no digital cockpit, not sure if that has anything to do with it.

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Having a 6 speed DCT validates that your car is indeed a 2017 model. 2018 models get the 7 speed DCT. I believed the production date is printed on the VIN placard on your driver's side door. Mine has a 06/17 printed on it. Perhaps Canadian cars get a different crossover/changeover date than U.S. cars?